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-   -   Door Popper issue (https://www.revscene.net/forums/641873-door-popper-issue.html)

Celica4ever 04-03-2011 08:04 PM

Door Popper issue
 
Alarm brand is Clifford 53-843-01

so here is what happen, so I have decided to disconnect the trunk popper(which came with the alarm) I used that wire feed it thru the door and bought a 50Lbs door popper solenoid from http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...uct_Code=DP-01 and installed I had to feed negative directly from the battery. so everything work find, I was sooo proud of myself but after 20-25 tries (works every single time) it STOP working!!! I am pretty sure that the alarm(trunk release module got fried) because when I press the button, the alarm doesnt have the clicking noise anymore. every other things works normal so my questions are:
is it a fuse that is blown or the module from the alarm brain?
is there anyway or recommendation that I should do? I know nothing about alarm system. any recomendation will be great!! I love DIY but I guess I fail on this one haha..

orgasm_donor 04-04-2011 12:48 AM

Well, most alarm systems require some sort of relay to operate door lock actuators. If you ran direct, you may have blown the lock output on the alarm brain. Are you in the market for a new alarm anytime soon? :)

Celica4ever 04-04-2011 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by orgasm_donor (Post 7374382)
Well, most alarm systems require some sort of relay to operate door lock actuators. If you ran direct, you may have blown the lock output on the alarm brain. Are you in the market for a new alarm anytime soon? :)

is there anyway I can fix the blown lock output on the alarm brain?

orgasm_donor 04-04-2011 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celica4ever (Post 7374564)
is there anyway I can fix the blown lock output on the alarm brain?

Replace it with another brain pretty much.
I am not 100% sure that that is your problem. Diagnosing over the internetz can be challenging to say the least. Best bet is to bring the car by so we can take a look for you.

Celica4ever 04-04-2011 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by orgasm_donor (Post 7374698)
Replace it with another brain pretty much.
I am not 100% sure that that is your problem. Diagnosing over the internetz can be challenging to say the least. Best bet is to bring the car by so we can take a look for you.

thank you for you reply.
here is what the solenoid seller told me:
"If you hooked it up to a trunk release output, the output is probably burned up. Trunk releases only use around 15 amps. The door pop solenoid needs 50. It needs to have a minimum of 14 gauge wires from the relays to the solenoids and at least 12 gauge wire from the relays to the battery. "

orgasm_donor 04-04-2011 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celica4ever (Post 7374846)
thank you for you reply.
here is what the solenoid seller told me:
"If you hooked it up to a trunk release output, the output is probably burned up. Trunk releases only use around 15 amps. The door pop solenoid needs 50. It needs to have a minimum of 14 gauge wires from the relays to the solenoids and at least 12 gauge wire from the relays to the battery. "

Yup. Which will require a relay to bump up the output from 15 to 50 amps. :)

installerz 04-04-2011 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celica4ever (Post 7374846)
thank you for you reply.
here is what the solenoid seller told me:
"If you hooked it up to a trunk release output, the output is probably burned up. Trunk releases only use around 15 amps. The door pop solenoid needs 50. It needs to have a minimum of 14 gauge wires from the relays to the solenoids and at least 12 gauge wire from the relays to the battery. "

50 amps. Really? Most SPDT relays are 30 amps which have always worked for me with any aftermarket door opening systems.

While I'm not arguing the fact that you have probably blown up part of your alarm, you can use another output to achieve the same goal of popping your trunk from your alarm.


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