95 Integra LS, Hard to Shift Manual Transmission

[jaretron]

I have a 95 LS, shifting gears (all gears) became hard the other day and after doing a bunch of research here is what I found:

Symptoms:
- hard to shift gearing up or down into any gear, it will grind if I force it into gear
- seems to shift a little easier when car is cold
- I can shift with no problem when car is stopped
- it feels like the clutch is not disengaging enough


Things I have checked or replaced:
- shift linkage bushings have been replaced
- tranny was drained, checked with a magnet for shavings (nothing), and refilled with genuine Honda MTF
- the clutch fluid is full and has never gone down
- MC has no visible leaks
- clutch slave has no visible leaks
- to test the clutch hydraulic system I started the car while parked, put the clutch in and sat for 15 mins with the the car in first...car did not creep forward
- clutch pedal feels normal, no softness or sinking, never has, grabs in the right place
- the clutch is supposed to be new, it still grabs great and I can do burnouts if I want

Possible problems:
- throw out bearing, I've had these go before and they are noisy, I'm getting no noise (car is stock with OEM exhaust), correct me on this if you think I'm wrong about the noise
- clutch pressure plate
- clutch disc spring
- clutch shifter fork

I'm looking for any insight as to what you guys think the problem could be, I don't have time right now to pull the tranny but if that is what it is going to take... I just wanted a second opinion before I do so.

Thanks.

[fliptuner]

How old is the clutch fluid? It deteriorates over time, absorbs moisture and "compresses" instead of transferring motion directly from the pedal to the fork.

Have you tried adjusting the pedal a bit so the engagement point is higher?

Usually if it's a syncro problem it'll be worse when it's cold.

[320icar]

Slave cylinder?

[Puck Luck]

does it grind going into any gear while driving or when sitting at idle?

When you're checking m/cyl for leak, are you looking inside the car, above the clutch pedal for leak?
The only adjsutment for the clutch is the m/cyl push rod, but these are set at factory and don't need to be touched. If you have to adjust it, then you're just compensating for something else thats wrong.
When checking the slave, peel the dust boot out of the way and see if any fluid is behind it.
these clutches are usually softer pedal feel when new, tend to stiffen up as they wear. OEM parts anyway.

[jaretron]

Originally Posted by Puck Luck

does it grind going into any gear while driving or when sitting at idle?

When you're checking m/cyl for leak, are you looking inside the car, above the clutch pedal for leak?
The only adjsutment for the clutch is the m/cyl push rod, but these are set at factory and don't need to be touched. If you have to adjust it, then you're just compensating for something else thats wrong.
When checking the slave, peel the dust boot out of the way and see if any fluid is behind it.
these clutches are usually softer pedal feel when new, tend to stiffen up as they wear. OEM parts anyway.

At idle it shifts fine, I will check above the clutch pedal for a leak.

Thanks.

[sonick]

Check the cap on the MC if there's any cracks or is not sealing properly.

I had hard shifting issues when hot on my Protege turned out there was a small crack on the cap of the MC. Replacing it fixed it completely.

[Seansm10]

Check master for sure. Bushings and synchros next maybe??