I did this about a year ago now, b18a1 into my EF hatch. I love it! It's great even with the stock LS tranny, but that might just match my driving style.
Since the motor is from a '92, you'll be back-dating the engine wiring to OBD-0, like you said. OBD-1 started in 1992. Your Si harness will work, though I believe the plugs on the motor might be wrong. I'm pretty sure they are different, but I don't have experience there, maybe someone else can chime in. Just be careful with your harness when working with it, it's old and if you mess up some of the wiring you might end up having to troubleshoot wiring when you go to start it up.
And like Welfare said, you'll need the PR4 ECU and distributor from the OBD-0 B18A1 and the 1-wire 02 sensor from your current D16. And the b-series axles and intermediate shaft.
Hopefully you got this with the motor, but you'll also need the rear 't-bracket' for the rear engine mount.
When I did this, I did some reading and saw that you may be able to avoid hammering your frame rail by using a d-series alternator... I think this might be possible by getting an alternator belt of the right length and with the correct number of ribs on it for the d-series alt. I didn't have the right belt at that point myself and was looking forward to smacking the frame rail anyways, so i used the b-series alternator. If you use the b alternator, you have to dent the rail. No big deal.
I used innovative mounts - the fitment and positioning with them is excellent. I also went with the pre-made shift linkage, because as a package with the mounts, I got a good price and didn't want to second-guess my own or someone else's idea of modified linkage. You don't need the front mount if you are getting urethane mounts (not till you add more torque to the motor anyways), and i found i had to cut off the mount bracket on the front crossmember anyways (to get enough clearance for the manifold).
Hoses: I think I bought new ones, stock replacements for the b18a1. For the rad hose, i think I used a short cut piece of the stock EF hose on the radiator end as a shim to slip into the hose from the b18a1 to the motor. That works great, I just had to tighten the sucker right down very tight.
And maintenance stuff: of course it's a good idea to do the timing belt and water pump on the b18 while it's still sitting out in the open. One thing i didn't do was the rear main seal, but it wasn't leaking at the time.. I'm hoping it hangs on for awhile yet.
I was baffled by the vacuum hoses since I'm pretty much a noob, but got it right with a bit of research.
I found these articles really useful. I found that there is a lot more info on b16 and b18 VTEC swaps than there is the good ol' a1 or LS swap, but much of it can be used in this swap as well.
http://www.drivendaily.org/garage/b18a1-swap/ http://www.drivendaily.org/garage/cr...acuum-diagram/
(he posted this again AFTER I spent forever trying to figure it out)
http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=28152 http://www.crxresource.org/modules.p...rticle&sid=134
Good luck and enjoy!
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