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Fuchs Engine Oil? Has anyone used any Fuchs brand engine oil before? I'm considering to switch from Motul 8100 to Fuchs Titan GT1. I have a few friends that have used both and tell me better things about the Fuchs. Any feedback would be great. Thanks. |
Looks like nobody gives a fuch. |
Try giving Blitzkrieg Autowerkes a call regarding Fuchs oil. I believe they carry it in bulk but I'm not sure if they will sell it in small quantities. They use it in their cars if I recall correctly. 248 E 1st AVENUE VANCOUVER, BC V5T 1A5 Parking on Lorne St. or 1st Ave PHONE +1 604 253-6586 info@blitzkriegautowerks.ca HOURS MONDAY to FRIDAY 9:00AM to 5:00PM CLOSED Saturday, Sunday + Holidays |
All I know if AJR is promoting it over Motul...and after a quick search it seems Fuchs oil is good stuff too but whether or not it's "better" than Motul that's hard to say. For one, it's definitely harder to get. |
What kind of car? |
Good oil is good oil. Why bother trying to find better? I used Motul in very high horsepower vehicles with great results. |
I think what's more important is finding the correct oil weight that works well with your car as opposed to different brands. |
^ Wouldn't matter if they don't do oil changes frequently :troll: |
^ Good point lol... |
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DailyTech - California Looks to Stop Drivers' Frequent Oil Changes |
find more info on the oil and its grade. i remember a tech telling me once that redline's oil was the only grade 5 oil out there, at the time, even motul was only grade 4. now if that really makes a difference for everyday regular driving, that i couldnt say. hell, i still use regular castrol gt 5w30. |
^ You're talking about Group 5 basestocks consisting of esters, vs Group 4 Polyalphaolefins (PAO). I don't know of any oil that is Pure Group 5 basestock. It needs to be blended with other kinds of basestocks to produce a usuable oil. It's silly to go for an oil because one believes that Group 5's better than Group 4. The molecular structures is different, but there's no need to believe Group 5 is the ultimate end all and the best oil. I guess the analogy I could give is that a $100 Carbon fibre pencil does not work better $1 wood one. It's the same with tribology. As long as the grade is right for the application, a multitude of oils (even the cheapest crap you could find at walmart) will protect your engine. Your Castrol 5w30 is most likely a Group 2 mineral oil with mineral processing which more than suffices. Quote:
What do you drive and how is your car used? Unless you're driving anything but a passenger car on roads, you're grasping at straws and wasting $$$$$ that combined with frequent oil changes. My opinion? Fuck Fuchs. Any SAE oil will do, whether you want to pay $10 or $70. And if you think anyone here could demonstrate a measurable and scientific difference between the Motul and Fuchs, you're mistaken. What do your friends 'notice' that is 'better' with the Fuchs? The only difference is price and the people who are willing to pay. Where'd you get the idea to use Fuchs? At a local performance shop? |
OP? |
Hey LT, does synthetic (IV,V) really last longer than regular group III oil? I remember seeing guys on BITOG using IV/V oils in S2000s driven hard change oil only every 10000+ miles and the UOA seems fine. |
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True Syn formulas (Although Group III+ can be classified as synthetic :whistle: start out with higher TBN #. So yes, technically they can last longer. They seem to retain the number for a longer time too. PP 5w30 is a Group III+, and people get plenty of life out of it. It's what I use for my 16,000km oil changes. |
I see, and you would say there are no significant within-category differences? ie. IV is IV no matter which brand you go with For example, Motul has the 8100 X- and 8100 Eco- oils which I believe are all group IV. |
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You need to get into the 300V to get group IV. |
Debating on oil for daily drivers? LOL |
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Get the cheapest synthetic and make sure you do your oil changes on time... |
Penzoil Platinum is highly recommended. Great group III oil. |
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Additives can be different too. |
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jk |
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