Looking at E36 325's... Common issues?
 

A buddy has his heart set on picking up an E36 325 (or 318 with a potential swap happening later), but seeing as my knowledge of these particular cars is fairly limited, I was hoping to get some insight on what to look for when checking out potential cars. Any common engine, transmission, rust, or electrical issues to watch for?

Here you go - Click here and here :)

Electrical issues - check the trunk wire harness that goes into the trunk lid. They are prone to fraying and exposing live wire, resulting in fires and blown fuses etc.

Other than that, I can't think of anything other than the on-board computer going bad (common.) Most of the E36s should be galvanized so rust shouldn't be a concern. The link provided will give you a good run-down on what should be checked. Bimmerforums.com's E36 section would have a much more comprehensive list of things to check.

Subframe tears: not common, but common enough to worth noting.

Cooling system: plastic radiator neck, plastic water pump impeller, plastic thermostat housing are common weaknesses

OBC: dead pixels

Window regulators

Various suspension rubber bits and the rubber guibo donut.

Get him to buy this and no need for a swap later down the road
http://www.revscene.net/forums/used-...-m3-sedan.html

LOL! Thanks ruthless. :D

They are simple cars to fix. Parts are plenty and cheap.. most cars should have replaced their suspension at least once by now. I would see if the expansion tank is all yellowed and ready to crack.. also check the color of the coolant.. make sure they are BMW blue.

The most annoying thing (to me at least).. is the insurance is stubbornly high.. mine is a 93 and the cost is only a hundred bucks off my other cars.. eg X5 etc etc. It is a value thing and nothing one can do.

Thanks guys! Came across a 328 last night that seemed to be in good condition, though there appears to be some oil leaking from either the oil pan or valve cover gaskets. Those damn engine bays are so tight that it was hard to tell where the leak was coming from without jacking the car up. The guy has agreed to $800 off the asking price, but refuses to agree to a prepurchase inspection unless my friend agrees to raise his offer to closer to the original asking price.

Hrm... Not sure if it's time to run away now or not... lol

^ I would encourage your friend to buy a 328 instead of a 325. The 328 has much more power down low. I was very close to buying a 328 with a 5-speed before I found my E30 and I was amazed at how much power it had in 2nd gear below 3K. If you can find a 328 with a 5-speed (they're quite rare actually), they're a TON of fun.

I would avoid auto E36s like the plague. My dad has one and while it's nice, it's a bit of a slug. Plus, the transmissions are not designed to be serviced which will likely be a problem for most E36s at this point in their life.

Auto Liquidation World has a nice 328i E36 with low K's for $6500.

Craigslist has two, a 1999 and 2000 E46 328i 5-speeds for $5000 and $6000 respectively with approx $200k. The 2000 has the sport package as well.

Yeah, this one is a 5spd. The only issue at play is the fact that he's refusing to let the car go through a proper inspection at the offered price. Normally that should set off some alarm bells in the back of one's head. And it's not that he's refusing an inspection completely... he'd allow it if the offered price was closer to his asking price. *shrug*

Dunno... Torn now.

Edit: Sonik, where on CL did you find those? I've noticed that my computer search vs CL iPhone app search yields completely different results, yet neither have come across a 99+ for those prices.

They dropped their price, E36 328i: 1997 BMW 328 i For Sale | RICHMOND BC

1999 328i: 1999 BMW 328i - 5 Speed Manual Transmission, Xenon

2000 328i w/ Sport Package: 2000 BMW 328i

For the 1999 I emailed the guy all day yesterday and bought a carproof; it checks out, the guy was pretty honest and it seems like it's pretty sorted (tons of recent work done, Inspection II done). So close to buying it, but I need money for moving out soon and it's in fucking Maple Ridge so decided against it.

PM me if you want details.

Thanks. I dunno, i think he has his heart set on an E36 not an E46. I'll show him those though.

Get a cheap mirror.. it is easy to see the difference between the valve cover gasket vs oil pan leaks.

328 is OBD2, I prefer OBD1 ones just because one less O2 sensor to worry about. Those sensors are placed at such awkward places!

Also does it have standard wheels and suspension? The problem with rear sub-frame nearly always get aggravated by people putting way too aggressive suspension and wheel setup. Most people forget that e36 were created in the days where 15" wheels are the norm, the tires have higher profiles than ones these days.

It has standard E36 M3 rims and tires, though the suspension has been altered.

Godwin, want to help change an oil pan gasket for some beer? :D lol

Haha unfortunately I don't drink! However the gasket is really cheap and easy to do, I am sure SG! etc can probably do better. I haven't need to touch my oil pan for so long (other than annual under the car inspection) because I do fluid evacuation via the top, and with the magnets in the filter housings all the metallic gunk goes there.

If your friend is set on the 328i.. get this.. think about it as a VAGCOM for pre CAN BMWs. OBD1 diagnostics is accessed via pumping the gas pedals etc.. so it is much easier. Another thing I would count against OBD2 e36 is the traction control is a new addition and can be temperamental.

I think I6 configuration is easier to access than V6 in a latitudinal setting especially if you have to access things around the firewall.

Don't forget to go over to BCBimmers.. chances are, if there is a decently priced BMW on sale locally, it has been critiqued to death there.

Good luck.. e36s have a special place in my heart.. they fit like comfy jeans (especially those with flock cloth) and you can really feel the edge of the envelope. Oh 4 doors do drive better.

5-7 hours book time to replace the oil pan gasket? Holy shiet!

I signed up for BCBimmers but have yet to be approved to view any of the content. Are there any easier ways to replace the gasket without taking out the suspension and steering rack?

Hmm it depends what you have.. if you have a cherry picker, you can jack up the engine. or pick a car without the gasket leak in the first place? Do you have pics of the engine bay? If it is valve cover leak it is very obvious (vs an oil pan leak).

5-7 hours is because the engine is sitting on the steering / suspension.. price to pay for a 50:50 balance.