Conventional Oils

[MuranoGO-15]

Straight up, if you do oil changes every 3,000km or 3 months intervals religiously, is it fair to say that using a good quality oil filter and regular oil is the smart way to go? Like say you use a dealership oem filter and like Castrol GTX 5w30 oil.

I see the benefits of using synthetic oils and synthetic oil filters if you drive longer periods of time, or perhaps the manufacturer calls for synthetic from the factory.

There can't be any justification to use synthetic oil or a synthetic oil filter if you going to change oil every 3000k or 3months is there?

[Jmac]

Today's conventional oils will go way further than 3000 km. Hell, oil 40 years ago went further than that.

[Gucci Mane]

conventional oil changes every 5000km are just fine. 3k is a little early honestly. also it depends the type of engine your car has. just use whatever is recommended by the manufacturer. some engines need to run synthetic because of very close tolerances etc.

if your vehicle is a murano, i wouldn't bother with synthetic.

[dared3vil0]

Unless you plan on doing something out of normal operating conditions, stick to factory recommended weight, oil change interval, type (conventional, synthetic blend, full synthetic) and filter.

[Mr.Money]

3k is just sad for normal oil....5000 sounds about right.
synthetic oil and a good filter...i allow up to 8000km...canadian tire has good deals once & awhile.

[Timpo]

Just get synthetics.

Mobile 1
Oil change intervals: 25,000km or 1 year, whichever comes first
Mobil 1? EP 5W-30 | Car Engine Oils & Products | Mobil? Canada

Amsoil
Oil change intervals: 25,000 miles(40,000km) or 1 year, whichever comes first
AMSOIL 25,000 Mile Oil Change

[StanleyR]

Originally Posted by Pidish

conventional oil changes every 5000km are just fine. 3k is a little early honestly. also it depends the type of engine your car has. just use whatever is recommended by the manufacturer. some engines need to run synthetic because of very close tolerances etc.

Most engines with turbo/supercharging need syn due to higher heat (resists thermal breakdown, coking etc). Most thinner oils are usually all syn anyway.

I used to run M1 5w30 in my 97 Escort doing 20,000 km OCI's yearly. The engine never leaked or burnt a drop of oil right up to the time I sold it

[Traum]

Bear in mind that synthetic oil doesn't just give you a longer OCI as there are other benefits as well. The base stock itself is more refined, and a direct consequence of that is your engine will rev smoother, be more willing to do so, and it will idle better as well.

Personally, I'd stock up when there is a huge sale going on, and just keep going back to my stash. The cheapest I remember seeing recently was Crappy Tire's house brand (made by Shell) at ~$18 a 5L jug. Not that Castrol GTX is a bad oil (I used to use it in my VW 1.8T), but I'd think the Crappy Tire syn oil is a better buy.

[SumAznGuy]

There are 3 types of oils.
You have your basic dino oil.
Then you have your heavily refined dino oil, which people call "synthetic"
And then you have your true European made synthetic oils.
99% Mobil 1 oils you buy at crappy tire fall under the "synthetic" oils.
Crappy "synthetic" Mobil 1 is made in the US. The good stuff is made in Europe.

True European Synthetic oil will cost around $10-13 per qt.

True Synthetic oils will give you a wider range. Dino oils are usually 5w30 or 10w30 but true Synthetics can stretch it out to 5w40.
European Castrol is listed at 0w30 but tests have shown they are thicker than a 30 weight.

[thumper]

for all your oil questions go here:

Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm

+1 on the advice about mobil1. only go with the euro mixes because the north american stuff we get here is crap.