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Learn me some E46 330ci These have always been a long time favorite car of mine, and I'm in the position now to possibly get one. Aside from the suspension bushing issues, what else should I look out for? What kind of maintenance cost should I expect. I don't plan to do anything to it other than maybe suspension, exhaust and wheels. Are there any years that are better than others? I am specifically looking at an early model 2001/2002 with a manual transmission. http://stancewords.stanceworks.netdn...46-slammed.jpg |
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1. Subframe tear This is a well-documented issue that happened on many early E46s. Basically, the floor in the rear is susceptible to tears where the rear subframe is mounted. If not caught early, you'll have to weld in a new floor. If the damage is limited to a crack, instead of a full tear, you can weld in metal plates to strengthen the floor where the subframe is mounted. Expect 10-12 hours labour plus the cost of metal plates. While BMW supposedly made some changes to the rear floor in 2001+ E46s, I would strongly recommend that you get any E46 on a hoist and inspect the area by the rear subframe for crakcs before you buy one. 2. Cooling system All BMW inline-6s after 1991 use plastic cooling system parts. Unless you have records showing when the system was replaced, you should really replace the whole system when you buy one as preventative maintenance. If you're handy, expect it to take you about 2 hours. You'll need to buy the following: - Belts - Expansion tank - Water pump - Pulley and tensioners - Thermostat - Hoses - Sensors OEM parts from a reputable supplier such as Pelican or BMA will cost you about 300 USD. 3. Crankcase Ventilation Valve If it hasn't been replaced, it will fail. You need small hands, or have the patience of a saint to do it. The parts are only about 100 bucks, but labour is about 3 hours if you know what you're doing. 4. Oil leaks The valve cover gasket will probably leak, and so will the oil filter housing. The gaskets are cheap (~20 bucks), but you'll need to budget at least 2 hours labour each to replace them. 5. Window regulators They will fail eventually. They cost about $140 USD each. 6. Power sunroof clips They will fail too. About $25 bucks each to replace. Mechanically, the E46 is pretty solid as long as you're willing to replace the above, are willing to reinforce the floor by the subframe, and basically rebuild the suspension (bushings, control arms). The M54 is a great engine that is more or less bullet proof. You should probably pick up some BMW diagnostic software as well. As with any used BMW, always budget an extra $2000 for maintenance after you buy the car because chances are, the previous owner probably neglected some things. Good luck. |
Great, just what I was hoping for.. some solid first hand advice. Thanks for that. Most of the mechanical things I can deal with myself but I wouldn't have known about the subframe issue. I'll be sure to have an inspection done on any car I am considering. For the most part everything seems pretty minor (aside from the floor). Less "big" issues than I though there would be. |
A few more things I should add about the E46: - The 330s in 2004-2006 received a 6-speed manual transmission. - Coupes were facelifted in 2004 (received new tailights and a new front fascia) - Not all 330s were created alike. Some early ones still had leatherette and comfort seats. - The Harmon Kardon sound system kind of sucks. - The ZHP was available from 2003 to 2006. Higher redline (6800 vs. 6500), M3 body kit, sport suspension were some of the things included. Fairly rare, but not worth the price difference, IMHO. - All-wheel drive is best avoided. The system will wear out your suspension components more quickly, and the transfer case is just another drive train item to worry about. |
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Big thanks to Tapioca, I'm looking to getting one of these in the next few months too |
If you are not familiar with these cars (especially if you have no previous BMW experience) I highly recommend getting a PPI done at a reputable shop. A $200 PPI can save you from a $10K+ headache. Edit: Just for shits and giggles, I called Brian Jessel Autohaus the other day to inquire about their PPI. 2 hours labour (about $2xx and another 2 hours if you want a leakdown and compression test done.) You can always use the results from the PPI to help negotiate the price with the seller (unless they are absolutely firm on their price, then just walk.) |
One more thing to add: forget mods (unless they're simple, like a ZHP shift knob or shadowline trim) and save your money for maintenance. If you're doing all of your own work - $1500 per year. If you're going to an independent for some or all of your work - $2500-4000 per year. If you're going to the dealer - $5000+ per year. During my ownership of an E46, I did about half of the work myself, purchased parts from the States, and I still spent close to $4000. My car was a one-owner, low-mileage, manual transmission, dealer maintained example also. |
This guy is pretty well known on the forums and provide a lot of information on what maintenance you need to do Just bought your non-M E46? Bare essentials maintenance checklist (part #s included) And to add to Tapioca's comment above, these cars are actually really easy to DIY. Generally I say about 80% of required maintenance can be done on your own Also OT for e46 owners. Any of you guys ever get a "clunk" sound coming from the rear end of the car? Usually happens when shifting from 1st to 2nd, and when letting go of the gas pedal. Dealer said might be just slack from diff since they didn't find cracks/tears on subframe. |
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if you are spending 2.5-5k a year in maintenance on a e46...you got a lemon had a 01 e46 and didn't spend anywhere near those numbers.. heck..i am in a 09 335i with 100K and i spend less than 2k a year in maintenance... |
i would generally say if you're getting a 13 year old car (pretty much many cars, but i'd say more risk with a BMW, Audi, Merc) - you run the risk of many different things going wrong... but that's true for any car, could be perfect, could be a money pit. good luck with the purchase, i feel the same way - great looking car, timeless design... i'm not so sure the next generation has the same timeless design |
I'm selling mine. 2005 - 330 zhp cabriolet. 65,000km. I haven't had any problems with mine, has been the most reliable car I've ever owned. That being said, definitely get a ppi done as repairs can be expensive. Nixon in burnaby are great and much cheaper than a dealership for anything, including ppi's. |
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Depending on the model year, maintenance costs and necessities differ significantly for pre and post face lift E46s. For Tapioca to list about $2000 in maintenance, he's probably throwing out a ball park number to facilitate any minor repairs and particular "while this part's out, I might as well..." type of maintenance. This goes for overdue suspension overhauls, cooling system maintenance, and little electrical gremlins and even stuff like the oil seperator, oil filter housing gasket etc. Later model years, being 04 and 05, require much less maintenance as BMW finally had the opportunity to correct the little things that drive BMW owners crazy. Those two years marked the E46s end of product lifecycle and are the best ones to get. 03 is awesome too! :woot2: |
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Get a zhp brah Posted via RS Mobile |
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1st service performed at Nixon: - Inspection 1 (car needed it at the time I purchased it) - all fluids changed because previous owner neglected to change them - Crankcase vent valve $1200 Cooling system rebuild - Water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, hoses, pulley, tensioners, belts ~$600 in parts from BMA and Pelican Battery - $150, OEM Exide ICBC Comprehensive claim - $300 Sunroof clips - $45 from the stealer Oil and filters - Castrol European Formula, 2 changes - $150, Mann OEM and oil from Canadian Tire on sale New valve cover and gaskets (I paid someone an hour's worth of labour the 2nd time after I found out that the cover was warped) -$430 Auxiliary cooling fan - $400 from BMA Touch up paint - $45 from the stealer All of these repairs are common maintenance items for any BMW that is over 10 years old. For those who are serious about owning a BMW that's over 15 years old, I would recommend you spend some time reading this blog from a 328is owner who has spent a good amount of money maintaining his BMW in top shape: Doug's Domain :: BMW E36 Maintenance Log I reckon that most people who have had BMWs without much maintenance have either had them during the warranty period, or they've driven them and neglected important maintenance, only to pass on that maintenance to the next owner. |
There is keeping a car running, and then there is maintaining it. If your car is as nice as it was when you bought it a couple years down the road, thats maintained. You could easily get by cheaper with the former, it just depends how much you like the car. I could have spent 50 bucks on maintenance after the first 6 months on my M3, and instead I've spent 1k with another 1k in tires coming up, and then throw in a detail in spring for around 200 bucks. Saying 2k in maintenance constitutes a lemon is ridiculous. It depends on the level you maintain your car, and where it happens to be in its life cycle during your ownership. Buy a peake reader for like 180 bucks from turner, and a tool kit and they are pretty straight forward cars to deal with. Being that they are such a popular car, parts are easily available in most cases and every DIY under the sun has been documented. |
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I think the biggest mistake people make with older sports cars is they spend their entire budget on the car, and have nothing left over for maintenance and repairs. They then proceed to every online forum within 100 miles and start preaching to the choir that they got a lemon. Now, i'm NOT saying this is what anyone here is doing/done, i'm just saying this is why some people think they bought a junk pile when in reality it just needed a bit of maintenance they couldn't afford. |
E46 is a terrible candidate for an engine swap as far as I'm aware, the electronics are far more complex than the E36 |
Who said anything about an engine swap? LOL... I want a nice car that I can get in and go drive. Not a swap car that's going to cause nothing but headaches. If I wanted another headache car I'd buy another RX7. |
how's the gas milage? Insurance on these? I'm guessing needs premium? Is it enough power? Considering German cars aren't exactly light Posted via RS Mobile |
^ City: 450-500 kms to a tank Highway: 700+ kms to a tank. Insurance: About 1600 per year with a full discount Fuel: Always 91 Octane. Any BMW with an inline-six after 1991 needs premium fuel. Power: Non-M BMWs have never been about power. However, the 330 is very quick with a great exhaust note. Just appreciate the steering feel, the braking, and driving dynamics. Posted via RS Mobile |
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