Turbo
Very few people actually know how a turbocharger works, so below is the best basic description I have ever read. Because building a forced induction set up will require a lot of patience, money and time, you must understand exactly how they work. So to do this, just click on the link below.
How a Turbo Charger works
Remember, turbochargers only work under load.
Different Types of Turbo Chargers
Ball Bearings-Some turbochargers use ball bearings instead of fluid bearings to support the turbine shaft. These bearings are made of very light, but strong material to handle the speeds and temperature of the turbo. They allow the turbine shaft to spin with less friction than the fluid bearings used in most turbochargers. They also allow a slightly smaller and lighter shaft to be used. The lighter the shaft is compared to it's size will help the blades accelerate more quickly, which helps to reduce turbo lag.
Ceramic Turbine Blades-Ceramic turbine blades are lighter than the steel blades used in most turbochargers. Again, this allows the turbine to spin up to speed faster, which reduces turbo lag. The down side is that a ceramic turbine is significantly more prone to shattering.
Twin Turbo
This type of set up uses two turbochargers instead of one. Some of these are often known as a sequential turbo set up. One turbo is smaller, which accelerates quickly in lower rpms, and the larger turbo will take over to produce boost at higher rpm's. Sequential set ups do not always use one very small turbo, and one very large turbo. Sometimes the only difference is one turbo is clipped, or they have different trim levels. Although not all twin turbo set ups are sequential. Some use two identical turbochargers just for the added boost.
Boost Lag
One of the largest downsides of having a turbocharger is boost lag. That means when you step on the gas, the turbo is not instantly creating power. The turbine must speed up to higher rpm's before it starts to create boost. One way to reduce this is to make sure your exhaust flows very well. You can also get properly sized piping.
Properly Sized Piping
Each turbocharger and intercooler use a certain amount of air, you should always try to set up a close ratio of each. One way you have to do this is to have piping that is properly sized. If your pipes are too large, you will have more boost lag because the turbo cannot build the pressure up as quickly. The smaller piping will reduce boost lag, and increase velocity. The problem with smaller piping is that it can choke the engine. You must research this and find a nice medium. The largest concern with the piping is the length. A one by one inch pipe will flow thousands of cfm, but if it's 12 inches long it will only flow a few hundred at most. For the intercooler piping, in general most people use piping that’s 25% larger than your compressor output. One of the largest limitations is the throttle body, make sure the throttle body can keep up with amount of air flowing into the engine.
Clipping the Turbo Charger
Clipping the blades on a turbo will allow air to flow through the blades easier, in turn it increases the breathing of the turbo. This means two things, the turbo will breathe into higher rpms, but it will have more boost lag.
Picking the right turbo
Picking the right turbo makes is probably the biggest difference in the way you want your turbocharger set up to work, and how it will actually work. The smaller turbochargers boost up quicker, since there is lass mass there and consumes less air. But, a smaller turbocharger will not make the mass gains in the higher rpm's like a larger turbocharger would. The smaller the turbo, the less boost it makes. The less boost it makes compared to it's potential, the less strain. You have to figure out the proper sized turbo for your car. Remember, sometimes a smaller turbo is not a good choice. The smaller the exhaust side is, the more backpressure there is, which causes more stress on the engine internals. Also, because of the added back pressure there is more heat on the motor. Take in to account how fast you would like to boost, how much power you want to have, if this will be a street set up or a race only car, and your budget. Make sure you consult with someone to this if you do not understand the different trims and turbos, and how they would work with your engine.
The following is a generic wish list for a basic NA to FI (turbo) install:
Collector pipe: pipe that merges front and rear exhaust manifolds and feeds into turbocharger
Turbocharger
Wastegate
Intercooler
Intercooler piping: from turbocharger to IC, from IC to VAF
Blow off valve or compressor bypass valve
Silicone couplers and clamps for intercooler piping
Down pipe: pipe expelling exhaust from turbocharger to cat
Oil lines: Feed line, -4AN; Drain line, at least 1/2”
Tapped oil pan: preferably have a ½” female fitting onto the pan
Oil drain flange/gasket: flange that bolts to turbocharger oil drain outlet
FMU: rising rate fuel pressure regulator used to increase fuel pressure according to boost levels
Spare fuel high-pressure hose/clamps: factory size used to connect FMU
Fuel pump: Preferably a 255lph Walbro in-tank pump. Less desirables are the Walbro 190lph and any in-line fuel pump
Vacuum lines, vacuum block/several T’s
O2 sensor bungs (if you replace the log-manifolds with header primaries)
Now here's a basic list of the tools required for a installation.
Piping in a variety of sizes, including elbows, U bends, and straight sections
Chop saw for cutting pipes
Welder for exhaust piping and flanges
Drill with large drill bits for drilling out waste gate, o2 sensor, and blow off valve flange holes
Couplers and clamps for IC piping, oil drain, and fuel lines
Standard and metric sockets, variety of wrench sizes, and standard wrenches
Large scale cutting tools for cutting through front wall and modifying front bumper. (Sawzall, etc)
Other miscellaneous automotive tools for removing and installing basic components
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