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I liked it. It was meant to be an endurance bike. It was comfortable. But when I wanted to drop the hammer, no way. And this is comparing to a CAAD10 aluminum frame and shortly after, I tried a SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod. It is a night and day difference.
Would I buy a no-name carbon frame? Probably not. But if you just want to boot around, look cool, say you have a carbon frame, then go for it. In my opinion, there are better bikes to be had regardless of what it boasts, but I would just go with what you want and plan on doing and just ride the fuck out of the bike like nobody is watching.
Are carbon frames better than other frame materials? Well, you got to do your homework and try not to sip on the haterade, then make an informed decision. Aluminum frames have come a very long way. Bike weight is all subjective these days anyway, but I wouldn't want to ride a 40lb bike. Anything under 20lbs is good in my books and I don't think I could give enough of a shit if it was 12lbs with a Shimano Claris groupset.
I might buy a Leopard or build an open mold frame for crit racing next year.
everyone is going to point you in the direction of buying from an LBS, and buying a name brand because of the R&D, warranties etc.
Ride whatever you can afford bro. If this bike looks good to you, is within your budget, then go for it. I guarantee its not going to explode underneath you while you ride it lol.
Take this with a grain of salt, but I have friends on this thread and also riding partners that ride open mold frames and wheels (aka China carbon, knock offs, whatever you want to call it) that race the bikes in crits and bag the shit out of them with no issues. Worst I've seen is warped carbon bc of poor braking technique or a broken spoke.
There are a lot of proven open mold frames and wheels, you just have to do research. The Leopard is new, and they haven't been delivered yet so no real world reviews.
But if it's half as good as the current reviews are on GCN and other sites, it'll be a huge hit bc of price point.
Originally Posted by whitev70r
Does anyone have an opinion on the new SpeedX Leopard, $1399 (US). All carbon frame/fork, internal cabling, built in computer/gps, < 20 lbs, integrated lights, Shimano 105, those new brakes, carbon wheels ... looks like a lot of bike for the price!
Took the wheels off and gave the bike a thorough deep clean today - the first time since I have bought this bike, about 1000km now. I was astounded how filthy the chain and cassette truly were (ie I was willfully ignoring).
After cleaning it up I thought it was time for a photo with the new (used from Craigslist) wheels!
For fun, I bought a cheap kitchen scale to compare my stock wheels to these new Enves (because I'm a geek like that):
Fulcrum Racing 5.5 (Stock on Cervelo R3):
Front wheel + 23mm Diamante Pro tire: 1089g
Rear wheel + 23mm Diamante Pro tire + 11-25 Ultegra cassette: 1562g
Skewers: 126g Total weight: 2,777g
Enve 3.4 Clincher Wheelset with King R45 Hubs
Front wheel + 25mm Conti GP4000 tire: 970g
Rear wheel + 25mm Conti GP4000 tire + 11-28 Ultegra cassette: 1371g
Skewers: 65g Total weight: 2,406g
Savings (including a larger cassette, larger tires, and much deeper wheels): 371g
The bike is now 7.37kg including Ultegra pedals and the Arundel cages.
... Bike weight is all subjective these days anyway, but I wouldn't want to ride a 40lb bike. Anything under 20lbs is good in my books and I don't think I could give enough of a shit if it was 12lbs with a Shimano Claris groupset.
haha, I don't think there are too many bikes over 40lbs nowadays unless it's a fully loaded steel touring bike or a big heavy cruiser.
On another note, I put the Osymetrics through its paces over the past couple of days. Did some flat riding, did a climb up Seymour and some mixed terrain riding in between--all in all did about 250km on them.
Are there any marginal power/speed gains? Not really, I was a lot faster on every Strava segment of the Seymour climb compared to when I did it two weeks ago but that's arguable because I'm pushing a 38 for my small ring now as opposed to a 34 back then.
The biggest difference I can feel is in the way that you pedal. With round rings you have this push and pull motion at certain angles to achieve a full circular motion. With Osymetrics, I feel that it takes the guesswork out of pedalling and you no longer have to be cognizant of when and at which angle you have to pull, you just have to push. Hard to describe but I like the feel of them so far.
I've used both the MEC green one or the citrus degreaser tomatogunk posted. The MEC one is cheap but you have to use a bit of it depending on how dirty it is. The actually prefer the Home Depot Zep citrus cleaner since it's easily accessible and works great.
I find aerosols are pretty wasteful sometimes and are expensive. I've used some wd40 foaming chain degreaser marked specially for bikes. It foams on and doesn't drip as fast as the finishline stuff as I find that finishline stuff pretty horrible. I like it but it's pretty expensive. You can pick the wd40 stuff up from BSP.
I hear mixed reviews about simple green and how it'll corrode your chain if you leave it soaking too long.
The less environmentally friendly stuff is using gasoline, kerosene, or some paint thinner and soak. People use this stuff, but I'd imagine it'd be a bit dangerous.