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-   -   Need R12 A/C (https://www.revscene.net/forums/696737-need-r12-c.html)

SpuGen 07-15-2014 05:58 PM

Need R12 A/C
 
Don't want any nagging about it being "illegal" or hippie environment bullshit.
It's colder, and it's awesome.

Whose got R12?
A/C needs a charge.

Last resort before going with the R12A bullshit.

godwin 07-15-2014 06:08 PM

Marine West? any marine supply stores. or WA.. stop by harbor freight to get a pump and scale

hk20000 07-16-2014 12:31 AM

nothing wrong with R12A works like a charm. Walmart in USA have R12 all day erryday.

skylinergtr 07-21-2014 11:14 PM

anyone use redtek 12a in the can? I wanted to try it on my Benz when I get it going...

godwin 07-21-2014 11:31 PM

Best value is to get the kit, but you should use a few other of their products first. Honestly it ends up about the same getting a professional diagnostic ~$200? to purchase the whole thing.
If you DIY and at home, I suggest you do it in the wide open and in the evening when everything is cooler. The content is mainly alkane, it is flammable, try to avoid having fun with it in an enclosed space, they are heavier than air, so it will sink to the bottom. I would also suggest doing 2-3 cars at one time as the oil etc can be spread between cars.

Their product listing:

0. Do a visual test of your AC components, make sure there are no obvious cracks and the AC clutch etc are working and spinning free. The coolant are not cheap, so you mind as well spend the time make sure that they won't leak at the first try. (assemble everything I suggest get Dyecharge, Oilcharge and the kit with the gauge, UV light from eBay).

1. Use the gauge from the kit to see if there are any pressure, if there are you can get it evacuated to an empty propane tank.
2. Use Dyecharge first, then run a while and check for leaks. (go for a drive and look for signs of leaks afterwards)
3. If no leaks, use Dry12 to get rid of the moisture (Using the gauge from the kit).
4. add Oil Charge. Remember the lubricant for the AC is in the same loop as the refrigerant. Fill up the rest with the refrigerant from their kit. The oil is important especially if the AC hasn't running for a while.
5. After using it for a while, check the hoses again for bulges etc. Also check the pressure often, as the compounds are smaller than CFC and prone to leak.

Also helps to get the tools from harbor freight and an empty propane tank and a cheap scale if you want to collect left over refrigerant. I don't find it too difficult, it is just another cooling loop just like your radiator (if you have the acumen / experience to do that to your own car, then it is not that hard). It just uses higher pressure and unique connectors.

Other brands like Duracool is basically the same compounds.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skylinergtr (Post 8506107)
anyone use redtek 12a in the can? I wanted to try it on my Benz when I get it going...



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