REVscene Automotive Forum - Question about first oil change

REVscene Automotive Forum (https://www.revscene.net/forums/)

- Vancouver Auto Chat (https://www.revscene.net/forums/vancouver-auto-chat_173/)

- - Question about first oil change (https://www.revscene.net/forums/585720-question-about-first-oil-change.html)

I'd trust RS before I'd trust a Honda appointment girl :)

not when they're hot and have their legs open

and anyway when they said don't do the change till a later date, that means that they're not getting any money at that moment...so i'm not sure how that service advisor reply has anything to do with that...
oh yah..right now you use a computer right? if you have a problem with the computer (ie blue screen of death), do you just ignore it and say, that's just bs...nothing wrong with my pc...so you can't really say that what the car's computer is telling you is all bs...they don't spend billions in r&d (look at F1) for nothing...we might as well be stuck in the days of old....

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliptuner (Post 6546037)

It has nothing to do with "clean assembly" or the engine running with no oil. It's assumed that the new parts are extremely clean and pre-lubed during assembly and the motor is never fired with no oil. New parts require seating and to be broken in to each other - this leaves metal circulating in the oil. Of course the filter catches most of it but what about the rest? I've seen firsthand, many oil analysis results on new motors that show a considerable amount more metal particulates when compared to motors with over 20K km/+100hrs.

"The fact is there are a ton metal particles floating around in there from parts seating and the oil filter has probably captured as much as I'd feel comfortable with."

Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but judging by what you posted earlier, you seem to imply that the engine oil is saturated with metal bits. Yes, friction between two metal surfaces causes wear, which results in SMALL amounts of metal being introduced in the oil. Cylinder walls are coated to further reduce friction. Combine that with proper lubrication, and you will get nowhere near "a ton [of] metal particles floating around."

It seems like you give car manufacturers very little credit on how they design engines and lubrication systems. Depending on manufacturers, lubrication system on engines are very complex and well designed.

I don't refute the fact that the lubrication system is adequate and efficient. My point is that during the break in period, there is much more metal in the oil than after 10-20k and as such, it would be wise to change the oil more frequently.

I'm not implying that there are huge bits of metal shavings floating around. I'm talking tiny, even microscopic bits. But every little bit makes a difference when it comes to longevity.

All things the same, an engine with more frequent oil changes will always last longer.

i did my first oil change at 5k paid by dealership. then i've been doing my own servicing for free ever since. every 5k, gonna go 4k now since oil and filter is free for me. and its gonna hit 4k soon, and oil life still at 60% i think.

and the oil life meter in honda vehicles work by the ecu calculating driving environment/habits.. hard/easy, long/short trips, hwy/city..

agreed with racing spirit, not only does the oil filter traps all the metal shaving, all new engines now a days are broken in on an engine dyno, we as the first owner are doing the very last step of that broken in. Alot of people that has/had rebuilt their engine in their car would know that, for the first 5 minutes that the engine has run. The engine usually run very rough and would most likely to stall a couple times

My car has 202k, and i do my oil about 5-8k depending on how hard i drive.
its been 6k since my last change, and its still amber/brown. it rarely goes black.

with todays advances in oil and additives, the molecules are smaller and more uniform. the intervals can be longer and the protection is just as good.

you are basically all retarded.
listen to the dealer, change when the light comes on, break-in oil in your accord is a non-detergent 5-20 with an extra additive of molybendum which aids in the proper break-in of roatating assemblies

dont believe me? look at what pro engine builders recomend to break in a motor with. non-detergent with extra friction modifiers

if they were trying to screw you over, it wouldnt be on a fucking oil change, most shops break-even on an oil change, and lose money on the oil change packages

Quote:

Originally Posted by //RacingSpirit>> (Post 6546003)

Parts are clean when they are used to assemble an engine. Engines do not get fired up with no oil in them. Any "metal particles" if any, during the first firing cycle, will be caught in the oil filter. Once oil is cycled through the engine, it will provide enough lubrication until your next oil change (to be determined by a sensor for accuracy, or mileage/time).

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliptuner (Post 6546037)

lol. Usually factory motors are 'broken-in' already, they just tell you to ease up on the motor.

When you do rebuild a motor, you need to run the car for about 10-50km, then change the oil maybe a couple of times. You do have the 'assembly' lube in there mixed with the oil and other parts breaking in. My reply might be unclear.

TO OP, check if hte oil is black, if not just wait till it says 20%. The first service is usually for free, so if it is black, just change the oil/filter but do not reset the light so that your first service at the dealership is still free.