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And you have personally contributed a lot just now.
You are about to purchase something that will put you and other peoples lives in danger. If you can't even use common sense or make good judgement yourself then you shouldn't be riding a bike. Getting ripped off on a bike is the least of your worries.
how easy is it to install HIDs on your bike?? is it as simple as a car? the only thing id be worried about is where to to put the ballast any feed back would be much appreciated
i got my motorcycle specific HIDs from bayside and the ballast is the size of a deck of cards, maybe even a little thinner. i just taped it to the inside of my fairings. as far as installation goes, it was pretty easy - all plug and play. had to get my girlfriend to do most of the work though because she has small hands that can reach into different places
Wiring wise, it's the same as a car. Most of the work is making it neat, tucking the wires, mounting the ballast. I used thick double sided tape and mounted it tightly between a gap Posted via RS Mobile
Look for small holes drilled through screws (holes big enough to run wire through) It's an indicator that the bike was used as a race bike, meaning heavy wear on the engine. There are a couple of great write ups on bcsportbikes about what to look for, highly recommend you check it out.
1. Check fluid levels--Oil, brake fluid, coolant levels, etc. Also if you can look at the oil and its condition. A bike with fluid levels that haven't been maintained, especially the oil could mean trouble.
2. Tires- Tires are often neglected, but can run a few hundred bucks right off the bat. Make sure they are not brittle or cracked, no nails, plugs, or flat spots. Check the tread life, you can go through tires quick so be prepared to replace them if the tread is low.
3. Chain/belt drive--Rusty chains will need to be replaced, see how much slack is in the chain. Check for kinks in the chain and if possible put it on a rear stand and spin the back tire to see how the chain looks. Properly lubed chains should be free of rust and move smoothly.
4. Frame--Look for damage in the spots on the frame that are most likely to be scuffed up in a crash or drop. Check out the sub-frame on sportsbike as this can be bent(get behind the bike and make sure the rear end lines up over the rear tire) Check the stator cover, and the clutch cover for touch up paint(touch up paint is a sure sign the bike has been down one way or another). Forks, check for leaks or cracked seals, this could be a couple hundred bucks easy.
5. Fairings--Make sure they line up and match up. Slightly different colors could mean replacements from a crash, misaligned fairings could mean the same. Beware of "custom" or new paint jobs, most of the bikes I have seen repainted were repainted because they were down and the fairings were bondoed instead of being replaced. A warning with street figher/naked bikes that weren't originally a naked bike. Most bikes that are streetfightered have been wrecked and instead of replacing parts, the bike was chopped down to a fighter, just know that going to look at a fighter.
6. Handle bars--Check the ends of the bars for scraps, another sign the bike has been down. Turn them both ways as far as possible, there should be some clearance on the gas tank. Check to make sure all levers move freely and the throttle is smooth both ways.
7. Pegs--look over the pegs, see if they are scrapped, another way to tell if the bike has hit the ground.( Also with aftermarket levers, another red flag that they might have been replaced due to a crash).
8. Electronics--Check to see that all lights and blinkers work, check the condition of the battery, and all wires leading to it. A dead or weak battery is another 90 bucks or more to have to replace.
9. Forks- Check to see that the forks are true and straight. Check the fork seals for leaks, any oil coming out of them is a sign they will need to be replaced and it isn't cheap, also if the fork oil leaks down to the brakes a rebuild on them is necessary as well.
10. On the bike--If riding, and you are comfortable, let go of the bars and see if the bike rides straight at 20-30 mph, it should, also check for any excessive shaking. Check brake condition, and acceleration. Also if possible hear the bike start up from a cold start. You can hear a lot of weird noises on startup that won't be there once the bike is warm. Let the bike run to operating temperature and make sure it doesn't overheat and that the radiator fan(if applicable) turns on.
11. ASK ALOT OF QUESTIONS-- The best thing to do when buying something used is to ask every question you can think of. I.E. How long have you owned the bike? What problems are you aware of? When was the last oil change? Valve adjustment? Does it pass inspection? Has it ever been down, or dropped? Asking these questions will help you get a feel for the buyer and a lot of times people are 100% honest about things like that, but you won't know until you ask.