REVscene Automotive Forum - Q: Acura RSX Reliability?

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What? 1300? Gotta be leisure
I pay 2100 1 million/300windshiled/200deductable

Can you guys help me out
My fuel consumption has gone up. With normal driving.
What could it be? No CEL. Could it be o2 sensor?
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Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidNguyen (Post 7717453)

When did that start happening? It is quite normal to see fuel consumption going up (sometimes by quite a bit) when it gets cold.

It started in the summer.
I'm thinking of spending money and changing it.
I do have 189xxx kms on it
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Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidNguyen (Post 7717453)

9 reasons why your winter fuel economy bites! - MetroMPG.com

Quote:

9 reasons your winter fuel economy bites

1. More idling

This should be a no-brainer, yet parked idling cars are a common sight in cold weather. Resist the temptation to idle your car to warm it up. An idling engine gets 0 mpg. Consider also that idling the engine does nothing to warm up the tires and drivetrain.

Even in the coldest weather, you can begin driving after 30 seconds from a cold start - keep speeds low/moderate and use gentle acceleration until the temperature gauge starts to climb (source).

2. Low tire pressure

Of course you're smart enough to keep up your tire pressure as the temperature drops, right? A 10-degree (F) change in ambient temperature equates to a 1 psi change in tire pressure (source). Fuel economy declines 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop (source).

3. Increased rolling resistance

Even if you're completely attentive to proper tire pressure, cold ambient temperatures will still cause your tires to return worse mileage. That's because a tire's shape isn't completely round - the sidewall bulges out at the bottom, and where the tread meets the road the small contact patch is actually flat. As the tire rotates, it constantly deforms to this shape, and this deformation requires more energy when the rubber is cold and hard. Rolling resistance at 0 degrees F is 20% greater than at 80 degrees (source 1, source 2).

4. Crappy road conditions

It's increased rolling resistance of another kind: driving through slush and snow. And then there's its wasteful polar (no pun intended) opposite: no friction at all! (A.K.A. wheelspin on ice.)

5. Lower average engine temperature

In the winter, an engine takes longer to reach operating temperature and cools off faster when shut off. Since the engine management system orders up a richer mixture when cold (proportionately more fuel in the air/fuel combination), more fuel is being burned overall.

A block heater can offset this problem (improving fuel economy by 10% in sub-zero conditions - source), as can garage parking, and combining trips (to minimize the number of cold/hot cycles).

Also related...

6. Higher average lubricant viscosity

Engine oil thickens as it cools. So does transmission and differential fluids and even bearing grease. Significantly more energy is needed to overcome the added drag these cold lubricants cause.

Using synthetic fluids can address this problem, since their viscosity changes less at extreme temperatures than traditional mineral fluids.

7. Weaker gasoline

Gasoline doesn't vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won't get as far on a liter of winter gas as you will on a liter of summer gas. (Source.)

8. Higher electrical loads

In colder temps, you use electrical accessories more often:

- lights (in higher lattitudes it's darker in the winter)
- rear window defroster (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right?)
- heater blower motor (I don't have a/c, so this isn't balanced out during warm conditions); heated seats/mirrors
- windshield washer pump (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right? And for frequently cleaning off dirty road spray.)

9. More aerodynamic drag

No, I'm not referring to the layer of snow you're too lazy to brush off the top of the car (though that would hurt mpg too).

A vehicle’s aerodynamic drag is proportional to air density, and the density increases as temperature drops. For every 10 degree F drop in temperature, aerodynamic drag increases by 2%

Thanks for the help. Remmeber it started in the summer
I'm just to cheap to get it fixed.
Other maintenance is good tho =)
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Traum (Post 7717438)

That isn't so bad at all. Is that for work or leisure?

That is for leisure. For work it isn't that much more.

02 Type s; paying almost $2500/yr with 25%

Door actuator is another famous one for Rsx.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Djiban (Post 7685805)

Make sure you don't touch the bulbs with your hands directly cuz I heard the oil on your hands causes the bulbs go out much faster (not sure if it's true or not), use some kind of napkin when you put it in the socket. I've only changed my bulbs 3 times for like 8 yrs. Also, use phillips they tend to last much longer than osram.

I was told that the oils in your fingers burns on to the glass and becomes an insulator. Thus the bulb gets hotter and burns out quicker.

acuras are pretty reliable ive had one as my first car and it was completely fine

Looking to buy Rsx in a couple weeks !! need advice or suggestions please

Hey guys so im a bit new to the whole car enthusiast scene. I really do like the acura rsx, I have been searching on craigslist autotrader, etc. And mostly i do see is people selling their whip for 7k-9k. Most of them would be the 2002 model with 140k on a average on them. Is that a good deal ? What would be a average K that i should get for 7-9k. I dont want to get ripped off or anything, any suggestions. Any feedback would be great . THANKS !

10 year old car divded my 140k equals 14k kma a year.
That's pretty good. Just make sure its accident free and. Doesn't have thrid gear pop out. Changing to a GM fluid will get rid of the pop out
Only down side to RSX is the insurance.
I've own an 04-s for 6yrs? Super reliable and fun to drive.
Over the six yrs I've spent 1500 on maintanece.
Brakes, tires and a sensor that went bad. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
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bought mine back in dec2011, 2002 ABP type-s for $9700. 80,000km . That was the lowest that I've seen (km-price ratio) for months. stock though..

220,000km here. 02. Thing runs like a champ.

mhmm , damn all i see on craigslist is like 140 great, on average for like a decent price. I dont know if I should be more patient to wait it out? I would like to get my car and everything ready before the springmeet haha 2013 ><

do you guys think mileage is a big issue when you come to buy a car, ? but your budget would be around 6-7 k ?

as long as its maintained well i dont see a issue with high kms...

mine has 140k, the previous owner maintained it really well and i continue to maintain really well havent had a single problem. knock on wood