alright i am getting board of the power i have now. what is listed for basic tune is done except for the boost controller and fmic. i think its time to go z32 maf-garrett28-bigger injectors-waldro 225pump-and a tune.

What do you thing guys
any pointers so i don't go the wrong direction
if you know where i can get parts that would be great!

You already got bored of the power produced from the mods you got? Damn.
Just buy a bigger and faster car.

lol yess.. sadly my complete greddy catback, down pipe , elbo and hks intake don't satisfy me... i drive it normally on a regular basis but when i see a open road with no other cars i like to gun it . 60 to 180 in a blink of an eye, but i want more push back! not like i race or anything but i like the feel.. i love my silvia so i gotta stick with it

700cc injectors, z32 maf, walbro, nistune, gt3071r, 20psi will net you roughly 380-440 at the motor depending on tune. you're going to need a new clutch, aftermarket pistons, and probably gti-r rods with 19mm bearings.

now we talking. im sure my moter can take the beat. with that power id do my intake manifold to and guess think about cams. how about the block? Do you know what the best piston choice would be? also whats the difference between the oem and gti-r rods.

gti-r rods are beefier, can handle upwards of 550hp, use a wider 19mm bearing. and are cheap kuz they're used. pistons will be anything really, je, arias, hks, etc etc. i wouldn't bother with the intake manifold and cams right away. start with the rods, pistons, turbo, maf, injectors, tune, and clutch. this will already break the bank. rods 150 us dollars (used), 600$ pistons, 150$ maf, 600$ injectors, clutch 700$, nistune 500$, tuning 500-1000$, turbo 1600$, misc parts 2-500$, and labor x watever that could be.

I don't know the specifics of the sr20 but I'm researching the t25 for my miata.
14 psi is really the most you'd want to run, at that point it's right on the edge of its' efficiency map. The most it'll flow is about 340-360cfm and at that point it'll heat up the air quite a bit. The biggest bang for buck if your manifolds are compatible is to move up to a t28. It'll flow about the same at 10-11 psi giving you more overhead.

If stock is 7psi and that gives you 180whp then bumping up to 14 should give you an extra 25% power less whatever extra inefficiencies that incurs. That'll be things like heat from compression and restriction of flow, intake or exhaust side. So 225hp - [10-15] gives you about 210hp. That's out of my ass though.
(Stock effective pressure is 7+14(atmospheric), compared to 14+14 which is where the 25% comes from.)

There's a lot of factors that go into that though. If I remember right the a/r of your turbo is 0.48. This is good for spool but also cuts down your top end power quite a bit. A compatible compressor housing with a higher a/r of say 0.64 or 0.80 will help you get that kick in the ass feeling of top end power.

It depends on both how much work you want to do and how much money you have to spend though. There's already plenty of good ideas in this thread.

GT3071R is a SUPER inefficient design(i'm assuming since you don't have manifold or wastegate on there is the T2 flanged unit) I bought one on the premise that I had a manifold already and did not want to have to spend more on the related parts to move up to a T3+ flanged 3071/3076R. I was very disappointed with the results.

It was very laggy and the top end was nowhere near what I was lead to believe.

Beyond the GT28RS, the other T2 flanged big turbos start to show their limits. They start to get limited by the inlet size and the internal wastegates.

Comparing the "almighty" GT2871R with the .86 a/r, when compared to T3 flanged 3071R and even the GReddy T67 kit, they will spool about the same but absolutely sing at the top end. They basically outperform the 2871R at virtually every point in the powerband.

I'm not saying the 2871R is a bad turbo, it's not. If you are looking for more power than the 28RS can provide and you don't want to shell out big dough for custom downpipe, manifold, charge piping, etc. it's an excellent alternative. But 3071R in T2 flange with internal wg is garbage. It was the worst $1300 I ever spent.

Anyways, back on topic:

Staying within your budget, I highly recommend::
-GT28RS
-Nismo or SARD 555cc injectors (don't cheap out and buy Deastchwerks)
-Z32 MAF or even RB20/25 MAF
-M-R manifold
-FMIC(if you don't have one yet)

This is more than enough for MOST people. I've sold about 20 of these(off the top of my head). Wicked spool, hard hitting top end. It also gives you lee-way to make even more power by adding:
-cams
-intake manifold

To eek out even more power.

the 3071r with 2.75 inlet, and .86 a/r is the turbo to have on a gti-r 54c sr20det.

the gti-r is t2 flanged, with individual throttle bodies, solid lifters, bigger cams, 19mm bearings, and 12mm head studs. it also has a better flowing manifold than a 53J sr20det. at 1.2bar on a gti-r motor wiht 750cc injectors, z32, retune, on stock block will put down around 340-360whp on a fwd, and about 320 wheel on an awd drivetrain.

perhaps the 2871r is better suited for the 53J, but the 54c goes best with the 3071r. but the above post'er is probably right, go with the 2871r. the gti-r has some differences that makes it accept the 3071r.

Fuck, buy a welder, learn to weld, weld shit, save money.

Edit: I say this specifically so you can weld your own external wastegate and extra exhaust routing. That'll help your spool on any size turbo, internal wastegates are only good because they're cheap.

Just get cams.
256/264 for best moderate tune.
Get them in, see if you like it.
THEN go big.

Cams are often overlooked, and they'll prove to be more useful after every mod.

Just get cams?

Are you on drugs?

Cams should be fine. He doesn't need to go all out in one shot.

Cams offer good gains on turbo cars, anything that allows for more flow is good really though the bottom end might suffer a bit. I don't see any problem with this.

Cams are usually the last on peoples' lists' though because of the cost of labor involved. The OP doesn't sound like he's planning to do his own work so the most cost-effective thing to do would be a turbo replacement that fits the same manifolds if possible and a tune if the ECU allows and he's not going for a standalone.

Get some estimates either way and go with whatever is cheaper.

I was going to say this as well. Anyway, maybe evaluate what you want to use the car for. Eventually, if you make enough hp you'll want to replace the head gasket.You may want to look into rocker arm stoppers as well. As far as Turbos maybe you would like the GT2871r.

Really I don't think a SAFC is the way you will want to go. I thought it was a good idea I bought one and then I found out it is not the best bet for what I am looking to do. It is probably better to get your ecu tuned.

SpuGen made his post come off as if getting only cams was the best idea when clearly, as you stated, it is the last thing on the list.

yah sounds like everyone is got their own idea of power gain here. and im not looking to break my wallet but obv it will add up. safc is a good tune like some say but getting an ecu flash i think its a waste .. first thing it will cost almost the ammount of a aftermarket ecu where i can tune myself. either way if i get my ecu flash and i were to choose a differnt route then its out on me. gt2871 is my way but im looking for it is a kick in the ass

what i'd reccommend is to get a tune whether it be a standalone or piggyback, and a boost controller.

do you have a smic or fmic? even with a slightly bigger turbo say, T28 you could get away with your current setup.


just remember more power = more money and more stress on engine components.

alll this has come to mind. i got a fmic, well even with a t28 i think i would have trouble since im putting larger injectors and the z32 maf, but im not to suree exackly.

You can get an MBC at Home Depot, only thing is you have to put it together. The instructions are in German and the translators are Dutch. The Dutch don't speak German.

But whatever, does the Z32 MAF read the same as the stock one? Some of the 1.6 miata guys get RX-7 AFMs to remove the stock flow restriction but since it's bigger it under-reads. In my case this is okay because the stock ECU is pretty rich in open loop and can compensate in closed loop. Any idea about yours?

Edit: If you have a boost gauge you can follow these instructions.

Getting cams should be one of the first things you do. Power is easily gained and it's hella easy in an SR. I re-re'd my SR when it was sitting and it's pretty simple. Annoying, but straight forward as long as you have the torque specs and a torque wrench.

The main reason why people put cams as one of the last things to do is because they usually upgrade the top/bottom end as one of the last things, and it's a "might as well" thing while it's all apart.

Get 256/264's for now. enjoy the power, then build slowly.
Then when you decide to upgrade the head internals, you can go big with 264/272's
$500 and 2 hours of inconvienience makes easy power on the stock T25. Even more gains on a T28.

There's guys running a HKS GT2530 just like mine pushing 260 to the wheels. With mild cams, 300 easily. Thats a 40whp gain from cams. Mind you, the GT2530 is only a bit bigger than the stocker. 550's are needed of course.

He needs an AFC or better to utilize the Z32 MAF, otherwise it's useless.

i don't know why you would bother with an safc when a nistune is only a couple hundred more. the safc will put u into the wrong part of all the timing maps. but hey if u wanna be cheap in the wrong area then be my guest

Has anyone megasquirted a 240sx? It's pretty cheap even for a pre-assembled unit and has enough features to go standalone in most applications. Just throwing that out there since it's what I want to do, but there's a lot of support in the miata community.

Megasuart is cheap, but installation and setting up will take money and time.

Also it dosen't support SR20 crank angle postion sensor set up, so you'll have to make

your own crank or cam angle pick up setup. On the last SR with MS we did, we had to use ford crank angle

sensor and wheel, and welded on to SR crank pulley with custom sensor mount.

It works better for KA24.

We've done quite a few MS, but don't really recommend it to customer with not much

knowlege about tuning and wiring.

Basically, it's good unit if you can handle everything yourself.

To get a shop to do it for you?,

buy AEM EMS or Powe FC, you'll save money that way and will be more reliable.