Removing broken stud
 

Acquired a 2nd hand turbo with a broken stud in the exhaust housing. Obviously will need to get the stud drilled out.

Anyone recommend a good machine shop in Richmond? What's the going price for drilling out a stud? Would like to get an idea so I know if I'm being overcharged or not.

Thanks.

Assuming shop hour is about $80 - 100 hour .. $100 or so is fair... Assuming new helicoil is inserted etc.

maybe try some heat.
heat the stud red hot. let it cool. the stud will have no place to go and be forced to contract slightly when it cools. this may be enough to remove it.
or try heating around the stud and applying slight pressure while doing so. it should free up.
either way, i would definitely try heat first. it's like magic on seized parts
that is, assuming that there is enough of the stud left to get a good bit the vice grips

Thanks for the advise.

I have applied heat via a heat gun and propare torch but the stud would still not budge. The stud appears to be bent so I'm guess the grooves are "seized".

Drilling out seems to be the only option left.

did you get it good and red hot? i dunno if a propane torch will get it hot enough.
heat, when applied properly, can remove virtually any nut/bolt

a propane torch won't get it red hot, or even close to it.

turn up the heat with some oxy acetylene, it'll take out the stud. it's a lot easier to try that then to drill.

I had something similar with my old car, wish I had posted this situation as I had no clue on what to do with it.

It's a bi!@# of a problem to deal with.


I just junked it, the car that is.

We're in richmond and can pull the broken stud. It shouldnt take any more then an hour to do. If at all possible stear away from helicoils for your exhaust housing

Best way is to tig weld material on to put a nut on it. The tig welding gets is red hot and the nut give syou something to grab with. You can also quench it if its being a bitch to shrink the stud. Done properly will take 5 minutes. I do this everyday at my job. PM me if you want.

if heat fails, you have to drill it out, and use an "easy out" bolt extractor.

I have never had the tig welding method fail. The threads may need to be heli-coiled if it is really really seized, but its still easier than drilling and using an ez-out. I would estimate I have done it 4-500 times. I do it anywhere from 1 to 10 times a day on housings and manifolds as part of my job.

The key is making sure to keep the tig torch over the broken stud until it is red hot and allow the heat to penetrate through the stud. Not too hot or you will melt the stud into the base casting. Use a 1/16" tungsten with a very sharp point. Use mig filler wire to build up the puddle. Another key part is building up the puddle as wide as possible on the stud to make it strong or your nut will just snap off.

I used to drill bolts out and use easy outs but after someone showed me the welding method I'm never going back.