Hypertech Max Energy Sport (Speed6 & 3)
 

Thought I'd post up a review for this fine product.

Hypertech Product # 62003

From the site:
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Adjustable Features

Premium Octane: +68HP +38TQ (believable)

Cold Air Intake Tuning AEM Brute Force, BEGi Cool Air System, Cobb Tuning SF Intake, CorkSport Short Ram, Custom Performance Engineering Xcel Nano Air, Custom Performance Engineering Xcel Cold Air, HKS Racing Suction Intake System, Injen Cold Air, K&N Typhoon, MAZDASPEED Cold Air, Takeda Attack
Top Speed Limiter 25 - 75 MPH in 5 MPH increments, 81 to 255 MPH to match speed rated tires
Rev Limit -500 to +500 RPM
0-60 MPH Restriction
DTCs Read and Clear
Return Back To Stock
Internet Updateable
Engine Idle RPM -100 to + 200 RPM in 50 RPM increments
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I decided to buy this after doing some research online about HT vs Cobb AP and that was pretty much my two main options since the community who've used both strongly support each and the respective companies also offer great support and are active in the online communities as well. Somethings thats reassuring in a way.

This was my first time using an ECU flasher and the only other plug in for the car is my MSD Dashhawk. It is ridiculously simple to use, which is nice for the luddites. I'll leave it as that as menu operation isnt the be all end all but it gets the job done.

As for the gains.

Giggity. If you're familiar with that word, then you too can share the same grin Quagmire does. I havent dyno'd my car (ever) but the seat dyno tells me it does exactly what it claims to. Which is moar power as well better or comparable mileage to the stock ecu map. Once you clear the WOT Restriction or 0-60 Limiter, this bitch comes alive for a heavy TC 4cyl.

Just a note on the mileage, due to job conditions, I'm still running my snow tires as I write this and I have yet to see a drop in mileage. I'm still averaging 480km's a tank with Chev 94 Oct.

Here's why I bought the HT over the Cobb AP. This is my DD and I dont plan on going catless w/ a DP & BT (yet...). Not to mention, as I'll detail below, the HT was pretty much $300 cheaper. If you've ever looked at one locally at NAPA/Lordco/MOPAC, dont bother. MOPAC Langley was the cheapest at $496.xx where as streetsideauto.com had it going for $329 US. You can use autoanything.com for a current low price and then take that price to streetsideauto to get it another dollar off. I had shipped it to TSB Shipping in Point Roberts WA and I flashed the ECU before coming back across the border. It's instantly noticeable.

If you have a Speed 3 or 6 and have a few bolt ons but no ECU flash, you are seriously missing out in my opinion.

Also, just an FYI for DTC and this engine. My car came with a Mazdaspeed CAI but no MAF Straightener. Before realizing this, the HT flash would trip a CEL and the Dashhawk would report a DTC of 2138 I think (bank1 lean). Read some stuff online, found a MAF Straightener online for $15 as MOPACs order still hasnt arrived (from March) and Lordco doesnt have the part in their cat's at all. Used to the DH to clear the DTC, reflash to stock, pop the straightener in, drive, stop, reflash with the HT and all is well with the Universe so far.

Another also, any owner of a car with a CAI and no MAF Straightener should get a MAF Straightener. Just saying.

Thanks for the review. I was planning on picking up this or an Access Port in the future, but I haven't spent much time researching them yet.

There's quite a lengthy thread on mazdaspeedforums.org about various other users reviewing the HT and then, there is the Cobb fans chiming in. You have to sign up to read but its free.

After re-reading my review, I should clarify that when I said the ECU flash is "instantly noticeable", that was mainly under load. You might be able to notice a smoother idle but I think that was more my MAF straightener smoothing things out.

Between the two, it all depends on what you have done and want to do with your car. From what I can tell from the MSF review thread, there's been a "few" zoom zoom booms with the AP (most likely user based problems) and none with the HT.

If you have the desire and budget to mod the car large in the immediate future, get the AP. If you're sticking with a few bolts on (ie: CAI, CBE) and thats about it, I think the HT is the more appropriate choice.

I guess you can chalk me up as a Cobb fan. I feel the Cobb AP when used with Cobb ATR is far more superior. ATR isn't that difficult to learn, lots of resources online. Cobb is constantly developing their product. They recently released the new boost base tuning vs the stock load based. Plus they just unlogged faster datalogging and unlocked new wastegate tables.

As is, the two products work well. If you were just going to flash the OTS maps and not mess around with the tune, then either would work well.

Provided you dont drive off with the HT tune in your car :P we could meet up sometime and we can plug it into your car and you can check it out.

I think both Cobb and Hypertech continually support their products. I updated my HT earlier this week - not sure what they changed but hey, it still works.

Whats the user interface like on the Cobb anyways? The HT case feels cheap honestly / clunky, the buttons in the casing seems loose (but it doesnt have to be on the same level of a Dashhawk) and I've only seen pictures of the AP.

The Cobb AP is indeed made pretty cheaply, but it does the job. I only use it for flashing my maps and datalogging. The new firmware update allows for faster datalogging, which is a huge plus.

I have a Dashhawk as well, it's great for real time monitoring, but it sucks for datalogging. 5 parameters is not enough for me.

I'll agree with the DH and 5 parameter limit is weak. At first, being the newb (i'm onto semi-newb level imo) that I was when I bought it was happy. Now, I'd like to see moar.

edit: Have you upgraded the fuelpump? I've read a few things about the AP needing more fuel pressure to prevent running lean and also stop FP loss @ WOT while aslo helping to tune aggressively.

Yes I'm running the CP-E HPFP. And no, it's not an AP thing, you'll need an upgraded pump regardless of what tuning solution you have if you have a failing pump. The higher boost you run, the greater the importance of having good pressure. Cobb says no less than 1200 PSI at WOT is safe, but people on the forums say no less than 1600PSI.

The ATR does have beta fuel pump tables where you can raise the commanded fuel pressure. But since I see over 17XX PSI at WOT, I've left the tables alone.