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girlcrazy_420 07-23-2011 10:26 PM

Random Install Pics
 
Feel free to critisize my install. Started getting sloppy after 6 hours and just wanted to hear it.

What I did: Alpine x303 HU, 4" Alpine fronts, 3x Alpine type-r subs in ported box wired at 1.5 ohms, Multiple strands of 4guage from battery to 1 fared stinger capacitor. Kicker 750.1 Mono, I had to mount the box in a awkward spot because of the wheel wells, but everything is literally BOLTED down. The bass is loud and clean, flexes out the roof so I'm happy :) I still need to tidy up the wiring, and do the "BIG THREE" I have it wired for future upgrades (up to 3 amps) But at the moment amplifying 4" speakers seems pointless.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00066.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00065.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00064.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00063.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00061.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00056.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00055.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0723-00054.jpg

installerz 07-24-2011 07:05 AM

It looks functional, but I didn't see any fusing at the battery. It should be as close as possible to the positive post.

Amplifiers mounted to boxes with a lot of output tend to fry from all of the vibration. Is there a different spot for it off of the box?

Is it possible to install 6.5" speakers in the doors or build kick-pods for them?

I like how you've thought about the future of your build by adding extra power wire & rca's. Very wise!

silva95teg 07-24-2011 07:19 AM

As said above you definitely need some fusing, one of those 4 awg hits ground and you will know about it.

Just wondering why you went with three 4 awg instead of one 0 and a distro block. Did you already have the power cable ?

girlcrazy_420 07-24-2011 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silva95teg (Post 7522498)
As said above you definitely need some fusing, one of those 4 awg hits ground and you will know about it.

Just wondering why you went with three 4 awg instead of one 0 and a distro block. Did you already have the power cable ?

I've done tons of systems before and I can do a nice clean OEM looking install, this build is strictly for noise. But yes, I already had all the wire so I may as well put it to use. I wanted to keep and amperage as high as I could over the distance of the truck. I've still got another 50feet id like to lay somewhere within the truck. :fullofwin: I still do need a distro block but for the price of them Im going to stick with ring terminals. Yes I realize I should have fuses... But whats the point of a great big power wire with a little fuse. Seems to me like it would take away amperage

girlcrazy_420 07-24-2011 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by installerz (Post 7522495)
It looks functional, but I didn't see any fusing at the battery. It should be as close as possible to the positive post.

Amplifiers mounted to boxes with a lot of output tend to fry from all of the vibration. Is there a different spot for it off of the box?

Is it possible to install 6.5" speakers in the doors or build kick-pods for them?

I like how you've thought about the future of your build by adding extra power wire & rca's. Very wise!

Thanks for the input, I'm going to change a few things :) Would the amplifier be better off if I put rubber spacers on the screws between the amp and the box? I am quite happy where it is.

I do have a set of 6.5 premiers with seperate crossovers and tweets but I think they will hit the window assembly in the doors. I offroad the truck water/mud so pods will just get destroyed :( I was thinking of putting the 6.5's in the rear and amplifying them with a JL300.4 and mounting the tweets and crossovers on the roof pointing forward.

LenovoTurbo 07-24-2011 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by girlcrazy_420 (Post 7522533)
Yes I realize I should have fuses... But whats the point of a great big power wire with a little fuse. Seems to me like it would take away amperage

There are high amp inline fuses for these kind if application, it won't take away the amperage.
What's going to happen is when one of your big power wire cuts into the chassis somewhere, BAM short out your battery and will stay shorted until your wire or battery blows up since there's no fuse to quickly break the connection.

Use a damn fuse. lol

silva95teg 07-24-2011 12:29 PM

Yeah fuses do dot restrict current, I can see why you think that because they are small but they are designed to allow up to their rating through without failure, if they were parasitic they would heat up well before their rating. I would put fuses in for sure, I am guessing you have never shorted out a battery, I have seen a wrench go red hot in seconds.
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