simple question about alarm install and door locks

[grey ghost]

I am installing a compustar system using a FT-6300A control unit on a 97 240SX, and I have a couple of questions...

First of all, I'm just trying to wrap my head around this.. The car has power door locks from the factory. When I wire up the alarm, do I just splice the alarm wires into the factory door lock wires? If I do that, and I use the door lock switch to activate the door locks, what prevents the voltage in the system from back feeding into the alarm control module? I assume there is a diode or something that protects it? I know this is probably the simplest thing for an experienced alarm installer, but I'm just trying to figure it out.

Anyway, my other main question is this. The alarm module has selectable jumpers, and I'm not sure what to do with them. In the installation instructions, connector 1 has a green/white wire which says "This is a dual purpose wire that features selectable functionality thru the trunk/light jumper on the control module. It is either a positive parking light output or positive trunk output. This wire carries a 10A fuse." Then it says "default - park light positive output. The proper wire will test 12V when the parking light is in the on position." So what do I do here? Just connect it to the parking light circuit?

The other question I have is regarding the door lock polarity jumper. So, if I understand it right, I leave it on negative if the factory door lock module (on my car, the smart entrance control unit) is actually providing ground in order for the lock to activate. If the smart entrance control unit actually provides 12V to activate the lock, I switch the polarity jumper to +, correct?

I feel kind of stupid, like these questions are almost common knowledge, but thanks for any help anyone can offer.

[installerz]

Can I suggest having it professionally installed? The questions you are asking lead me to believe that your car may be safer if someone with many years of vehicle security tips & tricks tackle this job for you. I'm not trying to insult you or hurt your feelings in any way. I admire your initiative. I have seen too many scary things under dashes over the years to let this slide without making this request.

[orgasm_donor]

Keith is right. Alarms are technologically advanced these days to keep up with the increased complexity of vehicles' wiring systems. Also, these alarm systems do require some feature programming with a special Compustar programming device only available at select professional dealers and shops. Not everybody has one!

Let us or one of the other sponsors help you out if you need it. We're always a phone call away!

[grey ghost]

Well guys, thanks for the advice, and I have considered having the alarm installed by someone. However, I too have seen many scary things under the dashes of various vehicles. I've removed alarms from a number of different vehicles to get them back into original condition, and I'd say about 9 times out of 10, most of the connections were made with those scotch lock things. I DO NOT want that shit on my car. I was planning to take the extra time to actually properly solder every connection and use heat shrink tubing to insulate it. So, maybe you can recommend someone that will do it properly?

[orgasm_donor]

Well, I can only speak for SoundsGood (my shop!) and tell you that we have banned T-taps, scotch locks, butt connectors and other such time-saving (and terrible!) implements from ALL of our alarm installations. We only use solder, shrink tube and/or 3M electrical tape for our installs. Yeah, it takes longer but we would rather have that than a scotch lock come apart while you're driving!

[catalin]

Bad scotch locks..