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think it would be better than whats pictured there edit: ah here you go http://www.theautodolly.com/late_mod...oll-around.php except the one i saw looked a bit more advanced (with brakes and a jack function iirc) http://www.theautodolly.com/images/r...around500w.jpg |
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For the winter just throw a cover on it, air your tires UP to like 50-60PSI and throw a battery tender on it with some fuel stabilizer. Easy. Now, I went travelling for a year and did the above but put the car on jacks on the suspension arms (to get the tires off the ground and to compress suspension... droopy shocks can build up dirt/grime and blow out your oil seals).. Started like 2 cranks. And this was a built track car. Ran perfect with no issues. |
all my race cars spend the winter outside, they are covered, but they are exposed to the elements, here is what i go through 1. Drain Radiator and Block (I run water in my cars because i have to at the track) 2. place 1/4 of a cup of pure unmixed AntiFreeze into the block 3. Fill Tires to 2/3rds capacity (if the tire says 60PSI max, ill fill to approx 40psi) 4. Place 10mL of oil down all 8 cyl, place used sparkplugs back into block 5. Pull Battery, check Load and place on charger on shelf 6. ???? 7. Wait till Spring. |
If you're storing outdoors, don't forget to close the air vents and try to keep moisture at bay. I use a desiccant like Dri-Z-Air (WalMart, CT, Lordco) but recently discovered a smaller container at Dollarama called DampTrap for $1.25. Don't forget the trunk. Garden Gnome at Home: A Simple Moisture Solution DRI-Z-AIRŪ DEHUMIDIFIER - MOISTURE ABSORBER - MADE IN THE USA |
I've read to add stabilizer, but I stopped after doing it one year for my carb'd motorcycle. For some reason, it was really hard to start with the stabilizer/gas mix the following spring. I basically had to drain the tank and fill with fresh gas before it would start. I ran fine the following year with just gas in the tank. |
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actually..how did they get it up there in the first place!??? |
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