[murd0c]

So I bought a house in Mission (so far but I have a big ass house for way cheaper then the lower mainland) in the process of gutting the kitchen for a new one and this is the progress over the last couple of weekends.

the kitchen was so ghetto lol

https://s13.postimg.org/wsed99dfr/14980704_10155425686008452_4218189678222476045_n.j pg

https://s15.postimg.org/jhic2ad1n/15109371_10155448919618452_2382646249748453164_n.j pg

This was a shitty built in pantry we are getting custom made

https://s22.postimg.org/z1u2qwmxt/15078589_10155425686108452_390636044501584954_n.jp g[/img

[img]https://s11.postimg.org/xyd1do2pf/15036758_10155425685978452_5951287992167037506_n.j pg

Taking this door out so we can put the fridge where it was and run more cabinets

https://s13.postimg.org/eqpjlr95j/15095512_10155425686858452_568539712452222510_n.jp g

https://s13.postimg.org/5fsdpgtyf/14993329_10155425686643452_1636314728533951568_n.j pg

it's going to be ghetto living for the next 3-4 weeks sadly

https://s12.postimg.org/5f1n6jpct/15134645_10155448919513452_7511686268955699903_n.j pg

Picked up a tankless hot water unit and new furnace so we are removing this portion of wall and venting so we can upgrade to a custom 58" vanity from a 48" which is whats currently there

https://s11.postimg.org/nbf6pab77/14925231_10155425685893452_7389844884954853694_n.j pg

https://s18.postimg.org/7345bks89/15135940_10155448919563452_5912639113874373779_n.j pg

The wall next to the pantry, I moved the gas line to the middle cause the idiots had the stove right next to the pantry wtf..

https://s21.postimg.org/ri6x767sn/14690928_10155347316923452_940375853542730277_n.jp g

I had a 8 person hot tub I decided to cut up as well because it was old and sucked. The thing was massive and its going to add so much more deck space

https://s11.postimg.org/ydgd31fkz/15056371_10155425686363452_2192772001716927179_n.j pg

https://s16.postimg.org/g72dpk2v9/15078586_10155425686423452_3273856514619317204_n.j pg


This work is all the past 2 Saturday's, we have all new appliances coming in on Dec10th and hopefully the custom cabinets and counter tops will arrive that time as well. Going to leave the flooring bare for now since we are going to run the same hardwood in the entire upstairs of the house.

Going to hopefully be a pimp setup once done but fuck its a lot of work in such a short period of time. Going to get on it more this weekend which I might scrape the ceiling in the kitchen and dining room cause who likes that popcorn shit.

The New tankless and furnace are so fricken nice

https://s15.postimg.org/ctp1i28ff/14064167_10153849434865741_3476850510711273413_n.j pg

[Hondaracer]

i was considering making a similar thread as we are renovating our house right now as well.. ours is 108 years old though so yea.. it's been a bit different to say the least lol.

Hope you're wearing respirators in the demo, house looks like a prime candidate for asbestos if you havent had it checked out already.

How much did the on-demand water set you back? my plumber (who i had never used before, was a referall who would come to Van) was trying to push a Rinai system on me, as i had to use a direct or power vent system because i no longer want to vent out my chimney. the on demand he was pushing was gonna be like $3600+ installed. I managed to get a 50 gallon power vented tank for $1100 taxes in, So imo didnt make much sense to go tankless as if the tankless had cost me $0 per year, it would still take 11 years to pay off the difference.

edit* looks like you've got a similar situation we were in with those stupid powered pumps for the furnace condenser? you using that because there was no floor drain where the mechanical is located? That was our situation so i ended up jackhammering out the slab to put in a floor drain, was a pain in the ass but peice of mind considering all our mechanical is going to be located within the suite.

[murd0c]

the house was built in 71 and thankfully zero asbestos was around since it has been reno'd a couple times over the years.

The tankless was about $3500.00 installed, the direct vent tank was going to be about $2500.00 so spending the extra $1000.00 for the tankless unit was the only way to go and it freed up space since it was in a shitty location where the suite is going to be and of course gives us that extra space for the bathroom which was needed for the extra vanity space. The main thing I like about the tankless is that theres zero tank and it comes with a 10 year warranty on it, its expected to last 15-20 years rather then 8 years for a normal HW tank so with that and the money savings that's really the only option to go with if you are planning to live at your place for a while.

No floor drain but the condenser pump is perfect for my situation, I'm thinking about digging it up down the road since the bathroom is up a foot but right now I mainly want to focus on the kitchen since it's such a large project for a 4 week window.

[murd0c]

Ended up going with this range and damn I'm excited to be able to cook with it.

PCGS950SEFSS - GE Appliances (http://www.geappliances.ca/en/products/cooking/ranges/applproducts/PCGS950SEFSS)

and of course had to go with the matching fridge and dishwasher

PFE24JSKSS - GE Appliances (http://www.geappliances.ca/en/products/refrigeration/refrigerators/applproducts/PFE24JSKSS)

PDT660SSFSS - GE Appliances (http://www.geappliances.ca/en/products/dishwashing/dishwashers/applproducts/PDT660SSFSS#tab-Overview)


One thing I didn't add since we have a suite downstairs we are going to be putting our laundry in the kitchen as well on the left side kinda next to the microwave in a custom pantry cabinet. I wasn't all that much of a fan doing it that way but we don't have too many options and it's going to be nice having the laundry so close.

[ilovebacon]

would love to see more before and after pictures!

[Hondaracer]

Yea as long as you're not burying the condenser it doesn't really matter. I had to drywall over the route it took to the drain so wanted to get rid of it.

What's nice about on demand as well as it only fires up to whatever BTU it needs to recover the used water as opposed to firing up to 40,000 BTU every time like a traditional tank.

Your Reno sounds fairly similar to ours lol. Since our suite is going in our washer and dryer will be in the kitchen as well

[murd0c]

Here's a couple more before pictures since the ones I posted were shitty. The cupboards are going to be running on the left and around L shape by the back window and on the wall where the book shelf is.



https://s14.postimg.org/j2h7xrndt/image1.jpg

https://s13.postimg.org/qo2c7yz5z/image2.jpg

https://s21.postimg.org/reqinswhz/image3.jpg

[Hondaracer]

Yea old setup was pretty terrible lol

[m3thods]

^ In the first pic- is that a tile countertop?? :suspicious:

[murd0c]

Yea old setup was pretty terrible lol

oh it was nasty before and so hard to cook with


^ In the first pic- is that a tile countertop?? :suspicious:

you don't like my bathroom tile countertops? I was going to go back with that style but decided to go with Quartz instead :pokerface:

[blkgsr]

i hope you have better luck with your GE dishwasher than i did.....mine was a month old and failed (circuit board and the over flow shut off) and it get filling for 12 hours while we were away.

flooded my basement

mine was also the top of the line unit at the time....looks like the one you got

[murd0c]

wow that's not good at all, what did GE do about the warranty and damage or did you have to go through home insurance?

I read a number of reviews that were not the greatest about the dishwasher but nothing even close to that bad.

[Hondaracer]

In my experience building multi family units (town homes and low rise) dishwashers are always the biggest problem in terms of failures and replacements. It's not even close.

My boss had a $3200 DW and it failed in the first two years, no warsntee replacement.

Imo best thing to do is go deep into the consumer reports page on the model and read everything there is about it

Samsungs are seemingly the worst of the bunch

[Ferra]

lol at that sharp edge on the countertop...


I did the kitchen myself...everything ikea except for the appliance and countertop.
The cabinet ends up costing around $5000.
I rip out the builder original kitchen set(including sink & cheap granite countertop) and sold it on kijiji for $3000 tho :lawl:
https://s15.postimg.org/ieg4wienv/Full_Size_Render.jpg

I finished around 90% of the kitchen so it is "functional" like 9 months ago...been too lazy to finish to remaining trims and backsplash since. FailFish

[Ferra]

FWIW, i got a bosch dishwasher (forgot model #) on sale for $499.
Only used it a few times, but I also used a bosch DW at my last place for 6 years and never had any leak before.

I always got the impression DW usually leak due to bad water line connection during the install or people moving it around.

[Ferra]

If you dont' need gas, think about getting an induction cooktop.
I didn't know what I want so I got a cooktop with both induction and gas
https://s21.postimg.org/dp5puta9j/7_371_1.jpg

It was expensive($3.8K), but I think if I get another chance, I would go with a plain induction cooktop. I find myself using the induction side 95% of the times.
A plain induction cooktop is also going to be much easier to clean and about half the price.

[murd0c]

Nice looking kitchen Ferra, I paid 3x that for mine white shaker solid wood doors and plywood inside. All cabinets and drawers are soft closing of course and white quartz counter tops which should be showing up mid Dec so I have to get the entire kitchen prepped for that.

Had my electrician come in last night about the wiring and this weekend I'm going to rip off all the drywall on all the walls so it will be easier for him to rewire everything since the wiring is shitty and I want to add a whole lot a new outlets.

My dining room is right off the kitchen and this is the lightings I decided to go with since I've always been a fan of the Edison style and I will have two matching pendants same style in the kitchen as well.

https://s11.postimg.org/h01wczyr7/image1.jpg

[blkgsr]

wow that's not good at all, what did GE do about the warranty and damage or did you have to go through home insurance?

I read a number of reviews that were not the greatest about the dishwasher but nothing even close to that bad.

home insurance....GE came out and "fixed it", then it started leaking from the door, but i wasn't home when that started happening during the 1st year so they won't do anything about it

in the summer we were using it and one of the hoses on the bottom ripped and GE again refused to do anything about it....mother fuckers

[murd0c]

wow what complete BS, hopefully this model is much better but you think spending that kinda money on a Dishwasher the quality would be second to none.

[underscore]

Modern appliances sketch me out, in my parents previous house the fridge leaked twice, the dishwasher leaked once, the washing machine shook itself apart, the first stove had the control panel die and the second had the door explode. They were all under 5 years old and from big brand names.

Now after my kitchen renos ~2 years ago I still don't full trust our new appliances lol.

[Great68]

Appliances are built so shitty these days. I remember growing up my parents had the same old dishwasher, fridge & stove for 30 years and not had a single problem.
They upgraded about 5 years ago to "new & modern", and they've already had to replace the dishwasher once, and repair the stove within those 5 years.

Total Garbage.

[Hondaracer]

Everything is just built to break these days

[ilovebacon]

sold old kitchen stuff for 3000$, spend another 2gs on top for a better one. nice!

[murd0c]

I think with appliance's they suck these days to all the tech that is in them, back in the day the fridges were basic but now everyone wants all of this lighting and options it's easier to break especially with Dishwashers.

[punkwax]

It's not just the lights.. companies learned if they build stuff too well they lose out on recurring revenue.

I'm in Hondaracer's camp. Most everything is designed to fail after 7-10 years or sooner these days. Gotta keep the economy going!

[highfive]

Nice fridge Ferra!

All appliances or anything nowadays will break sooner or later. Best to buy warranty. Keep in mind your visa provdes you with one extra year I think.

I have a Rinnai at my parents house for 10 years and still working. One issue is that it'll take a long time for hot water to arrive. Combining it with a hw tank will help it apparently. You can take hot water from the tank and have the tankless refill the hot water inside. That's pretty much the set up for most new houses in Vancouver.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

Price is around $3500.

Check Emco and see how much the boilers cost. I don't think they sell rinnai but they do sell veissmann and few other brands.

Ikea is the go to cabinets if you can put it in yourself. One door scratched or break later on? Just replace it. Everything will look brand new when you sell it.

[Hondaracer]

That's why I'm leaning towards IKEA for our kitchen even though I'm not entirely sold on the overall build quality.

I've dealt with enough cabinet companies, and even "big" ones like Canterbury etc where if you need a replacement door it takes fucking FOREVER, like a development of 100 units it takes 3 weeks to get a fucking door there are 250 of on the site...

As you said, IKEA, you fuck somthing up? Walk in and buy the exact same part no hassle

[murd0c]

I bought my cabinets from a new company called Prime Kitchen in Poco, life time warranty and the pricing was perfect. I like how the doors are solid wood and they are using 3 hinges instead of two.

[Hondaracer]

ill add to the thread as this is more of a one-time post until i really ramp up and do my kitchen, most likely next summer.

the people who reno'ed this house and put in a new foundation did a piss poor job as they seemingly jacked up the house and excavated a few inches of material out in order to pour the new foundation slab.. they should have gone another foot deeper and it could have been a regular height ceiling.. anyways, i have plenty of gripe with the people who did work on this house prior to me..

So.. this structural beam was put in place seemingly to support the joists of the main floor when the house was lifted and placed back down on the new walls.. shitty thing is with the height of the basement floor, this beam was right at head level for the main "living" area which will eventually be the suite.

So decided to install a flush beam to gain that headroom, it was a bit of a process and you never know what to expect dealing with a 100+ year old home, but it went relatively smoothly and i'm happy with the results:

before:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/88C528F4-0F60-41B9-A955-D901B31A0455_zpshaqdo1ow.jpg~original

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/B9E9E737-ED2C-42A1-A815-D2796AE65BA4_zpsxwonn1up.jpg~original

it begins:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/5FEB7018-07DF-4F4C-8B84-AEAD89CE602E_zpsztjcmocy.jpg~original

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/19E16554-60C4-44F6-9215-F41747F6DEA9_zpsonzezcuk.jpg~original

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/08236A6D-DE2A-4375-AF14-8510BBCC507A_zpsx6kmbtpa.jpg~original

ended up doubling up all the joists in question as my kitchen is going to be sitting right overhead, i dont know if the floor was as fucked as it was prior to this, but whenever i put down new flooring i have about a 3/4" dip over 4 feet around this beam lol.. if anything this improved the situation so it has seen some settling in the past 100 years

[murd0c]

wow you must of snapped when you found that out, at least you are doing it right but talk about a large unexpected expense.

[fliptuner]

I don't know what you guys are talking about. The life expectancy of my dishwasher is just over 81 years.

:lawl:

[yray]

old houses might be a PIA for an ikea kitchen

source: i got fired from ikea kitchens

references :iceboy, merro and smoothie :troll:

[murd0c]

the place I bought my cabinets from actually beat the Ikea kitchen pricing and they have a special but the cabinets and you get free quartz countertops which was beyond wicked.

Just received an email from the company last night and they are shipping next week so they will be here before xmas.

[Ferra]

That's why I'm leaning towards IKEA for our kitchen even though I'm not entirely sold on the overall build quality.

I've dealt with enough cabinet companies, and even "big" ones like Canterbury etc where if you need a replacement door it takes fucking FOREVER, like a development of 100 units it takes 3 weeks to get a fucking door there are 250 of on the site...

As you said, IKEA, you fuck somthing up? Walk in and buy the exact same part no hassle
I actually compare a few custom kitchen places.
The drawers and hardware in ikea kitchen cabinet actually seems much nicer than many other custom kitchen shops I checked. (smooth and solid) Many of those places charge a lot more as well.
There is no comparison vs the builder standard cabinet i got.

Few downside going with ikea...custom sizing is a bitch. I have "non-standard" fridge, so to get the cabinet above the fridge, I have to modify the standard cabinet by trimming it down and redrilling the holes.
The door for them also needs to be cut/routered and the edge repainted. (hence why the door are still missing in my kitchen :pokerface:)

For the top cabinet, I didn't like the 45' angle at the corner they offer, so I had to modify the standard stuffs to get a straight 90' corner.

For ikea kitchen, the door choice significantly affects the prices. Good thing I wanted a simple painted white cabinet which is fairly cheap. Some of the other door choice would double the cabinet cost (from $5K -> $10K)
If i wanted something $10K from ikea, i would probably go with a custom kitchen shop and have them install it. (Most place quoted around $10-14K for my kitchen cabinets, incl. install)

One thing I love too is the cabinet built-in lighting. The drawer would light up when you open them.

Feel free to ask if anyone is doing or thinking of doing their kitchen. There are certainly a few things I wished I had know before i started.

[Ferra]

Also, if you are picky. Make sure you get a "counter depth" fridge.
I had no idea what that was when i started, and I bought a standard 36" samsung fridge with lots of volume.
Turns out the fridge is huge because it stuck out from my cabinet like 10" (They got all those extra space with more depth). It looks horrible, so I got the electrolux all fridge that is the same depth as my countertop.

And FYI, these are some approximate cost for the whole kitchen:

Ikea Cabinet $5K
Quartz Countertop $5K (expensive..but I actually got a pretty good deal already, there are almost 120sqft of countertop, they had to use 3 full slab to make the countertop incl. the waterfall side on the island, the island top itself is a whole slab @ 4'x10')
Ikea Double oven $1.5K (lol tbh, this is more for decoration. Haven't used it once.)
Electrolux fridge+freezer $4K
Bertazzoni Cooktop $4K (definitely overpaid here, don't think it is worth the high price, i could've got a simple induction for $1.5K)
Costco Range Hood $250 (I got it on kijiji from some guy's truck, new but probably returned item)
Chinese Sink from Lowes $300
Chinese Faucets from HD $200

[Ferra]

the place I bought my cabinets from actually beat the Ikea kitchen pricing and they have a special but the cabinets and you get free quartz countertops which was beyond wicked.

Just received an email from the company last night and they are shipping next week so they will be here before xmas.
congrat
I lived on plywood and no kitchen for almost a 3 weeks when I was doing the reno.
the good thing about hiring someone to do the work is, they will finish it completely before they leave.
I have a shitty habit of doing 90-95% of the work and leaving the rest when i DIY

i started to doing my closet (ikea too) last month before my kitchen was even finished :derp:
https://s18.postimg.org/cd4u9n2h5/Full_Size_Render_2.jpg

[underscore]

For kitchen cabinets we got ours through Rona, they were made by some company in Quebec. I don't remember the exact brand but they were built and arrived 2 weeks early, even though Christmas was in between when we ordered them and when we got them. Installing them ourselves required some creativity to get everything to line up properly since no house is ever built square.

I have a shitty habit of doing 90-95% of the work and leaving the rest when i DIY

i started to doing my closet (ikea too) last month before my kitchen was even finished :derp:

It's been nearly 2 years since I did my kitchen and I still haven't finished it 100% :lol

[murd0c]

congrat
I lived on plywood and no kitchen for almost a 3 weeks when I was doing the reno.
the good thing about hiring someone to do the work is, they will finish it completely before they leave.
I have a shitty habit of doing 90-95% of the work and leaving the rest when i DIY

i started to doing my closet (ikea too) last month before my kitchen was even finished :derp:
https://s18.postimg.org/cd4u9n2h5/Full_Size_Render_2.jpg

nice looking clean closet, I like how it matches the floor as well. I bought a custom closet for my master and spare bedroom as well and had it painted black to match my bedroom set.

it was actually pretty cheap to have the cabinets, countertops and the master closet organizer installed $1200.00 and we didn't have to pay PST which was $950 so it's close to breaking even. I just wanted to go that route to save the hassle since we are already spending so much cash.

Shit is stressful when it happens so quick but I can't wait until it's completed.

[blkgsr]

nice closet....what's the quality of the wood?

standard shit mdf they use for most of the furniture or is it proper hardboard?

[Ferra]

nice closet....what's the quality of the wood?

standard shit mdf they use for most of the furniture or is it proper hardboard?
ikea ain't giving u solid wood lol:fuckthatshit:
I am happy it is mdf and not cardboard (i had 1 of their TV cabinet before, i broke it when i step on it and inside is literally cardboard...)

It is more or less the same mdf and veneer you find in the most of their furniture.
I like it cause when i put their panel against my wood floor, it matches almost exact. (White washed oak)

I did an L-Shape in my walk in closet (12x8)
I think after everything it was about $1100. The drawers are the expensive part. I have 16 drawers and each one is about $35-$40.
So if you are okay with hanger and shelves you can probably do it at half the cost.

[Hondaracer]

imo it's hard to beat the look for the price of Ikea in building a closet like that

to have custom solid wood stuff built it would be 10k+ for a closet like that.. Hell, for the most part fancy looking closets are build out of solid MDF with a veneer anyways.. just a higher step up from ikea for 5-10 times the price.

[highfive]

Ikea mdf is still better than local cabinet guys. Their board are veneered around the front. So it's not sharp on the corners.

Basically you can get a pretty cheap cabinet anywhere locally. They all buy doors from a 3rd party. They only build the boxes, stain/paint, assemble and install.

Ikea only gets expensive if you end up going with Modus to install it and not do it yourself.

[yray]

Ikea is money when you get drawers.

I know some people that buy kitchen boxes from Ikea and got a carpenter to do custom doors.

[murd0c]

I can't stand Ikea for anything especially kitchen cabinet's which get so much abuse with the non-stop opening and slamming. That being said if you are looking to flip a house then they are perfect.

[yray]

but that 10 year warranty :troll:

The drawer front will fail before those blum drawer rails and hinges fail. Ikea kitchens is in a different realm compared to the rest of Ikea. They design the line and will milk it for 25+ years before switching to a modified new product line.

[murd0c]

That's not bad if that's a case but I still don't trust the products. and what's a 10 year warranty when I get a life time warranty as long as I keep the house :troll:

[Ferra]

I think the ikea kitchen stuffs should hold up pretty well.
Aside from the hardware feeling really sturdy to me...they also display their kitchen cabinet in their showroom, with hundreds of people banging on it everyday and they seem to hold up for years, even the drawer auto-light. (I recall seeing the same kitchen cabinet in their showroom for at least 2-3 years, unless they secretly fix them when we don't notice lol)

The painted MDF door i picked certainly doesn't feel durable (hence why it was one of the cheapest choice, their laminate door feel much harder tho), but I liked the look. FYI I had a painted solid wood maple door from the builder. It really doesn't feel anymore durable than the painted mdf. Both will ding and nick quite easily)
I damaged one during the install by dropping a screwdriver on it. But it costs me $10 to buy a new one off the shelf.

I actually like the original kitchen I had from the builder, but the cost to "extend" it from the original kitchen company was more than buying a whole new set from ikea.
Before pic:https://s13.postimg.org/yqdyin2s7/IMG_5762.jpg

[murd0c]

wow its a massive difference, very nice choice with what you went with and it explains why you were able to sell it for $3000.00

[Hondaracer]

That's not bad if that's a case but I still don't trust the products. and what's a 10 year warranty when I get a life time warranty as long as I keep the house :troll:

yea but your warantee is kind of like a roofing warantee.. unless you're dealing with a bigger company who's to say they will even be around to honor it.

The kitchen in our apartment is 30 years old and had some of the dumbest hinges i've ever seen.. melamine doors but euro style hinge install.. all still works though so i'd say in general shit can last if you treat it right

[murd0c]

started work today at 830 and just finished. Ended up tearing off all the drywall in the kitchen, ripped up some of the floor, plumed in the dishwasher and dryer full and got the pet pipe setup for once the cabinets are installed.

The last two pics are of my basement ceiling, I had to rip down all the drywall so the electrician can feed the wires through easier.

Not bad for a days work I think and just think all of these work has been done the last 3 Saturdays. Going to Calgary next weekend so thankfully I have a short break after today.


The kitchen floor sucks, theres lino, then particle board which is of course nailed down with tons of nails all over and then more lino underneath that.

https://s11.postimg.org/hfz177n7n/image.jpg

https://s11.postimg.org/ho63npbj7/image.jpg

https://s15.postimg.org/emuajco3v/image.jpg

https://s15.postimg.org/qrp1c29l7/image.jpg

https://s16.postimg.org/mp14nthd1/image.jpg

https://s11.postimg.org/ssbv4sj1f/image.jpg

[yray]

https://imgur.com/gallery/mVm0J

on reddit today... ikea cabinets :lawl:

[murd0c]

at least the owner seems like he's smart enough to know the correct procedure but man talk about a total bitch. I'm kinda tempted to put plywood up instead of drywall since the walls are bare and that would completely make sure that would ever happen no matter where they hang them.

Just gonna answer some questions that people have.
My boyfriend owns the apartment, it is in a co-op. We hired a licensed contractor to come in and do all of the work (complete gut renovation), and the contractor's insurance was approved by the co op before he could come in and do anything. We live in an older building that is entirely concrete, the walls are made of metal lath and plaster and no studs. Some (like this wall) were replaced by our contractor and are drywall. It IS possible to anchor heavy objects with certain anchor bolts, but obviously he did not use the right ones. He did not advise us to change the construction of the walls,we weren't even living in the apartment at the time of the renovation. Everything was finished about 5 months ago.
We're currently seeking legal advice before we move forward.
Oh, and yes, I'm physically fine, just minor cuts and bruises.

[yray]

^thats what they do at the ikea demo kitchens. Plywood and drywall and lots of GRK screws.

[CRS]

Any companies you would recommend for excavating a crawl space?

The bottom floor of my house has the garage + crawl space. Looking to excavate probably 600 sq.

[murd0c]

I'm thinking of getting LED strip lighting for under my cabinets and I'm wondering if you guys can recommend them?

I found this site that seems pretty legit but I don't know anything about them at all and don't want to waste money on a cheap piece of shit.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/complete-led-strip-kits/under-cabinet-led-lighting-kit-complete-led-light-strip-kit-for-kitchen-counter-lighting/1426/

[Hondaracer]

5/8 ply behind your cabinets mounted on the studs you'd be laughing.

[murd0c]

I would have to go 1/2" since that's what my drywall is I'm not taking out.

[Hondaracer]

that LED kit looks pretty decent.. id say just get your electrician to run the wires everywhere you need then you'll pretty much be set for however you want to do it..

I'm not going to be doing my kitchen till the spring/summer so essentially ran home runs into the base cabinets and then leads up into the uppers so i can mount everything when the time comes.. bit more hassle but it should work out in the end

[underscore]

I'm thinking of getting LED strip lighting for under my cabinets and I'm wondering if you guys can recommend them?

I found this site that seems pretty legit but I don't know anything about them at all and don't want to waste money on a cheap piece of shit.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/complete-led-strip-kits/under-cabinet-led-lighting-kit-complete-led-light-strip-kit-for-kitchen-counter-lighting/1426/

I know a lot of people buy automotive LEDs from them, they're supposed to be quite good but a bit pricey. I'd buy a couple spares in case one burns out in the future, that way you're not having to try and hunt down a replacement that's the same colour.

[murd0c]

thankfully I don't need close to 16' so that roll should be way more then enough with lots of spare.

[Great68]

I think SuperBrightLED's is pretty reputable as a retailer.
That kit though, looks like a basement home-build.
Lack of ULC (website only shows UL) might be an issue if you're getting your electrical work inspected...

[murd0c]

I'm going to install them after the electrical work is inspected but no question I would like to go with ULC just so I can cover my ass.

[Great68]

I don't know your budget, but this legrand Undercabinet lighting, electrical outlet and accessory track system is pretty baller:

adorne® Under-Cabinet Lighting System | Legrand (http://www.legrand.ca/adorne/undercabinet-series.aspx)

[Hondaracer]

lol that looks brutal to have to plug in the system to an outlet.. would drive me crazy.

also i really dont care for puck lights under cabinets unless they are completely recessed

[underscore]

lol that looks brutal to have to plug in the system to an outlet.. would drive me crazy.

also i really dont care for puck lights under cabinets unless they are completely recessed

It makes it easier to control and replace though. Just add an outlet inside a cabinet, then have that outlet hooked to a switch.

[Hondaracer]

yea.. i guess.. never been a fan of that module type lighting/system i've seen it in a few different applications

i also dont really get how some people are do adament about hiding their counter plugs, i think just a standard wall plate on your backplash looks fine, and you dont need a valance etc. to hide a big bar under the uppers

[underscore]

I would've loved to have added some of these, had I known about them before I did my kitchen.

https://www.amazon.com/Pulling-Tabletop-110-220V-Meeting-Geckone/dp/B017QZQAOG

[MelonBoy]

https://imgur.com/gallery/mVm0J

on reddit today... ikea cabinets :lawl:

Reason why you DONT use drywall anchors for cabinets. Shoulda cut out the drywall in a long trench, added backing, place back the drywall. Wouldnt even bother to fill/putty since the cabinet would be coming it anyways lol


I'm thinking of getting LED strip lighting for under my cabinets and I'm wondering if you guys can recommend them?

I found this site that seems pretty legit but I don't know anything about them at all and don't want to waste money on a cheap piece of shit.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/complete-led-strip-kits/under-cabinet-led-lighting-kit-complete-led-light-strip-kit-for-kitchen-counter-lighting/1426/


I picked up LED strips for my company here and installed them in a clients kitchen(under the cabinets/lighting up the counter)
LED Lighting Wholesale Supplier | LED bulbs & fixtures (http://www.lumenstarled.com/)

Not sure about the price though

[murd0c]

after taking a couple weeks off due to Christmas parties I was finally back at it this weekend, finally took out the bathroom vanity and started taking up the kitchen floor.. Fuck its a bitch since they used particle board and nailed it every 4" so talk about lots of fun dealing with that.

On a positive note my appliances showed up last week and I hooked up the range so I finally have a working oven for the first time since Aug.

https://s28.postimg.org/p35ja9cql/15541529_10155565141168452_6811990134581143403_n.j pg

https://s29.postimg.org/vzmr3down/IMG_9987.jpg

[fliptuner]

I had to deal with the same shit under the lino in my kitchen. Since I wasn't replacing the cabinets, I scraped all the lino and paper off and gave it 2 coats of red guard, before laying tile. If we got new cabinets, I would've pulled the subfloor and replaced it with plywood.

[murd0c]

thankfully the subfloor is still ok otherwise I would of done that before anything else. I'm not laying tile in the kitchen going to run the same hardwood along the entire first floor of my house other then the bathroom of course.

[Hondaracer]

yea taking reno's on yourself is a fucking undertaking lol :/

i've always been into reno's and whatnot constant improvements on my home as my dad always has been (every room in our family home was either completely re-done or reno'ed within 3-5 year cycles) but after taking on our "new" 110 year old house, i think i'm done with major reno's outside of finishing if we were to ever move lol..

we sold our apartment and have a closing date of january 14th so now it's a push to get the house to a state where we can at least move in.. took on the last major 'structural' change this past weekend, opened up the wall which divides the kitchen and dining room, there will be a big island there with a slide in range when we eventually do the kitchen. Ran a vent for the hood fan as well as this house has always had a gas range but never any ventilation:

kind of hard to get the feel of the rooms from pics, but this is standing in the living room looking into the dining room/kitchen area, and the studs are the wall being removed:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/514EF47D-29D8-4B9E-B810-2889CC228994_zpsehsoeyv6.jpg~original

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/2E1B95C6-8892-46FC-B672-E257CD6757EB_zpsrn6n6sox.jpg~original

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/D889CD83-A8D1-49C9-9284-CF23482F23DB_zpszfqku0zw.jpg~original

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/51ADBF3B-E143-40D6-8514-4290963DD410_zpslxov6d0c.jpg~original

[murd0c]

its always a massive project taking out walls, do you have to reinforce the beam since its looks like only two 2x4's are holding it up on the one side?

[Hondaracer]

the bearing on that side is fine, it's laminted to the existing stud which you cant really see behind the lathe, i also doubled up all the joists as well as blocked the shit out of the joists right below it in the basement

it's not a bearing wall, and there really wasnt much of, if any load on those existing studs so it's moreso just peice of mind

in a hundred year old house, your best friend is a 5 ton floor jack! lol..

[murd0c]

Of course it being Christmas vacation I had to get more done since I want the cabinets installed the second or 3rd week of Jan.

Electrical is almost complete, inspection on Tuesday and then it will get finished off. We have about 10 plugs in the kitchen which will be perfect and needed.


https://s27.postimg.org/vu73nh5g3/ELECTRICAL.jpg

Had a friend come over and helped me skim the ceiling and then put mud on it, he also helped move the far light closer and in line with the middle kitchen light (you can see how bad it was in a previous pic)


https://s23.postimg.org/p6ji5zwx7/KITCHEN.jpg

Really started in on the bathroom today, took out the inside wall since the electricians need to change the location of the fan switch which was next to the toilet (how fucken stupid) the floor is going to be horrible to remove which I'm so excited about...

https://s30.postimg.org/64i30itxt/BATHROOM.jpg


Of course we found the particle board is rotten next to the tub, I'm so hoping the sub floor will be fine but we will be replacing the tub so it will be an easy fix if needed.

https://s27.postimg.org/msgcjh38z/ROTTON.jpg

[underscore]

Really started in on the bathroom today, took out the inside wall since the electricians need to change the location of the fan switch which was next to the toilet (how fucken stupid)

I dunno, that could be handy if you realize halfway through that you're unleashing some unholy abomination.

[murd0c]

the reason why I had to remove the wall is because some stupid reason the fan is powered by the light in the kitchen. I have a feeling its by the toilet instead by the light switch because they forgot about the fan and it was easy to pull the power from the kitchen light. I'm happy it was figured out and won't cost me extra which is the big thing

[jing]

Nitpicking here but you'll probably want to staple the loomex to the right of the kitchen window closer to the inside of the stud as the way it sits right now doesn't pass code.

[murd0c]

that was all my electricians work, he's of course not finished but I'm not worried at all right now.

[Adorkami]

Not sure if you've bought your flooring already but if not you might want to look at luxury vinyl plank flooring. Cheaper than hardwood, looks pretty good and if an area gets damaged you can easily pull it up and put down some other planks. I have it everywhere in my house except bathrooms and has been good so far.

[N.V.M.]

love seeing all that work before i get there,lol.

[murd0c]

Not sure if you've bought your flooring already but if not you might want to look at luxury vinyl plank flooring. Cheaper than hardwood, looks pretty good and if an area gets damaged you can easily pull it up and put down some other planks. I have it everywhere in my house except bathrooms and has been good so far.

I'm going to go with the same engineered hardwood along the entire first floor including the kitchen. That's not going to be done for 6 months to a year since we have maxed out on the kitchen and washroom plus we still need to replace all the windows as well.

[Speed2K]

Not sure if you've bought your flooring already but if not you might want to look at luxury vinyl plank flooring. Cheaper than hardwood, looks pretty good and if an area gets damaged you can easily pull it up and put down some other planks. I have it everywhere in my house except bathrooms and has been good so far.

I'm thinking about putting some of this down in my laundry room. Got any pics?

[fliptuner]

I'm going to go with the same engineered hardwood along the entire first floor including the kitchen. That's not going to be done for 6 months to a year since we have maxed out on the kitchen and washroom plus we still need to replace all the windows as well.

Are you laying the flooring down, underneath the cabinets and appliances, even though you're doing the rest later?

[Adorkami]

https://postimg.org/image/cuhafsc6v

Think it was under $3.50/sqf but i bought it a while ago so don't remember the exact price.

https://4corners.ca/

not sure what i'm doing wrong, link to image here https://postimg.org/image/cuhafsc6v/

[murd0c]

Are you laying the flooring down, underneath the cabinets and appliances, even though you're doing the rest later?

we are going to leave the kick plates lose and then lay the flooring partially under the cabinets and then put the kick plates on. The gf did that on her last place and it worked perfect.

[Hondaracer]

Just gonna live on sub floor for a while? lol I'm debating that myself right now

[murd0c]

yup thats the plan and i'm even leaving the original lino down as well. I don't see the big deal about living on the subfloor for a bit since it will make things easier down the road for the pocketbook.

[fliptuner]

If you're mounting the cabinets permanently, before the floors go in, just remember to go the extra 1/2-3/4" off the subfloor, so the counter is at the right height.

[murd0c]

already factored that in, that would totally suck if that was missed and the counters were that off.

I spoke to my cabinet guy earlier in the day and confirmed we are getting them installed for the weekend of the 14th. Can't wait for two weeks and the kitchen will be close to done. I guess I should finish ripping up the floor lol

[Speed2K]

https://postimg.org/image/cuhafsc6v

Think it was under $3.50/sqf but i bought it a while ago so don't remember the exact price.

https://4corners.ca/

not sure what i'm doing wrong, link to image here https://postimg.org/image/cuhafsc6v/

Here you go!

https://s23.postimg.org/wcbxvq94p/IMG_20161231_115249.jpg

Looks nice!

[underscore]

If you're mounting the cabinets permanently, before the floors go in, just remember to go the extra 1/2-3/4" off the subfloor, so the counter is at the right height.

Serious question, would that even be noticeable?

[fliptuner]

I'd definitely notice the difference. Same as if the rise of a staircase or a toilet height is off. So many dimensions are so standardized, that our bodies just become used to them.

[N.V.M.]

I'd definitely notice the difference. Same as if the rise of a staircase or a toilet height is off. So many dimensions are so standardized, that our bodies just become used to them.


i've installed hundreds of kitchens. once you level the bases there's always difference in height from one end of the run to the other, especially in renos(older homes). same with stairs. its math. you have a total run and a total rise, and depending on the amount of stairs, it varies. you try to approach a standard, but it usually is not. the important thing is that its consistent, because if one is different you could go for a fall.

[fliptuner]

I've installed my fair share of cabinets as well and of course the floors are never perfect. I'm just saying if I walked up to a counter that was 37" high, I would notice.

[murd0c]

Late mini post but just finished pulling ip the bathroom floor, the sub is rotted in the closest corner to the right of the tub so no clue how I'm going to fix that yet but I will figure it out.

That being said, the GF pulled up the entire bathroom floor... She's a fucken champ and i'm so impressed.

No work tomorrow since the electrical is being finished/inspected and then the plummer is coming in on Thursday and drywall up this weekend.

https://s28.postimg.org/z9i02uob1/floor.jpg

I ended up going with Roxul insulation, I've heard nothing but good things about it and the price difference is worth it in the long run.

https://s24.postimg.org/amkan8wxh/insulation.jpg

[murd0c]

Thats one of my cats Walter in the picture... He's been helping lots as well.

https://s23.postimg.org/nq6k8go57/ladder.jpg

https://s23.postimg.org/3wr70hl3f/bucket.jpg

[quasi]

To be honest I doubt you'll notice a difference between Roxul which is a mineral wool compared to a standard Fiberglass batt. The stc ratings are pretty much equivalent based on the same R value however since you're doing such a small area you're not really paying that much more.

[murd0c]

I'm using it more due to the sound proofing and I'm going to put it in every open wall including my inside walls. Thats the big reason why I wanted to go with it since you can hear every little thing in my place especially the washroom.

[Hondaracer]

Should have maybe went with the roxul "safe and sound" then? It's their sound proofing product with the fire rating for in between floors etc.

Ended up using it on our suite and that, in combination with the sound barrier drywall (forgot which product we used) has worked great. I only boarded the ceiling in the bedroom with the sound proof drywall but it seems like it was worth the money. Can have my makita radio directly above the bedroom and you can still hear slight beats etc but cannot make out words or much sound when it's fully cranked

[murd0c]

I'm going to be using the soundproofing in the basement with the safe and sound but this stuff holds up way better then the normal insulation at least. I went with this stuff do to it being waterproof and its still fireproof as well which is perfect.

[quasi]

Insulation helps I guess my point was mineral wool doesn't really offer much more sound control then your standard fiberglass batt and if there is it's so minimal it's not worth mentioning but Roxul does do a great job at selling there product.

Like Hondaracer mentioned SilentFX or a similar product does work, creating an air space or additional layers of drywall is also a cheap way to create a better stc ratings. If I was to put a suite in my basement I would rip all the board off the ceiling, insulate and board it then add resilient channel and board it again.

There is nothing wrong with Roxul, it's a good product it's just expensive compared the the alternative. If you're doing small areas it's not enough to worry about, when I'm pricing large jobs the cost difference can be 10's of thousands of dollars so I almost always offer cost savings to switch to fiberglass insulation and there usually taken.

If you want google Insulation and STC Ratings, look at the wall/ceiling composition. The higher the STC Rating the better, you can see what adding different air space, thickness/layers of board and insulation does to increase it.

[fliptuner]

Quasi, so you would use resilient channel as an air gap, between two layers of 5/8 drywall?

[quasi]

Quasi, so you would use resilient channel as an air gap, between two layers of 5/8 drywall?

Yes you can, if on a wall screw it to the studs and run it horizontal 24" on center before the drywall. If you're only 3 layers of board put the 2 layers on the non resilient channel side, if 2 layers both side you can screw into the Resilient channel but it's a bitch. I've seen people cheat and use 20 gauge hat track in lieu of the resilient channel because it's easier to screw into but you won't find a design for that if you're trying to achieve a certain STC rating or have to do submitals.


Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet (http://imgur.com/a/UzlJ6)

[fliptuner]

Just wanted to confirm cause that's pretty straightforward and cost effective. Thanks.

[Hondaracer]

It's wayyy more cost effective than the sound proof drywall

I only used the sound proof drywall due to low ceilings where I couldn't give up even an inch

[Adorkami]

Have Safe and Sound insulation on my basement ceiling and walls. Also resilient channel on the ceiling but can still hear my 4 year old running around, don't think there is any way to get rid of that noise. Getting rid of the kids not an option.

[N.V.M.]

Have Safe and Sound insulation on my basement ceiling and walls. Also resilient channel on the ceiling but can still hear my 4 year old running around, don't think there is any way to get rid of that noise. Getting rid of the kids not an option.

if someone is physically pounding on the other side of the wall or the ceiling above, no amount of insulation will stop the noise.

[Hondaracer]

Sounds and impacts are different things

[quasi]

Have Safe and Sound insulation on my basement ceiling and walls. Also resilient channel on the ceiling but can still hear my 4 year old running around, don't think there is any way to get rid of that noise. Getting rid of the kids not an option.

Of course there is if you have the space and the money. I mean if you want to get into ceiling isolaters and complete isolation systems there is a way. When my dads company worked on the Scotia Bank Theatre years back we had to isolate everything because there is residential above. The amount of Isolaters we put in that place is nuts, I actually had boxes of them left over that I tossed in the garbage after my dads heart attack because I had no use for them.

[Hondaracer]

What I regret not doing now in my suite was using the sound proof drywall and building boxes around where my LED pots are going to go.

Seems kind of counter intuitive to spend all this extra money to board the ceiling then cut 4" holes in it for lights. At least with these slim LED's I can pack a bunch of insulation behind them but that obviously isn't the same as continuous drywall :okay:

[murd0c]

I got a shit ton finished today, finished ripping apart the washroom, sanded second coat of mud and sanded the ceiling again and of course insulation and drywall and the plumbing was completed.

Fuck I'm beat and need to go to sleep

https://s27.postimg.org/77rj0ec77/image.jpg

https://s27.postimg.org/4izlh6gv7/image.jpg

https://s23.postimg.org/ck8kwg9l7/image.jpg

https://s27.postimg.org/a25b83vn7/image.jpg

https://s29.postimg.org/vqud97es7/image.jpg

https://s27.postimg.org/yugpznhc3/image.jpg

https://s24.postimg.org/qwn50wldx/image.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/slc1ldx1p/image.jpg

[Hondaracer]

looks good.

After getting into the guts of our new house and probably knowing it's insides better than anyone else in the last 108 years of it's history, IMO i think the way we are building houses these days is almost backwards as opposed to back then when it comes to Vapour Barriers etc.

100 year old house has no vapour barriers at all, beer bottle stucco on the outside, lathe and plaster on the inside with a bit of blown in cellulose insullation

this house will -never- mold or retain large amounts of moistuer because there are no solid vapour barriers, and, imo, this is why the house has lasted for so long and the solid wood construction remains intact and as solid as ever.

these days with your envelope and vapour barriers we put so much emphasis on keeping moisture out that if not done 100% correctly, problems can and will arise.

our neighbors house has fucking holes the size of basketballs all over the exterior and it's just shitilly patched with flashing, wood, etc.

if he had done this in a modern house his house would be falling apart in 10 years, however, due to the way it's constructed (exatly the same as ours) it breathes and even if it does experiance moisture, it always dries out

[murd0c]

I totally agree about how the newer houses are built so poorly. Mine is build in 71 and you can tell how solid the main structure is made with old growth solid wood. I've been living the past two months with zero insulation no walls really and I didn't notice that much different in the cold weather we have been getting at the time which I'm sure in newer houses you would feel like you are sitting outside.

[Ferra]

Not sure if you've bought your flooring already but if not you might want to look at luxury vinyl plank flooring. Cheaper than hardwood, looks pretty good and if an area gets damaged you can easily pull it up and put down some other planks. I have it everywhere in my house except bathrooms and has been good so far.
Not a fan of the LVT/WPC/Vinyl

At the end of the day, it is still a printed picture with repeating pattern....no different from laminate floor. High end laminate also tends to have better look and texture than high end vinyl at a cheaper price.

The only advantage it has is being waterproof. But the cost premium over laminate is not worth it imo. Also, the vinyl plank itself is waterproof, but your subfloor isn't. So if you have any thing more than a minor spill (e.g your dishwasher or toilet leaked overnight), you'll need to take off the floor and let the subfloor dry out anyway)

At $3.50/sqft...i much rather spend a bit more and go for the real thing. (Laminate on the other hand is a good low cost option since it is typically $1.50-$2/sqft)

[murd0c]

I'm hopefully going to get my flooring from here www.eckowood.com (http://www.eckowood.com/), they are next to my work and will give me wholesale pricing lol

[Ferra]

I totally agree about how the newer houses are built so poorly. Mine is build in 71 and you can tell how solid the main structure is made with old growth solid wood. I've been living the past two months with zero insulation no walls really and I didn't notice that much different in the cold weather we have been getting at the time which I'm sure in newer houses you would feel like you are sitting outside.

Tell me about it...lol
I tried to hang a heavy punching bag in my basement last month.
All the floor joist are these "engineered I-joist"...
The bag is 100lb+, I don't even feel comfortable hanging 50lb off these joist..

To be fair, I think they are more stable and can hold a lot of weight coming in straight from the top...just nothing from the bottom or the side.

[Ferra]

I'm hopefully going to get my flooring from here www.eckowood.com (http://www.eckowood.com/), they are next to my work and will give me wholesale pricing lol
I am pretty familiar with floors...(i sell them :pokerface:, not in van tho)
Feel free to ask if you've got any question.

In case your neighbor is ripping you off...
5" x 1/2" Engineered Floor from china cost is around $2.60-$3.60/sqft. (pretty sure those stuffs they are selling on the website are from China)
7.5"Wide & 6' Long Plank stuffs are around $4-$6.
The canadian name brand stuffs will be significantly more expensive...but the good chinese made stuffs is not too bad...for the average person it is hard to distinguish the good from the bad tho.
These are ontario pricing...direct import or retailer wholesale cost.


Also...some of my opinions in terms of look
Wavy Handscrapped texture is kinda going out of style now. (very popular last 5 years)
The European styles floors are getting more popular now (6-7"+ wide, matte/oil finish, flat but with textures)
The smooth finish floor is very "classic" and won't go out of styles..but they show everything. (Scratch & dents etc)
But at the end of the day...pick whatever look you like lol

[underscore]

The one lesson I learned about any kind of plank flooring is to definitely get the interlocking kind. We got tongue and groove and it was a huge pain in the ass trying to prevent gaps because any slight deviation along a piece would result in quite noticeable gaps. There might be a better technique but I had to glue 3 rows, then screw a bunch of pieces of 2x4 to the floor and hammer wedges of wood between the flooring and the anchored 2x4s to hold everything tight together while the glue dried. It took a heck of a lot longer than just cutting pieces and snapping them together.

[murd0c]

Thanks Ferra, we won't be doing the floors anytime soon tho. Once the bathroom and kitchen are done we need new windows which will cost more then the cabinets I'm sure. My buddy just spent $18,000.

[Ferra]

The one lesson I learned about any kind of plank flooring is to definitely get the interlocking kind. We got tongue and groove and it was a huge pain in the ass trying to prevent gaps because any slight deviation along a piece would result in quite noticeable gaps. There might be a better technique but I had to glue 3 rows, then screw a bunch of pieces of 2x4 to the floor and hammer wedges of wood between the flooring and the anchored 2x4s to hold everything tight together while the glue dried. It took a heck of a lot longer than just cutting pieces and snapping them together.
Well..that's the difference between shitty product vs a higher quality one.
The high end stuffs..you can have 500 planks and not 1 of them the width is off by 0.2mm...with the crappy product sometimes 50% of the planks are slightly off.
Shitty product also have a higher tendency to twist and wrap because the lumber weren't dried properly before milling...so like your 2x4 lumber they are no longer straight after they dry out.

Also..i dont like the click stuffs in a house. The nail down stuffs feels more solid when you walk on it. Click engineered floor needs an underpadding and you can usually feel some "softness" and bounce on the floor when you are walking on it. (same as laminate & click vinyl)

Click is definitely much more DIY friendly tho.
With T&G nail down, you need specialized machines, and you gotta make sure your start line is dead straight. Otherwise your floor will look crooked and your end joint won't be 90degree as you go further in.

[underscore]

There was only one option that we could find locally so I'm assuming it's not the best quality, it's bamboo so maybe that made it worse when it acclimatized to our house. The floor is floating so you do feel more flex as you walk on it but I prefer that over something rock hard. I considered nailing it but I was told it would have a higher tendency to creak as it ages which I definitely don't want.

[murd0c]

Almost finished taping and mudding the kitchen, first time I have ever done this and I think it looks ok. Corner beads fricken suck

https://s27.postimg.org/ht689z1eb/image.jpg


https://s23.postimg.org/upwpc84wr/image.jpg

[quasi]

I'm not a taper by any means but the wider you float your mud on the joints the easier it is to blend and hide the joint. Most the tapers I see work will typically use a trowel when they apply that first coat of mud over there tapes.

Saying that good for you for taking it on, taping isn't an easy thing to do.

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/images/items/zoom/11VJ31_AS01.JPG

[murd0c]

really the only visible tape will be on the back wall and I'm of course going to sand it down which should be more then enough to hide the joints. It's perfect to start in a kitchen since mostly everything will be hidden.

[fliptuner]

Mudding is definitely an art I don't have patience for. Good thing with a kitchen, 90% will be covered by cabinets and tile. Good on you for giving it a shot.

[murd0c]

ya it really fricken sucks and man those inside corner parts are beyond horrible. It's hard to believe how easy people can make it look

[murd0c]

Shit is getting real today and man I'm excited. Hopefully the installer will be finished tomorrow but he also has my bathroom vanity and custom closet to install as well. All the cabinets come with 3 hinges and every door/drawer are soft close of course. everything is also water resistent which is a big plus as well. I'm a big fan of them looking fully white with grey on the inside which is pretty unique.

https://s28.postimg.org/cyhtispod/image.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/jiqfqdyp9/image.jpg

https://s24.postimg.org/5i5p6z9n9/image.jpg

https://s30.postimg.org/sffu3a3dd/image.jpg

[underscore]

I could've sworn it was posted in this thread but maybe it was another one, someone posted saying which manufacturers don't release the schematics for their appliances and I'm trying to figure out which ones. We need to get a new washer and dryer (dryer is starting to pull in clothes and burn them a bit) but I want to avoid those brands.

[Sw0op]

I could've sworn it was posted in this thread but maybe it was another one, someone posted saying which manufacturers don't release the schematics for their appliances and I'm trying to figure out which ones. We need to get a new washer and dryer (dryer is starting to pull in clothes and burn them a bit) but I want to avoid those brands.

wrong thread

its this one here

https://www.revscene.net/forums/711202-ge-top-freezer-warm-issue.html

LG + Samsung

[N.V.M.]

they should have edged everything to match the door colour, not the case colour.

[murd0c]

It's the unique style they are using same with the 3 hinges on the doors as well. I could of had the edging to match the doors as well but wanted it that way since it's different.

[N.V.M.]

I would have also ordered thicker fridge gables, at least 1" thick melamine.

[murd0c]

its solid hard wood so it's really sturdy. I asked about that when he quoted it out and said this will be more the solid enough. Thankfully everything has a life time warranty as well.

[N.V.M.]

Hard wood? What?

[murd0c]

sprrg I should of said plywood not MDF

[murd0c]

Thankfully its starting to look like something, counters are getting measured sometime this week.

https://s30.postimg.org/69e4shmap/image.jpg

https://s24.postimg.org/khjxlztmt/image.jpg

[Mr.Money]

amazing,just the floors look horrible for now but its gonna be pretty damn nice all done.

[Ferra]

I see you filled your booze cabinet before your kitchen is even finished :lol

FYI usually it is better to do the floor first and have the cabinet and appliance sits on top.
The finish will be nicer and in case of any future kitchen changes, you won't have to patch the missing flooring.

Most floor guy will probably charge you a bit extra to cut around all the cabinets as well..(but you'd use less floor so they kinda balance out)


Also, I'd put a handle in the faux drawer for the sink cabinet to give it a consistent look.

[murd0c]

no question about the flooring but since we are going to be running the same flooring on the entire upstairs we are just leaving it for now since we have more important things to purchase before the flooring. We are going to be doing it our selves so are not concerned on the extra cuts that have to be made.

I was thinking about putting a handle on the faux drawer as well but with my luck one of my buddies would come over and rip it off drunk trying to get into it.

[punkwax]

wrong thread

its this one here

https://www.revscene.net/forums/711202-ge-top-freezer-warm-issue.html

LG + Samsung

Horrible brands anyway.

[Hondaracer]

Started my crown in the dining room today, fuuukkkkkk these big crowns are a pain and so is when nothing in your house is square/level...being as they are so big was forced to cut them on the flat with a few tips from YouTube, worked out alright and should be fine with some patching and sanding:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/1586D491-9D92-46C9-96B8-D942721A7110_zpsksp7gil9.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/1586D491-9D92-46C9-96B8-D942721A7110_zpsksp7gil9.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/5F53A233-7825-4DAA-968E-8104BBEF738D_zpsukwfwstv.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/5F53A233-7825-4DAA-968E-8104BBEF738D_zpsukwfwstv.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/1C7958FD-B1B1-49EA-8EBA-BFF5BAE89A35_zpsd77x4exo.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/1C7958FD-B1B1-49EA-8EBA-BFF5BAE89A35_zpsd77x4exo.jpg.html)

6 5/8" on the wall and ceiling..

Tom start my chair rail and wainscotting.

I'll have to add a pic of the finished beam I posted earlier, my contractors killed the drywall on it as well as reboarding the ceiling in the living room, went right over the existing lathe and plaster looks soooo much better

[N.V.M.]

You mitered both pieces on the inside corners?

[Hondaracer]

Wasn't going to cope them.

With this setup to cut both inside and outside corners you set both the miter and bevel in order to cut them flat, pretty common in large crowns for both inside and outside corners

That's fairly standard practice as far as I've seen

[lowside67]

https://s24.postimg.org/khjxlztmt/image.jpg
I would not have put a wine rack next to the stove - wine is very sensitive to temperature and you can literally take a great bottle of wine and turn it into garbage in a surprisingly short time by storing it in temperatures too warm.

The average house temperature is around 20C and that's basically the max you would ever want to store wine at - hence why most people try to keep it in a cellar or somewhere cooler. The additional heat rising from your stove could easily raise it another 5-10 degrees which doesn't sound like much but is way into "damage your wine" territory.

Mark

[snowball]

I would not have put a wine rack next to the stove - wine is very sensitive to temperature and you can literally take a great bottle of wine and turn it into garbage in a surprisingly short time by storing it in temperatures too warm.

The average house temperature is around 20C and that's basically the max you would ever want to store wine at - hence why most people try to keep it in a cellar or somewhere cooler. The additional heat rising from your stove could easily raise it another 5-10 degrees which doesn't sound like much but is way into "damage your wine" territory.

Mark

He just needs to drink all the wine fast :lawl:

[murd0c]

that's exactly what I was going to say and right now the wine rack is full of vodka and everclear.. That being said the hood fan will always be on while cooking so I'm not worried about the stove temps effecting the wine at all.

[VR6GTI]

Started my crown in the dining room today, fuuukkkkkk these big crowns are a pain and so is when nothing in your house is square/level...being as they are so big was forced to cut them on the flat with a few tips from YouTube, worked out alright and should be fine with some patching and sanding:


I hear ya on the big crown, its a bitch. Why didn't you pre-paint prior to install?
I pre-painted mine on the floor so i didn't have to break my neck later. I didn't use as many nails as you though.

[Hondaracer]

I hear ya on the big crown, its a bitch. Why didn't you pre-paint prior to install?
I pre-painted mine on the floor so i didn't have to break my neck later. I didn't use as many nails as you though.

That is pre painted lol..

Had to use so many nails cause A) the crown was heavy as fuck, 13" wide and probably about 25lb+ per 12' length

And B) I mixed up my mitre and bevel measurements right off the bat so ended up pulling down 4 long sections and recutting lol :okay:

[lowside67]

that's exactly what I was going to say and right now the wine rack is full of vodka and everclear.. That being said the hood fan will always be on while cooking so I'm not worried about the stove temps effecting the wine at all.
For the fun of it, take your instant read thermometer and measure your living room. Then when you are boiling a pot of water at full blast for pasta (with the hood vent on), measure where your wine is. I bet your fan is similar to mine (in that it is not that effective) and I imagine your wine is getting hotter than you might think.

-Mark

[Hondaracer]

Sanded and patched the crown today and did some wainscotting and chair rail, pretty happy with the results going for dat classic look

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/5467DC13-E089-4588-AF1E-EA9654EE448B_zps86gbrzvm.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/5467DC13-E089-4588-AF1E-EA9654EE448B_zps86gbrzvm.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/30400616-18D3-45D4-AB8D-442798B68F67_zpsymfbnkzq.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/30400616-18D3-45D4-AB8D-442798B68F67_zpsymfbnkzq.jpg.html)

[snowball]

Heat still radiates even if the fan is on :( The fan is really for pulling moisture and grease out of the room rather than heat.

[fliptuner]

Not to be left out...

http://i.imgur.com/m6PSx2M.jpg

:troll:

:alonehappy:

[Ferra]

are we hajacking OP's thread into a post your own reno thread :troll:

Been doing my stairs last month....it is freaking tons of work.. I probably spent 100-150 hours on it. (There are no dressed white oak lumber available so had to work with 6" rough sawn lumber...took forever to plane and joint everything)

Stairs finally installed, just waiting for the glass railing to come in so I can install the handrail and finish off the trims. (The side with the gap in between is where the glass slot in)

https://s4.postimg.org/4g2vs121p/FullSizeRender.jpg
https://s4.postimg.org/lhvpu4gwt/FullSizeRender_1.jpg

[Hondaracer]

Fuck nice work for DIY! Looks great

Kinda lol'ed when you say 100-150 hours then follow that up by saying you had to plane and join everything, yea I wouldn't doubt it lol

[Gumby]

I applaud all you DIYers - I always have a fear of screwing up royally so I never have the guts to embark on any projects... :)

[murd0c]

the stairs look fantastic, I wouldn't know where to start doing something like that.

I haven't done much to my renos the last bit, counters are in and just have to prime the walls and then the backsplash and my electrician will come back in and finish up the plugs.

[punkwax]

I applaud all you DIYers - I always have a fear of screwing up royally so I never have the guts to embark on any projects... :)

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fVHFUOOlIoY/T4dIW-Rj2EI/AAAAAAAACeo/CDhjvCsOlw4/s1600/Homer_Simpson_Quote.jpg

[Hondaracer]

Little feature wall for the suite:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/1BAD89E1-022C-4A37-A89F-155D8E461D48_zpspe4gerxa.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/1BAD89E1-022C-4A37-A89F-155D8E461D48_zpspe4gerxa.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/60C2A943-8CDD-421A-86AF-BC6D53513F58_zpsmlu6m7bf.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/60C2A943-8CDD-421A-86AF-BC6D53513F58_zpsmlu6m7bf.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/00584DC4-0CCD-44D1-8BA7-18B0C1A66AC4_zpsceyps4vp.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/sniperslayer/media/00584DC4-0CCD-44D1-8BA7-18B0C1A66AC4_zpsceyps4vp.jpg.html)

[Hondaracer]

just call me Mo Mouldings :sleep:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/2E48B1E8-4464-420F-BB42-BBAD8E4D5171_zpsyqea3jxu.jpg~original

[murd0c]

I haven't been able to do much the last bit do to life but I finally had a free weekend to do some more work. My electrician said he will give me a bunch of no charge plugs in my mancave so I had to frame that in. I wasn't planning on doing that so soon but free electrical is always a plus in my books


the before pic

https://s23.postimg.org/t3e3w87cr/17425000_10154239547785741_5926664784823622423_n.j pg

The after pics... Had to tear the ceiling apart since I want to put roxul safe and sound and add 6 pot lights... I'm just pissed off I have my drywall from the 70's I have to deal with now...

https://s30.postimg.org/6e1ztyiy9/17362530_10154239547795741_6042617871825698408_n.j pg

https://s7.postimg.org/elrsmmrjf/17353118_10154239547830741_5068800653994882686_n.j pg

I also decided to tear out the bedroom valances since they took up a bunch of room and are straight up ghetto

https://s23.postimg.org/yjtc84i4r/17308712_10155908086263452_7740435196960890292_n.j pg

Now its time to get back to the kitchen by putting up the backsplash and it looks like my plumber will be coming over tomorrow to install my kitchen sink finally.

[Hondaracer]

lol those stupid valances. My living room had one and I tried to avoid taking it out (just due to the mess) but once I started there was no going back and I'm super happy I ripped it out lol.

You using LED pots in that room? With the roxul safe and sound I'd use the LED pots over the regular cans because you have so much more of a gap/air barrier then. Also don't have to worry about the fire rating or clearances with the LED's

[murd0c]

the funny thing about the valances is that was all all the gf's call, I came home and she already had one down when I wanted to leave it since we are already dealing with so much right now. I must say it is the right call and opens the rooms up that much more.

no question I'm going LED pots, thats by far the best option and like you said its the best call for the fire rating. I don't understand why someone wouldn't go with LED this day and age.

[blkgsr]

those old ass valences they used to put in are the worst.

Is there no insulation in that exterior wall or did you take it out when you took out the valence?

What's your plan with the textured ceiling?

I scraped mine all off....honestly should have just boarded over.

[murd0c]

there is still insulation in the walls next to the headers but you can't see it due to the ghetto paper which covered the older insulation.

Going to leave the ceiling for now, that's one project I aint touching now that's for sure

[Adorkami]

Not to hard to scrape off your popcorn ceiling as long as it wasn't painted. I used some 9' wide poly from home depot to cover the walls and floor, sprayed the ceiling with water and then scraped it off. Had a couple marks that had to be patched but looks so much better.

[murd0c]

I did my kitchen, scraped it and then used mud and sanded. I will prob do it when ever I put in the hardwood upstairs since I will have to empty the rooms anyways

[Hondaracer]

Finished up my stairwell

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/sniperslayer/DCCBF191-C3E8-4AB3-878E-6CB2EB148DFF_zpsfbslb1e7.jpg~original

[rsx10]

Quick question,

I bought a townhouse with an unauthorized suite built in the basement. I want to make it my game room/office but I'm concerned with possible build quality. Things such as electrical and maybe some improper building techniques? Besides the obvious and hiring an electrician is there anything i can do?

Thanks

[jing]

I don't think you'd be able to tell if it adhered to the electrical code without ripping through the drywall, unless for obvious stuff like surface run loomex cable etc

[underscore]

The easiest thing would be to switch off the power (verify both plugs on each outlet to be safe), pull off the plates and pull all the plugs/switches out to see how well that end of things was done. If you find loose terminals, disconnected grounds, cables not clamped down, etc you can probably guess they did a crappy job with the rest of it too.

[Great68]

I don't think you'd be able to tell if it adhered to the electrical code without ripping through the drywall, unless for obvious stuff like surface run loomex cable etc

Loomex is fine to run exposed surface as long as it's in a dry location and not exposed to mechanical damage (unless mechanical protection is installed).

It's just ugly in a finished space.

[Ferra]

Redoing my bathroom

Hired someone to do the install, while I help with all the removal & disposal + transporting
Been almost 2 weeks, it is such a huge mess...
Tiles dust and drywall dust everywhere...I am going insane..:banghead:
Hopefully they will get all the tiles done this weekend so I can clean up

Original
http://i.imgur.com/78bEjD0.jpg
Demo
http://i.imgur.com/0XYnqpB.jpg
WIP
http://i.imgur.com/HnJST5j.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QPOHcHR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3msG7op.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eBcDmoX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Wmw75rp.jpg

Changed the shower to make it very "open" instead of like a cave
No Curb + linear drain on the other side.
Going to have two rainshower head mounted on the ceiling, and a handshower

[murd0c]

looks really good so far, This past weekend I just finally mounted my kitchen sink, dry walled my bathroom and tomorrow I should put installing my range hood. Haven't posted any updated since things have been going pretty slow.

[blkgsr]

been painting my house....again

after eliminating the textured ceilings and installing pot lights we made a colour change from the typical "builder beige" to a grey

must say it's nice to have the house looking "normal" again and not patched/primed walls all over the place and being able to put lights back up. what a difference the LED pot lights make

this weekend is second coat upstairs and start downstairs

FYI the sherwin williams Emerald paint is amazing

[murd0c]

Holy fuck installing this hood fan is beyond a bitch... I'm fitting everything first before I do the backsplash (actually the g/f is doing the backsplash)

https://s12.postimg.org/pwktififx/image1.jpg

[Hondaracer]

Yea my hood fan was surprisingly difficult to install and I even had to have my welder buddy cut my shroud peices in order for it to fit. The fan itself is super highly reviewed for the price from Costco, however their customer service was shit, Ancona brand

https://i.imgur.com/AZSIqq5.jpg

The island hood fans also are a bit harder cause you need everything perfectly in place as well as some heavy duty backing to mount it free floating. I'm super happy with the end result though

[Ferra]

Yea my hood fan was surprisingly difficult to install and I even had to have my welder buddy cut my shroud peices in order for it to fit. The fan itself is super highly reviewed for the price from Costco, however their customer service was shit, Ancona brand

https://i.imgur.com/AZSIqq5.jpg

The island hood fans also are a bit harder cause you need everything perfectly in place as well as some heavy duty backing to mount it free floating. I'm super happy with the end result though

I have the same brand range hood (ancona), but the 36" wall-mount chimney style ones, originally bought at costco for like $600, then I found a guy on kijiji selling the same model nre for $350. :fuckyea:

I am happy with the hood especially for the price. Only thing is, the spec said 900cfm. It is no where near that...power is similar to your typical 500cfm hood. (i'd say average power, average noise)

Installation was quite easy on mine tho, just screw the 2 mounting bracket on the back wall, and hang the range hood on it...
I think it took 15-20min.

[lowside67]

Yea my hood fan was surprisingly difficult to install and I even had to have my welder buddy cut my shroud peices in order for it to fit. The fan itself is super highly reviewed for the price from Costco, however their customer service was shit, Ancona brand

https://i.imgur.com/AZSIqq5.jpg

The island hood fans also are a bit harder cause you need everything perfectly in place as well as some heavy duty backing to mount it free floating. I'm super happy with the end result though
Is that your final setup? I don't quite understand, it looks like your stove is just floating in the middle of the room haha.

I am a bit surprised about the height of the hood - it looks a bit high, is that within range the manufacturer specified? It's amazing the difference in effectiveness a few inches of mounting height difference can make.

Mark

[murd0c]

Finally the kitchen sink is installed and hooked up, thank fricken god I no longer have to wash dishes on my knees in my downstairs bathtub!!

https://s21.postimg.org/yxc8ipqpj/18274860_10156078310563452_252500025330622479_n.jp g

[yray]

Is that your final setup? I don't quite understand, it looks like your stove is just floating in the middle of the room haha.

Mark

lastest kitchen design. Free standing stove island

[N.V.M.]

Finally the kitchen sink is installed and hooked up, thank fricken god I no longer have to wash dishes on my knees in my downstairs bathtub!!

https://s21.postimg.org/yxc8ipqpj/18274860_10156078310563452_252500025330622479_n.jp g[/url]upload an image (https://postimage.io/)

Thats the part DIY'ers forget about. It takes way longer.

[murd0c]

That's for sure, it honestly seemed like forever and I was straight up sick of washing dishes. This entire time we have still been cooking all of our food in the kitchen.

[Hondaracer]

Is that your final setup? I don't quite understand, it looks like your stove is just floating in the middle of the room haha.

I am a bit surprised about the height of the hood - it looks a bit high, is that within range the manufacturer specified? It's amazing the difference in effectiveness a few inches of mounting height difference can make.

Mark

Lol nah not done yet the range is going to slide into the future island. It's going to be a big island that wraps around the range and into the dining room which is why it looks pretty weird right now.

The height is probably a bit deceiving due to the picture angle, for gas ranges the minimum distance is 33" but most recommend 34-36 as the heat. I beleive mine sits about 34.5 over the range and I wanted to go a bit higher than lower as I want to be able to look past the range into the dining room

[jing]

http://i.imgur.com/Y1o9qYq.jpg

Any tips on how to deal with this? Basically feels like a "bubble" when I run my hand over it. The lighter part is where I tried sanding it down which didn't really help. Seems like it's a bad tape job or something. Do I just scrape it off, then tape and mud? Or can I just scrape it off, and, since it's a small area, just put some spackling over it?

[murd0c]

yup that looks like it could be a bad tape job, only way to fix it would be to sand the entire area tape everything and paint it all again. It's a big job but if you only fix that already I bet the same thing will happen in other areas as well.

[murd0c]

Haven't posted an update in a while since things have been so busy and haven't done much in the past couple of months.. The GF is staying and working DT all weekend and she was supposed to tile the back splash and washroom so I hired my sister bf to take care of it since he's a pro..

The gf is going to be shocked when she gets home Sunday, talk about a wicked surprise.

https://s18.postimg.org/l0wiamr2x/image.jpg

https://s9.postimg.org/887rnenbj/image.jpg

[N.V.M.]

I see those "subway" tiles on every home reno show.

[murd0c]

because its cheap easy and they look nice, been spending lots and lots of cash and need to be smart with the money.

Just ordered new windows from Centra that are getting installed in Oct. Went for a new front door and french doors with blinds in them going to get the deck as well.

[Wormiez]

Awesome renovation!

I am looking for a good tiler to tile 3 of my bathrooms. Any recommendations?

[underscore]

Just ordered new windows from Centra that are getting installed in Oct. Went for a new front door and french doors with blinds in them going to get the deck as well.

Centra did all our windows and front door back in January, no complaints thus far, although I still need to get around to sanding down and painting the trim.

[murd0c]

Centra did all our windows and front door back in January, no complaints thus far, although I still need to get around to sanding down and painting the trim.

They seem like a really good company, wasn't the cheapest but the quality and
Warranty seem like one of the best. They gave us a tour around the factory and I was beyond impressed.

[murd0c]

Awesome renovation!

I am looking for a good tiler to tile 3 of my bathrooms. Any recommendations?

My sisters bf is a straight up pro, he does masonry by trade so he has tons of experience. He's pretty busy and I was only able to get him to help since he had some spare time. Still paid him full price as well lol

[murd0c]

Just need to grout the floor and finally I will have an upstairs toilet.

https://s10.postimg.org/5vfyqlvnt/image1.jpg

[VR6GTI]

^ that makes my head hurt

[N.V.M.]

Tiles look good. I don't know why your cabinet guy made that vanity proud of the wall though. The look should have been wall and the front of the drawer fronts on the same line.

[murd0c]

It's a narrow wall and we wanted it to stick out a bit for more cupboard space, the the main reason why we went single vanity as well.

[CCA-Dave]

My kitchen reno isn't going to be nearly as baller as the others here, but heck I haven't even lived here a full year yet...so I get pass :P Had some good friends over last week to see the house and stay a couple nights, and when we first walked into the kitchen Anne announced "That wallpaper HAS to go!". Well, she wasn't wrong, it's not exactly "guy in his 30's", but I've had other priorities.

While I made dinner, Anne and Greg got to removing the wallpaper.
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19143750_10158758983675468_281049820507230945_o.jp g?oh=44865cc9b45e7beed1633b3db3c0d447&oe=59CD6133

The problem with these things, though, is they snowball. After I finished up the wallpaper removal the next day I went to buy the drywall compound to repair the damage. And then I'm going to have to paint. It seems this house thing is a bit like a project car...you know, while I'm in there...

For reference, here's the kitchen in my 90's home after I removed the wallpaper:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4231/35263177612_6135f49b49_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/34587386504_429f12e5ab_z.jpg

Long term, I'd love to have a counter in between the dining room and the kitchen. I'm planning on building a live-edge dining room table, and the cost difference between a 38" wide piece and a 48" wide piece is significant. If I have a counter on one side, and my sideboard on the other, I can get away with a narrower table since the "food" is still close by without being in the middle of the table.

I've talked about knocking out the wall in between the kitchen and dining room, but that's a LONG term plan. I don't have the dollars, or the time, to be dealing with new floors, new ceiling, etc. My house has painted stucco in the kitchen, and california ceilings in the rest of the house...so to do work cutting up either means replacement. Flooring is laminate or engineered wood in the dining room, tile in the kitchen and carpet everywhere else.

BUT, now that I've torn out the wallpaper...I'm going to need to paint. Hmmmmmm....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4214/35389882516_68fd2394cd_z.jpg

Love my Dewalt laser level...but it would appear my tripods are all at Warwick's place still, so I had to get creative on the living room side.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4267/35429493185_3a8af893f6_z.jpg

I've skipped over the removal of the pocket doors, but lets just say they suck to remove. They will also cause me some issues in the supporting wall, which in this photo is the one on the left.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4283/35429493895_12c46c7348_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4236/35429830875_fc37998d5b_z.jpg

And, here's the concept with a spare piece of live-edge I've got from another project. This one is only 18" wide, and I'll use at least a piece at least 21" wide for the counter. I think it's going to extend into the living room only enough that the whole edge is "over", so that I have maximum room in the kitchen for shelves underneath and maybe an overhang so I can eat breakfast on a stool.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4281/35389886626_59bf5c64d3_c.jpg

The pony wall is the main supporting wall for the house. That one is going to be a bit more of a challenge, as the pocket door framing hides the headers and I'm not really sure whats going on there yet. Have to build two supporting walls, and then start cutting out more drywall until I see whats going on.

Also really not sure how I'm going to have the two live edge counters meet at the corner...sort of making it up as I go along :P

[Ferra]

just got my bath "kinda" finished as well...after 2 months FailFish
(Not really finished, just enough that I can actually use it)
definitely the most painful reno...compare to doing the floor, kitchen, stairs..etc

waiting for the frameless shower glass...tho i have been using the shower for more than a week. It is actually usable without the shower glass door. Just had to be careful I don't get too much water splash on to the drywall. I painted the wall & ceiling with 3 coats of BM Bath & Spa paint that is supposedly waterproof...but i doubt you can actually spray water on it.

The vanity is from ikea, had to do tons of hack to get a 1pc quartz countertop and aftermarket sinks to fit. And modify an extra vanity to make an open shelf to fill the space on tight to the wall.

Also ordered and waiting for a new vanity light and a big 1 piece mirror

http://i.imgur.com/78hiKRG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1myv8gl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/J7esNJj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ollWh2D.jpg

[murd0c]

both of your reno's are looking great, jealous of your bathroom Ferra.. I couldn't go with a walk in shower since the gf needs her baths dammit lol

back splash is finally finished, just have to grout which we are going with an espresso brown to match the flooring (when ever we do that) and light fixtures.

https://s29.postimg.org/ie40a9xfr/image1.jpg

[CCA-Dave]

That looks good!

[murd0c]

thanks

[Hondaracer]

Dark grout is the way to go for anything that gets dirty. White grout looks like shit after a few months most of the time

[murd0c]

no question and white everything in the kitchen would be way too much so we want the dark grout to break things up. Going with antique white in the bathroom tho. Just picked up the Schluter membrane for the tub surround walls today, that with the aqua board with Schluter tape the surround is so going to be waterproof.

[CCA-Dave]

Had a last minute change of plans, and decided I didn't want to do the pony wall square opening. Fortunately I decided that before putting the header in, so it didn't have to be redone.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4210/35071927220_6f7f093a94_c.jpg

Next on my "lets pull down the wallpaper" list is taking out the rounded corners in the dining room...but it's just too sunny outside.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4258/35071927290_933fb0998a_c.jpg

So, figuring I'd enjoy some sunshine, I pulled my maple slab into the carport and started to work on the bottom side. The proper way to do this would be to lay the slab on a really large flat surface, and use a router and sled to flatten one side, and then the other. But, I'm not a fan of wood dust in the car shop...so screw that! Hand planer, belt sander with 40 and 80 grit, and then the random orbital from 40 through to 120.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4239/35291838502_c58f2b3f9b_c.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4286/35071845410_fee61d4cab_c.jpg

Flipped over...and tomorrow I'll start on the topside. That one requires more careful work...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4230/35071845330_92f16a986b_c.jpg

[quasi]

Everything is just built to break these days

It's funny you say that because last month my washer died, lasted like 10 years. I had to buy a new washer/dryer unit and honestly I was surprised how expensive they are now. Talking to a couple co-workers and there like you got 10 years? They both said there last 2 sets lasted 5 years at best and they aren't buying cheap sets, $3,000 range........

All I could say was FML.

[underscore]

^ a lot of people are killing front load washers by overloading them. The bearing wears out and the drum starts banging around. For some reason the bearings are sold as a unit with the drum, but if you can find a bearing that's the right size you can usually get the old one pressed out and a new one pressed in and be good to go.

[CCA-Dave]

Friends of mine would like a new fridge for the updated look, asked another friend who does appliance repairs what the best fridge is these days. His reply? "the one already in your kitchen. Anything built earlier than five years ago is a much better unit"

[SSM_DC5]

It's funny you say that because last month my washer died, lasted like 10 years. I had to buy a new washer/dryer unit and honestly I was surprised how expensive they are now. Talking to a couple co-workers and there like you got 10 years? They both said there last 2 sets lasted 5 years at best and they aren't buying cheap sets, $3,000 range........

All I could say was FML.

DIY fix it. I've fixed my washer twice now with $10 parts from the parts store. Googled the symptoms and found the how tos

[quasi]

DIY fix it. I've fixed my washer twice now with $10 parts from the parts store. Googled the symptoms and found the how tos

If you seen the closet my washer and dryer are shoved into you would not want to work on it yourself. :) Getting it in and out is such a bitch with 1/2" clearance on all 3 sides, I'll never even attempt to work on that thing.

[murd0c]

tub surround its close to tiled now and I have to say I like it, wasn't sure at first since the gf picked it out but it's really starting to grow on me.

https://s21.postimg.org/7y6rrueev/image.jpg

https://s2.postimg.org/oefrileq1/image.jpg

[murd0c]

trying to finish up these projects have been a complete pain especially in this hot weather... Good thing I have this in my back yard too help de-stress and cool down :D

https://s16.postimg.org/kn9fnajmt/19424366_10154512480810741_5116207994415130249_n.j pg

[Ferra]

Flipped over...and tomorrow I'll start on the topside. That one requires more careful work...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4230/35071845330_92f16a986b_c.jpg
Damn that's a big slab of maple...

Probably too late for you, but if the slab is under 24", a lot of lumber yard offer planing service and will probably do it for you for $30. (Takes 10 min to run it thru a planer on both sides)

Some place have planer up to 50" too, but will cost you a lot more than $30

When I tried hand planing, I ended up spending half a day trying to sand the surface smooth...

[murd0c]

That's a great idea taking it to a lumber yard, I would so love a live edge table in the future but talk about expensive brand new. I should so speak with my cousin to make one for me, he is a wood working teacher and can't build anything you can think of out of wood.

[CCA-Dave]

Damn that's a big slab of maple...

Probably too late for you, but if the slab is under 24", a lot of lumber yard offer planing service and will probably do it for you for $30. (Takes 10 min to run it thru a planer on both sides)

Some place have planer up to 50" too, but will cost you a lot more than $30

When I tried hand planing, I ended up spending half a day trying to sand the surface smooth...

You know, now that you say that...I really should have looked into it :P When I buy the slab for my dining room table, I'm definitely going to have it planed first.

Thanks!

[N.V.M.]

CNC is way easier, lol. the big slab of elm in the bottom two pics were super cheap because of the large split in it, but a liter of epoxy and a few bow ties, it came pretty good.

Edit: pics removed

[murd0c]

range hood is mostly installed now, still have to clean up and seal the grout but happy this is finally completed. Missing the SS screws for the top of the hood so of course that space will be closed flush against the ceiling

https://s17.postimg.org/rps4stav3/image1.jpg

[fliptuner]

Damn that's a big slab of maple...

Probably too late for you, but if the slab is under 24", a lot of lumber yard offer planing service and will probably do it for you for $30. (Takes 10 min to run it thru a planer on both sides)

Some place have planer up to 50" too, but will cost you a lot more than $30

When I tried hand planing, I ended up spending half a day trying to sand the surface smooth...

Any places you can suggest? Preferably, East of Vancouver. Thanks!

Edit: slab is 22-1/2" at its widest

[murd0c]

Haven't been doing much the last bit but still coming along, Bathroom still aint done but we just have to finish mudding and then prime and paint and no clue how to get in the ceiling fan. Decided to put pot lights in the rec room and going to be drywalling that in the next couple of weeks.

Big thing is Tuesday we are getting all new windows, Front door and fresh doors instead of a sliding door in the rear. Can't wait to get rid of the 40 year old single pane windows you can hear everything through.

[murd0c]

New doors and windows and I can't be happier, Centra was beyond awesome and top notch quality as well.

https://s1.postimg.org/7axqd3yyvj/front_old.jpg

https://s1.postimg.org/23f74alwpb/front_door_new.jpg

https://s1.postimg.org/1888h6so9b/slider_old.jpg

https://s1.postimg.org/8899d93e5r/french_doors.jpg

https://s1.postimg.org/6afctff9hr/front_house_old.jpg

https://s1.postimg.org/3acjovovbz/front_house_new.jpg

[underscore]

Have any of you used vinyl plank flooring in a bathroom? The wife is convinced it's watertight with the sealant it comes with but I'm not so sure.

[murd0c]

If you are going that route still use the schluter ditra matt just on the safe side, it's better off going over kill now rather then regretting it later.

[N.V.M.]

Had to go install my own work . Nice day up in the Properties.

[underscore]

^ a lot of people are killing front load washers by overloading them. The bearing wears out and the drum starts banging around. For some reason the bearings are sold as a unit with the drum, but if you can find a bearing that's the right size you can usually get the old one pressed out and a new one pressed in and be good to go.

An update on this, I learned that it can be very cheap and very easy to find the right bearings and swap them out if you've got some basic tools and space. However all that is for nothing if regular cleaning cycles haven't been run on the washer, as the aluminum "spider" on the back of the drum will corrode away and start cracking. Even if it's removable you likely can't get a replacement. Mine had one small crack from the top that didn't look too bad, but luckily I decided to remove it and flip it over to clean the underside as that side is covered in huge cracks and big chunks of material are missing.

[Ferra]

Any places you can suggest? Preferably, East of Vancouver. Thanks!

Edit: slab is 22-1/2" at its widest
Sorry not in Vancouver, i know a few places if u are in toronto tho :badpokerface:
Search and call up some lumber yard near you on google. Most will have planning services.

Have any of you used vinyl plank flooring in a bathroom? The wife is convinced it's watertight with the sealant it comes with but I'm not so sure.
Outside of the shower area, and if you are not soaking wet they should be fine.
Vinyl plank are waterproof but not watertight. I.e. water will seep thru the very tiny seam between the plank, but very minuscule amount unless the whole floor is flooded.

Better yet, just put it on top of your existing tile floor. Most vinyl planks are thin enough it wont' create any clearance problem. You can probably install the vinyl in a few hours, and easily take them off incase you don't like them anymore or any problems come up.

[underscore]

Good to know, it's in the bathroom that will eventually be the kids bathroom so 99% sure it'll get flooded at some point.

[Hondaracer]

Starting my bathroom next week, turning a seperate water closet and shower/sink room into 1 large bathroom with a big walk in shower.

Ducking bathroom Reno for a small bathroom gonna cost half the price as my entire suite :/

[murd0c]

That sounds about right lol

[murd0c]

Haven't done much the past bit but been getting some more work done the last couple of days. We had shitty wooden paneling in the family/dining room which we decided to take down and installed new insulation. Just have to drywall, mud and paint and we will be good to go!!

https://s1.postimg.org/891tmneafj/wall.jpg[/url]

[underscore]

Our new bathroom vanity got dropped off a few days ago, boy did I screw up with that one. I assumed it would be a kit you had to assemble, it turns out it's in 3 boxes. 1 for the mirror, 1 for the counter top, 1 for the entire assembled vanity. I managed to wrestle the mirror upstairs but the rest is occupying half the garage on a double-sized pallet since it's 70+" long and seems to weight about a million pounds.

[Hondaracer]

Lol yea.. where did you order it from? Costco came 100% together top and everything. Luckily we can only fit a smaller vanity.

Here’s what the rooms used to look like, I can’t find a picture of the tub room but you can kind of get the idea with the picture of the water closet:

https://i.imgur.com/kRV5z9k.jpg

Tearing out the lathe and plaster and blown in insullation and running new plumbing to move the toilet:

https://i.imgur.com/cWTidEz.jpg

Old water closet door patched up

https://i.imgur.com/wvyWBXp.jpg

Finally a fucking toilet in (this is our only bathroom)

https://i.imgur.com/wfJltYV.jpg

Where the vanity will do and perspective as to where the shower is

https://i.imgur.com/54ZOkGK.jpg

Shower coming along

https://i.imgur.com/oDoXxfK.jpg

Have the schluter radiant heat system under the penny tiles

[CCA-Dave]

Haven't worked on the counters / cabinets lately, but I've been building the dining room table and benches. Top will be live edge, but I haven't bought the slab yet. The wood for the frame and benches came from the historic steam mill here in town.

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23000388_10159433894880468_5150813251165315900_o.j pg?oh=ecc4829a8d6f8950a88f92fb9b2376c0&oe=5A9DCF9A

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23004848_10159434730925468_3257194916570202531_o.j pg?oh=2cec294ba3004c31b09db16531bb672b&oe=5A69B84E

Turning rough cut lumber into square, clean, lumber makes a bit of a mess...this is from the two 14-foot boards I used for the bench tops.
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23004406_10159434729650468_4998999906290205473_o.j pg?oh=6cdc27b766369651c426232819c9ef8c&oe=5A682EC1

Finally today, as I was routing the boards for the ends, a clamp slipped and I destroyed one of the bench tops. Sigh. Temporary solution was to cut them shorter, forgo the breadboards, and accept they'll seat two instead of three. Long term they'll likely cup and warp without the breadboards, so at some point I'll have to build new tops at the proper length. Decided it wasn't worth repairing the checking (grey cracks) since they'll be temporary.
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23275381_10159443481260468_9138158363362745805_o.j pg?oh=55c8bc8edc8e2c945a935a88fef3f77a&oe=5AA14F66

Everything should be dry and in the dining room tomorrow...

[N.V.M.]

exposed a spline, eh.

[murd0c]

Our new bathroom vanity got dropped off a few days ago, boy did I screw up with that one. I assumed it would be a kit you had to assemble, it turns out it's in 3 boxes. 1 for the mirror, 1 for the counter top, 1 for the entire assembled vanity. I managed to wrestle the mirror upstairs but the rest is occupying half the garage on a double-sized pallet since it's 70+" long and seems to weight about a million pounds.

why didn't you get them to take it straight to the bathroom?

[CCA-Dave]

exposed a spline, eh.

Yup. That's on the unplanned "well, I guess they are going to be shorter now" cut. No worries, they'll work for bench tops temporarily, and eventually be repurposed into shop shelving :P

[underscore]

why didn't you get them to take it straight to the bathroom?

The original plan was to toss it in the spare bedroom next to the bathroom since the bathroom isn't gutted yet, but it was just one guy by himself and apparently they only do ground-level delivery to the garage or the side of the house or someplace like that. It's all in cardboard so no way was it gonna sit outside in the fall.

[Hondaracer]

Almost there! Have a shower back at least

https://i.imgur.com/GRHGuyb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8DoJLLj.jpg

[blkgsr]

looks good, i like the dark grout colour.....but that paint looks pink??? or is it just the lights you have?

[murd0c]

it looks awesome

[snowball]

looks good, i like the dark grout colour.....but that paint looks pink??? or is it just the lights you have?

Paint looks white to me. Now the question is, is the shoe white and pink, or teal and grey?

[Hondaracer]

It’s all white eggshell paint I think the angle just makes it look like that, there are 3 6” LED pots at 3000k so it’s all pretty white lol

[Doubl3_H]

schluter kit? Hondaracer

[Hondaracer]

For which part? Used the schluter in floor heating system then it was all custom cuts on those end caps, the niche was just framed with board then tiled no pre built schluter box etc.

[Doubl3_H]

The shower base and the walls.

[Hondaracer]

Shower base is actually a custom base made by a company in Edmonton. My contractor has a contact where you give the guy the measurements and the drain location and they build the base custom and handle all the sloping etc so all you have to do is tile to the drain

Also however the drain connects is rated for high rise installation so apparently it’s never suppose to leak the way everything overlaps etc.

Could get the contact if anyone is interested

[Doubl3_H]

^
can you PM me the contact info please

want to see how much it is compare to the schluter kit

[GLOW]

if i never use a laundry basin and i want more room in the laundry area, should i replace the basin with a smaller sink or remove/cap? i read it's not a good idea to just cap due to stale water in unused piping?

[B!tch]

Please keep posting your progress. Reno porn is the best and some of you have nice workshops!

[murd0c]

May as well post a small update, decided to skim all of our ceilings and with that we decided to take out all the drywall since there was old gross wallpaper on it so why fuck around. Going to put some soundproof insulation in as well which will be nice.

https://s7.postimg.org/oz14z9b0b/wall.jpg

[underscore]

Have any of you used something like this UTile system? It seems like you don't have to do any waterproofing which I think would convince the wife we can DIY this and save some money. She wants to hire someone to do the showers to ensure the waterproofing is done right, but if I can just mount this right over wood there's no worries about that.

https://www.rona.ca/en/utile-shower-wall-panel-metro-thunder-grey-60-06385268