Need everyone advice Please Ok guys heres the deal im planning on building my motor and boosting it to about 15 psi but dont know what turbo to use here is a list of what mods are being done to the motor will be a used on daily street and strip Base : JDM D15B Vtec ECU: Chrome Tuned P28 w/Xenocron chip Block: YCP 75.5 Vitara Pistons FJ Distributors Custom I beam rods ARP rod bolts ACL bearings Balanced crank Bisimoto 9.7 lbs aluminum flywheel Unorthodox racing crank pulley KMS block guard Head Bisimoto Level 2.4, D15B vtec Turbo cam Bisimoto Cam gear Bisimoto Pro spring and lightweight Titanium retainer kit Skunk2 high compression oversized valves ARP head stud kit ML metal head gasket Skunk2 intake manifold Billet Aluminum throttle AEM fuel rail injectors PORT and Polished head Hondata Intake gasket Cooling: Mishimoto Aluminum rad Mishimoto intercooler custom I-C piping 2.5 inchs should take about till end of next summer for me to get the rest of the parts already have half the parts just ordered my pistons and rods yesterday So what Turbo do you guys think i should use for this setup to get the best response i want everyones expert advice and why that turbo the more info the better http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7743/vicivics.png |
gt3071. and i know where one is for sale |
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not me, but a friend that is going to upgrading to a GT3582 |
15psi doesn't tell anyone much. What power level are you targeting? 15psi on a T25 isn't the same power level as 15psi from a tv8101 (not that you could spool it) |
sorry power goal 300 + whp do you know if the turbo is watercooled |
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first off, why a d15b block? sure its fun to be JDM and all, but the nothing of the D15 and D16 interchange in the bottom end and should something fail or you need something internally, you will be down for a while. Save yourself the headache and start with a Z6 at the bare min if you want to go vtec but if not, a stout A6 bottom end will get you the numbers you want. your bottom end parts list looks fine except the steel crank pulley and block guard. Your are gonna spend the money to build a bottom end and get a rotating assembly put together only to piss that money away by purchasing a steel crank pulley and wiping out your bearings and or oil pressure? There is a reason honda motors (after 92) came factory with harmonic balancer. Save yourself the agony and grief and money and get a bottom end put together with a balancer and not those stupid ass POS pullies. You will thank me later. Block guards are a no-no. They are a band-aid to the floating honda sleeve problem. If you want cooling system nightmares and constant over heating probs, be my guest but i dont know of a local motor that hasnt had issues with a bottom that had a block guard. Stock honda sleeves will take a shit kicking to 500whp (LS blocks) where as a D-series wont have issues if all you want is 300whp. We were hitting the 280whp mark with stock sleeves at our big june dyno day on a similar setup to yours but in a Z6 varient. Your head pieces for the most part seem fine. Im confused though. you are getting "Skunk2 high compression oversized valves?" So you are gonna spend the money to get a head built but then put in chinese offshore valves in it? Again save yourself the headache, send the head down to bisi, especially if you are already getting a bunch of shit from him anyway and get it done right the first time. Oh and for future reference, stay away from S2 stuff. nothing but headaches. valvetrain parts id look at ferrea or supertech valve train. reliable and at least you know its made in the states and made right. intake manifold go with a blox if you really want a s2. at least the blox fits in the engine bay half ass alright, way better than a S2, either that or go with a large plenum edelbrock victor X, the are a much nice unit and only a couple of bux more. oh and you dont need a fancy throttle body unless you like pissing away money. A H22 or even a B16 or B18c will do the job just nicely. 300whp is a measly goal and if thats all you want, you dont need to go balls out. stock Z6 motors on a solid tune can push well over 400whp easily. "Cooling: Mishimoto Aluminum rad Mishimoto intercooler custom I-C piping 2.5 inchs" that just sounds like you pulled a line out of fast and the furious. keep it simple rock star. A koyo or yonaka aluminum core rad will be just fine and a decent bar and plate front mount. If you feel the need to impress, a spearco cored intercooler or even a PWR and a fluidyne will suffice. take this as advice, not a dig. ive been doing this stuff for a while. edit: fuck chris harris and xenocron.com. he screwed the entire homemadeturbo crowd. we supported him when he bought the site and fucked us in the end for the almighty buck. Dont support that greddy money hungry fuck. that is all |
holy shit jas, I hope Castor appreciates that :) |
Wow, Jas! For a turbo, how about a GT2871, or a GT2876? Both should spool better on that small motor, and still have enough flow for 300HP. However, 15PSI goal is pretty low (suggesting a larger turbo). I know the head efficiency should be pretty good, but your motor displacement is also quite low. What's your working rev range, and what is the estimated VE in that range (guessing in the 90s)? With those numbers it's pretty easy to lay some plots across some compressor maps and see where you lie. Normally, the turbo Jas suggested is water cooled. |
i have a D16Z6 coming online with a holset HY35 turbo around the 3700rpm mark up to 7200rpm. the 3071 will come on hard earlier on seeing as how you are getting the FJR spec rods, you motor wont be 8.8:1 compression and more like 9.2-9.5:1 with the vitara's and those rods. as well the GT3071 is a ball bearing turbo opposed to a journal bearing turbo and also aids in the spool up characteristics of the turbo. my best guess is that the 3071 on your motor will come on around the 3200rpm mark and pull all the way to redline no prob. but also consider a hondata S300. for the longest time i was pro-crome and pro freeware but for the ease and reliability of the S300, you just cant beat it. its a couple bucks more, but if you are paying for a chipped ecu and tune, its only a couple bux more for a s300. edit: yes the garrett GT series turbos are oil and water cooled |
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i actually appreciate SD's advice and knowledge since when it comes to F/I i dont know as much as i want to know and should know thats why i hit the forums ask for advice then do my searching on the parts. Thanx SD for the info Just changed my list up couldnt change all off it since already have some parts Mishimoto rad and IC got those for Xmas from mom ACL bearings ARP studs ML head gasket Pistons and rods ECU chip Hondata intake gasket Have some more questions now lol For the harmonic balancer would the stock one work or what would you recommend cause i cant seem to find aftermarket for any d series motors And for porting and polishing is there anyone you would trust on the island and when i mean trust people that you would trust with your motor AND THANX AGAIN TO EVERYONE YOU TO SD |
use the factory damper. it will suffice for your build. there is gentleman i would use for porting and flowbenching locally, but as i said earlier, if you want to spend the money to buy bisi parts, man up and get the head and port work done by him. the man is king of the sohc engine. |
my shit box loves its blockgaurd! must be installed before machine work! and props on jas! havnt seen you post that much in a long time. |
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