REVscene - Vancouver Automotive Forum

iceberger · 04-04-2009, 03:08 PM

I know that the 1JZ is a common and easy swap but I'm looking for a bit more potential and the low weight + reliability of the 1UZ is appealing.

Also, 1UZ's are pretty cheap, but I don't know if a 1UZ swap would work with an R134 (MT is my preference but whatever). Apparently, 2JZ swaps need a custom brake booster to clear the rear turbo. As for the prospect of turboing a 1UZ, I don't want to (too much cost) and looking at pics of 1UZs in MX83s, theres barely any room left anyways.

So if anyone has some info about what would be easier/cheaper to swap in, please share your info... I'm ready to go trial and error on it but I'd like to get the job done quick when I do decide which to go with.

edit: some things worth mentioning: the aim is for the car to be used as a daily driver long term, the swap would be to give it some power and reliability, and being a daily driver it would be good for the new engine not to be a rapist in terms of parts cost and availability. Also, aftermarket support is sort of important as I'll be looking to tweak it over time (for response over straight up power gains).

immorality · 04-04-2009, 04:10 PM

For a daily driver I'd go 1uz. The tranny you are thinking of is a R154 from a mk3 Supra Turbo. It is possible to make it work with a 1uz, but you will need a custom bellhousing/adapter.

You don't have to worry about the brake booster housing unless you are starting with a RHD car. I suspect you've been reading up from some aussie forums?

I don't think either swap will be cheap, easy or quick, but the JZ will have more tuning potential.

Post some pics of your Cressida!

iceberger · 04-04-2009, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by immorality

For a daily driver I'd go 1uz. The tranny you are thinking of is a R154 from a mk3 Supra Turbo. It is possible to make it work with a 1uz, but you will need a custom bellhousing/adapter.

You don't have to worry about the brake booster housing unless you are starting with a RHD car. I suspect you've been reading up from some aussie forums?

I don't think either swap will be cheap, easy or quick, but the JZ will have more tuning potential.

Post some pics of your Cressida!

No cressida... yet! They are damn cheap, I just need to deal with some ICBC shit. I have a nice 929 HD that I just got sprayed, looks pimp, but the damn thing has no tuning potential and I don't want to VIP it out (too much heat).

I would like to know how much work and $$$ it would take to get a 1UZ to around 350-400 NA hp... less or more than 8k? I'm betting more than that, but I heard it takes really kindly to ECU and I/E mods.

Also, would anyone know how much heavier the 2JZ is an the 1UZ? I'm betting a lot heavier, but some kind of # would be nice.

Another thing, I don't have time to do the build myself so if anyone knows a good shop for this sort of thing, and/or anyone that has done a project like this and knows what needs to be done in order to get it together and running, please share! Obviously a swap involving either engine into a mx83 won't be that simple but I know lots of 2JZ swaps have been done and some 1UZs (outside of Japan, mostly in Aus).

ANY help/info is more then appreciated guys..

immorality · 04-04-2009, 06:16 PM

Yes, they are cheap, but beware of the BHG if you need to drive it for a while before the swap.

If you start with a '97+ you get 300hp/310tq stock. I had the opportunity to drive a friend's 98 GS400 and was pretty pleased with the stock power level. I still think it could use a nice exhaust, more for the sound than the performance, but that's just me.

Have you signed up at toyotacressida.net? Once there look for a user 'Gseventythree', he's local and done several JZ swaps.

iceberger · 04-04-2009, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by immorality

Yes, they are cheap, but beware of the BHG if you need to drive it for a while before the swap.

If you start with a '97+ you get 300hp/310tq stock. I had the opportunity to drive a friend's 98 GS400 and was pretty pleased with the stock power level. I still think it could use a nice exhaust, more for the sound than the performance, but that's just me.

Have you signed up at toyotacressida.net? Once there look for a user 'Gseventythree', he's local and done several JZ swaps.

BHG? I won't be driving it at all before the swap, I'll keep my 9 rolling until the cressie would be finished and ready to go with a 1UZ or 2JZ.

I heard that earlier 1UZs are better to swap because of wiring issues and some other stuff I can't remember, for sure the VVT-i eqiupped ones would be too much of a headache, but more power out the box is never a bad thing.

immorality · 04-04-2009, 07:13 PM

Blown Head Gasket. It's a common problem on every 7M engine, whether it's a Cressida or Supra.

iceberger · 04-05-2009, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by immorality

Blown Head Gasket. It's a common problem on every 7M engine, whether it's a Cressida or Supra.

That is one HELL of a common problem to have!! So happy I have another car to drive.

immorality · 04-05-2009, 07:09 AM

Well, it all depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I bought mine knowing it was on the way out and fixed it up myself in a couple of days for about $300.

iceberger · 04-05-2009, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by immorality

Well, it all depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I bought mine knowing it was on the way out and fixed it up myself in a couple of days for about $300.

Thats the thing, not many garages to be had in the west end, and no spare time either. With the 9 alone I've paid for a ton of service time and I've only had it since december.

Jun_Y · 04-05-2009, 11:14 PM

well, if you're looking for a swap, its better to even think of a 1.5J engine. best of both worlds. If you're looking for somone to do it for cheap, I'd probably suggest going to places who've done it and price compare. My work has done alot of swaps into cars and know tricks with the 1J and 2J engines.

iceberger · 04-06-2009, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jun_Y

well, if you're looking for a swap, its better to even think of a 1.5J engine. best of both worlds. If you're looking for somone to do it for cheap, I'd probably suggest going to places who've done it and price compare. My work has done alot of swaps into cars and know tricks with the 1J and 2J engines.

I'm strongly leaning towards a 1uz swap because of reliability and torque though... Its my impression that the Js have an issue blowing headgaskets?

What I need is something super reliable, lots of response, and being good on gas + low in weight would be great too. Does a 1.5J fit the bill?

immorality · 04-06-2009, 09:13 PM

The JZ's dont have headgasket problems. That was isolated to the 7M engines.

The 1uz fits the reliable, responsive and low weight(for its size), none of these swaps will be good on gas. The 1.5JZ is nice because of the 2jz's bottom end and the 1jz's top end, but in the end you have to buy two engines.

I still vote 1uz for your requirements.

EuroTRASH · 04-06-2009, 10:40 PM

If you go 1UZ, I've got a flywheel for one, if you plan to convert it to stick. It's a Toyota V6 flywheel that's been modded. I'm not comfortable running a modified flywheel, but if that doesn't bother you, it will do the job.

Head over to lextreme.com, tons of info there.

To run a R154 behind my 1UZ, I've got a TTC Performance 2 piece adapter plate, which allows any JZ bellhousing to be used. I've got a A1Turbos billet steel flywheel that I picked up while I was on holiday in New Zealand.

The TTC adapter is roughly 700 USD from TTC (I got mine for $300-350, i forget)
The flyhwheel was about $400, and I didn't pay any shipping because I picked it up in person. I also had to get a 1JZ bellhousing for my R154, I got that for $300 used from someone on the Island.

There are cheaper ways tho, and the 1UZ has a wicked torque curve! It's worth it! If my car was done, I'd take you for a ride so you know what it would be like...but I haven't done done the swap yet.

woozzle · 04-07-2009, 12:25 AM

they have the manual conversion kit here
http://uza70.com/

iceberger · 04-07-2009, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by immorality

The JZ's dont have headgasket problems. That was isolated to the 7M engines.

The 1uz fits the reliable, responsive and low weight(for its size), none of these swaps will be good on gas. The 1.5JZ is nice because of the 2jz's bottom end and the 1jz's top end, but in the end you have to buy two engines.

I still vote 1uz for your requirements.

Oh good to know, but yeah, response is a big thing for me and torque is a great thing to have in a sedan. I do a TON of city driving so would much rather have n/a. This isn't really supposed to be a "go fast" type of car, more like a daily with some spice. Also it sounds awesome which don't hurt.

iceberger · 04-07-2009, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroTRASH

If you go 1UZ, I've got a flywheel for one, if you plan to convert it to stick. It's a Toyota V6 flywheel that's been modded. I'm not comfortable running a modified flywheel, but if that doesn't bother you, it will do the job.

Head over to lextreme.com, tons of info there.

To run a R154 behind my 1UZ, I've got a TTC Performance 2 piece adapter plate, which allows any JZ bellhousing to be used. I've got a A1Turbos billet steel flywheel that I picked up while I was on holiday in New Zealand.

The TTC adapter is roughly 700 USD from TTC (I got mine for $300-350, i forget)
The flyhwheel was about $400, and I didn't pay any shipping because I picked it up in person. I also had to get a 1JZ bellhousing for my R154, I got that for $300 used from someone on the Island.

There are cheaper ways tho, and the 1UZ has a wicked torque curve! It's worth it! If my car was done, I'd take you for a ride so you know what it would be like...but I haven't done done the swap yet.

Thanks a lot for the info!! I would like to run a R154 so this is really good stuff to know. I just don't feel comfortable with the idea of having that much torque in an AT even though people have done it a lot. I don't know if I want to run a modded flywheel like you said, because I really do want this to be ultra reliable, and thats some labour intensive stuff if it fails obviously.

Where are you from? I'd love to check out your project when its done. I'm still not 100% sold on which swap to do but the way things are I have to get all the money for everything together before I move on it so I have time 'til I'm committed to this. Although with the days that go by I hate my 9 more and more and I might just have to get a cress soon to have something else that doesn't bounce like a maniac (the 9s shocks are gone).

immorality · 04-07-2009, 05:07 PM

The A340 automatic will handle the torque no problem. Lexus has been using it behind the 1uz for many years now, but it would be no where near as much fun as a manual.

I think the R154 is really the way to go. You could use a W58, but I think that if you are going to be hard on it, and increasing the power over time then it won't last.

EuroTRASH · 04-07-2009, 07:12 PM

I'm in South Delta....so not far....
Right now I'm just parts collecting, just gotta pick a clutch and choose if I'm going with a push type or pull type clutch. It's going into my SC400....so I'm really just doing a trans swap, seen as the car is already V8 powered.

As for the flywheel, well...as far as modded flywheels go, it's not so bad. Basically, the mounting holes were over sized, so the previous holes are almost completely encompassed by the new holes. The bolts are early 3SGTE, and have a large shoulder to fit the oversized hole. I bought it from a group buy on lextreme.com. Other people are using it with success and no exploding.

Back when I was still going to use it, I was planning to build a massively overkill scatter shield out of steel, then wrap that in a kevlar scatter shield. When I bought it, I basically didn't have any other option besides spend nearly a grand for a flywheel with shipping from New Zealand. Including the cost of the steel for a scatter shield, it would still be hundreds cheaper than the New Zealand one. I only went with it because I was going to New Zealand anyways.

One disadvantage with using the bellhousing adapter like the one from UZA70 is that you need to use a hydraulic throwout bearing. Lots of swapped people are doing that, so again, not a huge deal. The advantage of the adapter I have, is that it's possibly to use all OE parts, cept the adapter and flywheel. Everything else is off the shelf....again, I was planning to use that style of adapter initially, until someone who was selling the TTC adapter for really cheap.

One thing you may encounter trouble with is gear shift position. The R came with a couple different setups, but the W came with even more, and they're more readily available.

Jun_Y · 04-08-2009, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceberger

Oh good to know, but yeah, response is a big thing for me and torque is a great thing to have in a sedan. I do a TON of city driving so would much rather have n/a. This isn't really supposed to be a "go fast" type of car, more like a daily with some spice. Also it sounds awesome which don't hurt.

i drive a sedan with a 1J in it and its pretty good on gas so i don't know where ppl get the idea that its bad on gas. I also use to own a cressida so i know what the gas mileage is like and its no different with the 1J.

and yes the only head gasket blowing problems are only with the 7M engines. 1J and 2J engines have metal head gaskets from factory so theres really no problems there. for the ease, its still easier to do the 1J swap or 2J swap as theres less things to modify and or make things work with it.

iceberger · 04-08-2009, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jun_Y

i drive a sedan with a 1J in it and its pretty good on gas so i don't know where ppl get the idea that its bad on gas. I also use to own a cressida so i know what the gas mileage is like and its no different with the 1J.

and yes the only head gasket blowing problems are only with the 7M engines. 1J and 2J engines have metal head gaskets from factory so theres really no problems there. for the ease, its still easier to do the 1J swap or 2J swap as theres less things to modify and or make things work with it.

Well, the headaches will be someone else`s in terms of negotiating around the problems that pop up. I have no time to do the work myself but shop hrs cost money obviously... at the same time, I want this to be my daily for a long time and I drive a hell of a lot. Reliability is really the no1 thing above anything else, second being response.

I`m definitely sold on using a R154 though, I want to have fun driving it and I`ve had enough of the AT in my 9.. I want to keep the 9 as a weekend cruiser so if I want to drive like a lard ass I can take that out.