Battery condition?
 

My battery died on my so i went to Canadian Tire to get it charged.

They told me the battery was good at 637cranks (specs say it should be 650 cranks).

So i go home put it in, everything works for a day or 2.

Then it dies on me again. I do make some short trips but its not more than what i have been doing before, and probably less now cuz im "battery-aware".
(using the battery for about 1.5 years)

Question:
Is it possible that the battery de-charges by itself? Even though its at 637 cranks, is there other things that might make the battery defective?

Yes, your charging system/alternator might be dead or there is something draining when the car is off.

Also check to see if your alternator belt is tight.

is it possible that the battery is still defective? just by itself
or there must to be a secondary cause such as alternator / power drain

get a volt meter and see how much voltage is at the battery when the car is running. 13.6-14.4 volts is what you should see
Posted via RS Mobile

Try cleaning the terminals with a wire brush.

terminals are clean, voltmeter is reading 13+ to14ish.

so, 637 cranks, 13.5 + volts, with this in mind, could it still be a batterys fault?

By "my battery died" do you mean:

- the car wouldn't start, just heard multiple clicks
- started slower than usual
- got nothing when you turned the key

Did the lights still work?
Have you checked the voltage before you started the car in the morning? What's it read?

- battery might not be holding a charge
- parasitic draw
- bad wiring to the starter
- something else....

i had battery issues with my bike for weeks! i had the battery tested with friends, at a battery shop, and even the dealership. the battery was supposedly "good" from all these tests. even after a full charge, a start, stop, then start up again, would be difficult (whether it was ridden for long periods or from just a stand still).

i also opened up my stator to check the coils weren't burnt and it was fine.

in the end, i spent $100 on a new battery cause it was pissing me off and never had a problem since. for whatever reason, my old battery just seemed to lose its charge rapidly.

borrow somebody's battery and see if that helps?

^ that was the answer i was looking for.

tests indicating that the battery was "good" but after a day or 2, it still doesnt start up.
Eventhough the car trys to turn but dies right away, Everything else works though headlights, music, etc.


I can buy a battery for 60-100$ at Canadian tire that will give me 3 year free replacement.
or
150$ ish at infiniti. 1 year free replacement, pro-rated after that.
Problem is not sure if the problem is the battery.
Inifniti is gonne charge me 60$? or some bullshit amount if i want a diagnostic check.

Canadian tire test tells me the battery is in good standing,
but infiniti OEM batteries are known to suck.

I'm at a dilemma.
Should I buy the 70-100$ Canadian tire battery and if it works i just saved my self a diagnostics fee, if it doesnt work then i spent 70-100$ and i might have to spend another 60$ to get it checked at infniti? if the new battery didnt fix the problem, then isnt it likely to be a warranty problem, which wont be charged right?

what do u guys think?

Simple, take the battery out, take it to the parts department, they will replace it for you. You only have to pay, if you want them to diagnose the car for you. One potential issue is since the volume of battery sales is much lower at Infiniti dealership, if it is other things that drains your battery and kills it (loose belt, alternator, parasite drain, bad diode etc), they will charge you extra for a new battery. At Canadian Tire or my favourite, Walmart.. they really don't care.

Whether it is warranty or not, it depends on what is on the car and what is the issue, if the car is bone stock, then you have a good chance. But since it is electrical, it covers a whole lot of things, if you have aftermarket items like alarms, bluetooth, beam cannons, fog lights etc etc.. they can easily invalidate the warranty.

Why do you say battery cost $70-100 at crappy tire? i mean you look up the battery size you currently have, then look it up on their website.. no need to pussy foot around. If you don't know your battery size, you should take the car into the dealership or one of Revscene sponsors for them to diagnose for you.

AVR test at cdn tire $30. checks for battery and alternator condition and charge state

Ive had the car for 19month so i have to pay 25% of what the battery costs. and its around 100$

If it is a loose belt, alternator, parasite drain, bad diode, shouldnt everything be covered under warranty?

its a 2008 g35x, the only mod i did is LEDs like a year ago or more. Ive had the car for 1.5 years. LEDs i can switch back to OEM. and its unlikely that they can drain a whole battery?

because Canadian Tire carry more than 1 size 35 batteries that range in price.

And i know alot of people say Canadian tire = cambodian, crappy tire etc but they have the best warranty for batterys. 3 YEARS FREE replacement. Even costco cant offer 3 years free replacement.


After doing some more research I have found a possible solution.
Any Infiniti mechanics here?

Its possible that my car is using a
Old style Vent Control Valve P/N 14935-AM60B
and a TSB has been made to replace with a newer model.
Although it is not said on the TSB, some people on 6MT/G37 forums mentioned that the VCV causes some powerdrainage, and when they had gotten this TSB, their battery problem was fixed.

Someone else mentioned that the g35 uses a alternator that sometimes does not charge until the car has been driven over a certain distance. (to save gas or something)

It doesn't have to drain the whole battery, if the battery is discharged to a point that it doesn't have enough amps for the starter to crank, it won't start. Hence sometimes just taking a battery to test can be misleading, because they usually only measure the how much amps it can take. The problem is if the battery discharge quickly.. it doesn't matter if it can hold 637Amps like you had said. eg it discharges say 2Amps every minute (when there is no amps).. then chances are when you get home the battery won't work.

Yes it should, however again electrical system is such a general system. However I think you should be okay, since most dealerships want to keep their repeat customers.

Oh alternator clutches are usually disengaged during the warm up phase on most modern cars to save on emissions.

And for the vent, can't you just pop your hood to find out?

^
i see....
can the battery discharging quickly be solely the batteries problem? In other words, can the battery discharge even though its not connected to a car?

Anything auto related ive learned through google and forums so... i dont even know what a VCV looks like or where its located.

Batteries are chemical cells with acid with a lot of buffering properties. Typically a battery will hold charge, but if the chemistry had been altered with age, temp eg they can discharge. Especially if it had been totally discharged before, no matter how much power you pump in, you can never restore it back to "pristine" conditions. Hence if you don't drive your cars that often, I recommend getting one of the many battery conditioners / floaters out there. I use Ctek on all my cars.

A simple google search on the VCV part# yields this. Shouldn't be too hard to verify you have the correct part.

Oh, Canadian tire cares....they try not to replace every chance they get.

I have had 3 batteries replaced by them, and they fight tooth and nail each time.

They stand by the machine that "tests" it and i call BS on it everytime.

I swear their machine doesn't test of surface charges and bad plates.

That is true, it seems that most Walmart in lower mainland doesn't have the equipment / personnel to test the batteries.. they usually just take it in and give you a new ones.. however I find the Energizer size 72 battery (size closest for BMWs).. only about $20 cheaper than OE fit ones.