REVscene - Vancouver Automotive Forum

tofu1413 · 05-14-2010, 09:39 PM

as title stated...

im wondering..

so vtec crosses over for a couple hundred rpms.. then the car lurched and engine light flashed.

i ease off, car drives normal.

is there something wrong with my vtec solenoid? or is my vtec solenoid screen plugged up..??

bcrdukes · 05-14-2010, 11:03 PM

First step would be to pull codes from your ECU. Is this a boosted DC2? (I'm assuming based on your sig.)

And this is a huge out-of-the-blue assumption, but if your car is boosted, has it been tuned? Sounds like there is knock and your ECU is saving your motor from destruction.

I may be wrong, however.

tofu1413 · 05-14-2010, 11:04 PM

actually its coming from my ITR..

my bad. engine light doesnt stay on... so is there actually a code..?

ivan4 · 05-14-2010, 11:35 PM

blinking engine light means misfire

!Aznboi128 · 05-14-2010, 11:50 PM

you can still pull codes if there is no light, franco did it for me.

bcrdukes · 05-15-2010, 12:08 AM

I think ivan4 is right. The symptom sounds like misfire. Try to pull codes anyway. Does this happen when you go apeshit on the throttle? I am assuming you are or at least under heavy load because for VTEC to activate, I believe it is triggered @ 5xxx RPM? (Sorry, I never owned a Honda.)

!Aznboi128 · 05-15-2010, 12:09 AM

his itr should be about 4k or so... i uno

tofu1413 · 05-15-2010, 09:14 AM

cross over is at 5800rpm.. problems hit at 6000rpm.

bah. i'll keep you guys posted once i figure out my lil ignition fiasco.

bcrdukes · 05-15-2010, 10:05 AM

1. Pull codes
2. Check your ignition (spark plugs/wires/timing/distributor etc.)
3. Check fuel

Errr...not sure what else. I have a feeling Phil@Rise may chime in. I'm not a professional. He is.

tofu1413 · 05-15-2010, 11:24 AM

turned out i was a litre low on oil... totally fml.

topped it up. is it common for these cars to consume oil like this even if the motor has been rebuilt..???

gonna go drive around and see how it goes.

mpr · 05-15-2010, 11:36 AM

depends how fast your litre got burned up.

I hardly seen an itr rebuilt or not that does not consume engine oil.

reaver64 · 05-15-2010, 12:24 PM

Having owned many honda's in my family in the past, most do burn oil after the 200k mark.. but i dunno man, when was the last time you changed your oil? reading what you did to rebuild the motor in your sale thread i would have expected a large portion of the oil problems to go away.. I think you said you only put 3k or so on the rebuild, and if you burned through a liter of oil in that period or time, there MAY be a problem. Hopefully everything's alright though

tofu1413 · 05-15-2010, 12:33 PM

changed my oil about a thousand k's ago...

hmm.. unless there is this oil leak that i dont know of.. . time to crawl underneath the car and take a look!

and oh yea.. came back from a drive. the vtakkkkk works fine

reaver64 · 05-15-2010, 12:54 PM

LOL.. 1k ago, better get under the car and find that leak

might also wanna check if your blowing smoke out of your exhaust

tofu1413 · 05-15-2010, 03:00 PM

hmm no smoke from exhaust..

unless if i vtec like mad, then the rear of the car becomes a bit black. not surprised though, as the car seems to run a bit rich...

bcrdukes · 05-15-2010, 03:28 PM

What kind of oil are you running? Dino or synthetic? Which weight of oil is this and for it to burn a litre of oil? Something is not cool. Check for leaks.

You said your motor was rebuilt. Who rebuilt it and what was rebuilt? These are some pretty important questions you should have answers to.

tofu1413 · 05-15-2010, 03:32 PM

- running pennzoil syn 5w30
- Engine was built by JG engines in california - aftermarket pistons, rods, balanced crank, bigger bore etc.
- Headwork was done by Alec's machine shop in vancouver - rebuilt with oem parts sans the valve springs
- MF assembled + did the swap.

i actually might end up using 5w40 or 5w50 for summer.. not that i speed a lot, but i tend to keep the car revving a bit high. would 15w50 be a good choice for summer..?

Si · 05-15-2010, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tofu1413

- running pennzoil syn 5w30
- Engine was built by JG engines in california - aftermarket pistons, rods, balanced crank, bigger bore etc.
- Headwork was done by Alec's machine shop in vancouver - rebuilt with oem parts sans the valve springs
- MF assembled + did the swap.

i actually might end up using 5w40 or 5w50 for summer.. not that i speed a lot, but i tend to keep the car revving a bit high. would 15w50 be a good choice for summer..?

Alec's shop is great.

bcrdukes · 05-15-2010, 10:15 PM

I'm currently running 5W30 in my BMW E30. So far, no leaks and prior to that, I ran 10W30 and it leaked like a bitch. My motor is an inline-6 with 209,xxx KM so an engine with that mileage could use a different oil. I ran on 5W30 all winter without any issues.

tofu1413 · 05-16-2010, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

I'm currently running 5W30 in my BMW E30. So far, no leaks and prior to that, I ran 10W30 and it leaked like a bitch. My motor is an inline-6 with 209,xxx KM so an engine with that mileage could use a different oil. I ran on 5W30 all winter without any issues.

hmm kinda weird your car is leaking the thicker oil..

the mis-fire sympton disappeared.. hmmm........ going to do my oil change soon.

but thanks for replies you guys

XtC-604 · 05-17-2010, 12:11 AM

Hondas all burn oil while in VTEC, it even says so in my S2000 manual lololo. "due to the high revving nature of the engine, oil consumption is normal, check oil level every other fill up"

TheSalesman · 05-17-2010, 01:12 AM

There are about 10 things wrong that you did when you rebuilt the motor but i'll name a few of the important ones.

1. You are using synthetic oil on a brand new rebuilt motor?
2. It sounds like the car was not tuned from the moment it was starting up which made it run too rich and washed out your rings so they are really worn out now.
3. Are you using the stock ecu on a built motor?
4. The motor was not broken in properly
5. MF assembled a built motor?

I built my h22 and had it tuned asap. I run that thing at the track all the time for the past 3 years or so. It does not burn ANY oil. JG in cali assembled your block? Alecs did some headwork? What did they assemble? What did MF assemble? Even the person that assembles a motor can make a huge difference in how a motor turns out. What kind of cams are you running?

tofu1413 · 05-17-2010, 10:32 AM

1: used dino oil for first two oil changes
2: i think you are right on that one. havent installed air/fuel controller yet. its an apexi VAFC btw.
3: yes on stock ecu
4: followed procedures stated by JG
5: MF changed the oil pump + slapped on the head and put the motor into the car. motor wasnt in pieces when i got it.

uh oh. think im screwed.

currently running stock ITR cams.

TheSalesman · 05-17-2010, 12:10 PM

^ I think you can still save this motor but it will cost a lot. You need some new rings + something better then a vafc. What compression are you running?

tofu1413 · 05-17-2010, 02:00 PM

11.2:1 or so

driven 3k kms so far and changed oil 4 times... could it really be that bad?!