[Timpo]

looks like some of them can last for long time...is it ok for the car though?
would oil still get dirty? :confused:

here are some oil change intervals..

AMS OIL: 1 year or 40,000kms(25,000miles)
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

Mobile 1: 1 year or 20,000kms
http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENPVLMOMobil_1_ep.pdf

[LiquidTurbo]

The 5,000km oil change is an absolute myth, perpetuated by companies like Jiffy Lube. (How else are they going to make their money from you?)

Modern cars and modern oils can go much longer. Just as how car tech has improved since the 70s, so has oil tech. For example, many new cars are equipped with an oil life monitor, which recommend oil changes that are far longer than 5,000km.
It's hard to believe, but the color of the oil has nothing to do with its remaining life and additive package.

One way to check is to do a Used Oil Analysis. (Collect some on the next drain with the free kit you can order from their website), then send it to http://www.blackstone-labs.com.

You'll get a report like this, and you can determine the ideal oil interval for your car.


http://www.jeffgoji.org/D90803.jpg
Amsoil 10W30 - 16,000km. 04 Mazdaspeed MX5, 1.8 turbo


Need more proof? Check out this guy running Amsoil 0w30 with a bypass filter and prelube pump in his S2000. 30,726 miles on the oil! That almost 50,000km!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v711/Slalom44/9-08UOA.jpg



Things to realize.
1. Oil color is NOT a good indication of Total Base Number (TBN), or oil life.
2. 5,000km oil change is unnecessary and is a waste of money and oil resources.
3. Oil change interval is heavily dependent on car and driving conditions. If you drive highway frequently you can extend your oil change intervals, because it takes roughly 15-20km for oil to reach full operating temperature. At this temp, you'll be able to burn off the fuel dilution.

Frequent short trips = shorter oil change interval.

By most standards, take an average Corolla or Civic. They can easily go 8,000km on regular conventional oil, even longer on a synthetic fluid.

Personally, I run 12,000km OCI in my RSX with a quality synthetic and sleep well at night. (Confirmed with some used oil analyses). I would have no problem extending out to 16,000km if I had to, the 4,000km is just a nice safety margin.

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

hmmm interesting topic

[thumper]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

[CivicTypeRice]

Wonder what Timpo's car looks like. :crazy2:

[AVS_Racing]

lol i change every 3-4xxx km

[shenmecar]

lol i change every 3-4xxx km

really? what oil do you use?

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

Wonder what Timpo's car looks like. :crazy2:

looks like a fail

[wingies]

can synethetic oil really last that long? I usually change 3000-4000kms too and I use motul in my car. It costs a shitload for an oilchange

[v67gsr]

it can last that long if you don't race the car.

[unit]

im using mobile 1 5w30 synthetic... but i drive short trips all the time to and from work (2min drive or 10min walk but im a lazy mofo)
im prob gonna change it every 8k

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

it can last that long if you don't race the car.

i think it really depends on your driving habites.

If you are constantly at the track than yes 3000-4000km make sense.


If you are a spirit driver than i think 5000-8000km is fine.


i really wouldnt push it for more than 8000km syn or not, thats just me

An oil change costs $60-70 bux for me with motul, why would i wonna take the risk

[spoon.ek9]

i change the oil when i feel a noticeable difference or see a change in my fuel economy. that's anywhere between 4000-7000km max. plus, fresh oil always feels best for your daily drive :D

[LiquidTurbo]

i change the oil when i feel a noticeable difference or see a change in my fuel economy. that's anywhere between 4000-7000km max. plus, fresh oil always feels best for your daily drive :D

What oil do you fill with? You can actually a notice a difference in fuel economy? How much?

[Leopold Stotch]

personally. it' shard for me to go 5k on an oil change, my car already burns a bit of oil and the oil darkens quite quickly and easily. i do drive quite spiritedly.

i'm using cheaper oil. Mobil 1, so i change it whenver usually.

[v67gsr]

i think it really depends on your driving habites.

If you are constantly at the track than yes 3000-4000km make sense.


If you are a spirit driver than i think 5000-8000km is fine.


i really wouldnt push it for more than 8000km syn or not, thats just me

An oil change costs $60-70 bux for me with motul, why would i wonna take the risk

3000~4000 is over due if you track the car. I change it after every track day even though it is 300V. I run some cheaper products like 4100 for street, switch to 300V for track, then back to 4100 right after track day. I burn oil $ fast during the summer............:cry:

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

What oil do you fill with? You can actually a notice a difference in fuel economy? How much?
you actually notice a difference between using old oil and new oil???

:confused::confused::confused::confused:
3000~4000 is over due if you track the car. I change it after every track day even though it is 300V. I run some cheaper products like 4100 for street, switch to 300V for track, then back to 4100 right after track day. I burn oil $ fast during the summer............:cry:

300V is balllinggggggggg


8100 for me only
:( cant afford that shit, well for DD i guess its more than enough since i dont track my car

[hirevtuner]

i change the oil every 5K with mobil 1 5w30 and add STP fuel injector cleaner with a full tank of gas and it feels lost power got restored and i drive mainly short trips

[v67gsr]

300V is balllinggggggggg


8100 for me only
:( cant afford that shit, well for DD i guess its more than enough since i dont track my car

I have to agree more less. But 300V do allow me to be lazy sometime if the track event is close to each other. I will just run the same tank in the 2nd event.

BTW, 300V for cars are expensive. However, 300V for 4 stroke motorcycle is cheap (like 2/5 the cost of 300V for car). We ran it and everything is just fine (oil temp and oil pressure). And it comes in neon yellow too !!!

[q0192837465]

i change the oil every 5K with mobil 1 5w30 and add STP fuel injector cleaner with a full tank of gas and it feels lost power got restored and i drive mainly short trips

I think that's a bit too frequent. Those oil can last for at least 15,000km. U'r wasting money tbh

Gotta realize that fresh oil is NOT always the best. Generally, it takes oil ~1000-2000km to "break in" so to speak. If u'r changing so frequently, the time ur engine is running "optimal" oil is less than say someone changing every 10,000km

[LiquidTurbo]

Generally, it takes oil ~1000-2000km to "break in" so to speak.

No offense, but you have no idea what you're talking about and just made that statement up completely.

[taylor192]

Thank you to LiquidTurbo for posting the correct response!

Blackstone labs costs ~$30 CND including the shipping and you get a good estimate of how long you can run your oil. They send you the kit for free (I have one), you ship it back with payment, they email you results. So easy!

Considering synthetic oil costs ~$10/L, this $30 test can pay for itself.

The test includes other results, like if you have coolant in your oil (HG leak), or metal particles (unusual wear, and type of metal can even pinpoint what is wearing), ... so the test should be part of regular maintenance to find out how your engine is doing.

I've been doing 15K changes on my C-class, and am considering going down to 10K changes cause of the additional city driving I do now living in Vancouver. Yet the Blackstone test will tell me exactly what to do, and will be well worth the $30.

[q0192837465]

No offense, but you have no idea what you're talking about and just made that statement up completely.

Not exactly, I read it @ e46fanatics. People are arguing that changing oil every 3000km is the best thing to do. Then someone found that oil companis have done studies on it and conclude that it takes time for fresh oil to bind to engine parts and create a "protective layer". That protective layer is gone when u do an oil change. So if u change oil too often, the protective layer will not have a chance to establish and result in more wear to the engine. It has been a while but I'll try to find that article.

Edit: There it is

Mobil 1 currently enjoys the distinction of being the only readily available true PAO synthetic motor oil. You can get the stuff at Wal-Mart for Pete's sake! Perhaps because of its wide availability and comparatively low price, we entered this test with both hope and skepticism: hope that it would do well and vindicate millions of M1 users, and skepticism that it would pull it off. We were expecting it to look pretty beat up by 8,000 miles or so; to say we missed the mark would be polite understatement. Mobil 1 really delivered: 18,000 miles later, it was showing its age but was still hard at work protecting the engine.

As our first phase of the Synthetic Oil Life Study, it was as much a learning experience for the process as it was for the results. We changed some things along the way -- moved the filter change from a mileage-based rule to a performance-based rule, altered the tolerable limits for viscosity, learned a lot about TBN, and a few other things -- which set precedents for the remainder of the study.

But the big question is, what have we learned so far? Here are a few points to ponder, based on our experience with the Mobil 1 phase.

Getting just one oil analysis only tells a tiny piece of the picture. It essentially would serve only as a pass/fail mechanism; without a trend to monitor, the most interesting parts of the analysis would be impossible to see.

Total base number is a moving target. There are multiple methods for testing it, which makes comparisons between laboratories worthless, and none of the methods have repeatability rates worth getting excited about. While TBN is worth considering as part of the larger picture, as a singular measure it is too flawed to rely on.

Engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it.

Topping up the crankcase is a critical component of extended oil change intervals, and frequent filter changes are most likely the key to extreme-length intervals. The cumulative effect of even minor top-ups, let alone a filter change, substantially increases the longevity of the oil.

Based on the results we've got here, we'd recommend 8,000 miles between oil changes on an engine that uses no oil at all, perhaps 10,000 miles on an engine that uses some oil, and 15,000 miles or beyond with a filter change every 5,000 miles. This, of course, isn't any kind of guarantee, and you must evaluate for yourself what your engine requires. One thing we're pretty sure about though: 3,000-mile intervals is a huge waste of resources.


Sauce: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

[LiquidTurbo]

Not exactly, I read it @ e46fanatics. People are arguing that changing oil every 3000km is the best thing to do. Then someone found that oil companis have done studies on it and conclude that it takes time for fresh oil to bind to engine parts and create a "protective layer". That protective layer is gone when u do an oil change. So if u change oil too often, the protective layer will not have a chance to establish and result in more wear to the engine. It has been a while but I'll try to find that article.

Edit: That actual article was deleted, but the summary is here (quoted straight out of e46fanatics from 2004)

I actually read that study before, and it's somewhat controversial in its conclusion.

The first things that came to mind was: More engine wear? Is this opinion based solely on interpretation of a single-pass UOA's from this particular test or do more test results & dimensional data support this theory?

You'll find that that there was no tear-downs being done, which is the ONLY way to measure engine wear (with a micrometer). You cannot tell engine wear from the condition of the oil. Single pass UOA's are only a good indication of oil life, additive package remaining, fuel dilution, and whether or not you have contaminants leaking into your oil, like coolant.

Edit:
I seem to remember that they cleaned the parts between oil changes, effectively removing any protective layer that the oil had put in place. The fresh oil had to re-establish an anti-wear layer. If that's the case, of course wear will be higher with new oil. The study may have no relevance at all to real world oil changes where the protective layer is not disturbed.

[Rich Sandor]

The more additives in the oil, the faster it'll break down. Try to stick with an oil with a low viscosity spread, like 10w30, or 20w50, or 0w10. Avoid 0w50 'all purpose' oils, as the friction inhibitors break down quickly and revert the oil back to it's base weight, while leaving behind contaminants. (unless you are going to be changing the oil very frequently)

In a Vancouver Daily Driver, you can stick with 10w30, because it never gets below -10 or over +30, and you won't be driving the car hard enough to benefit from a w50 oil.

But I track my car a lot, and take it south as well, so I need a 15w50 oil for those track days, but in the winter, that oil is too thick and the car idles poorly when cold. So I either park the car, or change the oil to something that warms up faster in cold weather.

I go for about 10,000-15,000km on the oil, because I know I'm using the right oil for my application. I could probably run it longer, but at around 15,000 the oil is usually solid, solid back, and at that point I just feel better about changing it.

3000km is too soon. 3000 MILES maybe.

FYI, Ford used to recommend oil changes every 5000km.. now, the OWNERS MANUALS recommend 12,000km oil changes. That should speak for itself as far as how much better oils and engine have become.

[Timpo]

FYI, Ford used to recommend oil changes every 5000km.. now, the OWNERS MANUALS recommend 12,000km oil changes. That should speak for itself as far as how much better oils and engine have become.
Is that conventional oil or synthetic?

My friend's Suzuki Sidekick's owner's manual recommends oil change every 15,000kms. (non-synthetic, conventional oil)

[Rich Sandor]

i'm pretty sure it's both, actually.

[GordonTse]

i change my oil every 3k km's. use conventional 5w30 from work which is no cost to me. i don't change filter everytime. short trips to work 6-7mins everyday. spirited drives once in ahilwe eg vtaaaaak :P was thinking of switching to synthetic but no point when i got free oil from work. but soon i'll go synthetic for my manual trans.

[Death2Theft]

What about time intervals where they say u should change your oil once a year even if u never hit 5k.

[hk20000]

Hmmmm I should go top up my oil and change a filter while keeping the current oil then for the next 5000km thing. It just happens that my timing belt needs changing 5000km after the last oil change.

[suzuka84]

oil is such a touchy subject. How many of you guys go out of your way to find German Castrol?

For me, it's Costco synthetic as it's cheap and readily available.

[eFx[A2C]]

It's not THAT hard to find GC...Ctire and Walmart has it.

[wnderinguy]

http://dodgeownerclub.hqforums.com/25000-mile-oil-change-vt1326.html?sid=7bb015353d578b6e2fb377ba52f67518

[spoon.ek9]

What oil do you fill with? You can actually a notice a difference in fuel economy? How much?

for the EK i'm using Eneos 5w30 synthetic
for the EF i'm using conventional cheap shit from petro canada

the fuel economy drops 50-60km/tank or more when the oil is near changing (for my personal preference). the difference in feel is there too (no one can deny how smooth the engine feels after an oil change). the engines struggle to build rpms when the oil is near black, so that's why i change it.

[shenmecar]

^

where do you buy Eneos?

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

do any of you uses fuel injector cleaner?


i know engine flush is bad...but..?

[illicitstylz]

Is there a relationship between the age of the car and frequency of oil changes or oil type? ( Synthetic or conventional)
Posted via RS Mobile (http://www.revscene.net/forums/announcement.php?a=228)

[roastpuff]

^

where do you buy Eneos?

Only place I know locally that stocks it is Rev Competition in Richmond.

http://www.revcompetition.com/shop/index.php?cPath=32&osCsid=3l9fblf826ro6hm9edn1bs4c44

[hk20000]

do any of you uses fuel injector cleaner?


i know engine flush is bad...but..?

fuel injector cleaner is known to gum the shit out of the system....

[spoon.ek9]

^

where do you buy Eneos?

i get it from either SR Autogroup or Sky Auto. both are on the same street in Richmond.

[thumper]

i change my oil every 3k km's. use conventional 5w30 from work which is no cost to me. i don't change filter everytime. short trips to work 6-7mins everyday. spirited drives once in ahilwe eg vtaaaaak :P was thinking of switching to synthetic but no point when i got free oil from work. but soon i'll go synthetic for my manual trans.

do you also change the filter as well?

i ask this because i know people who will change the oil only after 3k, but leave the original filter until the next oil change (6k).

[thumper]

What about time intervals where they say u should change your oil once a year even if u never hit 5k.

i've been told at least twice a year (every 6 months)?

[hk20000]

Mercedes recommend 1ce a year or 12000km whichever comes first. My garage queen usually the former.

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

^


yes but i spoke to one of the mechanic, one of the BMW had to be towed to the shop due to sludge build up. Not changing the oil frequently causes the engine to build up bunch of craps

[hk20000]

^


yes but i spoke to one of the mechanic, one of the BMW had to be towed to the shop due to sludge build up. Not changing the oil frequently causes the engine to build up bunch of craps
but i remember that other story on the internets that "sludge killed my engine" happened to a 3 series that didn't get one oil change during its 60k km service life.

So the oil kept the engine running for at least 50k? :haha:

[tewee]

fuel injector cleaner is known to gum the shit out of the system....

fuel injector cleaner that u buy off the shelf at stores at canadian tire don't do much good. fuel injector flushing (industrial cleaners) should be a maintenance procedure for your car (ie. once a year). gasoline residue (varnish) sticks on the tip of the injector causing abnormal spray patterns or causes leaky injectors. fuel dryers are good too, as they remove water from inside the gas tank. seeing as we live in a high humidity area, we should add fuel dryer into our gas tanks accordingly.

[AVS_Racing]

really? what oil do you use?

i use Eneos i can hook u up if u want

[RabidRat]

The 5,000km oil change is an absolute myth, perpetuated by companies like Jiffy Lube. (How else are they going to make their money from you?)

Modern cars and modern oils can go much longer. Just as how car tech has improved since the 70s, so has oil tech. For example, many new cars are equipped with an oil life monitor, which recommend oil changes that are far longer than 5,000km.
It's hard to believe, but the color of the oil has nothing to do with its remaining life and additive package.

One way to check is to do a Used Oil Analysis. (Collect some on the next drain with the free kit you can order from their website), then send it to http://www.blackstone-labs.com.

You'll get a report like this, and you can determine the ideal oil interval for your car.


http://www.jeffgoji.org/D90803.jpg
Amsoil 10W30 - 16,000km. 04 Mazdaspeed MX5, 1.8 turbo


Need more proof? Check out this guy running Amsoil 0w30 with a bypass filter and prelube pump in his S2000. 30,726 miles on the oil! That almost 50,000km!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v711/Slalom44/9-08UOA.jpg



Things to realize.
1. Oil color is NOT a good indication of Total Base Number (TBN), or oil life.
2. 5,000km oil change is unnecessary and is a waste of money and oil resources.
3. Oil change interval is heavily dependent on car and driving conditions. If you drive highway frequently you can extend your oil change intervals, because it takes roughly 15-20km for oil to reach full operating temperature. At this temp, you'll be able to burn off the fuel dilution.

Frequent short trips = shorter oil change interval.

By most standards, take an average Corolla or Civic. They can easily go 8,000km on regular conventional oil, even longer on a synthetic fluid.

Personally, I run 12,000km OCI in my RSX with a quality synthetic and sleep well at night. (Confirmed with some used oil analyses). I would have no problem extending out to 16,000km if I had to, the 4,000km is just a nice safety margin.

that was extremely informative, thanks for that!

[LiquidTurbo]

No problem dude.

Just pains me to see people running 3,000km/3month oil change routine without really thinking about it. It's like changing your underwear 3x a day because someone told you to.

Waste of precious oil resources (and money too!)
If anyone decides to go do a Used Oil Analysis (UOA), things to note are the viscosity (make sure the oil hasn't sheared out of its range limit.)


Refer to the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) chart below, for viscosity limits for oil weights. The first column denotes weights. For example, the 30, in 5w30. The 40, such as in 10w40. This is a chart for 100 degrees C temperature. (As you might know, viscosity changes with temperature. SAE likes to use 40C and 100C as datum temperatures for oil viscosties.)

http://i47.tinypic.com/9ky102.jpg

For example

looking at the S2000's UOA in the above post, we see that the viscosity at 100C is at 11.22 centistokes.

According to SAE regulations this oil, amazingly after 50,000km still has the viscosity properties of a 30 weight oil. There are some UOAs that show a drop on operating cST below 9. This means the oil has 'sheared out of viscosity'. It's a common problem for an oil that's been left in too long. Cars with timing chains instead of timing belts also tend to shear oil more easily. Sometimes 5w30 oils shear to 5w20 levels. That's not acceptable for say, a turbo application like the RDX, which calls for a synthetic 5w30 oil that meets the strict HTO-06 spec.

Another variable to note is the Total Base Number (TBN). Most modern oils start at TBN number of around 7-10, Amsoil even 12. The number then decreases non-linearly to 0. A TBN of 1 is considered too spent. In the example of the Miata above, it was rated a 3.3. It probably could have gone a couple thousand more KMs. The higher quality oils, such as the ones from a Group IV or a Group V basestock will tend to have higher TBN numbers.

Quick 101 on Oil: Oils are made up of Basestocks and Additive Packages. Basestock are the "meat" of the oil, where the additive package give the basestock different desirable properties by adding components, such as detergents, friction modifiers, rust inhibitors, anti-foam agents, pour point depressants, dispersants, and anti-oxidizing compounds, just to name a few. The additive package ranges anywhere from 1% to 20% of the oil volume.

Basestock Groups:
Group I - Mineral oils - cheap, outdated conventional oils may fall into this category.
Group II - Most modern conventional oils (dino) fall under this category.
Group III - Made from a process called Severe Hydrocracking or Severe Hydroprocessing a Group II basestock. Essentially super-refining the Grp II basestock to nearly have Group IV properties to simulate synthetic oil bases.
Group IV - PAO or Polyalphaoloefins. Made from men in laboratory coats. The truly synthetic basestock.
Group V - Made up of Esters and polyolesters. Another creation of men in laboratory coats. Group V isn't usually used a a pure basestock, but mixed with other ones to give it more desirable properties.

Hint: Mobil1 5w30, Castrol Syntec (Except German Castrol), Pennzoil Platinum all fall under Group III category. (They technically aren't TRUE synthetics, but are allowed to be marketed as such) Only Amsoil SSO/ASM and German Castrol are known to be of Group IV basestock (completely synthetic). Some other grades of Mobil1 such as 0w20 and their 15w50 are speculated to be synthetic blends, containing only some PAO.



So anyway, back to the UOA, all the other metals test show different stories such as air filtration problems (a high Silicon number would show).

The 3rd thing to look out for in a UOA is the fuel percentage. A high percentage of fuel in the oil (roughly >3% (due to the blowby from the piston rings) is a good indicator that the oil will need to be changed more frequently than a non-fuel diluter. A common example of a fuel-dilutor engine is the 3.0L V6 in the newer Accords.

Lastly, the other things to note is the insolubles number. A high insolubles number means the oil filter is not doing it's job well. Contrary to popular belief, the oil filter doesn't "clean" the oil in the sense that it turns the color from black, back to the original golden brown color (or purple in Royal Purple's case, or Green, in German Castrol). It's job is to filter out insoluble particulates that the oil itself cannot encapsulate(dissolve and hold in a suspension).


Just as there is no best car, there is no such thing as a 'best' oil.

Hearing about people putting Motul 300V Synthetic Oil in their 1.5L stock Civic (but it has a WING! and VTAAK!) which is used to get groceries is rather pathetic to point of :facepalm:.

The ideal oil for your car depends on many factors, such as:

1. What kind of vehicle you have
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and their recommended change intervals as well
3. Where you live, the seasonal temperature change.
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
6. Whether your car has any known problems
7. Whether you want synthetic vs. conventional
8. How long you'd like to go between oil changes

Going for a pricey synthetic may not necessarily be the smartest choice depending on the variables listed above.

[LiquidTurbo]

My personal favorite oil.:D

http://i34.tinypic.com/e7gg0h.jpg

[sonick]

do any of you uses fuel injector cleaner?


i know engine flush is bad...but..?

Use Techron! They're like $13 a bottle, dump it in two full tanks before your next oil change.

[Supafly]

factory states change every 15K....i change it every 8K.....a 300 dollar oil change every 3 months is far cheaper than a 50K motor.

[shenmecar]

My personal favorite oil.:D

http://i34.tinypic.com/e7gg0h.jpg

WTF?!?!?

factory states change every 15K....i change it every 8K.....a 300 dollar oil change every 3 months is far cheaper than a 50K motor.

a $300 oil change is quite a lot! :eek:

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

My personal favorite oil.:D

http://i34.tinypic.com/e7gg0h.jpg

:eek::eek::eek: WTF x2

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

Use Techron! They're like $13 a bottle, dump it in two full tanks before your next oil change.

techtron? where do u buy that shit? chevron only?

[sonick]

techtron? where do u buy that shit? chevron only?

Yup, Chevron, just go inside the store and ask for a bottle. It's just the straight up concentrated version of it.

[tonyvu]

My personal favorite oil.:D

http://i34.tinypic.com/e7gg0h.jpg

WTF x3

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

that looks like it came straight out of some jap animation porn shit

[penner2k]

fuel injector cleaner that u buy off the shelf at stores at canadian tire don't do much good. fuel injector flushing (industrial cleaners) should be a maintenance procedure for your car (ie. once a year). gasoline residue (varnish) sticks on the tip of the injector causing abnormal spray patterns or causes leaky injectors. fuel dryers are good too, as they remove water from inside the gas tank. seeing as we live in a high humidity area, we should add fuel dryer into our gas tanks accordingly.


Where can I get the fuel dryer stuff?
I'm guessing Techron is the better fuel injector cleaner?

[spoon.ek9]

i had a co-worker who used to do oil change at work every 1-2 weeks lol. i'd say my average oil change interval is 5000-7000km's max. i acknowledge the facts posted up on this thread earlier but i just don't feel comfortable using the same oil for 10,000-25,000+ km's!

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

Where can I get the fuel dryer stuff?
I'm guessing Techron is the better fuel injector cleaner?

why is techron better

[eFx[A2C]]

It contains PEA which other fuel injector cleaners on the shelf don't have. The only other one that you can get here is Redline Si-1 which is better than Techron concentrate.

[TypeRNammer]

My personal favorite oil.:D

http://i34.tinypic.com/e7gg0h.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa-uFj0frls

Lucky Star by any chance?:haha:

[godwin]

I know VW dealers use heaps fuel dryer.

The best fuel injector cleaner is to take it out to a shop with an ultra sonic cleaner and factory machine to put in new service kit if leaking and get the whole set serviced properly.

Just on that reason, Bosch beats all just because you can find injector servicing so much easier.

If you are truly DIY, always have a spare set of injectors, so you can take one set to get cleaned while your other set is in service.

Where can I get the fuel dryer stuff?
I'm guessing Techron is the better fuel injector cleaner?

[sonick]

I know VW dealers use heaps fuel dryer.

The best fuel injector cleaner is to take it out to a shop with an ultra sonic cleaner and factory machine to put in new service kit if leaking and get the whole set serviced properly.

Just on that reason, Bosch beats all just because you can find injector servicing so much easier.

If you are truly DIY, always have a spare set of injectors, so you can take one set to get cleaned while your other set is in service.

With Bosch and major injectors, you can rebuild kits on eBay (Mr.Injector and Dr.Injector) that include the rubber o-ring seals and replacement pintle caps. Replace the rings/caps, then rinse out the inside.

Or without the kits, soak the pintle caps in techron, and shoot some compressed air out of them to clear out any gunk.

[godwin]

and what does PEA do besides stabilizes resins and make plastics pliable? (I probably don't want to use it indiscriminately on injectors).

;6706942']It contains PEA which other fuel injector cleaners on the shelf don't have. The only other one that you can get here is Redline Si-1 which is better than Techron concentrate.

[GabAlmighty]

Full synthetic in a 30 year old motor meant that the oil changed itself. Kinda handy in a way

[eFx[A2C]]

and what does PEA do besides stabilizes resins and make plastics pliable? (I probably don't want to use it indiscriminately on injectors).

It cleans without leaving residue.
http://www.chevron.com/products/ourfuels/prodserv/additives/tcp.aspx

[Leopold Stotch]

i can't wait to get my car back and do these tests,

my diff oil goes to shit quite fast.

[girlcrazy_420]

I change every 4000-5000km's or every 3 months. I use semi synthetic

[Nightwalker]

My owners manual for my Jeep recommends every 10,000km

[thumper]

Yup, Chevron, just go inside the store and ask for a bottle. It's just the straight up concentrated version of it.

there are two versions... techron fuel injector cleaner, and a concentrated fuel system cleaner... the one sonick is talking about is the latter one. i made the mistake once of asking for the fuel system one and didn't realize that the clerk gave me the injector one instead until after i had already used it... fail.

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

which one is the better product

techtron fuel injector cleaner or the fuel system cleaner


sounds almost like the same shit

[sonick]

which one is the better product

techtron fuel injector cleaner or the fuel system cleaner


sounds almost like the same shit

Found this from: http://www.nissanforums.com/truck-suv/78696-chevron-techron-pro-gard-gas-concentrations.html

Thank you for your inquiry. It has been forwarded to us here at Chevron Fuels Technical Service.

The ProGard and Techron products contain the same chemical additive.
There is but one grade of the Techron product, while there are four
grades of Pro-Gard. The Pro-Gard products are "Clean-up", "Fuel Injector
Cleaner", "Fuel Injector Plus Intake Valve Cleaner", and "Gas Treatment".

The ProGard products give lower, less effective concentrations. These
lower-concentration packages often sell for less. They have less "keep
clean" and "cleanup" properties. They are also not concentrated enough
to clean combustion chamber deposits. There are only subtle differences
amongst the Pro-Gard products, mostly having to do with concentration.

Techron Concentrate Fuel System Cleaner is the most concentrated and
will clean combustion chamber deposits. There is approximately 100% more
active ingredient in the Techron Concentrate than the Pro-Gard Fuel
Injector Cleaner. The active ingredient is Poly Ether Amine with a solvent carrier.

A bottle of Techron Concentrate Fuel System Cleaner, when added to
gasoline according to the label instructions, results in an additive concentration roughly 10 times stronger than the dose in Chevron gasolines.

If you always used Chevron gasolines, you should be getting enough of a
dose of Techron such that you should not have to purchase the Concentrate.

[thumper]

which one is the better product

techtron fuel injector cleaner or the fuel system cleaner


sounds almost like the same shit

like sonick said, it's the fuel system cleaner one you want. it costs more than the other one too.

[Spaceship_coupe]

Too bad it doesn't last that long in this BMW.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

[LiquidTurbo]

Too bad it doesn't last that long in this BMW.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

That guy didn't change his oil for 96,000km. What an idiot.

[Mugen EvOlutioN]

Too bad it doesn't last that long in this BMW.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

HOLLY SHIT WHAT A GENIUS!


:eek:

[spoon.ek9]

holy crap. people that lazy shouldn't even own a car....

[Leopold Stotch]

Too bad it doesn't last that long in this BMW.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

MOTHER OF GOD

did you see the timing chain? lolol i'm surprised it still moved.

i've done some oil changes on bimmers that haven't had some in like 25-30k and the filter just breaks in your hands as you try to remove it.

i wonder what his looks like.