FS: 1991 Talon (361hp/292tq @ 20psi) - $6,000
 

Hey everyone,

$6,000 and i'm losing my shirt, but it is what it is (as it is with every car you dump tons of money into). PM me if you're interested.

Details:
Body has 322,000kms on it, motor was just refreshed, many many of the parts have less than 3000kms on them as i'm on my 3rd motor within 3,000kms (faulty injector killed the first motor and faulty machine work blew up my stroker). Car has a sunroof, PS, no A/C, a wiper-less rear wing, eclipse tail lights, and a competition engineering rollbar. Onto the parts list, guaranteed i'll miss many somethings.

Turbo:
GT35R Turbo w/ ceramic coated mitsu hotside
SS Turbo Oil Feed Line w/ 4micron Earl filter
SS Turbo Water Lines
SS Turbo Return Line w/ AN -10 Fittings
Oil Pan w/ Bung w/ AN -10 fitting

Intake:
4" Intake w/ Velocity Stack and 6" Cone Filter
Tial BOV
JM Fab Drag Intake w/ Secondary Injectors and NOS Ports, flanged for QX45 (90mm) TB, with QX45 Throttle Body w/ tps
Kinetic FMIC w/ 3" inlet and outlet and 3" piping

Exhaust Manifold:
FP Manifold, coated

Exhaust:
Completely Ceramic Coated O2 Housing w/ Tial 44m Wastegate port, Tial 44mm Wastegate w/ multiple springs, and DP w/ Wastegate recirc
3.5" catback w/ Magnaflow

Head:
Black Poweder Coated Valve Cover with -10 AN fittings
Ferrea Valves
Crower Springs and Retainers
3g Lifters
Custom Colt Cams, approx 280 duration
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears
Kiggly HLA Oil Restrictor

Bottom End:
Stock Pistons, Rods and Crank
ARP Mains
Balance Shafts eliminated
Kiggly Girdle
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer
ARP Head Studs
Brand New Knock Sensor
Polyurethane Filled Engine Mounts

Clutch:
ACT 2600 PP
ACT 6 puck Sprung
Fidanza Flywheel

Ignition:
Dynatek ARC 2
Coil on Plug

Fuel:
SS Filter to Rail Line w/ AN fitting, goes to AEM Fuel Rail w/ FP Gauge, with AN lines to Aeromotive FPR
Secondary Stock Fuel Rail w/ -8AN fitting
Rochestor 1000's (one need to be replaced)
Denso 550's
Supra Pump

Brakes:
2nd Gen dual piston front calipers w/ SS lines
Rear SS lines

Suspension:
1g Front Strut Bar
Tein SS Coilovers

Coolant System:
SS Upper Rad line
Stainless Overflow
Upgraded Rad fans (SPAL & Mishimoto)

Methanol package:
NOS Cheater Solenoid
750 Cooling Mist Meth Jot w/ check valve
650 Cooling Mist Meth Jot w/ check valve
AEM 5G Methanol Tank
Snow Performance Pump (Stage 2)
Push Lock Line (from back to front of car)
AEM Meth Flow Gauge and Meter

Wheels and Tires:
Core Racing 17" Rims with Bridgestone Potenza 225/17/45

Computer:
AEM ECU
AEM Wideband (not gauge style, plugs into AEM)
Greddy Profec B
Greddy Turbo Timer

Exterior:
Carbon Fiber Hood (has a crack near the front)
1g Eclipse Rear lights and center piece
Wiperless Rear Wing

Interior:
Stock Gauge Cluster with Autometer Tach and Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge installed
Autometer Phantom -30/+30 Boost Gauge
2 Shift Lights (Red = Low Methanol, Yellow = Tach set redline)
Yonaka Racing Seats w/ 1g Rails
RCI 5 Pt Harness
Battery Relocation Kit using 2ot welding wire comes with Optima Battery Mount and Moroso Power Switch behind rear tail light

Other:
Mopac Catch Can (with 2 -10 AN Fittings off Valve Cover)
Upgraded Bosch 90amp Alternator
Jay Racing Relocation Kit with Steel bracket
B&M external Oil Cooler with Oil Filter relocation w/ SS Lines w/ AN Fittings
Competition Engineering Roll-Cage with side bars (to make it a 6 pt) disconnected. Was going to put these on baja quick disconnects

The Good:
Car just put down 361/292 with minimal tuning, definitely has good power and can make much more with the methanol activated. Just did the front-end sway bars, tie rods and the car is solid. With the cage it’s simply a go-cart and a riot to drive.

The Bad:
- Needs a new set of primary injectors (1000’s) to make it run properly, injector #3 is bad.
- Needs an alignment, I haven’t gotten it done after I rebuilt the motor and front end
- Ran a leakdown on the stock block and it was close, but cyl 2 and 3 were about 16%, likely just valves not sealing to head. I decked the new head but I didn’t get a valve job done.
- On the dyno we did notice that under a full pull at 17psi it did blow a bit of oil, so we did a leakdown test and it showed 16% on one cylinder, so it may need a new set of rings, or just drive it the way it is as it isn't major.

Parts are worth way more than $5k, you could buy it and part it out and double your money. I've lost interested and want the garage space back.

As a bonus I will also throw in:
- 4 bolt rear-end (complete)
- Tranny Scatter Shield
- 2.4L Crank (to make a 2.3L stroker, is from my stroker motor that popped a piston)
- Magnus Race Rods used in my 2.3L stroker
- Spare Block

Essentially you could build another stroker bottom end for it and you'd just have to buy pistons. All of the other components would bolt on and the mains/heads and girdle from the stock block in the car would bolt on as well.

Pictures can be found here: Angel | Facebook

Hopefully that link works.

PM me if you're interested, for $6,000 it's a steal, i've got over 20K into it.