Siezed caliper - rebuildable?
 

So when I got home from the ski hill today there was a horrible smell so I took a look around. Sure enough steam was pouring off one of the rear calipers and the rotor looks like it's gotten very hot. I know I'll need to replace the pads and rotor, but can the caliper be rebuilt with a new piston(s) or should I just toast it and replace it completely and rebuild the other side (I assume it can't be far behind)?

I think the short answer is yes, assuming you tackle the job yourself. You should be able to buy a caliper rebuild kit.

If you take it to the shop, they probably would not, and likely just sell you a rebuilt caliper. I think fliptuner can chime in on this. He's probably the last person on this planet to even do these things. :D

:tears:

Price out the cost of a new/rebuilt unit first. Many times it's cheaper than your time and trouble to rebuild it yourself. If not, usually rebuild kits are just seals and dust boots. It's just a matter of disassembling, cleaning and putting it back together.

Personally I would just replace. It's not really worth to rebuild it but it depends on what car you drive I guess. Currently waiting on my front calipers for my x5. I could rebuild them but you'll have to sand the rust off and replace seals which I could only find from the UK or too expensive.
The rebuild kit I found was like 60/caliper
I found used calipers from California for $30 ea so I took that route. I figured since its from Cali it's unlikely they'll have any rust so they should be ok plus they come with a year warranty. Literally just unplug hose put replacement in and bleed lines.

What car is it?

A new seal kit, piston, slide pins and boots is ~$20, a reman'd one is $90 from Rock Auto. $55 of that is the core but I assume return shipping kills most of the incentive to send it back.

The other question is whether I should do all of them or just the one. Is it likely that the others will follow, or is it more of a randomly occurring event over time? It's on my 2007 Grand Cherokee with ~205k on it.

double check that it isn't just a frozen ebrake cable.

as the cables get older and wear they can get moisture inside the sheath. This can freeze. Dropping the ebrake handle down might not actually release the brake in that case.

personally, in my winter beaters I try not to set the ebrake if I can avoid it.

I always do both sides when doing a caliper. As they get older they move differently than new ones. Quite often if you replace one side and not the other, one side will brake a lot harder than the other as the caliper can move easier.

I would so both as well simply because the other side may fail shortly after. Have you checked Lordco for reman calipers? Easier to return a core that way.

I'll check the ebrake, the disc part of the rotor looked like it had gotten hot but that could just be from an hour of heat transfer from the drum part. I normally don't even bother calling the local parts shops, for the prices they want I could get it express shipped from Rock Auto and still save money. And get a higher end part.

I personally went with rebuild it back with good quality oem seals and good quality oem grease instead of inferior Chinese components in what comes in all remaned parts

It's probrably not the cheapest or convenient solution.

What do you guys think about Dorman rear caliper rebuild kit for Integras? Ok quality?

Oem
The rest is shit.

I agree with most of the posts above. Stick with OEM parts.

If I can add my two cents, I suggest you attempt this yourself (if you have the tools and have some mechanical knowledge). You will be surprised at how easy it is to rebuild calipers and change the seals. Just do some research before starting the job.

I am a big advocate for doing work on your own car. You will learn loads and driving your car afterwards will leave you with an amazing sense of satisfaction.

Making mistakes sucks and sometimes costs money, but you will learn so much from the experience.