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-   -   Need help/advice: 98 Civic P1381 code and rear defroster... (https://www.revscene.net/forums/706391-need-help-advice-98-civic-p1381-code-rear-defroster.html)

monty007 11-21-2015 08:43 AM

Need help/advice: 98 Civic P1381 code and rear defroster...
 
Hi all,

I picked up a 98 EK hatch with the D16Y7 for a daily beater. I'm having problems with the Cylinder Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption code. I have reset the code twice, replaced the battery and put a new distributor on as well. I'm going to try a new ground cable this weekend. Car drives sluggish but revs (I think) all the way up - I don't have a tach in this car.

The other problem I have is the rear defroster. I have checked the fuses - all good. Is there a bigger relay that I need to check? I'm also going to use the volt meter and check for continuity on the grid and also make sure the power is making it to the back at the connections.

Also, I'm thinking of putting a turbo on the car. I was wondering if anyone had a kit kicking around that they are not using. I have built several turbo hondas in the past and look forward to having another one to tinker with. Sadly I sold all my fab tools so if there is a decent kit kicking around, please let me know.

Thanks!

Puck Luck 11-23-2015 12:23 AM

When you turn on the rear defr. If you can hear a click, then likely the relay is ok. You can use the volt meter and see you're getting battery voltage from the 2 end terminals on the rear windshield.
Or test from one end terminal and touch each line about 1/2 or 2/3 across, and you should see 8 or 9 volts roughly. An obvious voltage drop anyways.

A common place for the wires to break is at the top of the hatch where the wires bend back and forth. You'll have to slide the rubber boot back to have a look

monty007 11-23-2015 08:58 AM

Thanks Puck Luck!! I'll check that out tonight!

I put in all new ground wires and added a few extra throughout the engine bay - light still came on. I called Lordco and they sell the CYP sensor separately - I might try that.

Other thing I was thinking about if there is corrosion on the ECU terminals. I know that older honda's are prone to getting water in through the heater fan. I'm going to check that next because the ECU is on the far right in the passenger foot well.

DSM 99 11-23-2015 11:43 AM

alternator diode failure ? try resting the code unpluging your alternator and starting the car to see if the CEL comes back. if it doesnt check grounds from your TDC sensor

monty007 11-23-2015 03:43 PM

Thanks DSM 99 - I'll check try it tonight and report back.

Puck Luck 11-23-2015 10:39 PM

Really can't see the alternator diode circuit being anyway related to the cyl sensor. It's just a simple 2 wire circuit between disturber and ecu. Ecu and ecu terminal problems aren't all that common. More than likely the sensor itself.

Trying hard to remember...but i'm thinking all the sensors in the distributer ground through the ecm. One of the main grounds for the ecm is on the thermostat housing. But if that ground was an issue, i think you'd see more engine light problems related to the output side of things...ie: injector, eacv valve


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