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Lf: shop to recharge ac Can anyone recommend me a shop preferably in Burnaby to have my car ac recharged? It's a newer car so it'll use the same refrigerant as most cars on the road. Looking for a place that's hopefully cash friendly ;) |
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All places are cash friendly ;) hehe. Was thinking the same thing... Cmon dukes whatcha got in surrey ? :) Posted via RS Mobile |
Surrey is WAY too mainstream. :troll: |
OP, if it's a recharge you need, do it yourself. It is uber easy. Get recharge kit from Lordco, CT, wherever. I just did the wife's van. |
I thought the ones they sell here is r12a (propane), whereas most cars use r134a? you can't recharge r134a here without a license, the US have recharge kits for r134a at walmart though. |
I have a license to kill........... they call me Bond. James Bond. All kidding aside, I didn't know you had to have a license to recharge the A/C. I think the r12a (freon) is the dangerous stuff that needs a license. The r134a is safer and can be done by anyone. |
I "think" R12A is no longer commercially available in Canada although I'm sure Bob, George and Greg at Back Alley AC Repairs can recharge it for you. The common practice is to perform the R134a conversion/retrofit. You can still go to an AC shop in the US to refill R12A. R134a is what's being used in most cars, I believe 94 and up? (Somebody with more knowledge can correct me.) There is debate about the kits sold at Canadian Tire. Some say it's a band-aid fix. If your AC system is leaking, constantly recharging it with the kits isn't going to solve the problem. If you have a leak in the system, it's best to have it properly repaired. But for some people, they don't give a shit and whatever works so whatever floats your boat / YMMV. |
well, if your AC system still has SOME charge to it, and hasn't leaked out completely, you can recharge with the off the shelf R134a AC kits... if your system is completely empty of refrigerant, then you NEED to replace your receiver dryer with a new one, and have your system vacuumed to boil off any moisture, and then you can recharge it... otherwise, moisture will kill our expansion valve and/or compressor... |
No Duracool etc are "hydrocarbon" mixes to substitute R12a, it is not R12a. R12a are still available at Marine shops (it is pretty expensive now). R134a is what is commonly used but it is still not very environmentally friendly. It is being replaced by Dupont's HFO-1234yf, Mercedes and Cadillac are the first with commercial products S class and XTS. I would suggest if it is among friends.. have a meet up.. charge up the systems with coollant and a dye (usually option kits would have it), everyone run the AC system for a week.. then meet up again in an evening like tonight.. check for leaks with a dark light.. then add lub etc and coolant for those cars which are not leaking. Note: the coolant + oil acts as a lubricant for the compressor.. so you need to add the oil along with your coolant. Since you don't use too much of it.. that's why I suggest have a group meet to make material use more efficient. Another thing not to do, don't cheap out with the cheapest hose, get ones with a pressure reading, so you don't overcharge / undercharge the system. R12a runs at a higher pressure vs R134a.. look the values up on your repair manuals before you guys meet. If you are environmentally responsible.. get a empty propane tank and a scale.. weigh the empty tank and evacuate the coolant before you recharge.. there are places that actually buy back coolant. Harbour freight actually have a decent AC setup cable set for $60. Quote:
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I was afraid my wife's van had a leak, so was totally prepared to take it to a shop to have fixed. Before I did that, I wanted to recharge the system in case it wasn't a leak. Luckily it was not a leak. The procedure really is simple. Just need to read the directions (OK, that may be difficult for a lot of people - reading comprehension fail) and fully understand the steps before you go ahead. |
If you keep your car outside in our climate for any extended amount of time, there will be coolant leak, because different hose connections don't expand contract at the same rate. My suggestion is always add a diagnostic dye at the initial charge and add lub oil. Also if you don't have a gauge or know the psi, you might need to recharge next year.. Hydrocarbon mix are more volatile than the original. That's why recharging with the original R134a if able is cheaper on the long run. Since you have mixed the coolant, the shop will have to evacuate the whole system etc. Quote:
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I recharged with r134a. I believe that's what was originally in the car. |
Where did you buy your r134a MG1? They only carry redtek R12a and what not at CT and wal-mart. I believe it is illegal to sell r134a to unlicensed techs here in Canada due to CFCs. |
R12 is illegal. R12a is the redtek stuff. R134a is the freon used on newer cars. Get the facts straight first. I personally don't trust the in a can solutions. Only try them ONCE and if that doesn't work go to professionals. If it works great, but if it doesn't, you are probably in need of a lot more freon than the 250g or something the in-a-can solution is providing at each time. Many cans sold in the States with R134a comes premixed with oil and dye so if you are adamant about fixing the system go that route. Then there's my volvo. Which requires inserting bread clips into the compressor wheel to make a/c work. ymmv. http://i2.minus.com/i4YDm.JPG |
^ There we go. True R12 is illegal and not available. R12a is the knock off variant found in the can. |
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