Dude, are you on drugs?

If such a spray existed I'd spray my entire car with it and put Krown out of business.

^


:haha::haha::haha::haha:


WD-40???

it says on the bottle rust prevention?

:haha::haha::haha:

If I could, I would dip the entire body of my car in Por15.

hahahahhaa it's a conspiracy...they're not inventing such a substance to keep ppl buying more and more rims and other parts...i blame it on the new skytrain in richmond.

Since my car is 7 years old, is a DD and my rims have no visible damage (besides some curbing :D) just proves that salt damage isn't really a big deal (at least for Honda's). If the paint starts flaking in a few years my car will already be 10 years old and be relegated to beater status, actually it already is LOL.

Err no.. wheel is not some fairy sissy material.. it is aluminum alloy.. if it is properly primed and painted, there will be no spider webbing underneath the paint. If you have these problems, either your finisher sucks or they have some real bad QA.

If you polish your wheels yourself make sure you take it to a shop to clearcoat... not just wax etc.

We live in a wet climate, there will be electrolytic reaction with our wheels no matter what, however if your wheels are stock finished from factory, you shouldn't have to worry. Most problems happens when people decide to chrome etc etc aftermarket, and the problem is some shop cut corners to make a profit.

can someone confirm this statement? the last time i was at panther many years back, so i'm wondering if things have changed... when i asked about this, they advised me not to clearcoat over polished aluminum because the clearcoat will lift over time because they cannot even lightly scuff up the surface for the finish to adhere to. my only option was to do a diamond cut finish and then clear over it.

what about clear anodizing?

this thread is not about factory wheels + salt like what you're talking about, but aftermarket wheels + salt (in my case, painted; in some others' cases, chrome).

I tend to agree that factory wheels that are alloy tend to be safe in winter-time, but are you also saying with aftermarket painted wheels, salt is not a problem too?

also, any integra type r owners that have the factory white wheels here? Wondering how these wheels last in the winter, because thse are stock so I'm assuming type r owners don't change them in the winter.

The highlighted comment proves all your other comments invalid.

Polished wheels should never be clear-coated. As said above, the clear coat has nothing to adhere to and eventually flakes. Any little chip in the clear dulls the polished surface before and is difficult at best to polish out and touch-up.

All cars painted from the factory should never rust, since all parts are painted and no metal is exposed - factory paint shouldn't have any imperfections allowing moisture/air underneath to rust :rolleyes: according to your comments.

We all know that's not true, cars eventually rust, wheels get damaged from salt.

I'll confirm its wrong. Don't clear coat unless you don't plan on keeping the rims long, it will chip, dull the polish, and eventually flake.

I looked into anodizing and it was an expensive alternative, will still chip, and cannot be repaired easily.

i used mine for snow tires. i had them for 3 winters and they were a bit dull, mostly because i had to use agressive cleaners to get the cooked on brake dust off of them... finally i had them powdercoated gunmetal and never cleaned them again :lol

Car rust/oxidation these days (especially since you have the latest AMG car, as per "your mom damaged your wheel thread") have to start with kinetic damage to the surface in the first place, then electrolytic reaction. Primers are applied to bare metal (it absorbs oxygen and moisture like crazy, that's why people shouldn't just drive cars with primers on), paint adheres to primer. the thickness of the paint provides material for people to buff/ shines. If you have all these layers, no oxygen will get to the metal to cause rust.

For spider patterns and flaking to appear there have to be failure of adhesion of the paint, where O2 can get in underneath the paint. If you talk to any bodyshop person, they will tell you it is a problem with the application or selection of the right material to use. Honestly QA for aftermarket application of paint is not the greatest, that's where you see most of the problems. eg a bit of hand oil can ruin adhesion. You can't tell when the wheel is done, but the problem is always down the road. Not to mention we don't have a proper chromer in lowermainland for a very long time, so you throw in shipment and handling in the mix, it is never good.

As for OP, if you powdercoat your wheels, the paint is very thick and tough, since it require high temp to bake. It will protect your wheels in the winter, provided that you blasted the original surface with a media cleaner eg silicon oxide and have powdercoat applied properly.

To polish aluminum alloy, you are removing the oxidation layer to make it shiny, or your wheels are magical too? It will make it more reactive to electrolytic reaction. Since alloys are never a even matrix, that's why it pits and salt. It is a choice, between you want shiny you risk damage and eventual oxidation, or you clearcoat it for more dull appearance but longevity.

I'm going to fail you again, especially since I'm an east coast person and all cars have some form of rust on them.

Many cars are not only primered and painted, they are also acid dipped to galvanize the metal against rusting - and yet cars still rust. Why? Cause paint chips and eventually bare metal is exposed.

Duh.

Err you still need a kinetic source to cause the chip in the first place. There is no galvanizing in your precious "mother have to pay" polished wheels!

Not to mention you need a difference is metal to cause electrolytic reaction.

In your theory, cars like Delorean (stainless) will rust?

With modern cars with HSS and UHSS, most car manufacturers actually switch to polymers as base protective coat instead of galvanization because it is tougher (better adhesion) and more environmental friendly.

Hmmm cars drive on roads, roads have rocks on them, ... are you really this ignorant?

Aluminum alloy wheels don't rust.

No they don't rust, but they oxidize.. are you that ignorant on science?

The basic point I am making is read your specs.

All finishing no matter it is car paint, aircraft paint or even gear finishing. The manufacturer has a specification list of the finishing.

It lists for the the coating what is the recommended thickness to be applied. With the recommended spec,s they also lists the impact resistance, flexibility (brittleness), chip resistance and salt spray test. You want winter proof, pick the paint / specifications does the job. Most shops who would do your shop should be able to tell you.

eg I just prototyped a inconel header for my M70 project, I went to Zirotec http://www.zircotec.com/page/motorsport/13 and they provide me with the material specs of the finishing. With that I can estimate the cooling / distance to parts which might be susceptible to heat.

The problem occurs is a shop would only carry one type of finishing or paint brand and try to see the finishing as master of all trades.. but in reality it is not.

You keep stressing about spiderwebbing, also guess what? It can also cause by the flexing of the wheels, especially when you are using low profile tires. Again adhesion and finishing matters.

u fools are just failing each other over and over again lol!

actually they ran out of fail


5 fail per day i believe

:haha: