[SumAznGuy]

Let's start bottom up.
Typically, ice hockey skates are 1 size smaller than your street shoes, but with CCM's they tend to be 1 1/2 size smaller than your street shoes.
When you wear the skates to test fit them, tie them up tight and walk around the store for five minutes. Give them time to loosen up a bit.
Depending on the brand/model, some boots have a higher arch than others. If you have wide feet, ask to try on the wider boot version of the skates.
When you are walking around, if your heels move around in the boot, that is a bad thing. If your toes touch the tips of the boot, that too is bad.
Remember, do not look at price only for skates (ie. buying a size too big or a size too small because they are on sale)

Shin pads are measured in inches. Some of the common sizes are 14 inchs and longer, and different models will be wider/narrower than others. The proper length for you will depend on you whether you slide the skate tongue under the shin pad, or roll them down and wear the shin pads just over the skates.

Pants are similar to regular pants. You have small, med, lge, and xlge waist. Different brands/models offer different amounts of protection for different players.

Elbow pads come in med, lge etc... Different models/brands offer different amounts of protection. Some are the basic ones that only cover the elbow with foam padding and might have some hard plastic like roller blade elbow pads. Some of the higher end pads are long and cover part of the arm and forearm, and have more hard plastic. The elbow pads protect the parts of the arm that the shoulder pads and gloves do not cover.

Shoulder pads vary in model/brands again. As a forward, you might want something that gives you more flexability. As a D-man, you want something that is a little longer and has a bit more padding as you will be blocking more pucks than a forward. Some models look like foot ball pads or those shoulder pads minus the spikes from the Legion of Doom back in the 90's. Do not mistaken football shoulder pads for hockey shoulder pads and the padding is in different areas.

Gloves range in different sizes and lengths. Forwards like to use shorter cuffed gloves to allow better mobility to stick handle. D-men use gloves with longer cuffs for more protection. Gloves should be a little loose on your hands.

Sticks come in different lengths/sizes/stiffness. There are junior sized sticks (for kids) intermediate (for younger teens) and senior sizes (for adults) with varying stiffness. All sticks can be cut or have some length added via butt-ends. When picking out the right stiffness, think of a bow. The more you can flex it, the more "snap" you get out of it and the more power there is in the shot. How much bend you get into the stick has to do with your body mass. Also, how tall you are will affect the amount of bend you can get into the stick based on leverage. Also, forwards tend to use rounded blades where as d-men use blades that are more square.
Depending on your style, you need to find out which lie/curve you like.
Player sticks usually are between 4-8 for lie. 4 means you need to play more like Gretzkey where you play with your waist bent. 8 means you play more upright.
Different players use different types of curves. So with the same model of stick, you have different players names stamped on the stick. ie Naslund. Koivu, Jagr, iginla etc. Some have more curve, some have more twist in the blade, etc. As a beginner, I would recommend something with a little less curve and not so agressive lie. Imagine using a #4 lie but you play pretty much standing up. Expect the puck to go under the heel of your stick.

Jersery's are cut a little bigger, but you need to try them on with your shoulder pads on. You want the jersey to be a little bigger so you have more mobility. I am an lge/XL, but I wear an XL jersey without should pads and at times I find different brands to be a little on the tight side.

[RayBot]

well....thats all covered.

Nothing to discuss i guess.

Did u just come from equipment shopping?

[HonestTea]

Great write up!

Thanks!

[SumAznGuy]

well....thats all covered.

Nothing to discuss i guess.

Did u just come from equipment shopping?

Pretty much. :thumbsup:

I spent over $600 on new gear to replace some stuff that was almost 15 years old. :thumbsup:
Things I still need include a new visor, shoulder pads (should I decide to wear them) and another stick. I've been going through a OPS every 4 months.

[RayBot]

this is a good page for info....courtesy of my favorite place to go for gear:
http://www.thehockeyshop.com/SizingTips.htm#PlayerPants

[RayBot]

Pretty much. :thumbsup:

I spent over $600 on new gear to replace some stuff that was almost 15 years old. :thumbsup:
Things I still need include a new visor, shoulder pads (should I decide to wear them) and another stick. I've been going through a OPS every 4 months.

every 4 months....???

you a heavy guy??

[SumAznGuy]

every 4 months....???

you a heavy guy??

Gained quite a bit of weight in the last few years.
Started to play hockey again and will start going to the gym again. Damn long work hours make it hard to get motivated to go work out. That's my excuse and I am sticking to it.

[beetea]

toes touching the front isn't necessarily a bad thing.
just grazing when knees bent is ideally the perfect fit.

other than that go on comfort with everything.

[AzNightmare]

Thanks a lot for the write up. I'm so pumped right now.

[bartone]

any suggestions for goalie gear?
thanks

[absolutZERO]

Just wanted to add a few small things (although that's tough cuz SumAznGuy's pretty damn thorough ;D)...

Skates
If you're worried about how much extra space you have in your skate, do the normal footwear fitting routine: While sitting down with the laces loose, slide your foot forward into the skate as much as possible. If there's excess space above your foot and/or your toes can curl right up the inside of the skate, you might have a skate that's too wide and/or too large. If it's feeling comfortable, see how much space you have between your heel and the boot. Anything more than a finger's width could be trouble (although experienced players play with looser or tighter skates based on what they've gotten used to or prefer).
Don't be in a rush to buy skates. Once you've got them on and laced up, stand up and walk around and stay on your feet for 5-10 minutes and see if they start to hurt or if you begin to notice excess wiggle.

Shins and Pants
Okay, these two should be fitted together if you're buying equipment for the first time. Even better if you fit them with skates.
Size shin pads when you're leg is straight and when your knee is bent nearly 90 degrees. Use the centre of the cup of the knee on the shin pad as an alignment point against your own knee.
Different cuts of pants obviously provide different protection at the expense of mobility. Look for good tailbone protection and padding around the waist if you're very concerned about safety. Pants that are too long may impede your skating, while pants that are too short will expose the area directly above your knee. With your pants on, try doing knee raises to see how much the pant legs slide, and do some hip rotations or try to touch your toes to see if the waist padding is overkill.

[absolutZERO]

any suggestions for goalie gear?
thanks

Fitting or brand? There's a lot of great goalie gear available these days, especially if you order online (although I don't recommend that if you're sizing up for the first time), and for a pretty decent range of prices. If I had money to burn, I'd buy new equipment right now just for the hell of it, although I can't justify that as my old equipment is perfectly fine lol.

Skates
Buy goalie skates. Don't play goal on ice with player skates. Goalie skates are built quite differently from player skates. They are a bit broader, have an external cowl for added protection, have a lower boot cut for greater ankle movement, and have a lower and longer chassis and blade with a different profile than a player's blade. Try your shoe size or a size smaller and go from there; slide your foot forward all the way into the skate until your toes just graze the front, and see how much space you have between your heel and the skate... look for a finger's width.

Goal Pads
Style (fly, profly, etc --well I guess everybody's profly these days) and brand aside, fit these goal pads with your skates if possible. There are two main measurements: The size/length and the width. The width will usually be 11 or 12 inches (I think almost all adult pads are usually 12"), and the sizes for adults come in 32"+.
There are a bunch of different methods for fitting goal pads if you can't actually physically be there to strap them on. Some manufacturers/shops have size charts that correspond to the measurement between your ankle and the centre of your knee. Another method is to measure the distance from your toes to your ankle, then from your ankle to your knee along your shin, then from your knee to a third of the way up your thigh. Regardless, nothing beats trying them on!
The rule of thumb would be to ensure proper knee cap placement. The centre of your knee cap should fit into the centre of the knee cradle/roll on the inside of the pad. The easiest way to get initial alignment is to fit the pads while kneeling down into them, and then see how much they move down when you get up. If the knee fitment is good and the shin length is okay, then ensure that the toe of the pad doesn't stick out beyond the toe of your skate. Finally check to make sure the top of the pad doesn't hinder your leg movement. Remember that, due to the width of the pads, you'll be moving with your legs a fair bit apart, so if the pads stick up too far, you'll have trouble skating and butterflying. I've heard 4" as a limit to how far the pad should stick up above the knee, but it also depends on your tall you are and your proportions.

If you have no clue on how to strap on goalie pads, any good hockey shop will be able to help you, or you can search online, although it's quite simple. Lay the pad flat and exterior face down in front of you; the side roll on the face of the pad should be on the outside. Line up the toe guard of the pad with the toe of your skate blade and criss-cross the laces through your skate chassis and tie it up on top of your skate (if you have toe straps, just buckle on the strap through the first gap in your chassis). Lift the pad up onto your leg, do up any knee cradle straps, and start buckling on the rest of your straps. Leave your top two straps loose and rely on the straps around your knee to hold the pad in place. The straps on the bottom bend of your pads usually go through the skate chassis under your heel.

Pants
Like the skates, buy goalie pants if you're serious about playing goal. They look similar but are quite a bit different. The cut is lower on the top (especially in the front), so there is less waist protection but better hip padding. Good pants will also have good kidney protection around the sides and back. You'll notice that the thigh padding is thicker/harder and that the legs are a bit more flexible because there is thinner padding around the groin to accommodate the larger goalie jock/pelvic protector (although some goalie pants have segmented padding around the groin to provide both protection and mobility). Goalie pants also often have slits in on the rear of the pant legs for better movement.
Fit them with the pads if possible to see how much the pants and pads ride on each other. Too much interference will really get annoying and hinder your movement. Bend your knees and rotate your waist to see how much freedom you have. Fitting your chest protector with your pants can also be handy to see how much overlap you get around the hips. Bigger, wider pants/thighs will close up the hole between your legs, but it could also slow your skating down.

Chest Protector
Man, I'm getting tired writing this. ;P Okay, chest, shoulder and arm protector... the piece that makes you look big and buff. Like pants, these go S-M-L-XL-etc. and are usually based on a chest measurement. I think your average Joe under 6'0" will probably take a Medium, but if you're skinny, you're probably looking at a Small.
Big things here are arm length, chest fitment, and freedom of movement. Best way, of course, is to try it on... Make sure that, when you move your arms (try rotating your arms and going over your head), none of the padding digs into your neck or anywhere else. If the chest portion is billowing away from your body, you might need to go down a size. With the wrist/forearm cuffs tightened, move your arms around and make sure the arm guards don't slide around too much. Depending on how comfortable you are, slight overlap between the bottom of your chest protector and the top of your pants may or may not matter to you (some chest protectors have an extra flap that is intended to overlap your abdomen where your pants lace up, but a bit of overlap in any case is normal).

Catcher and Blocker
Don't be a hero and grab the biggest gloves you can find. Catchers and blockers should fit relatively loosely (like loose work gloves, I guess), but not so loose that they're dangling at the ends of your arms. If you tighten up all the straps and can fling the gloves off with ease, they're too big. The cuffs should overlap the padding on your arms a bit, probably one or two inches depending on your much the cuffs flare (this will determine how much mobility you have).
The catch here is that most gloves only come in Jr. or Sr. sizes... but different models and brands fit differently, so you'll have to try them on. Don't skimp on fitting the gloves: position your arms and body like you would while in your ready stance or while making a save and mimic the wrist and arm motions you make while playing to see how comfortable the gloves are. Better yet, grab a stick off the wall and see how it feels too.

Goalie Mask
Ahh everybody's favourite piece of equipment. Like headgear for almost any sport, sizing a goalie mask is done by measuring the circumference of your head, but each manufacturer usually has a different correlation chart, so either check online or ask your hockey shop to do the measurements. Otherwise, just try the masks on and see which on gets you the best fit. When adjusted, it should be snug with your chin in the chin guard and your forehead against the edge of the helmet (usually around eyebrow height, although I've seen guys play with the edge of the mask right around their eyes). If you shake your head and the mask rattles and bounces a lot, then it's too lose. Conversely, it shouldn't be so tight that it's uncomfortably squeezing your head.
If you plan to play in a league that has certain safety regulations, look for a CSA+HECC approved helmet, and avoid cat eye cages (unless you're certain your league allows them).
For added safety, you can attach a throat guard to your mask. These guards are usually curved pieces of clear plastic that dangle from cords tied to the mask. Depending on the length of the beak on your mask and how paranoid you are (or if you play with guys that load up from inside the hash marks all the time), you may find this a good safety investment.

Goalie Stick
Seems like the base price of goalie sticks keeps on rising, but admittedly they're of good quality and better materials these days, making them lighter and funner to play with. You'll be concerned mainly with the length of the paddle and blade, and the lie (ignoring brand and material). Wiki tells me that goalie sticks usually have a lie from 11-15 (compared to 5 = 135deg for a player stick), but honestly I've always just tried them out in the store to see what was comfortable. In your ready stance the blade should be positioned in front of your five-hole (obviously ;D) flat on the ice (give or take how much you like to angle your stick), and the paddle should be of the right length to suit your blocker hand position. (This is all assuming you have a good and proper stance, which is a key to getting the right stick.)

---

Okay, that's all I can think of at the moment... There are other things, like a goalie jock (bigger and has pelvic protection compared to normal), neck guard (different cut in the front to allow for better neck rotation, provides overlap chest protection, depends a lot on the model/brand), and goalie cut jersey (flared arms, wider).

As for brands, I'll let better informed people comment as I haven't bought any major gear for a long time. The usual suspects are Itech, RBK, Vaughn, TPS, NikeBauer, etc., although I honestly don't know who makes what for whom any more.

HTH.

[bartone]

^ wow ur my hero, Thanks!

[SumAznGuy]

Goalie MaskIf you plan to play in a league that has certain safety regulations, look for a CSA+HECC approved helmet, and avoid cat eye cages (unless you're certain your league allows them).
For added safety, you can attach a throat guard to your mask. These guards are usually curved pieces of clear plastic that dangle from cords tied to the mask. Depending on the length of the beak on your mask and how paranoid you are (or if you play with guys that load up from inside the hash marks all the time), you may find this a good safety investment.

For those that don't know, he is talking about the cages with the big openings around the eye's like the ones that the pro's use. Most leagues/minor hockey do not allow it, but I do believe some other leagues do.
The throat guard is the clear plastic that you see goalies like Patrick Roy use to have. They are usually tied on with some skate lace.

The other option is getting a helmet with a goalie cage. This would be a bit cheaper but slightly heavier than getting a mask.

[AzNightmare]

I'm thinking eventually if I buy the whole set, I'm forced to buy it all in one place if that's the only way I can wear all the gear at once to get a good feel. Or is that true?

I can't really tell whether for example pants and shin and body and elow guards will all fit together unless I try them all on at a store all at once. But I don't know, is it common for someone to go put on the whole hockey gear when they are hockey shopping? I've never seen a guy walking around sportchek with the full gear on. Maybe I'm just self conscious.

Anyway, I tried on some CCM skates. They weren't bad. The sales guy tried to tell me to get $200-250 ones because they had better ankle support and that skates are the one thing you can't cheap out on. I guess he does have a point, but I still rather stick to my $100 budget.

How tight are your feet supposed to be pressed together from the side? I wear size 9 shoes, and size 8 skates feel right length wise, but width wise, I like size 9 skates better. These are the 8D and 9D wider feet CCM's I'm trying on.


I have a question about sticks. Because I read about how they can be curved at the heel or at the toe. Where curve at the heel is more for defencemen and toe is more for forwards. When I look down the shaft on some sticks, I see some are just curved, while some are curved with a bit of twist (to help lift the puck on shots?) What is the difference between those blades and how can I tell whether a blade is heel curved or toe curved?

[absolutZERO]

For those that don't know, he is talking about the cages with the big openings around the eye's like the ones that the pro's use. Most leagues/minor hockey do not allow it, but I do believe some other leagues do.
The throat guard is the clear plastic that you see goalies like Patrick Roy use to have. They are usually tied on with some skate lace.

The other option is getting a helmet with a goalie cage. This would be a bit cheaper but slightly heavier than getting a mask.

Good point about the helmet+cage combo! Ala Hasek, plus it gives a guy an excuse to try to find one of those old opaque plastic throat guards that sit flat on the collarbone/chest haha. ;D

[SumAznGuy]

For CCM/RBK skates, D is the standard width. E is the "wide" width. When I wear CCM skates, after lacing them up tight, the D is a little tight around my foot. I found the "E" skates to be perfect.
BAuer/Nike uses the "EE" designation for their wide boots.

As for gear, I've never worn everything at the same time to test fit them. That being said, that is me so who knows.

What I recommend is go to Sport Chek/Sport Mart and try on the gear yourself. This way you don't feem obliged to buy it from them.

Starting with skates, the pricer skates will give you better ankle support especially if you are new or a power skater. But for your first pair of skates, I say go with whatever you can afford and feels good on your feet.
And since you have the skates on, try on some shin pads. Try the shin pads with the tongue slipped up under the shin pads, and try it with the tongue pulled down under the bottom of the shin pads. This will give you a good idea of what length shin pad you need. Since you are 5'7", assuming your legs are normal length, try some 15 inch shin pads to start.

When you go to try on pants, just wear them over some sweat pants or track pants and then walk around in them. See how well you can move around in them and how the padding is. Some of the pants do not offer a lot of padding around the crotch/inner thigh area but have great mobilty. Some pants have zero padding on the back of the leg, but that area is generally not important as you should not be blocking shots with that area. Tailbone/kidney area padding is important. With the pants on, stand up and see how far down the legs the pants go. Remember, if the pants are too short, you have no protection from the top of the shin pads to the bottom of the pants. If the pants are too long, that will interfer with your skating.

[Noir]

Anyway, I tried on some CCM skates. They weren't bad. The sales guy tried to tell me to get $200-250 ones because they had better ankle support and that skates are the one thing you can't cheap out on. I guess he does have a point, but I still rather stick to my $100 budget.

Of course its better. Higher price = Higher performance. However, considering you're new to the sport, you're type of hockey nowhere even near requires performance. Hell, unless your on the top divisions, even league players don't buy in onto the whole "expensive skates" thing.

And trust me, it may take a year or 2 before you can safely say you're too good for your skates. :)


I have a question about sticks. Because I read about how they can be curved at the heel or at the toe. Where curve at the heel is more for defencemen and toe is more for forwards. When I look down the shaft on some sticks, I see some are just curved, while some are curved with a bit of twist (to help lift the puck on shots?) What is the difference between those blades and how can I tell whether a blade is heel curved or toe curved?

Good question. Blades that flare/twist out at the toe end are there to help ease in elevating the puck in their shots. Useful for people like centers, some wingers who like to stay close in the net and need to elevate their wristers as quickly as possibly as they don't have the time/space to wind up their shots in addition to flicking their wrists to attain the elevation.

However, since pucks just get airtime easily, you will need good shot control when shooting mid-range and further, or else you're shooting may go wild.

[jello24]

pretty good guide but something's always bothered me about sticks... are there any major differences (other than length) between junior/intermediate and senior sticks? like are junior/intermediate more flexy than senior?

ive been using senior sticks all my life and being 5'5 i have to chop off quite a bit to get the length right. but last time i went to the hockey shop and randomly tried out a junior stick i found out it was the perfect length for my height without chopping. and since im pretty sure chopping a composite is gonna make it too hard to flex, im thinking of getting an inherently shorter stick this time around.

any tips?

[SumAznGuy]

Yes. Jr sticks typically have shorter blades and the diameter of the shaft is smaller for smaller hands. Flex is lower because of the lower weight/height.
Intermediate sticks are realitively new, and they are the in between of Jr. and Sr. sticks. Flex wise, they are stiffer than Jr's and softer than Sr. sticks.
I believe intermediate sticks have the same blades as Sr. sticks.

[jello24]

shorter blades...? damn guess im sticking to cutting seniors then...

[m3thods]

Keep in mind that when you cut sticks, the flex goes UP. If you're accustomed to a certain flex but are short like me you might have to go lower in flex and cut away.

A little off topic, but if you're new to the sport I'd suggest a whippier stick (ie 75-80 flex). It'll help you get the puck released with less effort until you feel that it takes too long to load. That's when you move up. I see too many beginners with pro flex 102 sticks that struggle like crazy trying to shoot the puck properly.

[AzNightmare]

Okay, so I plan to be a forward, so what kind of stick would you guys recommend for someone that's a new at ice hockey?

Wood, something with 75-80 flex, and a toe curve (with no twist) with a rounded toe?

So how do I tell the difference between a heel curver and toe curve?

I'm most likely gonna at least get minimal equipment today (thurs) so I can go stick and puck on this friday. (my only day off)

[m3thods]

Okay, so I plan to be a forward, so what kind of stick would you guys recommend for someone that's a new at ice hockey?

Wood, something with 75-80 flex, and a toe curve (with no twist) with a rounded toe?

So how do I tell the difference between a heel curver and toe curve?


It's tough to find a flexy wood stick unless you go intermediate. What I would suggest is an Easton S5 Shaft 80Flex (30$ at Sport Chek) and get a blade for 50% off (~50 total). You'd get a stick that's lighter than a wood stick, and more consistent in terms of flex. And IMO its better than most cheap woods, and cheap OPS which are junk.

As for the curves, a toe curve basically curls at the end of the blade. Heel Curves start to curve almost at the heel. Mid are in the middle. I don't have examples for all, but a Sakic/Naslund is a mid, where a P91(malkin)/Thornton is a heel. Toes are tough to find actually because they aren't really beginner curves.

I'd suggest going to the HockeyMonkey website, and under replacement blades theres pictures of all the curves from different stick-makers. Check it out :thumbsup:

[AzNightmare]

Okay, I'll check the site out for the designs. I've never actually played ice hockey before though, so I'm not sure about spending $50 on a stick, especially if I have to put the shaft and blade together. I'm not really even sure the procedures on how to melt the glue and stuff. I will proably just stick to a $20-30 wooden stick.

[beetea]

try the forsberg, malkin, iginla, recchi, curve.
pretty standard straight blade.

[SumAznGuy]

Okay, I'll check the site out for the designs. I've never actually played ice hockey before though, so I'm not sure about spending $50 on a stick, especially if I have to put the shaft and blade together. I'm not really even sure the procedures on how to melt the glue and stuff. I will proably just stick to a $20-30 wooden stick.

Most places will have a heat gun and if you ask nicely, will put the stick and blade together for you. With the new composite sticks, you shouldn't, but I still did, use the kitchen range. Just don't put the stick too close to the element, and turn it constantly so the glue has a chance to melt, assuming it is a glue type blade. There use to be the T system, or whatever Easton called it, where they have some rubber catchers that wedge up into the shaft when you insert the blade.

Don't worry about the curve too much. When you get on the ice, you'll be too worried about not falling or catching up to the play.

[AzNightmare]

OK, I'm gonna go stick and puck tomorrow at Richmond Ice Centre.
Anyone else planning to go?

[Grandmaster TSE]

its pretty easy to put on the blade
if you are afraid to use the element to heat it up, you can always hold onto it and stick the glue end into the oven and let it heat up like that

when i first started i used the naslund curve
its a pretty good curve to start off with for wrist shots, not as good for a slapshot though

[m3thods]

Okay, I'll check the site out for the designs. I've never actually played ice hockey before though, so I'm not sure about spending $50 on a stick, especially if I have to put the shaft and blade together. I'm not really even sure the procedures on how to melt the glue and stuff. I will proably just stick to a $20-30 wooden stick.

If you purchase at a sports store selling 2-pieces they will always put it in for you for free. When replacing you just bring you stick when you buy a new blade.

[AzNightmare]

So for a newbie like myself that have never taken a single shot on ice, is it recommended to start with wood or is wood not worth it and might as well move up to composite?

test123123

edit edit is edit working?

[AzNightmare]

btw, did you say sportchek is selling blades for 50% off? Is this some sale or is it a special that you get when you purchase a shaft and blade?

[AzNightmare]

So for a newbie like myself that have never taken a single shot on ice, is it recommended to start with wood or is wood not worth it and might as well move up to composite?

btw, did you say Sportchek is selling blades for 50% off? Is this some sale or is it a special that you get when you purchase a shaft and blade?

I'm going to be purchasing a stick, gloves, and skates at Sportchek tonight. Only problem I see about shaft and blade is that I cannot test it out before I buy it. Since they will be in two pieces until I pay for them. And with lack of experience, I can't tell which shaft+blade is suitable without having an old hockey stick to use as a guideline.

(edit button is messed up...)

[HonestTea]

btw, did you say sportchek is selling blades for 50% off? Is this some sale or is it a special that you get when you purchase a shaft and blade?

How much did you spend in total? for all the equipment so far?

[absolutZERO]

So for a newbie like myself that have never taken a single shot on ice, is it recommended to start with wood or is wood not worth it and might as well move up to composite?

btw, did you say Sportchek is selling blades for 50% off? Is this some sale or is it a special that you get when you purchase a shaft and blade?

I'm going to be purchasing a stick, gloves, and skates at Sportchek tonight. Only problem I see about shaft and blade is that I cannot test it out before I buy it. Since they will be in two pieces until I pay for them. And with lack of experience, I can't tell which shaft+blade is suitable without having an old hockey stick to use as a guideline.

(edit button is messed up...)

Hey Az, if I were you, I'd keep things simple and buy a cheaper wood-based stick, or if you're really keen, a mid-range composite. That way you can test it in the store for flex and lie. If you're going to invest in a two-piece setup, might as well get more experience first before you sink the money.

Most wood based sticks these days are actually composites with fibreglass, kevlar, and what not anyways, so they're not that heavy (although they'll be noticeably heavier compared to a performance composite).

If you're just getting into ice, there's no point in running around with a $120 stick when you're still working on your shot. Hell, I still use $20 sticks for roller. There's always plenty of time to pick up an expensive stick in the future. Just my 2 cents.

[AzNightmare]

Nothing so far. I have a good helmet I'm borrowing. and I went to sportchek during my lunch break to try on some skates. I really want to keep my skate + gloves + stick around $200. But skates is my top priority. They gotta be comfortable. I was looking into CCM vector 4 which costs $120. That's fine. But they didn't have my size anywhere. It's on clearance. The Vector 7 fits fine, but it cost $200, which is beyond my budget.

[AzNightmare]

.

[Grandmaster TSE]

yeah, go with a simple wood stick to work on your shot

don't cheap out on skates, i know you want to keep under budget and that is possible
but don't go out and buy a pair just cuz they're cheap, get something that will be comfortable while you're skating

[absolutZERO]

Hey Az, if you're near a SportMart, might wanna try checking there for the Vector 4's... Never know what you might find.

http://www.sportmart.ca/store/mailers/vipsavings5/middle.jpg

Some coupons here too, knock off another 10 bucks at least if you find anything good.

G'luck with the equipment hunt!

[AzNightmare]

WOW thanks absolutZERO.

I'm definately not gonna cheap out in skates. Just that $200 seems a bit too much for me. But these coupons will definately help. Do I just print them out and use them in the store as if they are cash? Should I buy skates today and use the $20, and then come back again tomrrow, and buy gloves, save $5? Or can I use multiple coupons at once?


wait, is this a public coupon thing, or is it a sportmart VIP member thing, which you happen to be?

[absolutZERO]

Hey Az, I think you can just print them out, or they should have a set of them in the store too... They usually come in the mail but I only saw the online one this time.

You can stack them, too, I think... Cuz one time I bought a buncha of stuff and it was over the sum of two of the coupon requirements so the cashier used both (e.g., I spent like... $130 or so.. so the cashier stacked $5 off $40 and $10 off $80).

Hope it works!

[AzNightmare]

Thanks absolutZERO, I bought skates with the coupon and although when the guy scanned the coupon, it wasn't valid, but he just took a stack he had from the store and used it so I got $10 off.

They didn't have a wide selection of gloves though, so in the end I went to sportchek to get my gloves and stick.

Now I'm set for stick and puck tomorrow... yay!

[absolutZERO]

Thanks absolutZERO, I bought skates with the coupon and although when the guy scanned the coupon, it wasn't valid, but he just took a stack he had from the store and used it so I got $10 off.

They didn't have a wide selection of gloves though, so in the end I went to sportchek to get my gloves and stick.

Now I'm set for stick and puck tomorrow... yay!

Hey Az, glad they had the coupons in store... Saving $10 isn't a lot, but might as well make use of it! ;D

Have fun at stick and puck tomorrow... Slim chance I might come out, depends on how tired I am lol.

[SumAznGuy]

Thanks absolutZERO, I bought skates with the coupon and although when the guy scanned the coupon, it wasn't valid, but he just took a stack he had from the store and used it so I got $10 off.

They didn't have a wide selection of gloves though, so in the end I went to sportchek to get my gloves and stick.

Now I'm set for stick and puck tomorrow... yay!

I forgot what you said about how stong of a skater you are.
You might want to wear some knee/shin pads incase you fall.

Also, you will need to bring your own puck. Some people might bring extra pucks, but you don't want to take that chance.

[AzNightmare]

Oh, it was in the other thread. I thought you meant how strong of a skater as in if I'm a power skater. lol

I'm alright at skating. I won't fall as long as no one bumps me or if I'm not trying to do something I know I'm not capable of, like power stopping or doing figure skating aerial twists. I will get the knee/shin pads eventually, but I didn't do enough research yet to buy them. I did take a quick look today though. Is the calf wrap around really neccessary at my level?

I was in a bit of a rush just to get enough stuff to be able to participate for stick and puck. I was told to get there as early as possible to get a spot at RIC. is it gonna be really packed? Because I heard it was way better than 8 rinks. I don't have any protective gear as of now beside gloves and a helmet with a full face visor (it appearly goes below my chin). Will I stand out as the only guy without the full hockey gear at stick and puck?


I just tried on my skates again because I'm trying to break into them now. I got blade guards so I can walk around the house with them. It's been about an hour now and my right foot feels like it's low on blood circulation or something. My left foot is still perfectly fine. So is this normal ?? Nothing is pinching or hurting or anything. Just my right foot starting to feel a bit numb on the sides as if I'm not getting enough blood flow... When I stand up though, it feels slightly better.

[bartone]

Oh and now as for brands. how is the brand rbk compared to vaughn?

[SumAznGuy]

If your foot feels numb, then that is probably lack of blood flow.
It could be one of many reasons. Laces are too tight, poor fitting boot, skate just needs to be broken in.

Just loosen the skates and re-tighten then after your foot is no longer numb. Sometimes when I play, I have the same thing but after a few minutes of play. But I play it out and usually the boot loosens up a bit and it goes away.

[m3thods]

Oh, it was in the other thread. I thought you meant how strong of a skater as in if I'm a power skater. lol

I'm alright at skating. I won't fall as long as no one bumps me or if I'm not trying to do something I know I'm not capable of, like power stopping or doing figure skating aerial twists. I will get the knee/shin pads eventually, but I didn't do enough research yet to buy them. I did take a quick look today though. Is the calf wrap around really neccessary at my level?



imho I believe that MORE protection is needed at a beginner level, especially if you are learning with beginners. Being with beginners the probability of getting hurt (inadvertently mostly) is higher because they cannot control what they are doing. So to answer your question, yes I believe it is necessary at your level :thumbsup:


As for RBK vs Vaughn, they are both top notch equipment makers. Find the pads that fit your needs (and actually fit your legs and stopping style) and judge from there. It's like asking about Honda vs Toyota in the economy car market - both are excellent companies, both have their pros and cons depending on what you need your car to do.

[SumAznGuy]

Az, how did stick and puck go? How did you feel out there?

[AzNightmare]

It was great. I had a lot of fun. I stayed for about two hours. At first I just skated around to test out my new skates. Then I started playing around with the puck and just circling along the boards and then started taking some wrist shots at the boards in the side. Most of them just stayed on the ice and they were rather weak. I got a few of them up high in the mid area of the boards. I'm acutally not even sure if I'm applying the correct technique. I practiced a few snap shots but didn't bother with any slapshots. I didn't shoot at the net just because my shots are probably too weak currently, and I needed a board for the puck to bounce back so I don't have to fetch it out of a net all the time. It was good though. A lot of times I lost control of the puck when I was just trying to play around with it. I felt like my stick was too short. But most likely my stickhandling just sucks. I'm using the Nike Bauer Supreme One55 wooden stick.

[SumAznGuy]

I felt like my stick was too short. But most likely my stickhandling just sucks. I'm using the Nike Bauer Supreme One55 wooden stick.

Great that you had fun out there. As for the stick length, with your skates on standing straight, how high up does the stick go? Most people recommend the butt end should end around chin level. For me, I play with a shorter stick, and the stick ends around 2 inches below the chin. Then again, I like to stick handle and play rather crouched.

[AzNightmare]

My stick's too long for me according to the guide. I can't remember how tall it is when I got my skates on. But when I'm standing on barefeet, the stick butt goes all the way up to my eyebrows. So with skates on, it's probably up to my nose. I'm sure the stick is fine though, just a combination of getting used to it and learning how to stick handle. Too bad the next time I get a chance to play again will be in the newbie drop-in on Dec 13. Since I work office hours and I just got lucky yesterday because I had a day off, I can't go to anymore stick and puck sessions anytime soon.

[SumAznGuy]

My stick's too long for me according to the guide. I can't remember how tall it is when I got my skates on. But when I'm standing on barefeet, the stick butt goes all the way up to my eyebrows. So with skates on, it's probably up to my nose. I'm sure the stick is fine though, just a combination of getting used to it and learning how to stick handle. Too bad the next time I get a chance to play again will be in the newbie drop-in on Dec 13. Since I work office hours and I just got lucky yesterday because I had a day off, I can't go to anymore stick and puck sessions anytime soon.

That would be too long, unless you play D.
I would definately cut the stick shorter to nose level when barefoot.
After that, just get more ice time to get use to the stick.

My current stick is a Vapor 7, and it took me 3 weeks to get use to the feel and the length is the same as my old stick.

[Grandmaster TSE]

i play forward and love playing with a longer stick
my stick comes up to about my nose and mouth on skates

it really just depends on how you play

[AzNightmare]

So far this stick hasn't ever felt too long or bulky. I might be playing upright, so I'll give it some time to figure out my own style. I'm not sure if I crouch or not. Maybe after a few pick up games, people can tell me what I am, since I won't be conscious of my own playing style when I'm out on the ice.

[beetea]

A bit of advice, if you do plan to progress with ice hockey. Work on your skating the most. Most people go out there and crank slapshots like it was going out of style. And when they go to get the puck, they might as well be using rollerblades on the ice.

It's a little boring at first not being able to play around with the puck, but trust me get comfortable skating, then once you are, add the puck.

Don't want to see another "shooting only" stick and puck guy.

[Xnova]

do u guys know any place cheap to buy goalie gears??? cyclone taylors expensive with the pads!!!

[absolutZERO]

If you want cheap, recreational level gear, order online. Hockey Giant, Ice Warehouse, Don Simmons, etc. there's a bunch... Might wanna look for retailer reviews too, though.

I dare say that the price of goalie equipment is actually better now than it was 10 years ago, though... Especially with RBK entering the market and really pushing Vaughn, Louisville/TPS, Itech, etc. to be more competitive.

From looking at the Cyclone site, looks like they have the older RBK 6Ks for $350... that's pretty damn good for pads.

Reminds me that I need to go fitting for new skates lol.

[RayBot]

do u guys know any place cheap to buy goalie gears??? cyclone taylors expensive with the pads!!!


you wanna go used or slightly lower quality which is good for beginners??

Sports Exchange....but i know people that shopped there and upgraded the rookie equipment they bought there about a year later.


I dunno about you guys...but ESPECIALLY if i was a goaltender, i would want to use the gear that i bought for the LONGEST time possible....not upgrade after a year when i become better.

[Xnova]

im thinking of brand new goalie stuff. not used or w/e.

[suprasian]

im thinking of brand new goalie stuff. not used or w/e.

have you played goalie on ice/roller before? are you planning on joining a league? i play both goalie and forward and i must say if you're planning on playing goalie for a while i would spend the extra money. the lower end gear will protect you from players who cant shoot hard but thats it. you will feel stingers from a good slap shot if you wear the cheap gear. if you havent played before and wanna give it a try id buy used 1st as new goalie gear is really expensive. it will cost you at least a grand from scratch and thats not even the high end stuff. go to goaliemonkey.com and take at look at their clearance goalie sets. the prices arent bad

[Xnova]

yea im playing in a league. goaliemonkey apparently doesnt ship to canada for certain brands as well as charging ridiculous amount of shipping charges just for pads. i heard it was $100 or 200 more.

[suprasian]

^ well if money is an issue then you should buy used gear if you need everything. or else be prepared to pay around 400 for pads. 300 for blocker and trapper. 40 for a jock. 130 for goalie pants. 150 for a low end mask. 60 for a goalie stick. 200 for goalie skates. 200 for a chest protector. the prices i've stated are somewhat in the middle/lower end models for gear. that comes to about 1500 bucks. there may be cheaper stuff out there brand new but it wont last that long to be honest and wont protect you fully against a good shooter
goodluck

[AzNightmare]

For elbow pads, how much of my forearm should be exposed in the area between the end of the elbow/forearm guard and the cuffs of my gloves?

I'm using the Vapor XII gloves right now. Are those considered short or long cuffs?

[Grandmaster TSE]

For elbow pads, how much of my forearm should be exposed in the area between the end of the elbow/forearm guard and the cuffs of my gloves?

I'm using the Vapor XII gloves right now. Are those considered short or long cuffs?

whatever is comfortable for you

for me, i have a inch or so from my gloves to the elbows

[m3thods]

For elbow pads, how much of my forearm should be exposed in the area between the end of the elbow/forearm guard and the cuffs of my gloves?

I'm using the Vapor XII gloves right now. Are those considered short or long cuffs?

As previous poster said it's all PP. I personally have NBH 4-Rolls which are medium length, and short elbow pads. I fill the rest with Eagle Wrist guards which I definitely swear by- one of the better hockey investments next to skates and helmet. :thumbsup:

[mickz]

Instead of using a low end shaft and blade combo, invest your money in a good wood stick instead.

A shitty shaft will cost you at least $30 but you can already get a top of the line wood stick for $40. The wood stick will be better balanced and will have WAY better performance than some price point composite shaft and blade.

[AzNightmare]

Is the edit button working?

[AzNightmare]

I feel sad, because last week I went to the Richmond Centre Sportchek to buy my hockey stick.

Then yesterday I went to the Metrotown one and they had a way bigger selection of stuff. Such as there's actually two different versions of my stick (Gange / Lindros).

After stick and puck session, I've noticed the tape on my heel of the blade wearing out. So that means I need a lower lie, right? I'm debating whether to buy the other version (with the lower lie). I think Sportchek has a "buy one, get the second one 50% off" on wooden sticks. I think I can just show the receipt that I bought a stick last week and would still be able to use this deal to get another one 50% off... The stick retails at $33. Or would it just be easier to cut my stick a few inches shorter. It does go up to my nose on skates. That should help the stick go in a more upright position to fix the lie. The problem with cutting my stick is that the flex will go up. According to my body weight, I probably should be using a 65-70... That is if I can even find a Sr. stick with those flex numbers.

And btw, does anyone know anything about Ice Level? I think it's a store in Richmond. My friend said he had some store credit that he can let me use to knock down the price on some stuff.

[SumAznGuy]

Can't say for certain but try cutting the stick to the right length before deciding the lie is wrong for you.

Don't worry about the stiffness on the stick. Unless you take a lot of snap/slap shots, you really won't notice it. And that is assuming you are at the skill level where you will notice it.

Ice level is good. They have a pretty good selection of hockey gear. And it can't hurt to go out there to take a look.

[Xnova]

i bought the RBL 6K Turco flex pads package with the blocker and trapper today from hockeyshop. it was $705 including tax. do u guys think if its a deal?

[SumAznGuy]

i bought the RBL 6K Turco flex pads package with the blocker and trapper today from hockeyshop. it was $705 including tax. do u guys think if its a deal?

What is the refund policy? :haha:

I have no clue, but the last time my brother bought goalie pads, they were almost $1000 so to me that seems like a good price.

[Xnova]

says full refund available 10 days from date of purchase

[m3thods]

If they don't hurt when you make a save I'd say that's a pretty damn good deal.

[Xnova]

cool.

im wondering where else can i buy inline goalie skates locally. cyclonetaylor doesnt have any. hockeyshop only have 1 selection and its $350.

[suprasian]

^ honestly you dont need them. i bought a pair and i really didnt notice any difference other then the lower stance you get but you can just buy goalie wheels and put them on regular skates and you get the same result in my opinion. if you want i can sell you mine. still in very good condition. PM me if you're interested. if you do wanna go brand new then check out source for sports in surrey

[AzNightmare]

Mugen, do you play in a roller hockey league or something?

[Xnova]

^yea.

thats why im trying to buy some goalie roller blades. but i couldnt find any around here

[AzNightmare]

When holding the stick, should your top hand be holding below the stick knob, or should your palm be on the knob (so your pinky is kinda hanging off and holding nothing) ?

I just read this on a hockey site that said:

"Very Important: Your new knob should rest in the MIDDLE of your palm, NOT above your hand. This handle & grip combination allows for improved puck feel & control. Remember, most of the time, the top hand (the one attached to our new handle) grips the stick comfortably for control, range of motion & flexibility. It is your bottom hand (the POWER hand) that grips the stick firmly. "

I always held my top hand below the knob. Have I been holding my stick wrong all this time?

[Xnova]

not that i think of. i do what u do and its pretty much personal preference and comfortablity

[SumAznGuy]

It's all personal preference. Pay attention to the NHL guys when the tv zooms in on the them. Some of the NHL players have big friggen knobs on the ends. I on the other hand use a smaller knob on the end of the stick. I use a smaller knob because I will shift back and forth from holding the knob in my palm, to gripping the stick just below the knob. But 90% of the time, I will hold the stick just below the knob.

I do it because I am going to lean into a slapshot and I do that to get a little bit more leverage on the stick.

[mickz]

How you want each piece of equipment fitting is personal preference. Any advice you get from current players or from online are only guidelines.

[Gumby]

I hold my hockey stick at the very end (no pinky hanging off and holding nothing!). I use a bit of black hockey tape there so it grips better in my gloves.

[AzNightmare]

Does anyone use the RBK 5K pants? That's the one I got, and I realized there isn't any padding where my butt cheeks are. there's a narrow strip of hard plastic padding down the middle to protect my lower spine/tailbone, and there's padding wrapping around my thighs, but there's like literally nothing where my butt is. Is this for more mobility or something? Many other pants got padding around the whole back area. I can imagine falling on my ass may hurt if my tailbone doesn't catch the fall...

Is this normal, or did RBK really mess up on this pants design?

[Noir]

It's normal. Most paddings in a hockey pants is for the frontal area of your legs. Mine doesn't have paddings on the back either.

I guess RBK is pushing you to face your shooter and not have your back towards him. :)

[Xnova]

yea, u wont get shot in the butt that much anyway lol

[Noir]

nm. sorry

[m3thods]

yea, u wont get shot in the butt that much anyway lol

lol you'd be surprised how many aerial passes ive received on my bottom. :thumbsup:

when you start playing more you'll start to develop tastes and dislikes as to how everything fits. if it feels more comfy or gives you an edge, stick with it and ditch whatever's annoying you. it all comes with experience and like a previous posted said- anything on here you should take as a guideline

[AzNightmare]

Since I can't just go to an ice rink on a daily basis to play hockey or shoot around, if I could play some hockey on rollerblades, I think it could really benefit me since I'm a newbie.

But what stick should I use? Should I buy a spare stick and grind it out on the pavement, or cut off the blade on a spare stick and stick on those plastic blades?

[m3thods]

Since I can't just go to an ice rink on a daily basis to play hockey or shoot around, if I could play some hockey on rollerblades, I think it could really benefit me since I'm a newbie.

But what stick should I use? Should I buy a spare stick and grind it out on the pavement, or cut off the blade on a spare stick and stick on those plastic blades?

I probably won't be the last to tell you that although seemingly similar, the skating in roller and ice hockey are different enough to cause problems. They are good to get the hang of pushing off, but rollerblades do not emulate the feel of edges AT ALL. It's easier to move from ice to roller, but not vice versa

Everytime I hit the ice coming from a PICH game the same day I usually bitch and complain on how it takes time to adjust to ice again. Just my two cents, and it's great that you want to learn hockey so bad. But if you are trying to learn ice hockey, try your best to make it out to a few stick n pucks. :thumbsup:

however, if you plan on playing both- then just ignore what I just said :D


As for your question, abs/fiberglass blades are the best for outdoor games. CDN tire also has plastic/wood hybrids which would work great on pavement as well. dont use wood or composite, as they will wear down FAST.

[mickz]

Another suggestion to stay away from roller hockey if you plan to play ice. The skating style is a bit different and it's always easier to make the transition from ice to roller later on, not the other way like the previous poster mentioned.

ABS blades wear just as fast as woods and composites but ABS will wear evenly compared to the other two.

If you're just wanting to improve your shot outside I would just find something smooth and flat to use as a pad to shoot on, like a piece of plywood or lexan.

[SumAznGuy]

If you're just wanting to improve your shot outside I would just find something smooth and flat to use as a pad to shoot on, like a piece of plywood or lexan.

Not plywood. Plywood is too rough.
Go to a school yard that has some smooth concrete like the parking lot of the T&T on first and renfrew. that smooth surface will be more like ice.

I use to practice stick handling like that.

[AzNightmare]

Ok. I might pick up a hybrid stick from Canadian Tire then. I think I seen it before. It's like pre-curved already, and it's not a separate flat plastic blade that you attach yourself and have to bend later. I think I only found a LH one though.

well anyway, I just wanted to practice shooting and puck handling. I'm not too worried about the skating. I took ice skating lessons when I was like 5, and then transitioned to rollerblades at 8 without ever noticing they were different. Although I would probably say I'm better at roller just because I only had the oppurtunity to go ice skating once a year. (which is probably why I started rollerblading in the first place).

As for playing both, I'm not sure yet. I used to play roller/street but I always played as a goalie. Which is why I'm basically newb at all the elements of shooting. I actually don't skate that well either compared to a hockey player.

But it's always easier to get a rollerblade game going year round.
Too bad in Vancouver, we can't just find a frozen pond and play like how they do in the interior parts of Canada.

I would go to a lot of Stick & Puck sessions but I think most of them are all during mornings or afternoons which I work mon-fri 8-5. And the amount of time you get and price ratio on the weekend is just ridiculous.

So far RIC seems the cheapest and the only one that offers 6 hours. I've heard some places are even free if you go super early. Does anyone have any info about that?

[absolutZERO]

Yeah, don't use plywood, that's way too rough. You could glue sheets of teflon to wood if you really wanted to, though. If you could stick a bunch of those cheap plastic cutting boards together, that might be smooth enough too. If you have your own garage, you could smooth down a section of floor and paint it with garage floor paint or a concrete sealer and varnish to make it smooth too.

IIRC, I think it's only early morning drop-in hockey (not stick and puck) that's free, at least in Richmond.

UBC offers stick and puck at night on Mon/Wed, I think, but I'm assuming it fills up quick and is quite busy. I've never been.

[SumAznGuy]

My recommendation is to use the internet and look up all the ice-time schedules for all the rinks that are close by to you. See when they have drop-in hockey and stick-n-puck sessions. Quickly looking at Brittania, they have stick-n-puck on fridays from 12-1:15 pm, and adult drop-in hockey.

[AzNightmare]

Yeah, pretty much every stick and puck session is only during the day when I'm working.
Only events at night are drop-in hockey, but I have no idea what skill level to expect from those, so I'm avoiding them for the time being.

[AzNightmare]

Do any of you guys recommend these blade tape stuff?

http://sports.credocms.com/photos/full/DSCN3933.jpg
They look kind of weird and I haven't seen any NHL players use them. They are rubber though so it does provide a lot of grip. And since it doesn't wrap around to the bottom of the blade, it will never wear out on the ice. But is it really worth it or is it just a marketing thing? Or should I just stick to the traditional tape and wrap my blade?

I was also thinking of buying a smart hockey ball. I read reviews, and everyone said they are great. Do you guys use a smart hockey ball for off-ice practicing?

[Noir]

Do any of you guys recommend these blade tape stuff?

http://sports.credocms.com/photos/full/DSCN3933.jpg
They look kind of weird and I haven't seen any NHL players use them. They are rubber though so it does provide a lot of grip. And since it doesn't wrap around to the bottom of the blade, it will never wear out on the ice. But is it really worth it or is it just a marketing thing? Or should I just stick to the traditional tape and wrap my blade?

I was also thinking of buying a smart hockey ball. I read reviews, and everyone said they are great. Do you guys use a smart hockey ball for off-ice practicing?

Already covered :)
http://www.revscene.net/forums/showthread.php?t=469648

[SumAznGuy]

Lots of NHLers use it. I know Willie Mitchel uses a different version of that, but it is basically the same idea.
They do not wear out on the bottom of the blade since it doesn't touch the ice, but I do believe they still wear out after a little while.
I believe they are $15 for front and back, so I dunno if you want to spend that much money to try it. I am thinking about it myself. Maybe that will be my christmas present to myself.

As for smart ball, no. Never used it so I dunno if it will work. I think a roller hockey puck would be better for off ice practice, but how good is off-ice practice cause once you go back to ice, it is slightly different.

[RayBot]

Just because this seems to be a topic that seems to be discussed everyday for the last how many days...i might as well ask.

Does anyone have any ice time for this Sunday that could use an extra person???


Thanks

[m3thods]

Lots of NHLers use it. I know Willie Mitchel uses a different version of that, but it is basically the same idea.
They do not wear out on the bottom of the blade since it doesn't touch the ice, but I do believe they still wear out after a little while.
I believe they are $15 for front and back, so I dunno if you want to spend that much money to try it. I am thinking about it myself. Maybe that will be my christmas present to myself.

As for smart ball, no. Never used it so I dunno if it will work. I think a roller hockey puck would be better for off ice practice, but how good is off-ice practice cause once you go back to ice, it is slightly different.

I've personally used a smart ball they dont offer the dimensions of a puck, but is pretty close in weight and feel. I use it for fun but it does have its benefits in terms of handling a puck on your stick without looking and work on looking for feel.

As for blade tape, it's a good product, but at that price I've had friends go back to regular tape. As for myself, it feels fine but it didn't catch on to me. Much like everything else here, its PP. My PP was traditional tape which I won't be changing anymore.

[beetea]

get blade tape at cyclones, for 9.99.

but blade tape is user preference. i like it for roller hockey, hate it for ice hockey.
nothing like doing a sweet tape job + waxing that twig before the game.

[True.True]

any hockey stores have boxing day deals?? i need a new stick!

[RayBot]

oh dude....there was this warrior stick that i fell in love with at ice level in rmd.
Stiff flex 1pc for 99 bucks.

You should try the hockey shop in surrey....i just bought a new set of elbows and shoulders for 115. Their boxing day sale already started.

http://www.thehockeyshop.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/RbkThrustShoulderPads.jpg

http://www.thehockeyshop.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/NikeQuestApollo07.jpg

[sil-300]

sports exchange is awesome today. picked up nike bauer vapor xxii skates, pro lightspeed shoulders, shins and elbows, vapor xvi gloves and xxx lite hockey pants....so broke now, but soooo worth it!

[True.True]

GOOD DEALS AT SPORTS EXCHANGE, 25% off entire store, im broke now

[Xnova]

wheres sports exchange

[sil-300]

^^ burrard, between broadway and 4th.

[mickz]

Sportchek has 20% off their hockey gear. Not that it's a big sale or anything but it's better than nothing since their PC location stocks top of the line gear. I just picked up a pair of Vapor XXXX shins today.

[Noir]

What's the difference in normal skates and high end skates. Like skates that cost $100+ in comparison to skates that cost $500.

I'm currently using Bauer Velocity but am currently looking into CCM Vector U+. Other than the slight weight differential, I don't imagine dropping an extra $500 for high end skates will make me a more faster, agile player than I currently am now, will it?

[mickz]

Higher end skates are stiffer, but they're only beneficial if you have the strength to flex the boot. If you don't then they're just going to be uncomfortable.

Low end boots are really flimsy and offer no support at all, which makes it harder to learn how to skate. They're good enough for the recreational skater but I wouldn't buy them to play hockey in.

The materials they use for the skate, liner and tongue will be different in the higher end models.

[SumAznGuy]

When we talk about the weight of the skates, by the end of the game, you will notice the difference.

Think about after the hockey game when you have to lug your gear out of the arena to your car. If your gear was a little bit lighter, it would be that much easier.

[Noir]

When we talk about the weight of the skates, by the end of the game, you will notice the difference.

Hunh. I thought that was only a matter of conditioning.

Like in the last pick up we played @ Kits, I was pretty frustrated as my skates felt like bricks since I havent played in a week or two.

But when I play regularly, no matter the skate, I feel very light on my feet.

edit:

I guess the true question is. By looking into buying high-end skates, am I really making an investment into a better hockey experience/gameplay, or is marketing just getting to me and I'm just looking for an excuse to spend? :confused:

[SumAznGuy]

Hunh. I thought that was only a matter of conditioning.

Like in the last pick up we played @ Kits, I was pretty frustrated as my skates felt like bricks since I havent played in a week or two.

But when I play regularly, no matter the skate, I feel very light on my feet.

edit:

I guess the true question is. By looking into buying high-end skates, am I really making an investment into a better hockey experience/gameplay, or is marketing just getting to me and I'm just looking for an excuse to spend? :confused:

Conditioning is part of the equation, but a lighter skate means you *can* play a higher level off the start, and have more in reserve in the later stages of the game.

Imagine if you can improve your conditioning that much, the skates can give you the slight little edge.

Of course we are no where near that level, so for us to spend that much money on high end gear, yes we are falling for the marketing.

[beetea]

High end skates give you a lot more support.

By support in areas that help you push off when you do a stride. If you're in a cheaper boot, you'll notice that the boot really torques and twists when you go to push off. The benefit of going to the high end skates prevent you from the torquing, thus leading to the use of a more effective stride. You don't lose any energy.

Thus in the long run, the higher end skates that are stiffer will generally last you quite some time compared to a low end skate. Unless you are playing 7 times a week.

Once adrenaline kicks in, you'll barely be thinking about how many grams are on your feet.

Having a lighter skate is obviously a nice thing to have. Quicker feet, less fatigue.

[SumAznGuy]

Well, Noir, it finally happened. I finally noticed the difference between my old skates and new skates, and thus it is not hype nor marketing.
I've always played with mid upper end skates when I was younger. The last pair of skates that I bought were from Sport Chek, thus they were on the lower end of the spectrum. The pair of skates that I bought this year, is also of a mid lower model. I thought I could save a bit of money over spending the big bucks on a higher end boot.

Well, consistenly playing 2 - 3 games a week, and tonight's 2 games straight, I finally realized for me, the lower end boot just doesn't have enough support given my stature. By the end of the first game, I could feel the boot twisting as I was pushing off, thus making me use more energy to try to get away or chase down a player. By the middle of the second game, the boot flexed so much, that it was causing blisters on the lower portion of my heels. I could no longer skate with as much power as I could at the begining of the game.

[Wormiez]

Hey Guys,

Broke my Nike Vapour XXX Lite at the shaft, close to the kick-point.
Any of you guys have experiences in fixing broken one-piece sticks? Especially with the two vendors who fixes sticks, SRS Hockey and BC Stick Fix. Experiences? Stories to be aware of?

I am on the bench of either fixing the stick, or buying a new one.

[mickz]

I've never owned a repaired one piece but personally I think it's too costly to replace it. It's around $70 last time I checked for a repair and you only get a warranty on the area where the repair took place.

If I was in your situation I would just spend a bit more and buy a brand new pro return (no warranty) instead of going the repair route. I don't think repaired sticks will have much of a resale value, if any, down the road if you choose to not keep the stick.

[AzNightmare]

I have two questions. One is about my stick, and one is about my skates.

After playing a few drop ins, I'm beginning to feel my skate blade slipping and not as sharp. I don't think it should require sharpening again after such a short period of time. (I went to 3 drop-ins and 3 stick and puck sessions). But I did buy my skate at Sportmart and some guy said he'll give it a "generic sharpening". I don't know what that means because I'm a hockey noob, but if there's a specific sharpening that is recommended for me, I wouldn't mind re-sharpening my skates. I heard the type of sharpening may depend on the weight of the skater as well...


I've also after a few games, my tape on the stick blade is wearing out on the heel while the toe is not really worn out at all. I'm thinking either it's because I'm a noob so I keep having a habit of not keeping my elbow high enough (to keep the blade flat on the ice) or I need a new blade with a lower lie. I think I'm using a 5.5 right now. Also, I'm noticing I miscalculating my reach a lot. I might need to skate faster or compensate it with a longer stick. Becuase some players just naturally prefer longer sticks and some prefer shorter. I play forward though, and currently my stick is just a tad shorter than my chin on skates.

If I had a longer stick, would my lie need to increase or decrease? Or the question can be asked vice versa I guess. I have several options but I'm kinda confused.

I either want a longer stick, a lower lie, or both. But either way, I'm probably gonna go and buy a new stick. Too bad I missed out on boxing week sales now :(

[RayBot]

Errrr.....if you're a newb, then you are probably not experienced enough to venture on other places for a 'good' skate sharpening yet. I remember when i got my skates shaerpened at Sport Check, used it once...and got my skates sharpened at a better place.

Liability wise, all stores a required to sharpen their skates....because straight out of the box, skates aren't skatable....but when you get your 'generic' sharpening done, depending on who you get it done by, it will be good for at least standing on your skates on the ice.

There is another thread in the Sports and Fitness...a lot of people shared their experiences, where to go, where not to go, and who to ask for.

Don't worry about your stick...it may take months for you to find a comfort zone....but just choose based on your preference of length....defensively a longer stick will come in handy. But for the best shooting, handling and all around play, you've got the best length.....

If you're learning....i suggest not using a stick length that will limit the amount of skills based on the position you choose for the time being.


Where u play drop in by the way?

[AzNightmare]

I play on the Saturday drop ins at Burnaby Lake Arena. There's a thread in this section about that. It's titled Newbie drop-in or something like that.

I'm currently using a wood supreme one55 stick. I think I can get another one (with a different curve) for around $25 at cyclone taylor.

This might be a stupid question, but I'm right handed and have always played with right handed sticks. Because it just feels uncomfortable using a LH stick. Majority of NHL players shoot left despite being right handed. Is this really entirely based on comfort or should beginners train to use LH sticks if they are right handed? Because currently, if I have my left hand on the bottom, I really have no control at all where my blade goes.

[RayBot]

No....if you hold a no-curve stick and the first thing you do is put your right hand on the center of the shaft and your left hand on the butt-end....then you're 99% going to be a right hander for the duration you play hockey. Vice versa if you're a left hander.
This is something you'll probably realize in first grade gym class.

Its human nature really.....although i am righty that shoots right.....theres a lot of people, regardless of what hand they are, will use the opposite hand for more controlled actions....such as brushing your teeth, driving, and masturbation. Hockey seems to fall into this category as well....but not for everyone.

[AzNightmare]

^ lol... in that case, I'm very right hand dominant.
I do everything better with my right hand, and naturally use my right hand for everything as well.

I did some research and it turns out I'm using a Bauer P106 stick that has a lie of 5. I don't think it's common for blades to get any lower than that, but I have seem some 4.5 or 4. But I don't recall which brand has them. Because I don't think Bauer makes blades with any lie lower than 5. Infact, most brands I've seen don't have anything lower than 5. Can anyone help me out?

[beetea]

sherwood, wood sticks, 4.5 lie forgot the curve name

[AzNightmare]

Thanks, I will look around.
I either want to get a 4 - 4.5 Lie wood stick or replacement blade
$35 is my budget.

[RayBot]

i've got a couple of one peice composites that i am selling....
Not using them anymore.

RBK Phaneuf and a TPS Nash curve. Better bang for the buck if you ask me.

Probably going to ask for less than 35 for both :)

[AzNightmare]

one pieces as in shaft+blade?

I'm looking for a wooden blade with the rare lie of 4.5 or less right now though.

[RayBot]

yep.....as in blade and shaft. Both sticks treated me well.

I am not familiar with lie-measurements. So...yeah.

[m3thods]

I'm pretty sure Sher Wood is the only common brand that carries <5 lies.

A Nash is definitely >5, and Phaneuf is a 6.

From experience, get used to a 5 because you'll have tons of trouble finding a 4

[mickz]

I have two questions. One is about my stick, and one is about my skates.

After playing a few drop ins, I'm beginning to feel my skate blade slipping and not as sharp. I don't think it should require sharpening again after such a short period of time. (I went to 3 drop-ins and 3 stick and puck sessions). But I did buy my skate at Sportmart and some guy said he'll give it a "generic sharpening". I don't know what that means because I'm a hockey noob, but if there's a specific sharpening that is recommended for me, I wouldn't mind re-sharpening my skates. I heard the type of sharpening may depend on the weight of the skater as well...


I've also after a few games, my tape on the stick blade is wearing out on the heel while the toe is not really worn out at all. I'm thinking either it's because I'm a noob so I keep having a habit of not keeping my elbow high enough (to keep the blade flat on the ice) or I need a new blade with a lower lie. I think I'm using a 5.5 right now. Also, I'm noticing I miscalculating my reach a lot. I might need to skate faster or compensate it with a longer stick. Becuase some players just naturally prefer longer sticks and some prefer shorter. I play forward though, and currently my stick is just a tad shorter than my chin on skates.

If I had a longer stick, would my lie need to increase or decrease? Or the question can be asked vice versa I guess. I have several options but I'm kinda confused.

I either want a longer stick, a lower lie, or both. But either way, I'm probably gonna go and buy a new stick. Too bad I missed out on boxing week sales now :(

It could be that your skates were done by a big box store by some employee who's never played hockey before. Try getting your skates sharpened at a real hockey store and if your problem still persists get a deeper cut. I am very light for my size and I can still get away with using a shallow cut.

As for the heel of your stick wearing out more than the toe it could be the lie like you mentioned or your stick is just too long to begin with.

[AzNightmare]

I just checked Sportchek after work.
The only 4.5 Lie stick I found was a Sherwood 5030 Feather-Lite.
The stick is actually really light for a wood stick. It costs $30.
The lie does seem pretty good, but as m3thods said, it would be difficult to find other sticks with a similar lie when I do move on to better composite sticks in the future.

Maybe what I should ask is, how high should my shoulder and elbow be when I hold my stick?

I'm thinking of buying that sherwood just to try out a lower lie, and it's also pretty cheap. But in the end, it's also cheaper to just buy a new wooden replacement blade for $25 >.
Of course, that would mean I will have a lie of 5 since they don't go any lower than that for replacement blades.

[RayBot]

I dunno about you guys....but my shoulders are relaxed and elbows at the abdomin area.


Anyone else?

[SumAznGuy]

So many questions, hope I didn't miss anything.

Skates, most people say roughly around 2 hours on ice and then it is time for a resharpen. Given that you played 3 drop-in and 3 stick N puck, I say get the skates resharped. Because you are still a noob, get the regular cut. Once your skating gets stronger, then try the different cuts and/or profile your blades.

As for you stick, just under the chin is what I would recommend for someone who is starting out. I play with a really short stick. While standing up, I can put both gloves on top of the butt and still be able to put my chin on top of the gloves. Start with the stick where it is and once you get better, then try other heights. Also, don't worry so much about the stick itself. I don't think you really need a stick with a lower lie. More than likely, you are wearing out the heal of your stick because a) your stick to too long for the way you play b) you need to adjust where your hands are on the stick c) your skating is weak and you use the stick to compensate. Never seen you play, but these are some of the common reasons.

I am pre-dominately right handed, but for hockey I shoot left. I golf as a lefty while people like Gretzkey shoot left but play golf as a righty. You can train yourself to go the other way, like Micky Mantle taught himself to bat as a switch hitter (able to hit the ball from both sides of the plate).

Not sure what you are try to ask about the shoulders and elbows AZNightmare. Can you be a little more specific.

[m3thods]

I think the positions do not matter, as long as its comfortable.

Take a look a hockey players- they all have different shoulder and elbow positions but all have one thing in common, and that's using what feels most comfortable for them. Like someone already stated you may be wearing the heel of your stick because its too long. I personally play with a 5.5-6 lie stick to my chin ON skates. I'd prefer a 5 but haven't found a curve I like in that lie, so I stick with what feels best.

If you're really worried (which you shouldn't be) get someone to take a picture when you are on the ice. Video works best. Then watch it and see whether you need to cut your stick, move to a lower lie, or do nothing. Video is an athlete's best friend. Don't post it here unless you really want to- in that case you may need one of them Japanese censors :D

[AzNightmare]

I'm not that good of a skater, so I might be using my stick to compensate for turning and stopping quicker. I'm not really sure though. I usually end up falling on my knees whenever I'm trying to battle for a puck along the boards. My stick is definately at my chin level though. After I bought it, I cut it to that height (but it feels short for my liking). I'm already holding the knob, because holding the handle will make the stick really uncomfortable to use.

For the elbow and shoulder question, basically, me being a right shooter, how high should my left elbow be? This basically controls whether my blade will be flat on the ice or not. Although if I lift it higher, it puts more strain, less comfort of course, etc. But it might just be something every new player needs to get into the habit of doing maybe?

I guess I'm a bit confused on preference vs. proper posture. And in hockey, it seems pretty relaxed, as in, whatever you do, as long as it works, do it.

Because if I do whatever feels most comfortable to me, it may not be what I should be doing, if you know what I'm trying to say. Someone did tell me to keep my left elbow higher though, as it would keep my blade more flat on the ice. I was thinking, well that's not comfortable, but it works. Either I need to adapt and adjust, or get a new stick.


Maybe Noir can give me some tips too, since he's the only one that've seen me play, unless some of you guys also go to the Saturday drop in that I don't know about.

[Noir]

Maybe Noir can give me some tips too, since he's the only one that've seen me play, unless some of you guys also go to the Saturday drop in that I don't know about.

To be honest, I really wouldn't use tape wear as a measure of which your appropriate lie is. You've seen me play and I stick handle fine, but like you, the tape wears out in the heel faster, almost at a per game basis.

Reason for this when i stand up, the blade lies flat. But when I skate hard, I skate real low, and if I don't have the puck, that means my stick is dragging on the heel portion of the stick on the ice. Tape also wears on the heal faster as when I casually skate w/ one hand on stick, I'm also draggin the stick with the heel on ice. Hence, why the heel of our stick wears faster.

It's hard for people to suggest an apporpriate stick for you because you're a bit too new and have yet to determine your own individual comfort setting regarding your equipment. So going longer or shorter doesn't really matter. My best suggestion is be kind to your teammates and ask if you can borrow their spare sticks for a shift or two (or during warm ups before game and take a few shots and stickhandle). I would say 99% of people would oblige and you can get a good feel as to which direction you'd prefer, whether be it a longer stick, or a shorter one.

edit:

Oh yeah, reading your post in pg. 3. Get your skates sharpened. It's routine maintenance that you need to keep for your skates and they only cost roughly $5. No sweat to your wallet. Depending on who sharpens your skates though, your skates could last 3 games, sometimes 10+. Hence why I started a thread here recently about where do ppl prefer to get their skates sharpened to review other shops they have patronized. Or, if they even have a specific technician they prefer.

Anyways, 3 pg. resource right here. :)

http://www.revscene.net/forums/showthread.php?t=552641

Oh, BTW, I get mine done at Larry's Sports and I use a .5" shallow cut. I have gone 2 weeks since my last sharpen and I play roughly 3 - 4 times a week.

[SlayerS_`BoxeR`]

I'm right handed and I shoot left, it's probably because my first stick was a Left-handed stick and I just kinda learned on that one. :)

Pretty much everything is right-handed for me, I'm right handed for golf as well..

I can't use a right-handed stick to save my life..:haha:

[F1]

i read somewhere that your dominant hand is the one that grips the stick on top while the non-dominant grips the middle. hence since the world has more right handed ppl that most hockey players shoot left. with me my left hand is dominant so i shoot right. it doesn't always work out that they though and of course, its whatever feels more comfortable.

[beetea]

pure bred lefty here.
left shooter, left writer, left kicker, left golfer, left everything.

but now that my ankle is broken, i will miss hockey very much

[SumAznGuy]

i read somewhere that your dominant hand is the one that grips the stick on top while the non-dominant grips the middle. hence since the world has more right handed ppl that most hockey players shoot left. with me my left hand is dominant so i shoot right. it doesn't always work out that they though and of course, its whatever feels more comfortable.

Not sure, never checked, but it has been said most of the people who play hockey in Canada shoot left handed.

[SumAznGuy]

I'm not that good of a skater, so I might be using my stick to compensate for turning and stopping quicker. I'm not really sure though. I usually end up falling on my knees whenever I'm trying to battle for a puck along the boards. My stick is definately at my chin level though. After I bought it, I cut it to that height (but it feels short for my liking). I'm already holding the knob, because holding the handle will make the stick really uncomfortable to use.

My best advice, work on your skating as much as you can. If time permits, go public skating and work on 1) skating strength (power with each stride) 2) balance 3) stop, starting, cross-overs, and backwards skating.
From the sounds of it, your skating is very weak. If your skating is weak, you spend a lot of energy to go not very fast. So you will get tired faster. Weak skating puts you and other players in danger in case you fall awkwardly and hurt yourself or you fall and take someone else with you. Lastly, if your skating/balance is weak, everything else you do will not improve. You cannot stick handle or shoot the puck properly because you are fighting to maintain balance.

Until then, keep your stick at the current height, and try to have fun. If you are trying too many things, you will take some of the fun away from the game.

[ewong]

Hey

has anyone bought anything off Cyclone Taylor online?

I mean even though it's local. The price difference from their website to the actual store can get pretty big. Like the CCM Vector 10 shoulder pads.

It's $169.99 in the store, but 89.99 online

*nvm they don't ship locally, those bastards*

[mickz]

Hey

has anyone bought anything off Cyclone Taylor online?

I mean even though it's local. The price difference from their website to the actual store can get pretty big. Like the CCM Vector 10 shoulder pads.

It's $169.99 in the store, but 89.99 online

*nvm they don't ship locally, those bastards*

Cyclone Taylor (the retail store) and CycloneTaylor.com are separate entities. They'll never have the same prices online and in store.

[beetea]

They are not 169.99 my friend. Maybe after tax they are that price.

[Xnova]

they wont ship within vancouver. i tried

[beetea]

they will ship outside BC

[Grandmaster TSE]

I'm right handed and I shoot left, it's probably because my first stick was a Left-handed stick and I just kinda learned on that one. :)

Pretty much everything is right-handed for me, I'm right handed for golf as well..

I can't use a right-handed stick to save my life..:haha:

you sound like me
but i think i'm a little more messed up
shoot left for hockey
golf right
dribble left shoot right :p

[RayBot]

you sound like me
but i think i'm a little more messed up
shoot left for hockey
golf right
dribble left shoot right :p



uhmmm...thats as pretty much ambidextric as most people can get. I'd kill to be able to use both hands to that extent.