tools/greases required for brake change?
 

about to start my first brake job tomorrow. what are the tools, and lubrication i need for slider pins and brake pads? can I use any kind of grease or a specific one? Where can I buy c clamps for brakes that are not expensive? also impact driver. Is it necessary to open bleeder valve when compressing piston? if so, how do I bleed the air out after or should I be fine without opening the valve. Thanks!

brake change is simple.. go to lordco and buy urself a synthetic brake lube pack for only a dollar+. next all u need is some metric wrenches/ sockets, wired brush, towel, gloves and possibly a breaker bar. C-clamp, pick one up from lordco/crappy tire if ur planning to do ur own brake changes from now on. when compressing the piston back in, make sure the brake RESERVOIR is open NOT the bleeder. there is no need to open it unless ur bleeding/flushing or changing the caliper.

by the way if rear brakes are disk instead of drum, you may need to twist the piston into the caliper instead of simply pushing it with a c-clamp. You can usually use pliers or you can get a little tool from most auto places that looks like a little block with different pins on the sides for a ratchet that is ment for the turning in the piston.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/B...Tool/2990062.p

or..

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

Either buy new rotors or get them turned. There is nothing that sucks more than being all proud of your brake repair, but having your pedal go "whomp whomp whomp" every time you hit the bakes from shitty rotors.

Oh! and brake fluid. It's a closed system, so when your pads are low, your fluid should be lower, and when you put new pads in, the fluid in the reservoir should go back up to fill. If someone has topped it up, then you need to remove it, so make sure you have a turkey baster or large syringe on hand. You also need to go and buy a new turkey baster, otherwise the next pilgram holiday will be full of disappoint.

One more thing...fluid. Depending on the age of the car, and how long its been between changes, it might be time to do a fluid change. Changes the feeling of the brake pedal like you wouldn't believe. If you can do it yourself, its super cheap. Dino had a lot of fun the last time we did it.

"push" "hold" "release"

Those words are her 'nam. :)

Get some break degreaser, it helps a lot if the slider pins are dirty.

Is it easy to bleed brakes myself? I was going to buy a Brake bleed kit at princess auto..
Posted via RS Mobile

Is that different kind of grease from brake quiet grease? Any specific brands you guys recommend?
Posted via RS Mobile

yes and no? if you get a proper kit with a pump - it's easier.

If the kit is only a tube with a catch container - you'll have to pump the brakes, watch the tube for bubbles, etc - and at the same time - topping up your brake fluid reservoir.


It's not hard - just a bit of running around.

Degreaser is a solvent spray that breaks down grime and dirt that is collected around the brakes. I usually just buy whatever is cheapest, they are all generally the same.

-Copaslip has worked well to lubricate and reduce squeaking/squealing
-if you haven't had your brake fluid flushed within the last 3-5 years, do it now while you're doing the pads/rotors. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so the quality of the brake fluid can degrade over time even without a lot of usage.
-use a flare-nut wrench (or a 6-point box end wrench) when loosening/tightening bleeder valve
-put on a respirator. Brake dust isn't as toxic as it used to be, but still gross blowing out black snot at the end of the day. Safety glasses wouldn't hurt either.

You guys put too much effort into a brake pad/rotor change... It's a .5-1hr job.

you dont need to open the bleeder valve to push back the piston... just put in a screwdriver or prybar and push the rotor back to compress it ( or just use your c-clamp if you got one ).. the brake fluid will just be pushed back into the system so theres no need to waste time bleeding it after you're done..BUT if your master cylinder is full and you push them back, it will overflow.

-lube sliders
- anti-seize on both ends of the brake pads
- small wire brush to clean the metal part on the caliper bracket (forgot the name) where the pads sit on top.. and if you want you can also put some on the shims on top of the pads where the caliper touches. D:

These are the ones I've used:

http://image.ceneo.pl/data/products/...052010412l.jpg

http://www.autowares.com/images/prod...-05351-400.jpg

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/im...ct/q135084.jpg

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/mst97a.jpg

Where did you buy those products?
Posted via RS Mobile

not unless you have a truck where you have to pull the 4x4 hubs :okay:

http://distilleryimage5.ak.instagram...0a1f9860_7.jpg

I also use a large C-Clamp with an old set of brake pads to compress the piston

M-77 Molykote on the back of the pads to prevent squeal

OEM Honda Silicon grease for the caliper sliding pins

funny...i never seen a tube of honda M-77 before, and didn't know honda even had silicone grease

C-clamp is fine if you already have a suitable, large enough one... otherwise, if you're going to pick up a tool for it, grab the one Lancerion posted - they're six whole dollars at Princess: Disc Brake Spreader | Princess Auto

While you're there, you can also grab a brake bleed kit for under $5 (http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/B...-Kit/2990048.p), and probably most of the lubes and fluids you'll need.

I wouldn't put any kind of "sticky" lube (grease, etc.) on the slider pins - one, they need to slide smoothly and something thick could hamper that; two, that will just collect and hold dirt and crud. If you want to lube them, I'd suggest a dry graphite lube, although they're probably fine if you just clean them well.

my car is the same way :( . i need to pull the hub to unbolt rotor then repack the bearings or replace them= pound out the race.


need to do both cars soon :fuuuuu:

Hubs didn't have to come off to do the front brakes on my YJ :troll:

I used to just use a C clamp and push the piston back without opening the bleeder valve, making sure to suck some fluid out of the reservoir first.

A Mazda tech told me that pushing the old fluid back without bleeding it out can damage the ABS system. Any truth to that?

I also hear that as well, you can damage the master cylinder? If I do open the bleeder valve to push the piston back in, do I have to bleed the brakes or air after or can I just close the valve again.
Posted via RS Mobile

How much does the silicone grease cost?
Posted via RS Mobile
Posted via RS Mobile