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some things to look for are that it focuses correctly, no huge dings or dents, no/limited scratches on the lens. take a few pictures and see if there are any visible dust spots (if your lcd allows that, and assuming your sensor is clean). I also would check "through" the lens (without the lens/rear cap) to make sure there isn't anything funky in the lens. if it passes all that, you're gold! |
^+DOF preview to check the blades! |
http://www.focustestchart.com/chart.html print one out and test for focus accuracy. not sure what body you're using but maybe you can compensate for it if it's off by a little is focus something that needs to be calibrated from time to time (i.e. 5 years) and will deteriorate over time? just curious for used lens buyers that factor in focus calibration into their costs |
Anyone have any thoughts on the Sigma 8-16mm? Any good? How does it compare to the 10-20? Is that any good also? |
got to play with one in lens and shutter while buying my 6mdh on tuesday.. and i must say i was intrigued. I've never played with anything wider than 10, and the FOV at 8mm was very cool. I would love to rent one and play with it outside to really know how i feel about it. Aside from that- the shots i took indoor where pretty sharp even magnified, and the build quality is very good. My only gripe is that the front element is pretty exposed, even with the hood. And i'm not sure if all HSM lenses are like this, but it felt a bit grindy? The guy said it was ok but it didn't feel as smooth as USM that's for sure. |
The Sigma 8-16 is sharper than the Canon 10-22. Long term reliability is something I can't be certain of though. |
it's been "declared" that instead of buying each other stupid useless expensive gifts we're going to buy our own gift for ourselves. i'm looking at long IS lenses on my other monitor as i type! 100-400? maybe. |
looked at a Sigma 50-500. good grief it's huge. anybody try this beast? edit: ok, looks like Canon 100-400. it's cheaper than the Sigma Bigma(OS,APO,EX,DG), go figure. |
I've got one of the original non OS bigmas. I handhold it 99% of the time. Its damn heavy if you have to hold it still for 10+ minutes, but I'm better handholding than I am with a tripod. I have been wanting to try out a 100-400 lately, but only because I want mode 2 IS for panning shots. 50% of my shots are probably pans, and it would be nice to have slower shutter speeds with the IS. You can check out my second flickr site here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/19426172@N08/ All of those were shot with the bigma and a 30D/5D/1D2 |
the weight is not an issue. on average, i'm stronger than 2.6 revscene members. :D anyways, i think i've decided. hope the buyer for my other lens won't flake on me tomorrow. |
not sure if its been discussed before, but im not sure if i should keep my 24-105 f4 or sell it for a 24-70 f2.8. the f4 has IS which is nice to hand since i have shaky hands, but then the f2.8 lets in twice as much light while being able to produce a more blured background. decisions decisions decisions... |
I would keep the 24-105 for now and wait until the new (rumoured) 24-70 f2.8 IS comes out possibly next year. The 24-70 is sharper than the 24-105 (although both are not as good as Nikon's equivalent lenses), but heavier. The problem with the IS in the 24-105 is that at the wider focal lengths, the IS is actually detrimental to image quality - the corners get soft as the image circle isn't very wide at wide angles. This is why you don't see any wide angle lenses with IS/VR - the Nikon 16-36 VR being the notable exception. If you just use the lens as a walk around, the 24-105 is probably better suited for you. If you need a lens for professional use, the 24-70 is the better choice. |
Anyone know where I can get a good deal for a Tokina 11-16 F2.8 for Canon? Bccamera's sold out. |
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http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...ghlight=tokina |
haven't bought the long zoom yet, but picked up a Sigma 50mm 1.4. only fired a couple test shots so far, but will take a few keepers in the next couple days. http://members.shaw.ca/northvanmike/skeleton/50mm.jpg |
Currently I shoot with a D80 and only have 50mm 1.8. I've been eying the Tokina 11-16 2.8 a long time, as I want to shoot landscape/architecture, but haven't been able to pull the trigger yet. However, the Tamron 17-50 2.8 came across my mind as this lens would be more versatile for a good purpose lens since I enjoy shooting portraits as well and the benefit of a zoom that the 50mm 1.8 doesn't offer. It would cover a good range since I'm using a crop. So, now I'm kind of stuck in a dilemma between the Tokina vs. Tamron. Would the Tamron be able to take nice sharp landscape/architecture photo's? |
well i mean the 11-16 is one of the best wide-angles for the crop, and even FF's @ 16mm (other than the 14-24 for nikon's i guess). you should search up photozone.de 's reviews and see how much sharpness the tamron has @ 17mm and at apertures you see yourself using. i've owned it before and corner sharpness is not one of its forte's (if that's important to you). the tamron is okay at what it does and it's a good price/performance ratio. and since you mentioned portraits i'd say ur 50mm f/1.8 is sharper than the tamron @ f/2.8. the tamron's just something you would sell in the long run imo, but not the tokina if you keep shooting on crop bodies (or even FF @ 16mm). |
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I'd recommend going down to Glazers to get the Tokina, granted they are hard to come by. I was able to get mine for about 600. The Tamron I picked up and Dunne & Rundle for about 500. |
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picked up a 35mm f1.8 for my nikon. loving it. |
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http://www.bccamera.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4982 |
^ sucks how the tokina 11-16 won't AF with lower end cameras like D40,D3100,D5000 |
looking for a place that rents out a tokina 11-16 (Canon) before I drop cash for one. Senna does Beau stock them for rent? If not does anyone know where else I could rent one locally? |
you can try leo's on granville if beau doesn't have em? |
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