[viet604778]

I am currently looking to buy a sound system for my bed room. I have never had any of these before so looking for people info about them. Im looking for a system that allows you to hang the speakers on the wall.

If you can share which system you have, that would be great.

[SkinnyPupp]

5.1 sounds better but it's a pain in the ass to set up and have cables and speakers everywhere

[Manic!]

Is it just for music? Whats your source? Computer, cable ect. Also whats your budget?

[viet604778]

budget is $500, mainly for movies and music, source is tv
Posted via RS Mobile

[Manic!]

One of the better sound bars out there. designed by Andrew Jones.


Home Audio: Pioneer Speaker Bar And Wireless Subwoofer System | Visions Electronics (http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=368&productId=22782&sku=SPSB23W)

Home Theater Geeks 169: The art of the Speaker bar - YouTube

[trancehead]

you might be better off with just a quality 2.1 setup

can always add those other 3 speakers later when you have the money / pressing needs

[RickyTan3]

Bose 2.1 gs cinemate
Posted via RS Mobile

[Presto]

Ugh.. don't get Bose, ever. Their stuff is way overpriced.

[mos_skeeto]

I've been looking online for sound bars as well. How are these?
Polk Audio SurroundBar 4000IHT Sound Bar with Wireless Subwoofer : Sound Bars - Best Buy Canada (http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/polk-audio-polk-audio-surroundbar-4000iht-sound-bar-with-wireless-subwoofer-iht4000/10169491.aspx?path=d7d38b2ed2e6494eb1f5d12a2a05ea8 fen02)

[viet604778]

For a 5.1 system do I have to buy a receiver?
Posted via RS Mobile

[mos_skeeto]

Depends. Some come with one (or built in) and some don't.

[Hondaracer]

Ugh.. don't get Bose, ever. Their stuff is way overpriced.

While I don't support Bose usually, their products are always excellent. A few if my friends have the Bluetooth speaker and it is just awesome for the summer, it may not justify the $270 price tag over somthing like a job site radio or a cheaper Bluetooth speaker but it always worked seemlessly

The home theatre applications Bose has out though are somewhat reasonably priced (check Costco) I thought, compared
To the similar samsung product
Posted via RS Mobile

[lowside67]

No, that's actually not true. A lot of their products are actually expensive AND crap. There are a few notable exceptions - they build some very nice noise-cancelling headphones, a few nice extra products like sound-docks, clock-radios, but for serious home theatre or audio, you can beat it by a MILE.

Mark

[Manic!]

While I don't support Bose usually, their products are always excellent. A few if my friends have the Bluetooth speaker and it is just awesome for the summer, it may not justify the $270 price tag over somthing like a job site radio or a cheaper Bluetooth speaker but it always worked seemlessly

The home theatre applications Bose has out though are somewhat reasonably priced (check Costco) I thought, compared
To the similar samsung product
Posted via RS Mobile

My Parents bought a house with a bose system installed and its total crap. Bose systems sound good in stores because they use a Bose demo disc that has music that's been heavenly altered to hide all the flaws. Play the same song from the original Cd and it will sound totally different.

Buy this BIC Acoustech H100 and BIC America FH 56 Surround Sound 729305002877 | eBay

This: BIC Acoustech PL 66 Surround Speakers Brand New Version 729305004017 | eBay

and a sub $400 receiver you got something better than anything Bose makes.

[viet604778]

Hey Manic, do you have those? How's the sound quality of it and is it a sound bar or is it kind of a sound bar that you can change into a 6.1 system?
Posted via RS Mobile

[Recon604]

dont get BOSE, over priced and doesnt even sound as good

BOSE = BUY OTHER STEREO EQUIPMENT

Since you are going play movies and your hooking up to your TV, get a Home Theatre System. If you really dont like wires running across the room. You can hook them up to audio transmitters : http://www.visions.ca/Catalogue/Category/Details.aspx?categoryId=201&productId=6949&sku=SURROUNDCAST

Edit:
or you can just get wireless home theatre system to save the trouble

[skholla]

BOSE actually makes great products, they get a lot of flack from audiophiles for not being true to rules of hi-fi audio and they use relatively cheap components but they are like Apple. You pay for simplicity and a great overall experience. Forget the haters, give it a try and return it if you don't like it.

HTIB (home theatre in a box), most of these suck, over priced plastic junk. Theres a few good ones out there that are near the $1000 mark but at that price you might as well go for a speaker/receiver setup. Also I'm not too keen on combining a Blu-Ray player with a receiver/amplifier, not a good idea if one component fails.

True 5.1 setup... 5 speakers, subwoofer and a receiver. Hands down the best surround effect and sound quality (depending on your hardware), sky is the limit as far as price goes, its easy to spend thousands on this stuff and not really need it. Main issue is config, tuning, speaker placement, tweaking, running wires, tuning, hiding wires, tweaking. Check out the Energy Take 5.1 speaker package and get a decent low end receiver for a few hundred bucks.

Soundbars, most of these suck but there are a few good ones and a few decent cheap ones. Unless you go with a $1000-3000 Yamaha sound bar you will not get realistic surround sound at all. Check out the reviews on CNET, Sony and Harman Kardon make some decent ones, also VIZIO makes a dirt cheap one that sounds great for the price.

ZVOX Soundbase, I've had all of the above and in the past year have switched my living room and bedroom over to these. Made with good quality drives, wood enclosure, solid build, warm sound, very musical. Check out the reviews, you can get them on sale at Visions or for really cheap refurbished on eBay. The 555 or 580 are great for large living rooms, and don't let the 220 model fool you, this small box with rock your room. These won't give you true surround sound but they look neat, are simple to setup and sound 100000000x better than TV speakers.

[Manic!]

Hey Manic, do you have those? How's the sound quality of it and is it a sound bar or is it kind of a sound bar that you can change into a 6.1 system?
Posted via RS Mobile

That sound bar unlike most is just 3 of there speakers in a bar form. With 2 rear speakers and a sub you got a 5.1 system. Just need a receiver to power it all. I would take it over your standard powered sound bar.

[Manic!]

BOSE actually makes great products, they get a lot of flack from audiophiles for not being true to rules of hi-fi audio and they use relatively cheap components but they are like Apple. You pay for simplicity and a great overall experience. Forget the haters, give it a try and return it if you don't like it.


It gets flack because it sound like crap compared to other speakers in the same price range.

[viet604778]

So I am thinking of getting one of these, BIC Acoustech H100 and BIC America FH 56 Surround Sound 729305002877 | eBay or Amazon.com: Energy 5.1 Take Classic Home Theater System (Set of Six, Black): Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001202C44/ref=asc_df_B001202C442765509?smid=A10VY6F0IU3ZPG&linkCode=asn&creative=395129&creativeASIN=B001202C44&tag=cnet_mp-2485-20)

What do you guys think would be a better choice since they both neeed a reciever anyways.

[lowside67]

The Energy 5.1 Take Classic is consistently rated as one of, if not, the best budget 5.1 system for home theatre that you can buy. We bought one for my buddy, powered off my older Marantz receiver, and it's fantastic. It's not going to beat my Blue Sky system but it's also a LOT less money.

Mark

[Manic!]

The bic speakers will have a lot more output because of the horns and the sub is way better.

Read more about it here: The Official BIC America Formula FH56-BAR Owners Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1355998/the-official-bic-america-formula-fh56-bar-owners-thread)

[viet604778]

unfortunately I just measured my table and my fish tank is in the way of the Bic speakers :( can't hang it either
Posted via RS Mobile

[Manic!]

Another great option is pioneer.

Pioneer SP-BS41-LR 2 CH Bookshelf Loudspeakers Pair - Newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117406)

Newegg.com - Pioneer SP-C22 Andrew Jones Designed Center Channel Speaker Each (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0AJ0ZB8932)

Pioneer SP-FS51-LR Pair Home Audio Speaker - Newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117403)

A good budget option: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10906&cs_id=1090601&p_id=10565&seq=1&format=2

[skholla]

Best sound bars - CNET Reviews (http://reviews.cnet.com/best-sound-bars/)

NCIX (http://m.ncix.com/products/sku/90027)

ZVOX Audio | Great TV Sound From Simple Sound Bar Speaker Systems at ZVOX (http://www.zvoxaudio.com)

Yamaha Digital Sound Projector Wireless Subwoofer Home Audio 2013 YSP 3300 New | eBay

[Cman333]

BOSE actually makes great products, they get a lot of flack from audiophiles for not being true to rules of hi-fi audio and they use relatively cheap components but they are like Apple. You pay for simplicity and a great overall experience. Forget the haters, give it a try and return it if you don't like it.

HTIB (home theatre in a box), most of these suck, over priced plastic junk.

You just praised BOSE but said HTIB are crap. What is BOSE most known for? HTIB.

This is exactly why "Audiophiles" dislike Bose. They make crappy stuff and make it look nice and easy to use. Their home theatre towers are garbage. Sound flat, lack mid range/bass, and have no presence in comparison to many others on the market.

And OP's budget is $500. Good luck with any bose system at that price (Sound dock?)



Personally I would just go with some bookshelf speakers, a reciever, and eventually add a sub. Satellite speakers never did anything for me. Especially for music, you miss alllllllllllllllllllllll the mid range and vocals always lack depth. Better off spending it on one good pair of speakers. On craigslist there was a set of Focal Electra's selling for $300 (2k retail), someone snagged them up before me :(

[Lomac]

Bose... :heckno:

I got a 2.1 Bose system many years ago. For the price, it was good (it was free lol) but the dynamic range was terrible. The only thing I truly liked about it was the fact that the remote could be used anywhere in the house and didn't require line of sight to operate it. Bose does make some decent equipment but I'd be more inclined to spend my money on other brands (Energy, Focal, Harman/Kardon, Speakercraft, etc)

Hell, right now I've got a Logitech Z623 speaker system hooked up to one of my TV's and it's already a far better sound improvement over the Bose system. :lol

[skholla]

By "HTIB" I mean all the lower-mid end plastic enclosed systems by LG, Samsung, Sony, etc. Some stand out from the herd like the Sony that I posted, and others are a great value for the price point like the Vizio. In my experience the BOSE Cinemate sounds better than a lot of these systems and seems to have a better build quality and sound less hollow or tinny.

I totally missed the part were the OP had a $500 budget. In that case I would also recommend a basic receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers. Or check out the ZVOX 555 or 580. Simple setup, compact, good mid range and on budget.


You just praised BOSE but said HTIB are crap. What is BOSE most known for? HTIB.

This is exactly why "Audiophiles" dislike Bose. They make crappy stuff and make it look nice and easy to use. Their home theatre towers are garbage. Sound flat, lack mid range/bass, and have no presence in comparison to many others on the market.

And OP's budget is $500. Good luck with any bose system at that price (Sound dock?)



Personally I would just go with some bookshelf speakers, a reciever, and eventually add a sub. Satellite speakers never did anything for me. Especially for music, you miss alllllllllllllllllllllll the mid range and vocals always lack depth. Better off spending it on one good pair of speakers. On craigslist there was a set of Focal Electra's selling for $300 (2k retail), someone snagged them up before me :(

[Tapioca]

Personally I would just go with some bookshelf speakers, a reciever, and eventually add a sub. Satellite speakers never did anything for me. Especially for music, you miss alllllllllllllllllllllll the mid range and vocals always lack depth. Better off spending it on one good pair of speakers. On craigslist there was a set of Focal Electra's selling for $300 (2k retail), someone snagged them up before me :(

I would second this. Unless your bedroom is 800 square feet, you're better off going with a 2-channel system. I would check out Craigslist or Canuck Audio Mart for good 2-channel stuff. I would start with a good quality 2-channel amplifier from Marantz or Denon and some good speakers from a company like Paradigm.

Sometimes, you get lucky and get something like this for under $500 (I did):

Pioneer Elite X-Z9 Hi-Fi Network Media Audio System - Newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117307)

[Cman333]

By "HTIB" I mean all the lower-mid end plastic enclosed systems by LG, Samsung, Sony, etc. Some stand out from the herd like the Sony that I posted, and others are a great value for the price point like the Vizio. In my experience the BOSE Cinemate sounds better than a lot of these systems and seems to have a better build quality and sound less hollow or tinny.

I totally missed the part were the OP had a $500 budget. In that case I would also recommend a basic receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers. Or check out the ZVOX 555 or 580. Simple setup, compact, good mid range and on budget.

I agree with you that they sound better than the low end stuff, but really not much better. You pay 3x the price and get marginally better than low end. I think this is where the "haters" come in.

Generally speaking, most people don't give a shit and just want a name brand to show off, some clarity and bass.

People that are audiophiles generally are a pickier bunch. Bose isn't the crappiest stuff out there, it's just insanely overpriced with average performance at best. Their marketing is amazing. I'll give them that. :p

[viet604778]

The main reason im looking for Satellite speakers is that I can hang them up on my wall. I don't have any room on my table besides room for a reciever. Im most likely going to get the Energy 5.1 system, anyone know where to get these local?

[skholla]

Selling for $800 at Futureshop and $350 on Amazon/Newegg.COM... Shipping to Blaine is probably worth it. Or stay on the look out for local sales, I think Visions may carry Energy too.
Posted via RS Mobile

[Manic!]

The Monoprice version is the same just cheaper.

[skholla]

Good deal...

NCIX: Sony HT-CT260H Sound Bar & Subwoofer (PM ME for $212) - RedFlagDeals.com Forums (http://forums.redflagdeals.com/ncix-sony-ht-ct260h-sound-bar-subwoofer-pm-me-212-a-1409587/)

[Big.Xero]

How do you guys get around hiding the cables? My problem with my set up is that the back speakers always show the cables. Really looks ugly on carpet, and the landlord won't let me pull back the carpet to tuck the wires in.

[lowside67]

Just tuck them under the mouldings where the carpet meets the wall.

[skholla]

Don't need permission to peel up the edge of the carpet, if you are not causing damage it's all good.

Or go with Flatwire... But then you will permission to paint and may have to re-paint after you move.
Speaker Wire (http://www.flatwireready.com/products/audio_products/speaker_wire.html)

[Manic!]

Don't need permission to peel up the edge of the carpet, if you are not causing damage it's all good.

Or go with Flatwire... But then you will permission to paint and may have to reaping after you move.
Speaker Wire (http://www.flatwireready.com/products/audio_products/speaker_wire.html)

What if you use painters tape first then the speaker wire?:concentrate:

[StylinRed]

you could run em behind the drywall

install something like this

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/474833363/24K-Gold-Speaker-Wall-Plate-2-Binding-Post-font-b-Banana-b-font-font-b-Plug.jpg

if the landlord notices the nice job and still bitches than you can patch up the drywall when ye move out :)

[Manic!]

you could run em behind the drywall

install something like this

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/474833363/24K-Gold-Speaker-Wall-Plate-2-Binding-Post-font-b-Banana-b-font-font-b-Plug.jpg

if the landlord notices the nice job and still bitches than you can patch up the drywall when ye move out :)

How are you going to get the wire thru the studs?

[StylinRed]

you get into the crawlspace and fish the wires through with fish tape


or to save all hassle he could buy wireless speakers


edit: how to from Crutchfield http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XH9Yrpecwqp/learn/learningcenter/home/inwall_wiring.html
Running wire through existing walls

Routing wire through walls in a finished home can often be more difficult than working in new construction. But there's a range in difficulty — running short lengths of cable down from a wall-mounted set is pretty straightforward, while running cable for a multi-room system may be more time- and labor-intensive. As you read, think about what kind of installation you're planning, and your comfort level with tackling some of the potential obstacles in your home.

Cutting and drilling into your wall or ceiling

Always inspect as much as possible without making a hole. Explore your crawlspace or ceiling in an unfinished segment of your basement. Try to detect which way joists run and where empty wall space between studs might be. By inspecting from your crawlspace or attic, you can identify which wall locations are empty of water pipes and electrical wires. We also recommend purchasing a high-quality stud finder that can distinguish between different types of obstacles behind your walls, including studs, AC cables, and pipes.

Of course, you can't know what's behind the wall with absolute certainty. You must be prepared to cut and patch exploratory holes. To minimize that work, we recommend drilling small "pilot holes" to explore behind your walls. Use a sturdy piece of wire, like a bent coat hanger, to find nearby obstacles. Be sure to shut off power in the area where you'll be drilling your pilot hole, and use caution so you don't plunge your bit into a pipe or electrical conduit.


http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/646/646/ca/learningcenter/home/retrofit/Test-holes_PS.jpg
Use a sturdy wire (such as a bent coat hanger) to explore your pilot holes.



Cutting drywall

After you've confirmed that all of your component locations will work, traced the templates, and made any other preparations recommended in the owner's manual, you can begin cutting drywall. If you're creating a rectangular hole, start by drilling two small holes in opposite corners; if it's round, drill two small holes on opposite sides. Next, using your drywall saw, start from one hole, and work around the outline to the next. Use a hand-held drywall saw (not an electric one) and cut slowly. Cut the drywall in one piece, on an inward slant, so that it's easier to patch later if necessary. If you don't need to patch the hole, just remove any excess material before installing the speaker. Be sure you know what's behind the drywall before you cut.

For more information on choosing and confirming locations for your in-wall gear, see our in-wall speaker installation guide.

Plaster and lath walls

If your house has plaster and lath walls or ceilings, installing your own in-wall wiring will be more complicated. Plaster tends to crack and crumble easily, so you should be prepared to do some touch-up work. We recommend running out-of-wall wire, and using carpets, cabinetry, etc. to hide it. See our article on home A/V cable management for more ideas.


Wiring tips and tricks
What if you can't avoid a hidden obstruction?

You'll probably encounter some in-wall obstacles while routing your cables, such as additional bracing or a fire block. If that happens:

Use your stud finder to estimate the position of the block behind the drywall.
Drill small pilot holes and use a piece of "L" shaped wire to determine the dimensions of the block.
Using your drywall saw, remove a rectangular piece of drywall around the obstacle. Cut on an inward slant so that it's easier to patch the drywall when you're done.
Notch the block or drill a small hole for your wire. If you notch the block, don't forget to cover it with a nail plate.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/489/489/ca/learningcenter/home/retrofit/N.jpg
To route wire through a hidden obstruction: (A) Cut a rectangular piece of drywall around the obstacle. (B) Notch the block or drill a hole for the cables. Use your fish tape to route the wire through the hole.


Fishing cable through insulation

Insulation is most commonly found on exterior walls, but you might run into it when fishing wire through interior walls too. The key here is not to fish the wire through the insulation, but around it.

Many types of insulation will have a paper or plastic covering. Try to fish your wire between that covering and the drywall. Alternatively, fish the wire along a stud, using the stud as your guide. In this case, if you have fish tape that's wound on a spool, keep the tape curved in towards the surface of the stud, so that it's less likely to stray into the insulation.

You can also check your local hardware store for different kinds of fish tape designed to be more effective with difficult runs like these. Note: Wear gloves and protection for your mouth, nose, and eyes before handling insulation that contains fiberglass.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/646/646/ca/learningcenter/home/retrofit/3.jpg
Routing wire through an unfinished basement: (A) Cut the holes where the wire will enter and exit the wall — for example, where a wall plate and in-wall speaker will be installed. Next, drill two holes in your basement ceiling to route the wire. You can either measure the distance to the wall plate and speaker from an adjoining wall, referencing a copy of your blueprints, or measure the distance from a visible landmark that runs straight through the wall to the floor below, such as a plumbing pipe. (B) Once you've drilled the holes, use a fish tape to pull the wire up to the wall plate location. (C) Next, fish the wire up to the speaker location.


http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/323/323/ca/learningcenter/home/retrofit/1.jpg
Routing wire horizontally along a baseboard: Carefully pry off the baseboard with a small crowbar. Cut the wire channel by scoring and chiseling the studs (be sure that the baseboard will conceal the channel). Fish your tape from one hole to the other and pull the wire through. Tuck the wire into the channel and install nail plates at each stud. Re-install the baseboard ? no drywall patching required.


http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/323/323/ca/learningcenter/home/retrofit/2.jpg
Routing wire around a door frame: Carefully pry the molding away from the doorway using a chisel, small crowbar, or putty knife. Run the wire between the frame and the jamb. (You might need to chisel out channels for the wire in the frame, so that it doesn't get pinched or compressed when you replace the molding.) Reattach the molding, being careful not to damage the wire.


http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/489/489/ca/learningcenter/home/retrofit/4.jpg
Routing wire horizontally through the wall: If you're working with a relatively short wire run, cut a narrow channel of drywall in one piece, using a utility knife. Ensure that the channel begins and ends at a stud, so that patching is easier afterwards. Drill holes in the stud with a spade bit. Pull wire and patch, using the piece of drywall you cut out. For longer runs, cut a series of smaller wire channels, each beginning and ending at a stud.


http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/489/489/ca/learningcenter/home/retrofit/PIC3.jpg
Routing wire from a J-box to an in-ceiling speaker: (A) Cut the holes for the speaker and the J-box. Cut two adjoining holes at the wall/ceiling junction, exposing the beams at the top of the wall, or "top plates." Fish down to the J-box and attach the wire to the fish tape. Pull the wire through the hole in the top of the wall, and remove it from the fish tape. (B) Fish from the speaker hole to wall/ceiling hole. Re-attach the wire to the fish tape and pull the wire to ceiling speaker hole. Notch the top plates and insert the wire in the notch. Affix a nail plate and patch the holes.


Drywall repair and clean-up tips

If your hole isn't much larger than the holes you cut for your speakers (roughly 70 square inches), all you'll need is some drywall tape (paper or mesh — mesh is easier to work with), a putty knife, joint compound, and either a damp cloth or some sand paper (60-grain and 100-grain).

Place the piece back in the wall. Cut strips of tape, and apply them to each seam. If you're using paper tape, apply some joint compound to the seam, gently press the tape into it, and smooth it by firmly drawing a clean spackle knife across the compound and tape. Make sure there are no air bubbles. If you're using mesh tape, just apply the sticky side to the seam.
Apply thin layers of joint compound over the tape (probably 2-3), until you have a smooth, flush surface. Let each layer dry before applying the next. Thin layers dry more quickly than thick layers, and will probably require less sanding later on since it's easier to keep them more flush with the wall.
Gently smooth the surface. You can do this with a damp cloth or with sand paper. If you use a damp cloth, make sure it's a smooth, non-textured material. Work in short spurts, then let the joint compound dry and observe your work. If you rub the compound with too much pressure or for too long, you'll have to reapply.
If you use sandpaper, start off with 60-grain. Sand the compound until you can't see the lines from the putty or spackle knife any more. Next, use 100-grain to get a smoother finish. If you've got a lot of sanding to do, you might consider using a belt sander — but be careful that you don't sand off too much, or you'll have to reapply. Another labor-saving option is to use a sanding block, available from your local hardware store.
If you have primer, apply a coat before applying paint. Then paint the patch to match the rest of the wall.
If you need to cut a new piece of drywall to patch one or more of your holes, you'll need a utility knife, joint compound, and either a damp cloth or some sand paper (60-grain and 100-grain).

If this hole was cut on an inward slant, start by removing any excess material. If it's not a square or rectangular hole, remove material around it in a square or rectangular shape.
Trace the shape of the hole onto cardboard, or measure the length and width of the hole. Trace that shape onto the new drywall piece, then add a 2" border on each side. Cut out the drywall along the 2" border (the larger rectangle).
Carefully score the drywall along the smaller rectangle that you traced (inside the 2" border). Make sure you don't damage the paper on the other side — this paper will act as your drywall tape. Peel or chip away the drywall around the scored square, leaving the 2" of paper on the opposite side intact.
Apply a thick layer of joint compound to the area around the hole, as well as to the patch (on the side where you just scored and peeled the drywall). Use plenty of joint compound to avoid air bubbles.
Turn the patch around so that the intact paper is facing you, and place the remaining drywall rectangle into the hole. Smooth it by firmly drawing a clean spackle knife across the patch. This should be a close fit, but not too tight. If you need some extra room, just chip a little more drywall off of your patch, or expand your hole slightly. Let the compound dry overnight.
Smooth a thin layer of joint compound over the edges. You'll probably need 2-3 layers, or enough that the joint compound fully covers the seams and is smooth and flush with the surrounding wall.
Follow the sanding and finishing instructions above.
If you cut a large hole that will require additional backing to support your patch, or if you're patching a hole in the ceiling, you'll need some wooden slats (2" x 4"), drywall tape (paper or mesh — mesh is easier to work with), a putty knife, joint compound, and either a damp cloth or some sand paper (60-grain and 100-grain).

Do you still have the drywall you had cut out before to use as a patch, or do you need to cut a new piece? See the previous two examples for instructions.
Cut a piece of 2" x 4", about 6-8" longer than the length across the hole (but short enough that you're still able to maneuver it inside the hole). If it's a very wide or tall hole, you might need to cut more than one piece.
Place the 2" x 4" in the hole. Secure it to the existing drywall using drywall screws. Drill the screws in enough to make a slight dent in the drywall paper, but not enough to tear surrounding material. These screws will be covered up later.
Place your patch of drywall in the hole, and secure it to the 2" x 4" with drywall screws.
Apply mesh or paper tape to all 4 seams (see previous instructions).
Using 2-3 thin coats of joint compound, cover the tape and fill in the screw holes. Build up a smooth, flush surface, allowing each coat to dry completely.
Follow the sanding and finishing instructions above.


Additional tips

Cover your floor and any nearby electronic equipment or furniture before you begin — spilled joint compound and drywall dust can make quite a mess, and you don't want to have to clean that up afterwards.
Joint compound can dry quickly. Wash your tools as soon as you're finished with them, and dry them to prevent rusting.
Sanding joint compound with sand paper (instead of using a damp cloth) creates lots of dust. While not harmful, it can be irritating to the eyes and sinuses. Some people might be more comfortable using protective eye, mouth, and nose gear.
If you use a damp cloth to sand, work carefully and slowly so you don't remove all your work.
Be patient. Joint compound may need to dry overnight before it's ready for another coat or for sanding.

[SpuGen]

I have the Logitech Z5500's

You could probably get the Z906, and be happy.

It doesn't matter how much money you throw at a system, or the quality of the speakers. You'll always be limited by the acoustics in the room.

I'm assuming you're gonna be running this off of your computer? Get a good soundcard. Play with the speaker placement, get a audio tuner, and just tune, tune, tune until you get the sound you want.

[Manic!]

I have the Logitech Z5500's

You could probably get the Z906, and be happy.

It doesn't matter how much money you throw at a system, or the quality of the speakers. You'll always be limited by the acoustics in the room.

I'm assuming you're gonna be running this off of your computer? Get a good soundcard. Play with the speaker placement, get a audio tuner, and just tune, tune, tune until you get the sound you want.

I don't believe that's true. In an audio system the speakers have the biggest affect on sound. My Behringer studio monitors have sounded great no matter the location or source. My smaller M audio speakers never have sounded that good no matter what the source or location.