[marky_21]

hey how u guys doin my girlfriend's birthday is comin up nextweek and im thinking of getting this http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0665000FS10101163&catid=22553&logon=&langid=EN as a present for her futureshops price is 799 and i would like to know if there is any other place that would sell this for a cheaper price as i would like to have an extra money for something else...and also ive been reading all the reviews and they all look happy having it so i really need ur input guys.thanxs

[hud 91gt]

I got mine from Bestbuy a couple weeks ago for $699 with the Camera grip, bag, extra battery.

The silver version was on at Dell for $599 a while back. Although, I havn't seen the XSi on sale a whole lot.

[marky_21]

oh nice,checked the site its 729 now juz the body and 18-55 is lense.

[sebberry]

I don't know where the best price would be, but check out some of the local stores. Typically you spend a bit more, but many will run a 1hr introduction course on the camera. With all the lenses/accessories available for DSLR cameras, it doesn't hurt to develop a relationship with a local store either.

Also, Futureshop ain't hurting in this economy, small stores are.

[TOPEC]

I got mine from Bestbuy a couple weeks ago for $699 with the Camera grip, bag, extra battery.

The silver version was on at Dell for $599 a while back. Although, I havn't seen the XSi on sale a whole lot.

i got the same deal at 699 on boxing day at bestbuy, i can't see any other deals getting better then that.

[Matsuda]

its $699 at photoexpert in surrey

[Senna4ever]

$669 clearance price at Beau Photo, but I sold the last two on Friday.

[marky_21]

oh isee what does it come with?lens?when is the next shipment?lolz

[Senna4ever]

We're not selling the lower end cameras anymore. No one comes in to buy them. We sell a lot more of the prosumer and pro bodies anyways.

[Nssan]

We're not selling the lower end cameras anymore. No one comes in to buy them. We sell a lot more of the prosumer and pro bodies anyways.

I don't see a XSi a low end camera. It is definitely a prosumer camera.

[niforpix]

^^ In a Canon line up, yes, that would be considered a lower end DSLR. The 40D, 50D would be more like prosumer, and 5D and up would be pro (I would assume).

[Senna4ever]

The 5D mkII is a prosumer camera too. An XSi is definately a low-end camera...it's slow, not built very well & is not very well balanced.

[niforpix]

...it's slow, not built very well & is not very well balanced.

I didn't mind my XTi being little slow when I had it, but I must agree, it wasn't well balanced and the body size quite small. I love my 40D so much more just because of the body size being bigger. So much easier to hold.

[marky_21]

xsi is still not bad for a beginner tho ryt,and is it worth keeping it for awhile?
also are u talking about this d40 with 6.1mp?is this one better than the xsi?http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0926INGFS10082555&catid=20222

[Senna4ever]

xsi is still not bad for a beginner tho ryt,also is it worth keeping it for awhile?

No, it's not a bad camera at all. Keep it for as long as you want. As you get more experienced, you'll probably outgrow the Rebel though.

[Senna4ever]

also are u talking about this d40 with 6.1mp?is this one better than the xsi?http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0926INGFS10082555&catid=20222
What is your definition of 'better'?

Niforpix is talking about the canon 40D, not the Nikon D40.

[Tim Budong]

I didn't mind my XTi being little slow when I had it, but I must agree, it wasn't well balanced and the body size quite small. I love my 40D so much more just because of the body size being bigger. So much easier to hold.

i hate my XTi
hahaha

[ashtaron14]

I have the identical camera in the form of 450D. Overall it's alright for a beginner camera.

Senna4ever is right though, I've started to notice that it's quite slow, and so far in yellow indoor halogen lighting I find it impossible to take good pics, even an Ixus S100 with scene detection is better in this type of lighting (at 1/2 the price). Broad daylight the DSLR is better.

[niforpix]

i hate my XTi
hahaha

Buy my grip! :D

Senna4ever is right though, I've started to notice that it's quite slow, and so far in yellow indoor halogen lighting I find it impossible to take good pics, even an Ixus S100 with scene detection is better in this type of lighting (at 1/2 the price). Broad daylight the DSLR is better.

If you know how to use your camera properly, there is no such thing as too slow... Also, it all depends what lenses you're using too. And if your pictures aren't coming out as you want them to be exactly, you can always touch them up in Photoshop. I've had my XTi for a year and a half and I loved it. I just upgraded because I wanted some of the extra features that XTi didn't have, and also a bigger body.

[Tim Budong]

Buy my grip! :D



If you know how to use your camera properly, there is no such thing as too slow... Also, it all depends what lenses you're using too. And if your pictures aren't coming out as you want them to be exactly, you can always touch them up in Photoshop. I've had my XTi for a year and a half and I loved it. I just upgraded because I wanted some of the extra features that XTi didn't have, and also a bigger body.

i have grip!
lol
that LCD screen makes it difficult to tell good shots vs bad shots
other than that
its fine for me
LOL

[Senna4ever]

If you know how to use your camera properly, there is no such thing as too slow...
How many professional sports, bird or aviation photographers do you know use a Rebel or 5D series DSLR camera on a regular basis?

And if your pictures aren't coming out as you want them to be exactly, you can always touch them up in Photoshop.
Is that what your photography courses are teaching you? One should NEVER have the "Who cares, I can fix it in Photoshop mentality." Some things are impossible to fix in software. One should always try to get it right in camera, and use software for touch-up for things that could not be controlled at the time of pressing the shutter.

[niforpix]

How many professional sports, bird or aviation photographers do you know use a Rebel or 5D series DSLR camera on a regular basis?

Is that what your photography courses are teaching you? One should NEVER have the "Who cares, I can fix it in Photoshop mentality." Some things are impossible to fix in software. One should always try to get it right in camera, and use software for touch-up for things that could not be controlled at the time of pressing the shutter.

First of all, I don't know what kind of photography he does, so that was just a general comment. He didn't say in what way it's slow... is he getting slow shutter speeds for his kind of shooting and can't get around it? Is the camera writing slowly to the memory card? I dunno... Obviously you'd want a fast camera for the type of photography you mentioned... But I've seen lots of people get amazing photos with basic DSLRs...

I never said that's the kind of mentality you should have. Obviously not. That's the first thing teachers tell you in class... spend that extra 5-10 minutes setting up/fixing your shot in studio (or wherever it is that you're shooting), rather than spending 4-5 hours later at home trying to fix the mistakes that could've been fixed in few minutes during the shoot. The reason why I said he could fix some of his photos in Photoshop is because he said that in yellow indoor halogen lighting he's getting crappy shots... well, you can always fix your white balance (or try to) and few other things in Photoshop if you don't have any other choice.

Everyone ALWAYS tweaks their photos in Photoshop (or other programs). There is no such thing as perfect photo straight out of the camera. How many times do you, myself, or other people on here tell others to fix their white balance, or play with saturation, etc. How many times have you posted a photo on here straight from the camera without any editing done to it? I think you see where I'm going with this.

Peace. :)

[Senna4ever]

Ah, I see...you need to clarify your statements...and so should I. Your comment about the speed of one's camera was too broad, so I answered it in a broad way. I know how to use my 4x5 properly, but there's no way I can shoot rugby or an airshow with it successfully. That's what I meant.

Then you wrote,"And if your pictures aren't coming out as you want them to be exactly, you can always touch them up in Photoshop." I wanted to point out that no, you can't always correct errors via software. Sorry, I'm a stickler for proper English after taking it in university...I can't help it. :(

With RAW, you have to do post processing, but I've posted straight out of camera Jpegs here with resizing my only edit - not many, but I have. I've posted scans of transparencies here many times with no editing except resizing and levels. I try to follow the Reuters or Associated Press guides regarding photojournalism, which basically state: no elements may be moved, cloned, added, deleted, rearranged, combined or changed in any way that affects the integrity of the image content. No manipulation or modification is permitted except resizing, cropping, selective lightening or darkening, and restoration of original colour of the scene. No special effect filters can be added or applied either before or after image creation, and any sharpening must appear natural.

I hope you have some understanding why I posted my comments. No hard feelings. :)

[niforpix]

Ah, I see...you need to clarify your statements...and so should I. Your comment about the speed of one's camera was too broad, so I answered it in a broad way. I know how to use my 4x5 properly, but there's no way I can shoot rugby or an airshow with it successfully. That's what I meant.

That's very true :)

Then you wrote,"And if your pictures aren't coming out as you want them to be exactly, you can always touch them up in Photoshop." I wanted to point out that no, you can't always correct errors via software. Sorry, I'm a stickler for proper English after taking it in university...I can't help it. :(

Haha I know. It's true tho, if lets say you completely blow out your highlights, it'd be next to impossible to bring them back in PS.

With RAW, you have to do post processing, but I've posted straight out of camera Jpegs here with resizing my only edit - not many, but I have. I've posted scans of transparencies here many times with no editing except resizing and levels. I try to follow the Reuters or Associated Press guides regarding photojournalism, which basically state: no elements may be moved, cloned, added, deleted, rearranged, combined or changed in any way that affects the integrity of the image content. No manipulation or modification is permitted except resizing, cropping, selective lightening or darkening, and restoration of original colour of the scene. No special effect filters can be added or applied either before or after image creation, and any sharpening must appear natural.

I hope you have some understanding why I posted my comments. No hard feelings. :)

You probably have posted straight out of the camera jpegs, but that's cuz you've had years of experience and you actually know what you're doing lol :D

[JLC]

I love how people in this forum can all get along so well... :)

As far as Darthchilli's's comment on the LCD being difficult to tell whether you have a good or bad shot, I learned never to trust your LCD - even on the D90 with a super high res. LCD, you can never trust it fully. The best way to know whether you have a good/bad shot, properly exposed/improperly exposed picture is to use your histogram :)

BTW, LOVE your avatar Darthchilli!

[Senna4ever]

I love how people in this forum can all get along so well... :)

As far as Darthchilli's's comment on the LCD being difficult to tell whether you have a good or bad shot, I learned never to trust your LCD - even on the D90 with a super high res. LCD, you can never trust it fully. The best way to know whether you have a good/bad shot, properly exposed/improperly exposed picture is to use your histogram :)

BTW, LOVE your avatar Darthchilli!
Resolution has nothing to do with exposure.

[JLC]

Resolution has nothing to do with exposure.

Yeah you're right. But in my post, I wasnt referring to the resolution of the image itself. I'm referring to the resolution of the LCD.

Darthchilli's comment was about not being able to tell from his LCD whether he has a good image or a bad image. I assumed he meant the LCD on the XTi was not good. What I'm saying is that even with a higher quality/higher resolution "LCD" like the one on the D90, you can never really trust how your image looks on the LCD and it isn't always accurate to use the LCD to guage whether you have a good shot or a bad shot.

Im still a noob, but when he's saying good or bad shot, i automatically think proper/improper exposure - and proper exposure "usually" means a good shot (unless of course you're trying to do something more creative and are intentionally over/under exposing) Either way though, whether you're looking at a good shot thats properly exposed, or a good shot that is creatively meant to be improperly exposed, the histogram is always going to be the key...

if I'm wrong to assume that good shot = proper exposure and bad shot = improper exposure (unless intentionally done), let me know :)..I'm here to learn :thumbsup: I know many of you are much more experienced in this art than I.

[Senna4ever]

It doesn't matter how low or how high your screen resolution is to figure out if you have a 'good' or 'bad' shot.

Most DSLR screens are too bright, that's why it's best to look at the histogram. Some of the lower end cameras only have an overall histogram (usually just the green channel, I think) whereas the higher end ones have the histogram separated into the RGB components.

[niforpix]

Some of the lower end cameras only have an overall histogram (usually just the green channel, I think) whereas the higher end ones have the histogram separated into the RGB components.

I found the RGB histogram feature really cool. Didn't know my 40D had it when I was buying it. :D

[Senna4ever]

It's very helpful for getting a more critical exposure, as reds blow out sooner than the other colours.

[Matsuda]

I find it's also a good idea to zoom into the photo a little bit on the lcd screen to see how sharp your photo actually is. It may look sharp on your small lcd, but when you get home, you find out that you may actually have some motion blur.