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-   -   B18A1 into EF (https://www.revscene.net/forums/615945-b18a1-into-ef.html)

Si 05-28-2010 03:54 PM

B18A1 into EF
 
Anyone have any sort of info/experience on this?

the B18's from a 92 Integra... I'm going to be putting it into my 88 CRX Si.

So far what I've learned is that I'll need the matching PR4 ECU and the right engine mounts. OBD0 is what I have, and what will work with this engine from what I've read.

EDIT: Seems like I'll need to pick up the YS1 transmission because my stock one won't match with the B18.


thanks yo

welfare 05-29-2010 08:29 AM

is your crx si? or dx? (maybe a silly question, judging by your screen name)

Si 05-29-2010 08:54 AM

Si, as I said in my post. ;)

welfare 05-29-2010 06:01 PM

oh, right. sorry. didn't see that.
you'll need a pr4 ecu from a 90-91 integra and distributor from that car as well. you'll be keeping your original 1 wire o2 sensor from your rex to replace the 4 wire from the 92 teg exhaust manifold. also, a modified shift linkage from a 90-93 integra, or you can buy them already sized. also, b-series axles and intermediate shaft.
that, and the stuff you mentioned already

Hondahatch 02-01-2011 09:49 PM

ive heard for B into EF you have to bash the driver side of the bay for the ALT. to clear? never confirmed just heard it

b_heebs 02-03-2011 09:17 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondahatch (Post 7288826)
ive heard for B into EF you have to bash the driver side of the bay for the ALT. to clear? never confirmed just heard it


That is correct. This is what mine looked like..

b_heebs 02-03-2011 09:25 AM

YS1 is one of the best cable trannys. Has similar gearing to a type R, although can be hard to find, they were only produced in 93-93 Integras with the B17A (GSR?) If your planning on going turbo down the road the stock LS tranny is great as it has a numerically lower gear ratio (taller gears) and much easier to come across.

spoon.ek9 02-06-2011 10:34 PM

shiiiet this makes me want to toss my b16a2 into my EF for better DD fun :D

fndbt 06-07-2011 08:34 PM

I did this about a year ago now, b18a1 into my EF hatch. I love it! It's great even with the stock LS tranny, but that might just match my driving style.

Since the motor is from a '92, you'll be back-dating the engine wiring to OBD-0, like you said. OBD-1 started in 1992. Your Si harness will work, though I believe the plugs on the motor might be wrong. I'm pretty sure they are different, but I don't have experience there, maybe someone else can chime in. Just be careful with your harness when working with it, it's old and if you mess up some of the wiring you might end up having to troubleshoot wiring when you go to start it up.

And like Welfare said, you'll need the PR4 ECU and distributor from the OBD-0 B18A1 and the 1-wire 02 sensor from your current D16. And the b-series axles and intermediate shaft.

Hopefully you got this with the motor, but you'll also need the rear 't-bracket' for the rear engine mount.

When I did this, I did some reading and saw that you may be able to avoid hammering your frame rail by using a d-series alternator... I think this might be possible by getting an alternator belt of the right length and with the correct number of ribs on it for the d-series alt. I didn't have the right belt at that point myself and was looking forward to smacking the frame rail anyways, so i used the b-series alternator. If you use the b alternator, you have to dent the rail. No big deal.

I used innovative mounts - the fitment and positioning with them is excellent. I also went with the pre-made shift linkage, because as a package with the mounts, I got a good price and didn't want to second-guess my own or someone else's idea of modified linkage. You don't need the front mount if you are getting urethane mounts (not till you add more torque to the motor anyways), and i found i had to cut off the mount bracket on the front crossmember anyways (to get enough clearance for the manifold).

Hoses: I think I bought new ones, stock replacements for the b18a1. For the rad hose, i think I used a short cut piece of the stock EF hose on the radiator end as a shim to slip into the hose from the b18a1 to the motor. That works great, I just had to tighten the sucker right down very tight.

And maintenance stuff: of course it's a good idea to do the timing belt and water pump on the b18 while it's still sitting out in the open. One thing i didn't do was the rear main seal, but it wasn't leaking at the time.. I'm hoping it hangs on for awhile yet.

I was baffled by the vacuum hoses since I'm pretty much a noob, but got it right with a bit of research.

I found these articles really useful. I found that there is a lot more info on b16 and b18 VTEC swaps than there is the good ol' a1 or LS swap, but much of it can be used in this swap as well.

http://www.drivendaily.org/garage/b18a1-swap/

http://www.drivendaily.org/garage/cr...acuum-diagram/
(he posted this again AFTER I spent forever trying to figure it out)

http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=28152

http://www.crxresource.org/modules.p...rticle&sid=134


Good luck and enjoy! :woot2:

fndbt 06-07-2011 08:35 PM

haha and spoon you should swap the motors in your rides BOTH ways just to be different ;)

Shorn 06-07-2011 10:38 PM

4 month old thread??


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