You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Generally - starting off with good tires, brake fluid, and pads will get you through your first couple events. Learn the car and how it reacts and understand it's weaknesses. Look for solutions to the weaknesses. Research, test, and go from there.
Don't make the bed and then hate where the bed is. Realizing you've done things wrong sucks.
Also, it's hard to say xx is a good track car, car xy is better here, xz is better there. Buy a car that you'll get satisfaction from regardless of the lap time. Your lap times will gradually come down with seat time.
If you want to have loads of fun on the track I don't really recommend the DC's as the FWD can be a downer at times however they have proven to be very capable on the track.
Miata is chea, light, simple and RWD. All the things you want in a little weekend track car.
E36 is a great car on track and there are loads of parts.
miata is a GREAT car to learn how to DRIVE FAST. almost every miata driver i know are ridiculously great drivers.. (except one who's car keeps overheating.. i know you're out there )
once you learn to drive fast though, stock form wont suffice anymore unless you're willing to put more money into it.. keep that in mind.
I say start with a B swapped EG or Miata - both around 5-6k but the EG will more than likely have a few mods, whereas the Miata will come mostly stock.
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
Euro Spec E36 M3.
Nice set of coil-overs
Brakes and tires.
Or maybe a K24 Miata with nice coil-overs and 275 R-comp tires.
I've done the fwd ITR bit. You have all the power and grip to keep up with 997 Turbo's in the corners, but come corner exit they start to pull on you because they have 400 extra ponies.
__________________ Originally posted by Iceman_19 you should have tried to touch his penis. that really throws them off. Originally posted by The7even SumAznGuy > Billboa Originally posted by 1990TSI SumAznGuy> Internet > tinytrix
Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu1413
and icing on the cake, lady driving a newer chrysler 200 infront of me... jumped out of her car, dropped her pants, did an immediate squat and did probably the longest public relief ever...... steam and all.
Miata or if I really felt like it I want to swap a high revving 4AG into a Mk2 Golf GTI shell. Redundancy yes, but you can only do so much with the VW 16v before boost, and a VR6 seems a bit nose heavy for such a light body.
Euro Spec E36 M3.
Nice set of coil-overs
Brakes and tires.
You'll spend too much time and money keeping that thing running.
If that engine ever blows up you'll spend more money to fix it than you would to build an entirely new E36 with a 5.0 and T5 with all of the necessary chassis reinforcements
5.0 + T5, all the money you save can go towards tires
If you blow up a 5.0 you can go to Surrey and trade a 6 pack of Kokanee and a handshake for a used motor
i would be the first to say - choose a car you really like and work from that.
For starters, this. If you aren't at least interested in the car nothing else matters too much.
As far as the car itself, I'd only spend about half your budget on the car to leave room for initial fixes and any future upgrades once you find out what the car is lacking for your driving style. I'd suggest getting something fairly common so that parts are easy to source on short notice and so that you have widespread aftermarket support. Lastly I'd suggest getting something that doesn't have a tonne of power in stock trim but has the potential for power adders down the road, you're better off driving a slow car fast than a fast car slow from a learning standpoint.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
As a guy who has spent a lot of money in the pursuit of a love of driving fast, take it from me, a little planning can save you a lot of aggravation and expense.
The first thing is you need to truly identify what your goals are. It's all fine to say you want to just do some laps at a casual track day but many who start off that way decide they are interested in being competitive. However, many of them took a car they liked and modified to the track and then realized that they were totally screwed because they had started with the wrong platform, or had modifications that made it impossible to be competitive (classing). Spend a LOT of time thinking this through, because it makes a HUGE difference.
Then the second question is buy or build. For most people, the answer should be buy. Racecars are no different than streetcars in that parts are worth a tiny fraction of replacement cost when it's time to sell the car. However, this is an even bigger deal in racecars because modifications are often a much bigger part of the overall cost of the car. But for some people, and I fall in this category, building is the only option as a pre-done car doesn't exist in the way you want it. Side note... many guys say "well I can't afford to drop $xxx on a car right now so I'll just buy the car and mod it as I go." That's all fine and well but you are literally pissing money away just to have it a little faster. Get a loan and buy the built car, you'll save a bundle.
The third thing isn't really a question but rather a general comment. Most people, myself included, based their car choice on performance numbers - power, weight, etc. This doesn't really the paint the whole picture though. I took a highly competitive E36 with the stock motor that was quick and reliable and spent a small fortune turning it into a much faster car that was finicky, hard to drive, less competitive, and required a lot more maintenance and trust me - I regret it. The car was much more fun when it was slower.
Competition is key and having a car that you can drive without worrying about is important too. There are lots of guys out at autocross in turbo miatas that run slower lap times and are way less competitive than a well built NA one. In the early days before the V8, my E36 lapped Mission road course in the 1:17 - 1:18 range with only 190rwhp. Many cars with twice the power were lapping 5 seconds slower than this - a well sorted package goes a long way to achieving results.
Good luck
Mark
__________________ I'm old now - boring street cars and sweet race cars.
Love this tips and suggestions in here.. I've taken my current (and previous) cars to the track, but still have a lot to figure out. I'm only planning this next spring, so I do have a bit of time to think about exactly what I want.
Currently sounds like an e36 or miata would be the best bet. I'm ok with buying instead of building, but I guess finding the right car to buy would be pretty tough, especially since, as mentioned, the cars get much harder to maintain and enjoy as they get further from stock.
I was also thinking of a DC2R, as mentioned by some people, but I'm not sure about the FWD platform.. but everything I hear says the DC2R will handle just as well as RWD cars, if not better (if the RWD car isn't balanced). Would love some more opinions on that..
Thanks for all the chat in here, keep it coming!
__________________
I searched for truth, and all I found was You
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
1995 Mazda Miata !! SUPERCHARGED !!
Add $1000-1500 for some 15x8 wheels and 225 street tires.
$2000 upgrade to proper shortened coil-overs shocks.
$1K for roll bar and racing seat
__________________ Originally posted by Iceman_19 you should have tried to touch his penis. that really throws them off. Originally posted by The7even SumAznGuy > Billboa Originally posted by 1990TSI SumAznGuy> Internet > tinytrix
Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu1413
and icing on the cake, lady driving a newer chrysler 200 infront of me... jumped out of her car, dropped her pants, did an immediate squat and did probably the longest public relief ever...... steam and all.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
)
