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: 1992 Civic HB Project( Urban Monster )


Trcky
03-15-2010, 10:19 AM
What can I this is my new monster a 1992 honda civic HB, bought it for $1000 cause it need some engine work, Now the engine is good and it is one to body work.

*Engine Pictures to be up soon

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e167/trcky/GetAttachmentbbb.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e167/trcky/GetAttachmentmmmm.jpg

The primer is hilarious green yellow and black it makes the car look moldy, and ways here is some pics of what I have so far, more to come, I plan on getting all body work done soon as possible, Just Need Painter Willing To Do Urban Camo, and a new hood, front fenders, and bumper

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e167/trcky/GetAttachmentvvvv.jpghttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e167/trcky/GetAttachmentvvv.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e167/trcky/GetAttachmentcxvxc.jpg
*Having funny in the dust*
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e167/trcky/GetAttachmentbbbbv.jpg


More Pictures to come>>>>>>>>>.if anyone has extra body parts, mods, or knows a good painter PM me im interested

Victoria SiR
03-17-2010, 11:25 AM
404: Monster not found

slammedcivicsi
03-19-2010, 06:34 PM
404: Monster not found

lol, you make me smile.

Trcky
03-20-2010, 11:15 AM
You kidding me, right now that is the ugliest monster you ever saw, who ever desided green yellow and black together were good primer color, and don't worry I am working on getting b16 or b18, and I might have a painter for the urban camo.

Super Dipper
03-21-2010, 12:47 AM
b16 or b18? sounds hot. is it gonna be JDM?

Trcky
03-22-2010, 03:30 PM
I am going to try and do it as much JDM as i can, but i am working on limited budget, so we will see what parts I can find for it.

Super Dipper
03-27-2010, 01:25 PM
JDM is so badass

ChrisStang
03-27-2010, 03:32 PM
You know, as long as there was nothing really wrong with the original paint and primer, it would be cheaper, and probably better if you just scuff the original paint and shoot on top of that.

I mean unless it was flaking or peeling, or had previous re-sprays on it. So long as there are no adhesion issues, the original stuff should be an excellent base. Scuff the whole car with 400 grit, sand out any areas that need filler, fix dents, sand, prime repair areas, and then re-spray.

I know someone will come in here and say that you always have to take it down to bare metal, but that person is wrong. There are definately times when you do, but often times when you don't. I've painted many cars with a scuff and shoot and never had an adhesion related problem.