[AzNightmare]

There's this pipe in my boiler room and it's slowly dripping water.

Leak isn't that bad, but I just noticed it last night, and from the rust and puddle of water, it looks like it has probably been dripping water for at least a month ago.

I don't have the tools to weld (nor do I know how). Since it's right on the joint and not flush, I guess I can't use any kind of pipe clamp, but is there some kind of putty or silicone or something I can buy for around $5~ to just form a tight waterproof seal?

http://oi62.tinypic.com/2dje1ye.jpg

The leak is at the joint, right in the middle of the image.

[nabs]

JB WELD,

shut off the water and make sure it's as dry as possible before applying it.

[fliptuner]

You know those times when you should spend the money to get things fixed properly?
This is one of them.



DIY is simple enough though. All you really need is a propane torch, flux, solder and some emery cloth. Drain the line, remove the horizontal pipe, clean, flux, solder, test for leaks. It looks pretty accessible.

[AzNightmare]

JB WELD,

shut off the water and make sure it's as dry as possible before applying it.

Something like this?
J-B Weld Waterweld Epoxy Putty | Canadian Tire (http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/jb-waterweld-0383792p.html#.U9grEvldXwo)




DIY is simple enough though. All you really need is a propane torch, flux, solder and some emery cloth. Drain the line, remove the horizontal pipe, clean, flux, solder, test for leaks. It looks pretty accessible.

:heckno:
For someone who has no knowledge of plumbing or metalwork, that actually sounds like a lot of work, not to mention, I don't have any of those tools/items. I might consider if the pipe was spraying water out, but it's only a minor drip. Like 1 drip every 60 seconds.

When I get home, I'll try to take a "zoomed-out" picture, so you guys can tell me what this pipe even leads to. It's connected to a gray metal can though. And the dripping (for how ever long it happened for) rusted the can.


To be honest, I don't even know where to look for the shutoff valve, but I guess I can probably figure it out once I'm there looking at it...

[HKS PWR]

That looks like a leak at the 90degree elbow on the return for the boiler (the heated water that's gone through the system and being returned back to the boiler to be reheated).

1) You need to locate the shutoff valve and turn the water off. It is usually placed before the boiler feed valve/pressure reducing valve (the mechanism on the left in your picture). Turn off boiler or set to "pilot".
2) Drain the system so that you can work on it
3) Since you don't have plumbing tools, you're best bet for DIY would be using Sharkbite fittings. Just cut out the leaking 90degree joint with a hacksaw and install the new fittings
4) Turn shut off back on and check for leaks
5) Flush system out to get rid of air

I wouldn't worry too much about the gray can (expansion tank) It's just there to accommodate for the thermal expansion of the heated water.

[tiger_handheld]

As seen on SharkTank - FiberFix | FiberFix (http://www.fiberfix.com/)

[nabs]

ultimately I agree with IceBoy, its a small problem that will grow into a HUGE problem if not taken care of promptly. This is one of those things.

[AzNightmare]

So which valve switch should I be touching?
And what does that pipe do?

http://oi60.tinypic.com/m8pnc3.jpg

The leak is coming from the elbow joint (white circle).
Gross rust on that can... must have been leaking for quite some time.
Ignore the bucket, I just put that there last night when I found out about the leak.

[fliptuner]

#4 is the main shutoff

[AzNightmare]

#4 is the main shutoff

So turn #4, and leave the rest untouched?

And once #4 has been switched. How does that affect the water system for the rest of the house? Or does it? Just curious, in case I need to let others know what's going on while I'm working on it.

[HKS PWR]

You need to turn off #2 to isolate the boiler to work on the leak.

#4 is the main shut off for the whole house. You will have no domestic water (water for the toilet, shower, kitchen etc.) and the sprinkler system will not work if you turn it off.

#1 is the dual check valve/boiler feed/pressure reducing valve. Leave this alone.

[meme405]

Duct Tape.

Fucking Noobs.

:troll:

[AzNightmare]

So I turned valve 2 and it didn't seem to do anything, at least I couldn't see it affecting anything.

The leaky pipe is connected to this thing:

http://oi58.tinypic.com/9q92j9.jpg
http://oi58.tinypic.com/3518j2e.jpg
http://oi60.tinypic.com/sm9es6.jpg


What is this thing??
There's some temperature switches and pressure gauge on it.
And an on/off button.

Would that shut off the water? Kind of hard to do any kind of work when the water is still flowing.

:concentrate:

I'm not sure how important is this thing or what it does, so I don't really feel comfortable playing around with it yet.


Duct Tape.

Fucking Noobs.

:troll:

It was the first thing I tried...
:fullofwin:

[blkgsr]

call a plumber, seriously don't fuck around with plumbing if you don't even know you cant put a clamp on copper pipe

[underscore]

So I turned valve 2 and it didn't seem to do anything, at least I couldn't see it affecting anything.

Shutting off the valve doesn't remove the water or the pressure from the pipe. Honestly you should probably call a plumber.

As far as the big white box, it says what it is right on the side:

"Gas-fired wall-mounted condensing boiler with modulating cylinder burner. For indoor use only"

I wouldn't muck around with anything to do with it until you're clear on how to properly shut off the gas to it and relight it when you're done.

[AzNightmare]

call a plumber, seriously don't fuck around with plumbing if you don't even know you cant put a clamp on copper pipe

CAN or CAN'T?
Not sure what kind of clamps are available for elbow leaks.

If this was a pinhole or something on a straight section, or even a joint with threads,
it would make more sense to me.

Welded elbow leak... I'll get a plumber...
"Thanks" all around for trying to help.

:okay:

[Lomac]

So I turned valve 2 and it didn't seem to do anything, at least I couldn't see it affecting anything.

The leaky pipe is connected to this thing:

http://oi58.tinypic.com/9q92j9.jpg
http://oi58.tinypic.com/3518j2e.jpg
http://oi60.tinypic.com/sm9es6.jpg


What is this thing??
There's some temperature switches and pressure gauge on it.
And an on/off button.

Would that shut off the water? Kind of hard to do any kind of work when the water is still flowing.

:concentrate:

I'm not sure how important is this thing or what it does, so I don't really feel comfortable playing around with it yet.




It was the first thing I tried...
:fullofwin:

Turning off the valve simply stops water flow coning in from the main. There's still going to be residual water pressure from the lines and tank...

[GLOW]

JB WELD,

shut off the water and make sure it's as dry as possible before applying it.

surprised no one made any jokes yet. RS has matured.
I'd be tempted to use that stuff but I'd be too concerned with water damage if something goes south which would cost a lot more than what looks like a 10min fix for a plumber. (you'll still get charged min. 2 hrs :troll:)

[stewie]

call a plumber, seriously don't fuck around with plumbing if you don't even know you cant put a clamp on copper pipe

go buy these
http://images.plumbersurplus.com/images/prod/6/Wheeler-Rex-WR-85-rw-9211-2608.jpg

wont even have to worry about touching the valve :ilied:






seriously, just call a plumber.

for safety's sake...if your going to attempt to work on your own house with 0 experience, make sure you know where the shut off to the inside of the house is.....and your shut off at property line just incase.

[Doubl3_H]

You have money for a viessmann, you have money for a service call....

For a quick and temporary fix, go buy some 1/2-3/4 gear clamps and get 1 MJ coupling. Take apart the MJ coupling, discard the stainless steel band, cut up the inner rubber band to your desired pipe that your clamping, wrap the smooth side of the rubber against the leaky pipe and then wrap the rubber with gear clamps.

Make sure you tighten the gear clamps gently until the leak stops.
Anymore questions PM me

[underscore]

As a side note since you don't seem too familiar with the systems in the house, make a tag for valve #4 labeling it the water main for the house since it doesn't have one and get the plumber to verify that's the water main. Do the same for the gas main, if something ever goes sideways you'll be glad those two are labelled.

[catalin]

There's a self sealing tape that works well with low pressures. I believe that I bought some a while a go from a Canadian Tire.

[dvst8]

get this for temp fix

Nashua Tape | Nashua Stretch & Seal Silicone Sealing Tape, Black, 1in x 10ft | Home Depot Canada (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/nashua-stretch-seal-silicone-sealing-tape-black-1in-x-10ft/959973)

[AzNightmare]

Leak fixed. :)

[ThomasWinfrey]

Contact with an expert for quick solution.

http://www.manorrenovations.com/

[neverLift]

get this for temp fix

Nashua Tape | Nashua Stretch & Seal Silicone Sealing Tape, Black, 1in x 10ft | Home Depot Canada (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/nashua-stretch-seal-silicone-sealing-tape-black-1in-x-10ft/959973)

This stuff works okay if you can get the area pretty dry, but I would only use it as a temporary measure while you wait for someone to come to properly fix it.