Those curbs... just jump out at you when you least expect

I think I'll stick to cruiser bikes reading these stories lol

Just don't do what I did.

Crash a few blocks from Richmond Hospital and directly ride my bike all the way home to East Van lol

I've crashed carbon - it can take a LOT to break them.

My bike flipping at 30kmh and sending itself about 5 meters down concrete/metal bridge (think lions gate bike path) had a wee scratch on it; ultrasonic scan came back clean.

If you want to be super cautious, Giant USA offers 2 year crash warranty.

ResidentSleeper:ifyouknow::sweetjesus:

It's crazy what you can get for gear on entry level bikes these days.

I bought a Kona Fire Mountain back in the ~2000/01, it was a pretty cheap & basic hardtail, chromoly frame, V-brakes, crappy elastomer RST shocks, ~$600-700 at the time (Steveston cycles). I sold it to my buddy before I moved to the island.

Then ~2010 I bought another Fire Mountain, this time aluminum frame, full hydraulic shocks, hydraulic disc brakes, better derailleurs, better tires for about $800. I know it's a pretty entry-level bike as far as mountain bikes are concerned, but 10 years you get 10 times the value for like only $100 more

bike tech trickles down really well.
i think 8, 9, and 10 speed shimano road groupsets have been unchanged in a very long time now because they're so good already for their price points. meanwhile the higher end groupsets have all gone electronic and their price keeps soaring

My hybrid is riding on 700C 35MM tires.

I feel like I'd be more efficient on a skinnier tires here as I ride on the road 99% of the time.

Anyone have any suggestions on some tires I can put onto my current rims, or would I also need to purchase a new rim as well?

Thinking of moving to 28 or 30mm tires.

Conti GP5000 is the Pilot Super Sport/4S of bicycle tires.
Great puncture resistance, top 5 in rolling resistance, great longevity.
You'll reduce drag by 20W+ in power from switching to these.... only a couple watt diff between width. I would grab the widest one they offer.

Can also consider Panaracer Gravelking SS if you ride gravle, but the soft compound gets cut up easily & punctures will increase later in their lifetime.

Skinnier tire will help, but try bumping up the pressure. With a totally rigid tire, technically only one point touches the ground. At the pressures road bike tires are at (100+ psi), really a skinnier tire is better due to aerodynamics that really come in 30-+km/h. It’s the contact patch that matters, and higher pressure is the biggest factor.

Not sure if your tire is designed for 30psi or higher, but try the higher end of its range before going down a size. Also something with less aggressive tread would help if you end up trying something new.

I like the Conti GP5000s as well. Nice, softer compound and generally comfortable in comparison to the Michelin tires I had been running for a long time. The Michelin tires I ran were good for road feel and feedback, but was very fatiguing. And ditto to tire pressure. I usually run between 100 - 120psi, but often thought to myself, can I run lower at around 90? Never did that. :p

I generally run mine at 85 to improve bike handling & traction.
I’d lose tops a couple watts of rolling resistance

This is great advice.

Usually I'd just fill my tires before each ride up to around 55-60 PSI (max for my tires).

I'd have to do this after every ride or two, as they'd lose some pressure.

Looks like I'll throw on some Conti's this spring then, I assume they can be ridden on some gravel as well?

The contis are pretty race focused tire. The gravelkings will be more suited to commuting. Saying that, there are likely better tires out there than listed for commuting too, also a lot cheaper. You don’t need a high end tire. Something a little heavier, thicker more puncture resistant will be available. A road oriented tire, with some sort of tread. Your not going to notice an improvement on a high end road tire unless your really pushing it.

gp5000s are basically the same tire that pros use in races.
they are fast and smooth but i wouldnt agree that they never puncture, i've had plenty on the gp4000s and some on the gp5000s too. if you want something that is supple then that's usually the tradeoff.

isn't optimal tire psi dependent on the rider's weight?

someone weighing 150lb does not need to be running over 100 PSI, it would be super bumpy

So if I'm doing some light gravel trails here and there the Conti's wouldn't be a good option then?

So GravelKing or Conti Grand Prix 4-Seasons perhaps?

i think 35mm is actually a nice width if you're doing road and gravel. if you go too skinny then gravel kinda sucks. higher pressures + worse traction are not too fun on gravel, especially if it's loose.

my main concern of carbon frames is their longevity. i agree it takes a lot to break in one instance, but i feel cracks developing over time is a genuine concern.

How do you guys transport your bikes? Seems like a b to get a roof rack, or tow hitch rack. Unless you buy a wagon and fold everything down to store it inside. You can't really go shopping or stop anywhere without worrying getting your bike stolen.

Locking a bike anywhere is a big no no if it’s worth anything of value. When I do it, I lock it to my hitch, and will back right up to a tree, or a wall to make it almost impossible to take, either way I don’t leave it long.

My biggest concern with the racier tires is the puncture resistance if you hit that gravel trail. I’ve certainly done it, and been fine but if you’re commuting you want it to be reliable. The 4 season tire you listed would be fine.

A lighter ride can get away with lower pressure. In the grand scheme of things higher pressure = more risk of punctures, less risk of pinch flats and less comfortable and possibly less rolling resistance.

I tried to look into whether it is available in Canada, but couldn't find info.

Carbon breaking is funny. Some people can send it on their mountain bikes or get into an accident and the bike's fine. Others can drop it and it can crack.

Giant and Trek have some models that are incompatible with indoor trainers for example, as the sideways pressure on the frame can crack it. Or over torquing bolts (got to use a good torque wrench). I picked up some carbon frames and they felt wonderful, light and seemed strong, but at this point I am worried I am going to take a bad hit and get denied warranty or have to replace the frame.

But in weight, general strength, and ride quality, it trumps aluminum left, right and center. I just know unless I was rich as hell, I can't enjoy something I don't trust the ability to use without worry.

Not geared towards you as a personal attack, but you would likely die and succumb to your injuries or live with life long injuries in a bad hit as opposed to worrying about a carbon frame cracking and being denied warranty.

Oh I wholeheartedly agree. My bigger concern is the freak carbon break accidents - over tightening by mistake, falling at the wrong angle, or being mounted slightly wrong on a bike stand or a bike rack or something. There are many, many people who have zero issues with carbon, and it rides beautifully.

And there are others who have catastrophic or sudden breaks and are adamant nothing out of the ordinary happened. I think freak accidents happen.

I may get a new carbon frame in the future. For now, I picked up this beauty in alloy, full Shimano 105.

https://i.imgur.com/B0OflR5.jpg