[freakshow]

Seems like there's been more track talk around here lately which is pretty cool..

So question, if you had 10-15k to buy or build a purpose built track car, how would you spend it and why?

Let's exclude driving lessons, cause we all need those, and lots of HPDE events have instructors to help people along. So purely the car/upgrades..
I'm hoping this can be more about general track car info, but for my purposes, I would be doing bigger tracks (not auto-x), and would prefer the car to be road legal so I don't need a trailer..

(yes, this is a selfish post as I'm planning on doing this next spring)

[hud 91gt]

Locost 7 - Build it how you want, and spend as little as you want. Take some of that 15g's, and buy a trailer and a hitch.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/381/3221/25951610005_large.jpg?v=1

[Manic!]

First one to say Miata.

[bananana]

Lol, car. The answer is obviously motorcycle.



(just fucking with you. in this case the answer is probably a miata)

[ncrx]

EF civic, eg civic, miata
light fun reliable ... look on sccaforums for STC/STS built civics/crx/miata's
u can have nearly track ready cars for about 5k

[320icar]

Yeah 15k gives you a crazy amount of options. You could do the typical miata, go for civics which are very competitive. Or maybe go out of the norm like a Mitsubishi galant or something.

Hell, you could even do a stripped Nissan pulsar gti-r. Awd with a ca18det. They can be had for 5k in good condition and could make it very reliable with the other dosh

[flagella]

You might be able to find an S2000 for that price, although may not be in a great shape.

[ncrx]

id avoid a gtir, they come with sr20det's
i own one.. they require a lot of effort to handle well
which i've spent a ton on

but power wise... have loads
i'd unload mine for 7 if u r interested

[jing]

K24 swap Miata

[fliptuner]

It depends on what type of racing you want to do.

Does it have to be street legal or will you use a trailer?

[TjAlmeida]

awd - Early Mitsubishi Evolution 1-3

fwd - EF through to EK Hatch

rwd - FC RX7 *hard to find a good shape turbo II* S14, Miata

[boatcaptain]

miata is always the answer :p

[RRxtar]

cbr600rr, pirelli supercorsa tires, and gear

[supafamous]

A NA Miata in decent shape runs about $5K with the 1.8L motor. Figure $2k for suspension, $1.5k for tires/wheels, $1K to fix up any motor issues and another $1.5K for rollbar and related equipment and you've got yourself a nice race car.

A NB will run an extra $3-4K while a NC will run you $13-15K.

[multicartual]

A NA Miata in decent shape runs about $5K with the 1.8L motor.



LOL 1.8

[snails]

if you go the civic route avoid the ef chassis as they are a hugeeeee pain when it comes to the engine bay and some suspension components. if i was to build a civic racecar of any of the years it would be an eg as parts are abundant, lots of stuff is interchangeable and the engine bay and fenders welcome a much larger parts

but then you need to accept the eg for the ugly ugly hatch it is

or get a miata.. but u also have to accept the torment that comes with owning one

get ready for gay pride parade jokes!

[freakshow]

It depends on what type of racing you want to do.

Does it have to be street legal or will you use a trailer?
I'm far from hardcore, so definitely prefer the car to be street legal, as I don't intend on getting a trailer.
I wasn't planning on doing auto-x, but more so hpde events at Mission, the Ridge, some other bigger tracks.. not sure if that changes all the miata suggestions or not..

[Lomac]

Miata is still a good choice, but unless you do an engine swap, you'll start noticing the lack of power on tracks that have longer straightaways. That said, a good corner muncher can definitely hold it's own against a car that has much more power, but limited handling.

[Shark Tank]

Clean DC2R 10k
JDM aftermarket parts 5k

There someone on revscene with a sick ITR he posted pics. Copy his build and you won't want to leave the track ever!

JIMHO!

[Traum]

Rule #1 for building a track car -- Don't. Just buy somebody else's track car where everything has already been built.

There is absolutely no way you can build the same car for the same amount of money that you spend on buying someone else's track car. The same holds true for race cars.

[duy-]

id buy a corolla and dump 15000 into it, have it preform at a 4000$ miata level if not lower, but thats just me. but if you want something fun with good drivers feedback...
1. miata
2. z2, rivals, re11a, z2 starspec, rs3
3. hp+, r4, ds2500, dtc60
4. super blue, rbf600
drive and enjoy, put the rest of the money towards seat time and it'll teach you how to build the car. armchair racing sucks.

[tofu1413]

Rule #1 for building a track car -- Don't. Just buy somebody else's track car where everything has already been built.

There is absolutely no way you can build the same car for the same amount of money that you spend on buying someone else's track car. The same holds true for race cars.

"bought, not built" :fuckthatshit:

[twitchyzero]

within your budget and looks fun to build...should be street legal too, it is in some states

http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201408/exomotors-exocet-by--10_800x0w.jpg

2014 Exomotive Exocet By Flyin' Miata - Driven | car review @ Top Speed (http://www.topspeed.com/cars/others/2014-exomotive-exocet-by-flyin-miatadriven-ar164765.html#main)

[Traum]

At a minimum, the Exocet can very likely be imported into Canada as a partial kit:

See last point in FAQ:
Flyin' Miata : The Exocet (http://www.flyinmiata.com/exocet/FAQ.php)

But there is no frickin way you'd want to drive that thing down the I5 to Pacific Raceway or the Ridge. :rofl:

[kchan]

i would be the first to say - choose a car you really like and work from that.

choosing a good platform is great and all - but being realistic if you dont even love the car to begin with - theres no point dumping more money into it.

none of us are professional racers or what not - so just choose something you'll like driving and enjoy the learning experience of tracking

[Noran]

Generally - starting off with good tires, brake fluid, and pads will get you through your first couple events. Learn the car and how it reacts and understand it's weaknesses. Look for solutions to the weaknesses. Research, test, and go from there.

Don't make the bed and then hate where the bed is. Realizing you've done things wrong sucks.

Also, it's hard to say xx is a good track car, car xy is better here, xz is better there. Buy a car that you'll get satisfaction from regardless of the lap time. Your lap times will gradually come down with seat time.

[white rocket]

RWD = Miata all day. Good entry price and tons of aftermarket support
FWD = EG,EK,DC2. Same as above with even more aftermarket support

[BoostedBB6]

dc2/dc5, miata, E36

If you want to have loads of fun on the track I don't really recommend the DC's as the FWD can be a downer at times however they have proven to be very capable on the track.

Miata is chea, light, simple and RWD. All the things you want in a little weekend track car.
E36 is a great car on track and there are loads of parts.

[boatcaptain]

June 8th - Ridge Motorsports Park NASA NW HPDE3 - YouTube

[trollguy]

miata is a GREAT car to learn how to DRIVE FAST. almost every miata driver i know are ridiculously great drivers.. (except one who's car keeps overheating.. i know you're out there ;) )

once you learn to drive fast though, stock form wont suffice anymore unless you're willing to put more money into it.. keep that in mind.

[multicartual]

E36 w/ 5.0 and T5

Dirt cheap engine and tranny
Dirt cheap parts for E36 body

[multicartual]

none of us are professional racers or what not - so just choose something you'll like driving and enjoy the learning experience of tracking


Next year I'm going to track my near-stock 5.0 powered E36


I bet a ton of shit will break. It will likely overheat, I'll probably fuck up my tires and cook the brakes too.


It's going to be fun as fuck!!!

[fliptuner]

I say start with a B swapped EG or Miata - both around 5-6k but the EG will more than likely have a few mods, whereas the Miata will come mostly stock.

[supremematt85]

AE86 GOD MACHINE

[SumAznGuy]

Euro Spec E36 M3.
Nice set of coil-overs
Brakes and tires.

Or maybe a K24 Miata with nice coil-overs and 275 R-comp tires.

I've done the fwd ITR bit. You have all the power and grip to keep up with 997 Turbo's in the corners, but come corner exit they start to pull on you because they have 400 extra ponies. :heckno:

[dvst8]

miata

[CorneringArtist]

Miata or if I really felt like it I want to swap a high revving 4AG into a Mk2 Golf GTI shell. Redundancy yes, but you can only do so much with the VW 16v before boost, and a VR6 seems a bit nose heavy for such a light body.

[multicartual]

Euro Spec E36 M3.
Nice set of coil-overs
Brakes and tires.


You'll spend too much time and money keeping that thing running.

If that engine ever blows up you'll spend more money to fix it than you would to build an entirely new E36 with a 5.0 and T5 with all of the necessary chassis reinforcements

5.0 + T5, all the money you save can go towards tires

If you blow up a 5.0 you can go to Surrey and trade a 6 pack of Kokanee and a handshake for a used motor

[Timpo]

Bauer Ltd (http://bauerltd.com/)

Price: $13,900.00

http://i.imgur.com/BQThAbH.jpg
http://blog.grabcad.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/SAM_2228.jpg
http://www.car-revs-daily.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Car-Revs-Daily.com-Bauer-Catfish-Flyin-Miata-Turbo-33-800x593.jpg
http://www.car-revs-daily.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Car-Revs-Daily.com-Bauer-Catfish-Flyin-Miata-Turbo-20.jpg

[Manic!]

You can buy a EK with a swap and other stuff for around 5k or less. (mine might be for sale) And that leaves you lots of money parts and spares.

[dared3vil0]

I would absolutely love a fox body track car.

Car: $5,000
Cheap 17x9.5's: $600
Nitto NT05 275/40/17: $700
Heads/cams/exhaust: $2,000
Eibach coilovers: $1,500
Sway bars/etc suspension: $700
Clutch: $1,000

Total: $11,500

$3,500 left over for repairs/more mods.

[underscore]

i would be the first to say - choose a car you really like and work from that.

For starters, this. If you aren't at least interested in the car nothing else matters too much.

As far as the car itself, I'd only spend about half your budget on the car to leave room for initial fixes and any future upgrades once you find out what the car is lacking for your driving style. I'd suggest getting something fairly common so that parts are easy to source on short notice and so that you have widespread aftermarket support. Lastly I'd suggest getting something that doesn't have a tonne of power in stock trim but has the potential for power adders down the road, you're better off driving a slow car fast than a fast car slow from a learning standpoint.

[Manic!]

Bauer Ltd (http://bauerltd.com/)

Price: $13,900.00



I got 14K. Hook it up.

[lowside67]

Next year I'm going to track my near-stock 5.0 powered E36

I bet a ton of shit will break. It will likely overheat, I'll probably fuck up my tires and cook the brakes too.
My old E36 LS1 managed to shear the driveshaft clean in half... about 10 laps after this video...
Oregon Raceway Park CCW - July 18 - YouTube

Lots of good advice in this thread already...

As a guy who has spent a lot of money in the pursuit of a love of driving fast, take it from me, a little planning can save you a lot of aggravation and expense.

The first thing is you need to truly identify what your goals are. It's all fine to say you want to just do some laps at a casual track day but many who start off that way decide they are interested in being competitive. However, many of them took a car they liked and modified to the track and then realized that they were totally screwed because they had started with the wrong platform, or had modifications that made it impossible to be competitive (classing). Spend a LOT of time thinking this through, because it makes a HUGE difference.

Then the second question is buy or build. For most people, the answer should be buy. Racecars are no different than streetcars in that parts are worth a tiny fraction of replacement cost when it's time to sell the car. However, this is an even bigger deal in racecars because modifications are often a much bigger part of the overall cost of the car. But for some people, and I fall in this category, building is the only option as a pre-done car doesn't exist in the way you want it. Side note... many guys say "well I can't afford to drop $xxx on a car right now so I'll just buy the car and mod it as I go." That's all fine and well but you are literally pissing money away just to have it a little faster. Get a loan and buy the built car, you'll save a bundle.

The third thing isn't really a question but rather a general comment. Most people, myself included, based their car choice on performance numbers - power, weight, etc. This doesn't really the paint the whole picture though. I took a highly competitive E36 with the stock motor that was quick and reliable and spent a small fortune turning it into a much faster car that was finicky, hard to drive, less competitive, and required a lot more maintenance and trust me - I regret it. The car was much more fun when it was slower.

Competition is key and having a car that you can drive without worrying about is important too. There are lots of guys out at autocross in turbo miatas that run slower lap times and are way less competitive than a well built NA one. In the early days before the V8, my E36 lapped Mission road course in the 1:17 - 1:18 range with only 190rwhp. Many cars with twice the power were lapping 5 seconds slower than this - a well sorted package goes a long way to achieving results.

Good luck
Mark

[white rocket]

^^thanked for the wise words but also that video. dude, that car looks like a handful :ahwow:

[multicartual]

In the early days before the V8, my E36 lapped Mission road course in the 1:17 - 1:18 range with only 190rwhp.


Yep I'm leaving the motor pretty much stock until I maximize the performance and reliability of the rest of the package


Sweet vid!

[freakshow]

Love this tips and suggestions in here.. I've taken my current (and previous) cars to the track, but still have a lot to figure out. I'm only planning this next spring, so I do have a bit of time to think about exactly what I want.

Currently sounds like an e36 or miata would be the best bet. I'm ok with buying instead of building, but I guess finding the right car to buy would be pretty tough, especially since, as mentioned, the cars get much harder to maintain and enjoy as they get further from stock.

I was also thinking of a DC2R, as mentioned by some people, but I'm not sure about the FWD platform.. but everything I hear says the DC2R will handle just as well as RWD cars, if not better (if the RWD car isn't balanced). Would love some more opinions on that..

Thanks for all the chat in here, keep it coming!

[fliptuner]

k20a2 civic hatchback (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/bnc/cto/4662305075.html)
92 honda civic hb H22 TURBO!!!!!!! (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/4615370839.html)

[boatcaptain]

freakshow are u interested in buyin a miata??im lookin to sell mine

[SumAznGuy]

k20a2 civic hatchback (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/bnc/cto/4662305075.html)
92 honda civic hb H22 TURBO!!!!!!! (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/4615370839.html)

I call.

1995 Mazda Miata !! SUPERCHARGED !! (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/4692108858.html)
Add $1000-1500 for some 15x8 wheels and 225 street tires.
$2000 upgrade to proper shortened coil-overs shocks.
$1K for roll bar and racing seat

Or

1994 1.8 Eng Eaton M62 Mazda Miata Supercharger (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rch/cto/4679250606.html)
Add wheels and tires

[fliptuner]

I call.

1995 Mazda Miata !! SUPERCHARGED !! (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/4692108858.html)
Add $1000-1500 for some 15x8 wheels and 225 street tires.
$2000 upgrade to proper shortened coil-overs shocks.
$1K for roll bar and racing seat

Or

1994 1.8 Eng Eaton M62 Mazda Miata Supercharger (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rch/cto/4679250606.html)
Add wheels and tires

I raise.

http://i.imgur.com/DUwpcjx.png?1?9835
:troll:

[SumAznGuy]

I raise.

http://i.imgur.com/DUwpcjx.png?1?9835
:troll:

I fold. I was bluffing.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p315/trickyd64/homer-poker.jpg

[lowside67]

The DC2R is a great first track car. The trick with most of these first track cars (Miata, DC2R, E36) is recognize their limitations (which is very high) and if you ever get to a point where you need more, sell the car and buy something faster. My E36 was absolutely brilliant up until I decided it needed to be faster than it reasonably could be, and then it was pretty mediocre. I should have sold the car and bought an E46 M3, a 911, a Z06, etc.

I haven't owned an ITR but I have some seat time in a few and they are incredibly rewarding cars to drive - they handle responsively, are reliable and predictable, and are quick enough to still be fun - a perfect car to actually learn to drive quickly in. My good friend had a supercharged ITR and it was a complete waste of time - not much faster and much more of a pain - always overheating, etc. Just buy a relatively stock car with a good suspension, good wheels/tires, and proper brake pads and you can lap all day.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/26986_407541408447_2283872_n.jpg?oh=0d01a4b13e51fc 0ecb557068252e09f3&oe=5485DDDF&__gda__=1420873454_5e300554f3dd63a213c51c89f210c2c a

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/23782_423884958447_1025451_n.jpg?oh=784dff0850c49b f93bb615ca62b495fc&oe=54CCC238&__gda__=1421509286_64fc8f0e5b20ea956a2449f9c13a262 e

This was my JDM B18C-R swapped EG. It was stripped down to 1950lbs, had a built motor with a standalone tuned by G5, DC2 brakes, complete suspension, and 15x10" wheels with huge Hoosier race tires. In theory, a killer car, but in reality, not that faster than an ITR which simply worked much better as a package. And way more expensive, much worse resale, and classed terribly if you actually want to be competitive.

I wish I had just waited and found a decent DC2R. :)

-Mark

[Zulu]

In my experience something you can buy for $15k might end up costing you an additional $20k when you start tracking it. Find sponsorship or make more money are my suggestions.

[white rocket]

I'll support the DC2R choice. It's a great car to learn on and get comfortable at speed with as it is very forgiving and predictable. Even in stock form with better tires and front brake pads it is still a potent little package. Upgrade as you progress as a driver. A thicker rear sway bar can really make the car rotate and front compliance bushings will help with high speed brake wobble at faster tracks. Honda reliability FTW!

I've had mine for over 10 years and starting tracking in '05 and cant think of another car to move into that isn't 4 times the price.

[Inaii]

Personally, I like the miata and the rx7 for track cars. I can only speak for AutoX and drag though, as I haven't done road courses yet.

[Rich Sandor]

I'm not going to recommend a specific car, because I am biased towards Porsches and Corvettes.

However, like Mark, I have "been there, done that" over the last 15 years and here are few things to consider that haven't been mentioned yet:


You don't want to trailer, but you want to go to Ridge/ORP etc - you'd better make sure your engine and transmission are BULLETPROOF. That means, no questionably modded cars AT ALL, because nothing sucks more than a $1000 tow from Oregon to BC due to a shitty /wiring/engine/turbo/tranny/ job by the previous owner.

Better be able to fit a few extra wheels/tires inside or on the roof, cuz driving on racing slicks across 2 states SUCKS, and driving across 2 states to do a track day on shitty street tires that will get prematurely worn also sucks!!! While I'm at it, buy a car for which you can actually find affordable performance tires for the wheels it comes with.

You're on a budget? Get a car that runs on regular or at least on 91 just fine. The expensive stuff gets REALLY expensive especially when racing and burning fuel at max rate.

Buy a car that is easy to get spare parts for locally. Don't buy a car where if an A-arm breaks at ORP you have to wait 6 months to get a replacement from Pennyfarthing UK.

Buy a car that the people you are tracking with also have, or know about, so when shit goes wrong they can actually help you on site.

Mostly importantly, if this is going to be a TRACK car, make sure you can destroy it, and walk away from it without being financially shattered. There is no insurance on the race track (except in some RARE cases) and even if you are a really really good driver, another asshole's oil leak can end your day with your car upside down.

Don't let any of that scare you away.

[underscore]

^ on the tow job front, be sure to get the top-tier BCAA coverage. The big perks being 6 tows/year, 2 can be up to 320km or 4 to 160km, and after 2 years they'll cover hotel and rental car costs up to X amount if you're more than 160km from home.

[westopher]

My old E36 LS1 managed to shear the driveshaft clean in half... about 10 laps after this video...
Oregon Raceway Park CCW - July 18 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgcQGFMaFHc)

Jesus fuck that is some awesome driving in an awesome car.
I'm loving my e36 on the track, and if I was going to build a track car, I'd buy a much shittier salvage titled e36 m3. Coils, sways, cage, pads and rotors and a few bolt ons and be plenty happy for a few years to come.

[SumAznGuy]

You don't want to trailer, but you want to go to Ridge/ORP etc - you'd better make sure your engine and transmission are BULLETPROOF. That means, no questionably modded cars AT ALL, because nothing sucks more than a $1000 tow from Oregon to BC due to a shitty /wiring/engine/turbo/tranny/ job by the previous owner.

Can I nominate this for post of the year?
After making the 10 hr drive down the I5 and across Oregon to ORPT, I blew up the motor on my ITR 10 minutes into the first session.
$200 USD to tow from the track to the a UHaul that was open on a sunday. By chance, they had a truck and dolly. 1 way for the truck and Dolly was $1000 USD.
10 hrs on the I5 with an F350 that had a bad steering wobble from 35 - 55 mph was not fun.

Also, he is bang on about the tires.

Another thing to consider. As you get older and wiser, you'll enjoy the comforts of AC, a quiet exhaust, and cruise control.

***edit***

I forgot to mention, my car also had an attempted break in when it was sitting outside the tow yard. I guess my race wheels and equipment in the back of the car seemed too good to the 300 people of Moro. Worst part is, they scratched the hell out of the car and ripped the weather strip on the door and didn't even get into my car.

[multicartual]

You don't want to trailer, but you want to go to Ridge/ORP etc - you'd better make sure your engine and transmission are BULLETPROOF. That means, no questionably modded cars AT ALL, because nothing sucks more than a $1000 tow from Oregon to BC due to a shitty /wiring/engine/turbo/tranny/ job by the previous owner.

Better be able to fit a few extra wheels/tires inside or on the roof, cuz driving on racing slicks across 2 states SUCKS, and driving across 2 states to do a track day on shitty street tires that will get prematurely worn also sucks!!! While I'm at it, buy a car for which you can actually find affordable performance tires for the wheels it comes with.

You're on a budget? Get a car that runs on regular or at least on 91 just fine. The expensive stuff gets REALLY expensive especially when racing and burning fuel at max rate.

Buy a car that is easy to get spare parts for locally. Don't buy a car where if an A-arm breaks at ORP you have to wait 6 months to get a replacement from Pennyfarthing UK.

Buy a car that the people you are tracking with also have, or know about, so when shit goes wrong they can actually help you on site.

Mostly importantly, if this is going to be a TRACK car, make sure you can destroy it, and walk away from it without being financially shattered. There is no insurance on the race track (except in some RARE cases) and even if you are a really really good driver, another asshole's oil leak can end your day with your car upside down.

Don't let any of that scare you away.


E36 with a 5.0

Cheapest parts you can get anywhere for the BMW body + Mustang drive train

Can fit rims and tires in the car OR build a small trailer to tow!

Can probably keep the 5.0 running on nail polish and spit

Can find someone locally at every track that probably raced the 5.0 engine for a decade

Can build for under 10k, if you crash it you can sell the drive train or use it for your next E36 body which you can pick up for next to fucking nothing:

1992 E36 BMW (http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/4657434856.html)

When you swap the engine out for a 5.0 you can sell the BMW engine and transmission and recover a bunch on the cost of the body

BMW differentials have room in them for extra fiction discs directly from the factory AND you can pick up another LSD diff with a wide range of gearing for under $400

If you blow up the engine or transmission you can easily source another one of either for under $500

[westopher]

I never thought I'd say this but Jason's 5.0 e36 post finally is the right one.

[freakshow]

I'm not responding a lot, but I am reading everything!

I really appreciate all the advice in this thread, i know sometimes it's hard to take the time to give advice when threads like these end up with the OP not following through about 95% of the time. Hopefully the advice here will be helpful to everyone, not just me.

Thanks to those that are offering up cars now, but I'm only planning this for next spring.. just trying to learn right now so I can plan properly.

Based on what was said here, it seems like a stock DC2R would be a great choice until I actually feel like I'm being limited by the car, and not by driving skill (which should be a while..)

[Suprarz666]

I don't have any track experience, but the MR2 popped into my mind.

Anyone have any input on MR2s for track duty?

[multicartual]

I don't have any track experience, but the MR2 popped into my mind.

Anyone have any input on MR2s for track duty?

Early 91 model has snap oversteer suspension problem


Every mr2 owner complains about leaks

[Traum]

In case anyone in this thread is interested, a friend is currently selling her track built B-Spec Ford Fiesta race car for $20k:


This will be the last weekend running my B-Spec Ford Fiesta! First offer for $19,888 takes it (over $35,000 invested). Come check it out this weekend at Mission Raceway Roadcourse in the Nixon Prosports pit.

Custom roll cage w/ Recaro Halo/Head-restraint racing seat
OMP 6 pt harness
Fire Supression System
Coil-Over Adjustable Ride Height Suspension
OMP Removable Steering Wheel
3 sets of Rota Slipstream charcoal black wheels
1 set of OZ wheels
2 sets of Toyo RR's
1 set of Toyo RA1's
1 set of BFG R-Compounds
K & N air filter
Extra Motul RBF 600 Racing Brake Fluid & Hawk DTC60 Brake Pads included
So tempting... This is why I was previously saying that the best way to get a track / race car is to buy someone else's.

[Vancouver240sx]

Some great advice from Rich and Mark on this thread!

What Rich said about finding something bulletproof was dead on; the more time you can spend on track the better. A lot of suggestions to do x car and do y swap, for a 1st 'track/race' car I think is a terrible idea. I rarely see those kind of builds at events, and when I do it isn't for long. KISS

Mark also had a fantastic point about identifying your goals! If you're hoping to compete in any way I suggest looking into rule books and attending events before jumping in with both feet!

IF you're interested in doing any real competition I highly recommend looking into karting, the best bang for buck wheel to wheel!

Check out my thread on kart racing in the PNW here:
http://www.revscene.net/forums/695400-4-stroke-karting-northwest-future-kart-team-journal.html

Rich

[mb_]

I don't have any track experience, but the MR2 popped into my mind.

Anyone have any input on MR2s for track duty?

No local MR2s are really taken out to the track :okay:

Will make it my goal to make it to at least a couple of track days next year when my car is all fixed though.

[Grim]

r6- 6000
full exhaust - 1000
ecu - 500
dyno tune - 500
misc accessories -750
fairing -1000
gear - 2000

lots of money left over?!
AWEEEEYEEEUUUUUUUUUUUUUH

[entrax]

Early 91 model has snap oversteer suspension problem


Every mr2 owner complains about leaks

sounds like me!

the twitchy suspension was all of 91 and 92, changed 93+

changing to the 93+ 30-width tire stagger greatly changes the predictability of the car compared to the 10-width stagger.

mine started leaking on my first autox event. :pokerface:

i would say miata > mr2 for a lot of things...coming from an mr2 owner. unless you bring in the first gen supercharged.

[underscore]

^ as much as I love MR2's I wouldn't get one for a track car, those engine bays are a huge hindrance when trying to fix something quickly. Even something like loosing a bit of coolant becomes a pain because you have to burp the system from 3 places, and 2 are under the car.