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LOL ohhhh come on man no faith, this bike's previously been in a tip over by the last owner, those scuffs ain't from me! You know when I go down again, I can only go like a BAUSS! any predictions this year? Cold tires aint an excuse anymore, thank god for tire warmers & ntec's.
kudos on the gp shift, its grown on me. Can't wait for the QS, pretty stoked! New Bazzaz shift rods are modular and don't differentiate between left/right, push/pull anymore!
Ok this is gonna be along one haha Finally getting around to tackling the installation of my quick turn throttle kit from Euro Racing and Woodcraft clip-ons.
Essentially the aftermarket clip ons give you better length and angle adjustments, a big improvement over stock handle bar positions aka. T-rex position with your hands all angled up front. The longer bars will give me added leverage to muscle the bike around between left/right transitions. It also makes track side repairs exponentially easier as the handle bars are now a 3 piece unit and the bars can be changed out easily.
The quick turn throttle? Well that is exactly what the name say it is. The kit come with an aftermarket throttle tube, throttle cables, throttle housing and 3 different sized cam profiles that reduce the throw by 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn and all the way up to 3/4 turn. This is my second throttle kit and once you ride with one of these its difficult to go back settling for a stock throttle. It drastically reduces the throw of the throttle so you can hit WOT/wide open throttle with much less wrist movement. It's annoying having to grab two handfuls of throttle when coming down the straight aways on track days, and this unit will allow you to have better drive out of corners as you're able to roll on the gas much quicker.
first step, getting under the tank to access the throttle body
Keep diggin' gotta get beneath the air box! Also remember to mark down the order the injector plugs go in.
Finally gained access to the throttle bodies! What a rats nest of hoses and connectors. Only going to touch what I need to!
The cables were actually buried between the frame and throttle body. I was really reluctant on removing the throttle body so I found a way to access the cables through the side from underneath the fairings!
Out with the old!
In with the new cables!
Commenced removing the stock clip on assembly!
Remember to try to keep organized so you don't lose any of your bolts!
then I proceeded to disassemble the clutch side!
Triple clamp, and stock clip ons removed! Took some muscle but the top triple clamp came off, remember to use a steering stem stand. It doesn't stress the forks and makes reinstalling the top triple clamp much easier!
Breaky time. Treated myself to an ice old Grolsch, green just like my machine lol
Stock clip-ons, no
Biereeee yes
Dry fitted the new clip ons, seeing what position was ideal and what lengths I could use without hitting the gas tank at full lock
Brake side
Time to start measuring and drilling for the control instruments!
Using a marker to mark the area I'm going to punch with a hammer before drilling!
Having proper tools make life so much easier lol
Find the appropriate sized drill bit that fits, then make a pilot hole and go from there!
And voila, perfect size.
Remember when installing grips, the one with the larger inner diameter goes on the throttle! These are by far my favorite grips, they are smaller diameter and are super soft. Benefit of the smaller diameter grip is it requires less effort to maintain a strong grip when you're throwing the bike around or hanging off it.
Slowly coming together
Again, more adjustability in length and angle, you can see the difference in length side by side
hmm which cam do I go with?
The midsized maybe?
test fitting with the teflon spacers
Fuck it LOL just going to go with the gold/largest cam profile
and all assembled this is what the completed unit looks like! It's about a 2" throw to WOT at the moment. Decided to jump the gun, as I had the mid sized cam on my 1098 and I got used to it pretty quick on track. This bike being significantly smaller 600 I figured its no biggie
New hand controls as they sit, another step closer to being finished!
These just came in today, tank protectors from R&G Racing. Metal tanks don't get along very well with paved concrete. This is just me being proactive
Installed with double sided tape for now, the kit came with a tube of silicone that I will eventually utilize!
ERMAGHERD look what came in. Part of my suspension package. It's a Penkse 3 way adjustable rear shock with an remote reservoir.
Annnnnd the money shot, so now the rear's all set just waiting for my front suspension components to arrive!
Well, out with the old! Big shout out to my mechanic for his once again solid work. Suspension stuff is out of my comfort zone and today he spared some time to remove this stock shock and throw my new penkse shock on.
In with the new, once again! Decided to raise the rear of the bike by 5mm, essentially what this does is increase the quickness of the turn in and improve the flickability of the bike. It makes the bike dive into turns much more aggressively with minimal effort required.
Initial impressions, I had to get used to riding the bike again. The rear felt noticeably taller, definitely can't flat foot. I think I should use the time from now until May to get used to the new tip in characteristics of the bike. When my DOT race tires go on, its going to raise the rear even a little higher than it already is now. The DOT races have a much more aggressive profile than regular street tires and in turn result in a much taller tire. Why? Increased contact patch when bike is in full lean, and also improved turn in.
As far as the ride goes, it felt a bit firmer on smooth roads, but when going over large bumps the rear of the bike didn't tossed around as much and it just felt planted. I'll get a real impression come May down at the Ridge Motorsports Park, I can't really offer much feedback until then as I won't have an opportunity to really push this bike.
that's a different way to remove the clip ons.
i've always considered it far easier to simply lower the forks down rather than removing the top clamp and then having to find a torque wrench and re-torque the stem nut.
I gotta step up the game and get an Ohlin's installed
Better get it ordered before the season starts!
Quote:
Originally Posted by rk604
WOw didn't know you started a build thread...good stuff James!
Yeah man, I thought you guys knew! I told you I was keeping a journal of the build on the group chat mane
Quote:
Originally Posted by #19
that's a different way to remove the clip ons.
i've always considered it far easier to simply lower the forks down rather than removing the top clamp and then having to find a torque wrench and re-torque the stem nut.
I'd have to see if I can access the pinch bolts for the lower triple tree first, but that actually sounds like a pretty solid way to doing it. For my 1098 it was a pain in the ass to access the lower triple without removing the nose cone!
Plus I was paranoid with not being able to get a good feel of how tight/loose I'm securing the lower pinch bolts and resetting the height of the forks. I'm mostly scared about over tightening the lower pinch bolts as I've heard it can impede on the travel of the internals. Hmm whats your take on it? Could use your 0.02
It's easy and basic, imo far easier than removing the top clamp. sure, you may have to remove the fairing but that shouldn't be a big deal.
i've dropped forks myself countless times and not once had any issues, you'd have to seriously over-torque the pinch bolts to damage the forks -in fact I don't even know if it's even possible to do so. imo.. The pinch bolts just need to be tight, whereas the stem nut should be properly torqued to spec.
As for the height of the forks, it's no biggy. measure the rise of the forks from the top clamp first before you lower them, use a pair of digital vernier calipers for your measurement if you want perfection. it's something you could be doing anyways if you want to change a bike's geometry and handling. For example my street SV has the sag set in the proper range but I found the handling too slow, turn in was too heavy.. so I dropped the front end a bit to speed things up.
Oops, forgot to post these up. New set of rubber for the season came in two weeks ago. Big shout out to Jason over at Dunlop Race Tires Service, they always deliver! Decided to go with D211 GP-A Ntec dot race tires this year instead of a the full blown KR series superbike slicks. These are the new updated AMA spec supersport tire for 2013. They recently changed the profile over from 190/55 to a 190/60 to give the tire a taller profile.
Can't wait to try these out in May , I'm giddy just thinking about it. Like slicks I'll have to run these with warmers.
Compounds are:
7455 Medium Front
8477 Medium+ Rear
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any predictions this year? Cold tires aint an excuse anymore, thank god for tire warmers & ntec's.
LOL just going to go with the gold/largest cam profile
ERMAGHERD look what came in. Part of my suspension package. It's a Penkse 3 way adjustable rear shock with an remote reservoir. 
I thought you guys knew! I told you I was keeping a journal of the build on the group chat mane 
Could use your 0.02
, I'm giddy just thinking about it. Like slicks I'll have to run these with warmers. 
