quick electronics question
 

wired led pods to to a 12v power source ( cigarette lighter, using the stock 10a fuse )

implemented a rocker switch/interrupter so i can turn the led pods on and off.
http://i14.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/47/74/90fb_1.JPG

rocker switch stopped working, fuse was not blown.
the switch says its rated 16a, so is it because the 10a fuse in the power source caused it to short out or something?
*16 amps @ 125-250 VAC, ¾ H.P. 125-250 VAC

to remedy this, should i put in a higher ampere fuse like 15a or 20a?


edit: when the switch didn't work, the fuse did not blow, and if i bypassed the switch, the leds still worked

Does the lighter still work? What happens if you bypass the switch?

A fuse is made to blow if more than the rated current flows through it - it cannot "cause" the switch to fail.

the lighter still works, leds work if switch is bypassed.

well if it isn't an electrical failure, must've been my failure when i applied a bit too much crazy glue and some of it went into the crevices and into the switch lol. i hope it's as simple as leaking crazy glue into the switch and not a more complicated electronical issue..

Well, if the LEDs work when you bypass the switch, then it's obvious the switch is fux0r3d. Replace it.

do you have a multimeter? test the switch.

if you dont have a multi meter, you can test it with LEDs :D

in other words, soundy's right, switch no worky

....wait, crazy glue on the switch? Er...why?

AC switches used in DC applications are usually derated, but I can't see your LED pods drawing that much current.

What's the LED current draw?

Was the switch working, and then stopped working, or did you just install it and found it wasn't working? That looks to be a Single Pole Double Throw - you could have the wires on the wrong terminals if this is the case...

crazy glued the switch to mount it instead of cutting out a hole and fitting the switch in.

the switch was working for the first few times i used it, THEN it stopped working.

when it stopped working and took a look at the terminals of the switch, the wires looked like they " burned through " itself until they became disconnected. From there on, the switch stopped working.

DC12v

Doubt it... seeing as the circuit itself has a 10A fuse. Any current high enough to kill the switch would have blown the fuse long before that.

That's voltage, not current.

The LED units SHOULD have a marking on them somewhere listing the current they use (in Amps, or "A").

I can't seen it being anywhere near 10A for the two of them though...

leds in A..haha...more like mA