Synchro or master clutch and master slave problems
 

so i want to get one installed but there are no lines in the radiator for it... i just picked up a 1990 celica gts and it has symptoms of warn synchros but when the engine is cold and still warming up it shifts fine..

Theres no pump in a manual trans to circulate the oil so you cant run a cooler. Put a thicker oil in the trans.

what kind of thicker oil should i get exactly? there is already new fluid in the tranny 75w90 replaced 3 months ago which says on the receipt the previous owner gave me, doesnt say what kind but from what it says it cost $11... really $11??

i remember seeing 90w140(around there)?? should i try that or is it to high??

WTF? $11 tranny fluid? :rofl:

You should change that shit out ASAP man. :D

yeah i am not sure if its for a top off or drain and fill...

i just need to know which trans fluid to go for, i did see synchromesh at lordco for only around $6 a liter... the good trans oil is damn expensive, i think about $20-$30 a litre for redline i think it was...

Lots of gear oil is only $11. Yeah you can give the 90w140

GM synchromesh works very well, but not in every application...

what kind of car is this??

1990 celica gts 5sfe... i have tried redline mt90 so far no help... i was thinking of putting 1 litre of penzoil synchromesh with the mt90 but it seems alot thinner then the mt90 plus i wasnt sure of mixing them together... i think ill try some 90w140 next maybe, possibly mix with some synchromesh? not sure

thinner transmission oil will help with shifting

thicker transmission oil will help with noise

redline MTL is very thin... i usually use that in most applications... but GM/delco syncromesh is a very good product, but is NOT synthetic...

i would avoid mixing the oils, as they do not always mix...

occasionally, the clutch doesn't always release properly, causing the input shaft to continue turning... that makes it feel like the transmission isn't shifting nicely...

have you tried bleeding your clutch?

nope ill try to get the clutch bleed, it does kinda look like dark milk chocolate and the clutch doesnt feel right also, it seems like when its 2 inches from the ground it feels kinda loose... im use to it by now though.. ill let you guys know how it goes after i get this done..

it is also possible that your clutch pressure plate and disc are warped or worn or damaged causing your clutch to not release 100%

this being said, i'm not at all surprised that your 22 year old transmission isn't shifting smoothly... high mileage old cars usually have those issues... which is why i double clutch going downshifting and upshifting... takes a lot of teh notchyness away...

so i just done the clutch fluid flush went through a whole liter of dot 3 fluid and looks clear but the reservoir looks a bit dark probably from being so dark all the time... i havnt driven the car that hard yet but still seems a little notchy/grindy when i shift into 2nd... and the looseyness when the clutch pedal is all the way pushed in is still there..

previous owner gave me receipts of clutch being done 2.5 years ago so that should be ok but maybe they didnt do a good job on it causing this problem? dont know

the car only has 200,000kms pretty good for being so old id say... hopefully i can still get atleast 50,000kms untill the tranny goes out... not sure if i should bring it into a shop to check that clutch pedal looseyness i probably will eventualy since it maybe a fix to the grind/notchyness

what do you mean by clutch pedal looseness?? does the pedal get soft near the bottom?? or does the pedal move left/right near the bottom??

if the previous owner wasn't gentle to the transmission (quick shifts, forced shifts, clutchless shifts, not double clutching, etc) then i am not surprised that at 200k, it shifts poorly...

keep driving it for what it is... so long as you don't do any more damage, it should continue to drive that way for a very long time...

the pedal gets soft near the bottom is exactly it.. from the other cars i have tried its nothing like this.. would be great to know if this is normal or not..

i guess ill have to learn how to double clutch for now.. if i double clutch down shift at high rpms should this thing not grind? it also grinds while i up shift at higher rpms into third.. not sure if there is a grind if i shift it slow..

new clutches are typically fairly soft near the bottom of the pedal stroke... worn clutches are usually very firm thru the middle, and then very firm near the floor... geometry of teh pressure plate and diaphragm spring with a thicker or thinner disc...

i would recommend learning to double clutch your shifts to preserve your transmission...

alright just a little update cuz i think either my master clutch, master slave or clutch is going out...

this happened 3 times so far, the clutch pedal stuck to the ground where the looseness in the clutch pedal is 1 inch from ground, this all happened sitting at a red light while i left the clutch pedal into the ground. i pulled it back up no problem though and still works... i havent seen any leaks running to the master clutch or slave.. it also grinds if i shift into reverse if i do it at a normal paste most of the time..

have you had it looked at professionally? it's often times hard to diagnose just by reading someone's symptoms...

nope, i think i should try stans transmissions? or will they not bother to look at the master clutch/slave cylinders? which shop is the BEST to get it looked at?

hoping its just the master clutch/slave cylinder, that would be awesome.. i hate shifting so slow..

so your pedal stuck to the ground and u had to pound on the pedal to bring it back up? that sounds like something is mechanically bent/lose causing binding...

make sure your E-brake is pulled up, and your car is on level ground and can't roll...

grab a light and look at your clutch pedal under your dash... you should see where the clutch pedal pivots on the clutch pedal bracket. wiggle your pedal left and right... it should move less than an inch... if this is good, use your hand to depress the clutch pedal.

there will be a skinny rod attached to the clutch pedal that pushes in thru the firewall. this is your clutch master cylinder, and the attachment fork to the pedal is called the clevis. make sure the clevis and master rod adjuster are tight. there master cylinder rod is threaded into the clevis and there is a nut to lock this in place. if it is not tight, then let me know... i will write out instructions to check and adjust this.

disconnect the clevis from the clutch pedal. do this by removing the cotter pin that retains the clevis pin, and then sliding the clevis pin out. inspect the clevis pin. if there is a groove worn into the centre of the pin, then replace the clevis pin, and the clutch pedal clevis bushing. these are NOT expensive at the dealer.

*cheep trick is to turn the clutch pedal clevis bushing 180 degrees to use the other side of the bushing. do the same with the clevis pin.

grease the clevis pin on assembly. once again, make sure the clevis is tight on the master cylinder rod...

if all of these items are good, you have "other issues" causing your clutch pedal to get stuck. if you cannot figure this out, go see a professional!

i found the leak!!!!

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/7278/dsc00601ji.jpg

what is this thing circled in red called? pic aint that great, its deep down in there, i can get a better pic tomorrow, i am 100% sure thats the leak, i wiped it clean with finger to smell it but couldnt get a small, i then pressed the clutch a few times and a few new drops dripped on it..

that possibly looks like the clutch slave cylinder... that's a terrible picture tho lol