[originalhypa]

Inspired by hondaracer's thread tactics for buying used vehicles (https://www.revscene.net/forums/714250-tactics-buying-used-vehicles.html) I've decided to start a new thread on selling used vehicles.

I'm looking at ordering a 2018 Tundra TRD Pro, but it looks like I may need to sell my current Tundra privately. The dealer wants to give me peanuts for it, and I could make upwards of $5-8k if I sell it privately even after taking taxes into consideration. If it was a few g's, I'd say it's not worth the trouble. But $5k is equal to a really nice canopy, and some subwoofers. That's worth it to me.

The problem is that I haven't sold a used vehicle since my STi about 4 years ago, and that was to someone I knew and trusted. Prior to that, the last used car that I sold was in the mid-2000's.

What does a seller need to be aware of when selling a used vehicle?

What are the best forms of advertising and payment?

Any insight, as I know we have some wheeler/dealers on here that are very familiar with the used car market.

:fullofwin:

[Badhobz]

ahhh yes.. the "fun" of selling your vehicle privately. I swear its little wonder why so many people just throw it to the dealerships.

1) list it on everything.. crags/kijijijijijijiij/autotrader/wechat/forums

2) wash it and clean the inside.

3) take GREAT photos of your NON messy car to show how anal retentive you are.

4) post up more than just whats standard features on the car. more like the reasons why you are selling it, what has been done to it, and if any accidents/claims on it.

5) Put up a fair price, just ignore all the low ballers. Look for other listings that are similar to yours and price accordingly. If you think its worth more than others, tell them why.

6) payment is always cash for under 10k, if not do it at the bank right next to a auto plan dealer. Watch the guy make the bank draft.

this is 100000x worse if you try and sell an exotic/sportscar/rare car. Much easier selling a CRV w/ 100,000kms on it to some soccer mom than it is to sell to some other "enthusiast" whos expecting a brand new car for 10% of MSRP.

Ive sold all the families used cars on craigslist so ive met all kinds of "fun" people. thats why i leased my sportwagen...

[320icar]

7) in the ad, keep it shorter and sweet. I hate it when I click on an m3 and it’s a copy paste essay from Wikipedia about the heritage and history of the m3 etc etc

[SpeedStars]

8) always say there's someone else interested and willing to pay your asking if the viewing party doesnt wanna buy.












:troll:

Legit: remove aftermarket parts if you have them. They add little value to cars when sold with them but can be worth more sold individually

[whitev70r]

9) If you can provide maintenance receipts, a recent carfax, and/or a recent mech inspection ... you get bonus points.

[68style]

Look into selling it in the USA, it's super easy... I did it with my RSX almost 2 years ago and I got about $6,000cdn for it when the most I could get in the lower mainland after months of trying was $4,500cdn. That's a pretty significant difference % wise. And that was with Honda USA being complete fucking pricks about the letter the buyer needs.

Toyota (not pricks about giving out info) + Built in USA already = easy sale.

Not sure what year or the details of your Tundra are, but take a quick look on Seattle Craigslist and see for yourself if it's worthwhile.

[hud 91gt]

How much for Tundra. Revscene discount. Less then 2 million KM?

[heleu]

Keep in mind that you can do an "in and out" at the dealer and still get a credit for your trade-in.

i.e. sell your vehicle privately, but do the transaction at the dealer. The dealership owns the car for 1 second and then sells it back to your buyer for the same price.

This way, you get the price you want AND the tax credit.

Before I bought my last new car, I also had to get rid of my higher mileage car and I got $5K more (i.e. $5K dealer offer vs $10K private offer + tax savings) by doing this. Dealers don't want to deal with cars older than 4 years with more than 100K on it...it just goes to auction and that's usually a loss for them.

[ZN6]

There's always people who indicate that you don't HAVE to sell and could keep it if they wanted to. And "Negotiations will be ignored".

Also cliche "Wish I could keep it but need to make room for another project" aka "I'm abandoning this project for one that I think that I can make work. GL HF"

[originalhypa]

Thank you all for the info. This is something I'm not looking forward to, but at the end of the day car sales is better than prostitution. I'm not pretty enough to make a couple thousand in prostitution.
:fullofwin:


Legit: remove aftermarket parts if you have them. They add little value to cars when sold with them but can be worth more sold individually

That's a good call. I have wheel/tires, a canopy, aftermarket exhaust and stereo, side steps, etc. Everything combined is worth a couple thousand, plus I want to keep the tires. They're big and new.


9) If you can provide maintenance receipts, a recent carfax, and/or a recent mech inspection ... you get bonus points.

+1, good call!

Not sure what year or the details of your Tundra are, but take a quick look on Seattle Craigslist and see for yourself if it's worthwhile.

That's a heck of an idea.
I will look into this too.

How much for Tundra. Revscene discount. Less then 2 million KM?

2010 Tundra, 4x4, SR5 quad cab, 182k, clean title. Seats 6, with column shifter (special order from Toyota).

They're ranging from $17-$22k, and the dealer want to give me between $9k and $12k.

But I hate dem craigslist flakes.....
:ahwow:

[whitev70r]

Keep in mind that you can do an "in and out" at the dealer and still get a credit for your trade-in.

i.e. sell your vehicle privately, but do the transaction at the dealer. The dealership owns the car for 1 second and then sells it back to your buyer for the same price.

This way, you get the price you want AND the tax credit.



I've never heard of this creative move, would most salesperson/dealers do this for you? Seems like a lot of paper work on their side with no benefit, other than the sale of the new car to you. Maybe this gives them something to actually do for the $295 documentation fee.

[vitaminG]

lessons learned from selling various vehicles and particularly me e46 330i 6mt which i showed to probably a dozen people and took months to sell.

price it reasonably from the get go. instead of starting high and lowering the price every couple weeks.

most people are idiots and will ask you the same stupid questions because they are too lazy to read your ad. just write a generic response and copy/paste everytime one of these idiots texts you. no need to get frustrated

as for flakers i just assume everyone is a flaker. i will not plan my life around people coming to look at my car, i tell them to call me when they want to see it and if im free then they can come to ME and look at it. i will not meet anyone anywhere.

[hud 91gt]

I guess this explains why I can't find a used truck in this city. Crazy.


As for selling. I never negotiate any pricing over the phone or email. My transactions prior to showing are short and to the point, emails more so then phone calls. If the buyer is serious, they will put in the effort. Keeps the flakes away.

[whitev70r]

Price it a tad higher than your bottom line. You know buyer will talk you down some. Then when you get that number, you are happy and buyer is happy.

[fliptuner]

Ffs dude, you couldn't get a double cab? That's exactly what I'm looking for right now but need the 6' box.

My buddy is looking for a crewmax. I'll see what he thinks. I know he wanted a TRD or limited though. Is yours 5.7, 4x4?

[TouringTeg]

I've bought and sold a few cars and will share a few things I have learned along the way.

- Selling takes time. If you don't want to spend the time list do price it below market or just trade it in and let tofu deal with the hassle.

- Clean the car and take quality photos. Make a solid ad with key items such as mileage, any accidents and if it is local or not (out of province). Highlight any maintenance that has been done.

- Like vitaminG I assume everyone is a flake and don't waste your time meeting someone at a mall or half way (unless they are flying in or taking the ferry they are likely serious buyers) I have picked up buyers at the ferry a bunch of times and only once it did not result in a sale.

- Ignore the low ballers and try not to let them bother you. Plenty of people looking out there looking to buy low and sell high.

- Get two transfer papers and have one filled out as much as possible. This saves everyone a little time so why not. The 2nd is in case someone makes a mistake. The seller does not need to go to an ICBC insurance broker.

- Generally I accept or use cash or cashier cheque/draft if I witness them getting it at the bank. I had someone attempt to give me a fake draft once. Bonus points if you both use the same bank and do a transfer in a branch.

[Gh0stRider]

Thank you all for the info. This is something I'm not looking forward to, but at the end of the day car sales is better than prostitution. I'm not pretty enough to make a couple thousand in prostitution.
:fullofwin:





But I hate dem craigslist flakes.....
:ahwow:


Haven't you learned anything from the past? lol

[The Producer]

I've bought and sold a few cars and will share a few things I have learned along the way.

- Selling takes time. If you don't want to spend the time list do price it below market or just trade it in and let tofu deal with the hassle.

- Clean the car and take quality photos. Make a solid ad with key items such as mileage, any accidents and if it is local or not (out of province). Highlight any maintenance that has been done.

- Like vitaminG I assume everyone is a flake and don't waste your time meeting someone at a mall or half way (unless they are flying in or taking the ferry they are likely serious buyers) I have picked up buyers at the ferry a bunch of times and only once it did not result in a sale.

- Ignore the low ballers and try not to let them bother you. Plenty of people looking out there looking to buy low and sell high.

- Get two transfer papers and have one filled out as much as possible. This saves everyone a little time so why not. The 2nd is in case someone makes a mistake. The seller does not need to go to an ICBC insurance broker.

- Generally I accept or use cash or cashier cheque/draft if I witness them getting it at the bank. I had someone attempt to give me a fake draft once. Bonus points if you both use the same bank and do a transfer in a branch.

only thing I disagree with is the time thing

if you know the market and price appropriately, a sale tends to happen quickly. I've sold multiple cars within 2-3 days of posting.

finally the big one - confidence. if you get a blow hard buyer that thinks they can push you around, tell them to pound sand.

I promise you that if you write a detailed ad, take excellent pictures, pre-address in your ad any known issues (real or internet BS) that sellers will bring up to try and low ball you - the car will sell fast.

Only time I ever got myself into trouble in a sale was a car that I didn't know enough about myself. lesson learned.

I guess most of this applies to the buying thread too - I adopt the same attitude, and I'm always willing to walk away (cliche but true)

[kkttsang]

What do you guys do for allowing test drives because if anything happens it’s under your insurance and you get screwed. Do you drive it and they ride shot gun? I can understand it will be hard to buy without test drive. So is that a risk the seller just have to live with?

[vash13]

^^^ Good question and on top of that what do you think about letting buyers test drive a manual car?

[kchan]

I've never heard of this creative move, would most salesperson/dealers do this for you? Seems like a lot of paper work on their side with no benefit, other than the sale of the new car to you. Maybe this gives them something to actually do for the $295 documentation fee.

most will do it for the documentation fee

of course you will have to do the calculation to see if its worth the tax savings (in most cases its yes, but some dealers like to charge $295, some $500, I've even seen $800) - and you'll be eating the documentation fee 99% of the time unless the buyer is willing to split (very unlikely)

but this also means that the seller will be paying more tax if he/she was planning on reporting purchase value lower than the actual sale price

however - i have heard that some dealerships are now stopping from doing this in the event that the car is a lemon/has issues

tip:
disclose everything - be honest and up front to the seller
based on their reaction you could pretty much figure out if they are a tire kicker or actually is serious about purchasing your car

What do you guys do for allowing test drives because if anything happens it’s under your insurance and you get screwed. Do you drive it and they ride shot gun? I can understand it will be hard to buy without test drive. So is that a risk the seller just have to live with?

never - i've been in an accident where a buyer put down deposit on the car and caused damage to the car then decided to not buy it.
i have no issues with driving the potential buyer around - or even to a PPI place

[TouringTeg]

Test drives are a tough one.

I had a buyer fly all the way out from Toronto to buy my Supra and he did not feel comfortable test driving it. I drove him. It was shipped to him later.

In another case I have seen the seller pull the plate off another car and put it on the car for sale and toss the keys to the interested buyer to drive it. That would be a heck of a mess if there was an accident.

[hud 91gt]

I think that is a risk you need to take when selling a vehicle. If your not comfortable with it, then you are losing many potential buyers. If i'm buying a used vehicle, damn rights I'm driving it. Obviously the more "special" the car is, the more precautions you need to take. If it were a high powered vehicle, i'd probably give them a test drive myself and run the poop out of it, then let them go for a little boot around the block to ensure they aren't noticing any strange driving characteristics.

[UnknownJinX]

What do you guys do for allowing test drives because if anything happens it’s under your insurance and you get screwed. Do you drive it and they ride shot gun? I can understand it will be hard to buy without test drive. So is that a risk the seller just have to live with?

What I have personally done is driving the darkness around myself a little bit with the looker, and then take it to UVic, where the road is simple, and switch seats. Find an area around you that has simple roads.

^^^ Good question and on top of that what do you think about letting buyers test drive a manual car?

Usually, if you are looking to buy a manual car, you would at least have some idea about how to drive it, otherwise, why would you even look at a manual car?

When I was buying a beater Corolla to practice manual in, the old lady seller was really patient with me. We were on back roads, so it wasn't a huge issue if I stalled. I tried to be very slow with the clutch since I was not very good at it. The old lady was very nice and patient, too, and every time I stalled, she would encourage me and give me tips.

When I sold it, the dude who bought it drove his friend's car to see my car, which is also a stick shift. He drove the Corolla with ease.

I'd say that if they look nervous and fairly new to manual, be patient, give them tips, and watch out for the traffic around them and give them a head up if necessary.

[Lomac]

Will buy today. Have 43ma cash in hand.


:troll:


Everyone else has more or less given any advice I would have, so I'll just say good luck dealing with the Craigslist asshats. If you're sticking with private, try using Kijiji as well. I've had fewer flakes and more actual sales on there compared to CL.

[Badhobz]

The assholes on Craigslist never ceases to amaze me. I had this guy complain about the colour of the car and wanted a few gs off because he would have to repaint it. Im like the colour was stated clearly in the ad along with all the photos.... Why did you even come see it if you didn't like the colour.

[jpark]

nothing pisses me off more then people asking "what is your lowest price" "what is your bottomline" Bitch my price is fucking listed. I'd rather have people throw me lowball offers instead of asking that stupid question.

[whitev70r]

nothing pisses me off more then people asking "what is your lowest price" "what is your bottomline" Bitch my price is fucking listed. I'd rather have people throw me lowball offers instead of asking that stupid question.

Price it a tad higher than your bottom line. You know buyer will talk you down some. Then when you get that number, you are happy and buyer is happy.

It's part of the 'game'. Human nature to want to get a few hundred dollars off a big ticket item. Just play along ... why get all pissy about it? Life is too short. If that question pisses you off, stay off CL.

[hud 91gt]

I’m with jpark on that one. You ask one question and expect my lowest price? That’s what work and negotiation tactics are for. Fucking lazy ass millennials lol

[Lomac]

It's part of the 'game'. Human nature to want to get a few hundred dollars off a big ticket item. Just play along ... why get all pissy about it? Life is too short. If that question pisses you off, stay off CL.

If it's just one or two people who ask, then fine. But when almost every single person emailing or calling about the ad either lowballs you or flat out asks for bottom line (my go-to response is the listed price) without even bothering to see the car... then they can fuck off.

[whitev70r]

nothing pisses me off more then people asking "what is your lowest price" "what is your bottomline" Bitch my price is fucking listed. I'd rather have people throw me lowball offers instead of asking that stupid question.

If it's just one or two people who ask, then fine. But when almost every single person emailing or calling about the ad either lowballs you or flat out asks for bottom line (my go-to response is the listed price) without even bothering to see the car... then they can fuck off.

Based on original post, I didn't see it as first question or an email, I imagined it to be a prospective buyer who tested the car, interested, and now in the negotiating stage for price.

If it is a first email inquiry to my posting, I don't even bother replying. Still won't get all pissy about it though. Maybe original poster should learn how to write in sentences with punctuation.

[bomberR17]

What about on trading cars as well? Someone offers you a car +/- cash. Would you guys do anything differently?

[Jmac]

When I sold my car a few years back, I originally had it listed for $4500 ... had a few inquiries, not much interest. Re-listed at $4400 a week later, ditto. Re-listed at $4300 after another week and I was getting e-mails like crazy. Had over a dozen people arrange to come view it (of course, most of them flaked). Sold a few days later for $4k.

I couldn't believe what a difference $200 list price made.

[Lomac]

Based on original post, I didn't see it as first question or an email, I imagined it to be a prospective buyer who tested the car, interested, and now in the negotiating stage for price.

If it is a first email inquiry to my posting, I don't even bother replying. Still won't get all pissy about it though.

Heh, fair enough. I've sold more than my fair share of cars and other items online so I naturally went to the email route first instead of assuming it was after a test drive.

[jpark]

Based on original post, I didn't see it as first question or an email, I imagined it to be a prospective buyer who tested the car, interested, and now in the negotiating stage for price.

If it is a first email inquiry to my posting, I don't even bother replying. Still won't get all pissy about it though. Maybe original poster should learn how to write in sentences with punctuation.

Seems like you’re the real pissy one here LOL.

[heleu]

I've never sold a used car worth more than $10K. I'm assuming at that price range, most buyers can scrape/borrow that much.

Any tips for selling a car between $20-$30K? I'm assuming most people would need some sort of bank financing which would be more difficult.

[originalhypa]

I picked out my new Tundra, so there's that.
But it's tough to part with my current truck. It still drives so well, and has so many great little things. Like a nicely upgraded stereo, lots of lights, exhaust, canopy, lift, wheels and tires. I could do a few things to the new truck, but it will take time to get it the way I like it.

Or I could just buy a Raptor.
:nyan:


Will buy today. Have 43ma cash in hand.

We mod cars with cheap pasts.
Mooman Hasaset, ftw.
:fullofwin:



Why did you even come see it if you didn't like the colour.

4Head
Had a guy come out to look at my G8. I told him the three issues the car has. He jumps in with "Well I didn't know the LCD screen wasn't working".

Buddy, I told you it wasn't working. It was the first thing I mentioned after saying "These are the things wrong with the car". I've already taken that into account with my pricing, this is not a point of negotiation.

That's why I still have that car. Also, burnouts.


What about on trading cars as well? Someone offers you a car +/- cash. Would you guys do anything differently?

Transfer papers, and cash.
That's all you would need outside of inspections and test drives.


Seems like you’re the real pissy one here LOL.

EleGiggle

triggered!

[hchang]

DO NOT TYPE IN ALL CAPS

[MarkyMark]

I picked out my new Tundra, so there's that.
But it's tough to part with my current truck. It still drives so well, and has so many great little things. Like a nicely upgraded stereo, lots of lights, exhaust, canopy, lift, wheels and tires. I could do a few things to the new truck, but it will take time to get it the way I like it.

Or I could just buy a Raptor.
:nyan:




I can't believe the prices they are asking for those new Raptors, when they hell did they go up to around 100k? The last gen was around 65k fully loaded, what a joke.

[Gh0stRider]

I hate the douchebag sellers that dont reply to emails.

[noclue]

I picked out my new Tundra, so there's that.
But it's tough to part with my current truck. It still drives so well, and has so many great little things. Like a nicely upgraded stereo, lots of lights, exhaust, canopy, lift, wheels and tires. I could do a few things to the new truck, but it will take time to get it the way I like it.

Or I could just buy a Raptor.
:nyan:


I like Toyota's dependability and resale value but damn the Tundra hasn't been changed since 2007, only added a couple of facelifts. In that time period the F150 was redesigned twice and you'll get more bang for your buck.

[vash13]

Watch out for PayPal scammers. I'm selling a used vehicle on craiglist and they keep asking to pay through PayPal.

[Badhobz]

Watch out for PayPal scammers. I'm selling a used vehicle on craiglist and they keep asking to pay through PayPal.

I'll get on that as soon as the king of Nigeria brings me my millions

[originalhypa]

I can't believe the prices they are asking for those new Raptors, when they hell did they go up to around 100k? The last gen was around 65k fully loaded, what a joke.

werd.
They're nice trucks, but I just priced out a Super Crew Raptor, with not a lot of options at a price of $96,657.

the options they offer are a bit silly too. I didn't want $2500 worth of exterior graphics, nor did I want this $2500 package.

The Raptor Technology Package includes:

• Automatic High Beam with Rain-Sensing Windshield Wipers
• Lane-Keeping System (Alert + Assist)
• Adaptive Cruise Control with Collision Warning and Brake Support

Add $1250 for some carbon fiber bits, and another $950 for a gaudy looking orange stripe in the interior, and you're over the $100k mark.

The standard equipment is nice. But I have to admit, I'm not a fan of a TT V6 in a truck. Three of my vehicles are V8 powered, and you miss the instant torque of a big cube motor once it's gone.

I like Toyota's dependability and resale value but damn the Tundra hasn't been changed since 2007, only added a couple of facelifts. In that time period the F150 was redesigned twice and you'll get more bang for your buck.

I agree with you that the Tundra hasn't changed much. But Toyota has long been known to constantly improve their vehicles as time goes on. So in effect, they have been making changes for a decade. While Ford has had to throw in 10 speed transmissions and LED puddle lights, Toyota didn't have to go gimmicky because their buyers aren't looking for knick knacks. Toyota buyers want reliability, and that's what keeps me coming back.

I've had Dodge and Ford products in the past. When something goes wrong, it's not a lightbulb or something simple. It's a new rear end, or new front end suspension components. In the 183,000 km that I've had my Tundra, I have never had an issue. It has never left me stranded in Princeton in -18 weather. It drives like it did when I bought it, albeit a little taller and wider. It looks great, and still has some value in the used market.

I have cars that I drive for fun. I need a truck that I can trust over anything. It helps that the TRD Pro are pretty sweet trucks, and have great reliability.

[fliptuner]

If I buy it, will you pay 1yr of personal plates?

WZ HYPZ

[underscore]

1) list it on everything.. crags/kijijijijijijiij/autotrader/wechat/forums

Fuck kijiji. All I got from listing there was a bunch of calls from the knobs at AutoDex trying to get info for insurance payouts. They pretend to be searching for a replacement car for a client. It wouldn't be so bad if they kept track of who they called, but I got calls from them repeatedly for the same ad. I started just making stuff up to give them useless info to sell.

The seller does not need to go to an ICBC insurance broker.

You do need to at least keep the sellers copy of the form though. Personally I always go so I can ensure it gets transferred into their name and that I won't have any headaches if they decide to not transfer it and do something stupid with it.

- Generally I accept or use cash or cashier cheque/draft if I witness them getting it at the bank. I had someone attempt to give me a fake draft once. Bonus points if you both use the same bank and do a transfer in a branch.

Same deal here, go with them if at all possible. I usually exchange the money at the insurance broker (buying or selling) just to keep the two parts of the transaction as close together as possible to avoid risk.

[Great68]

The standard equipment is nice. But I have to admit, I'm not a fan of a TT V6 in a truck. Three of my vehicles are V8 powered, and you miss the instant torque of a big cube motor once it's gone.



You know, I always thought that too, but 480 ft/lb @ 2900rpm at the rear wheels on a Mustang Dyno completely changed my opinion:

https://i.imgur.com/nEfU2NQ.jpg

[originalhypa]

That torque curve (can I call it that?) is so peaky, then it drops off like a rock

I'm honestly starting to like big cubes. Add a blower to a Tundra, and you're in similar power territory, except with a starting point of 5.7L

And just look at that torque. Those are tire spinning numbers, all day long.

http://www.smokeysdyno.com/articles/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Toyota-Tundra-Dyno-Graph.jpg

I guarantee that this is more fun to drive, sounds better, and will prove to be more reliable in the long run.

That said, I'm not in the market for a supercharger, and I probably wouldn't mess with the stock turbos on my daily driver. I still have nightmares of my FMIC hose blowing off at 22 psi on the Rocket Rally dyno. Scared the shit out of me, Pat, and anyone else who was in earshot.
:rofl:

[underscore]

You know, I always thought that too, but 480 ft/lb @ 2900rpm at the rear wheels on a Mustang Dyno completely changed my opinion

That sheet looks funky, aren't torque and hp supposed to cross at 5252rpm? Why are they crossing at 3800ish?

[Gh0stRider]

That said, I'm not in the market for a supercharger, and I probably wouldn't mess with the stock turbos on my daily driver. I still have nightmares of my FMIC hose blowing off at 22 psi on the Rocket Rally dyno. Scared the shit out of me, Pat, and anyone else who was in earshot.
:rofl:

Which vehicle was that?

[Great68]

That sheet looks funky, aren't torque and hp supposed to cross at 5252rpm? Why are they crossing at 3800ish?

I dunno, ask Racing Greed.

[Great68]

That torque curve (can I call it that?) is so peaky, then it drops off like a rock

I'm honestly starting to like big cubes. Add a blower to a Tundra, and you're in similar power territory, except with a starting point of 5.7L

And just look at that torque. Those are tire spinning numbers, all day long.

http://www.smokeysdyno.com/articles/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Toyota-Tundra-Dyno-Graph.jpg

I guarantee that this is more fun to drive, sounds better, and will prove to be more reliable in the long run.

That said, I'm not in the market for a supercharger, and I probably wouldn't mess with the stock turbos on my daily driver. I still have nightmares of my FMIC hose blowing off at 22 psi on the Rocket Rally dyno. Scared the shit out of me, Pat, and anyone else who was in earshot.
:rofl:

I was just talking about low end punch in the back factor that you mention. No argument there about V8 sound.

Debateable about reliability though, this was with simple bolt ons: Intakes, exhaust, intercooler and an OTS tune (SCT). Stock longblock & turbos. A supercharger's a pretty "major" bolt on, definately at much more cost as well.

[Great68]

Going back to the original topic of the thread, I've sold every one of my vehicles at my asking price

Although for my old Ranger I had one guy pull the "I thought ad said $5000"
Me: Nope, $6500
Next day sold the truck for the full $6500 to someone else, first dude called me back that next day asking "Hey is your truck still for sale"
Me: "Nope sold today"
Him: "Do you mind telling me how much?"
Me: "What I asked"

I think a lot of it has to do with:

- Complete service history, document everything, highlight all recent work especially if you have receipts

- Good pictures, after a wash in good lighting, good setting, good resolution, lots of angles, take picture of odo not just a vague kms number

- Act professionally, like a salesman would. Reply to requests promptly, in full proper english, none of this abbreviated texting bullshit.

- Price is always what I consider fair, I do my research about where it should be based on what else I see out there for condition, features & mileage. Some people think way too much of themselves simply keeping a car clean thinking it should be the most valuable one of its range. I'll take a bit of dirt and grime and an unhacked car over 20,000 extra kilometers on the odo and a bunch of "mods" even if that car is spotless.

- I don't accept any offer given to me by email, I always reply with "How about you come see the car and we can negotiate price at that time". Really gives me the upper hand over keyboard warrior introverts that cave at real human interaction. Also helps weed out the people who aren't really serious.

[Great68]

It's part of the 'game'. Human nature to want to get a few hundred dollars off a big ticket item. Just play along ... why get all pissy about it? Life is too short. If that question pisses you off, stay off CL.

I don't know why you're getting failed.

In my opinion price on EVERYTHING used is negotiable.

I've paid full asking for many things that I felt were at a reasonable amount where I wanted to pay, but I've also thrown out lower offers when ads said firm because I knew those people were asking space case prices.

Worst they say is "no", so I either say "fine" and pay full if I really want it or walk away. No skin off my back, and I don't give a shit if some stranger is butthurt, what's it to me? I don't lowball though, don't cut someone's asking price in half and think you're going to get it for that, this isn't pawn stars. In my example above I didn't get upset the guy wanted to hit me $1500 lower than I was asking (I wouldn't even have considered that a lowball) I just stood my ground cause I knew what I wanted and what it was worth.

[hud 91gt]

That sheet looks funky, aren't torque and hp supposed to cross at 5252rpm? Why are they crossing at 3800ish?

I thought that too, until I realize the Torque scale on the left is different then the HP scale on the right.

[fliptuner]

If I buy it, will you pay 1yr of personal plates?

WZ HYPZ

At Autoplan, picking up application :pokerface:

[originalhypa]

Which vehicle was that?

Yours.
:D

No damage done outside of the heart attack I had when the hose blew off. And that's why I stopped running the APS 750 fmic. Too much lag, too much hose blowoff.

Debateable about reliability though, this was with simple bolt ons: Intakes, exhaust, intercooler and an OTS tune (SCT). Stock longblock & turbos. A supercharger's a pretty "major" bolt on, definately at much more cost as well.

Agreed that a supercharger is more than a bolt on, that's for sure. Pricing out the blower for my Tundra, and it's currently sitting at $6800 usd. That's ready to bolt on with everything you need, but you're probably lookin at $500 to install, then tuning time. It does go beyond just simple BPU+ modifications.

I've been reading about the Ford TT V6 and the more I read, the more impressed I am.

https://i.imgur.com/nEfU2NQ.jpg

For the record, the reason the torque curve looks like this is because the boost peaked (or spiked) low in the rev range, then they probably had to taper it down. The factory Borg Warner turbos on the V6 are pretty small. Just like what we used to do with the stock WRX turbo, spike them at low rpm, then taper down before heat ruins the party.

At Autoplan, picking up application :pokerface:

:shefap:

[Limitless]

Replying to OP:

A lot of it has already been said, but here are my opinions:

Price it fairly, expect to get lowballed at least a couple hundred bucks. This is not always the case, but most of the time it is as people are always looking for 'deals'. If you're firm on a certain price, put the price a few hundred above it and let the buyer round it out.

Be transparent and descriptive about all the pros and cons (maintenance done, records, any damages/mechanical issues). Try to answer all the questions you would ask if you were to buy a used car, that way the sale goes quicker and you don't have to answer the same questions over and over again.

Emphasize all good selling points, present the cons thoroughly but in a positive manner if you can.

Take detailed pictures of exterior, interior, and the cluster. Preferably good lighting and at good angles, good pictures will grab the most attention.

Be a nice guy. Try your best to be accommodating and not cocky, no one likes it when people who try to sell their cars think buyers aren't worth their time. That being said, try to minimize negotiating and test drives until the buyer has actually seen the car and expressed a decent amount of interest in buying it.


I find that it's much easier to sell a car at a good price within the first few weeks than it is to have the car sit on the listings for months. If there are things that are easy to fix and doesn't cost a lot, I would fix them and use it to your advantage. It's easier to spend $30 on parts and a bit of your time to present a cleaner car. GLWS!

[mr00jimbo]

I've only sold one car privately, and the experience still sours me 13 years later.

People will call you and waste your fucking time with questions and you know they won't buy it. "Oh...it says 9k...I see another one listed for 8k..."

I had one guy call me when I had a car listed for say, 11k. He kept offering me 9k, every day. I kept telling him no. Then one day he called to offer 9k and I told him it was sold and he flipped out.

Somehow selling a car brings out really lonely, bored people.

I had somebody downshift from 5th to 2nd without rev matching and asked if the car had transmission issues when it jerked hard. Thankfully 2nd was tall enough to still be below redline at that speed.

But dealers will offer you little, so unless you want the dealer to take thousands in value, you gotta go through it.

[smoothie.]

HOT CHICK IN PICTURES

generates traffic

traffic generates interest

[underscore]

^ the Richard Hammond school of naming, just misspell it "Angelina Jolie Topless"

[exilegod]

if your car can't sell for a long time it means your price is too high. lower the price, that might help

just personal experience

[banshee]

...kijiji. All I got from listing there was a bunch of calls from the knobs at AutoDex trying to get info for insurance payouts. They pretend to be searching for a replacement car for a client. It wouldn't be so bad if they kept track of who they called, but I got calls from them repeatedly for the same ad. I started just making stuff up to give them useless info to sell.


Can you elaborate on this a bit? I might be selling a car soon.

[banshee]

Re: hagglers and low-ballers.

What I've done is list it for a fair price and be upfront with any deficiencies/problems.

And then say that I'm open to talking price but they'll have to defend their (lower) offer. Usually, they can't.

[underscore]

Can you elaborate on this a bit? I might be selling a car soon.

They would call up asking about the car, typically going one question at a time through all the stuff already in the ad (ie does it still have xxx km, does it have this motor, does it have this trans, does it have power windows). After wasting a ton of your time they'll say they're searching for a vehicle for a customer and will contact you if the customer is interested. What they're really trying to do is gather information to sell to an insurance company that is trying to determine how much to pay out to someone with a similar car that has been totaled. They have zero interest in purchasing your vehicle.

[Energy]

Price it fairly and try to have a presentable ad.

When I say presentable I mean multiple good photos showing the entire car - interior and exterior. I hate when ads only have one or two photos or if the photos are grainy or taken in the dark.

Its also good to use proper grammar and punctuation.

[originalhypa]

Its also good to use proper grammar and punctuation.

This is one thing that a lot of people forget. You're entering into a business deal with someone so you should put in the time and effort to show that you're as professional as possible. If you are too lazy to use proper grammar, chances are you're too lazy to maintain your vehicle. Messy car = messy life, and vice versa.

[fliptuner]

The same can be said for weeding out shitty buyers. I don't know how many times I've edged out other people, purely cause I can form a proper email, include a contact number and say please and thank you.


I don't waste my time responding to people that send shitty emails.

[underscore]

The same can be said for weeding out shitty buyers. I don't know how many times I've edged out other people, purely cause I can form a proper email, include a contact number and say please and thank you.


I don't waste my time responding to people that send shitty emails.

I once got an email with just a number. No questions, no hey is it available, just:

6k

I didn't respond.

[originalhypa]

Update on my truck sale.
Thanks to this thread, i have found a buyer for my 2010. He's a handsome fellow with great hair (no ghey :gay: ). One could say he is a legend among men. He is also an old school revscene member.

Fast forward to Thursday. I'm on main and marine popping into the chicken place for lunch before I hit up the Toyota dealer to order my new truck.

Guy in a euro suv is parked close to me. Close enough that I can't get into my vehicle. He sees this and comes outside to move his suv. That's when I noticed he scraped my drivers side door as he was pulling into the spot.

I calmly bring this up to him, and he denies it right away. I point out that there is a new scratch on my door, that just happens to line up with a new scratch on his front bumper. I insist that he comes out to talk to me, which he eventually does.

Long story short, the guy who hit me is an old school revscene member himself. He was embarrassed that he hit hypa's truck and took responsibility.

Now I have a new truck on order, and an old truck that I need to take care of before the sale goes through.

I didn't even get my chicken.
:(

[underscore]

Marco911 is buying a 2010 Tundra?

[originalhypa]

He needs something to tow his old Volkswagen.

:fullofwin:

[quasi]

After so many time wasters on CL last year I relisted my bike again last week. Had an email first day, guy said was interested but was going out of town so wouldn't be available to look at it for a few days, I think yeah right.

He actually calls a few days later, comes and looks at it, makes me a reasonable offer and hands me a cash deposit on the spot. Comes back the following Monday (yesterday) hands me an envelope of cash I hand him the registration and title, he loads it on his trailer done deal.

Smoothest vehicle sale by far. As many tire kickers and moron time wasters as there are there is always that one person that is somewhat reasonable.

[SkunkWorks]

After so many time wasters on CL last year I relisted my bike again last week. Had an email first day, guy said was interested but was going out of town so wouldn't be available to look at it for a few days, I think yeah right.

He actually calls a few days later, comes and looks at it, makes me a reasonable offer and hands me a cash deposit on the spot. Comes back the following Monday (yesterday) hands me an envelope of cash I hand him the registration and title, he loads it on his trailer done deal.

Smoothest vehicle sale by far. As many tire kickers and moron time wasters as there are there is always that one person that is somewhat reasonable.

That's awesome.

From my experience, anytime anyone says "I'm serious", it has always been a flaker or tirekicker.

[fliptuner]

Update on my truck sale.
Thanks to this thread, i have found a buyer for my 2010. He's a handsome fellow with great hair (no ghey :gay: ). One could say he is a legend among men. He is also an old school revscene member.

Dat me, DAT ME !!! :fullofwin:

So easy to deal with normal people who know how to communicate, take care of their shit and keep their word.

Hypa needed the truck for a bit longer, while he got his new truck set-up and I wasn't in a rush anyways. We settled on a price right off the bat and a few weeks later, I paid and picked it up. No concerns on either end that the deal would fall through, even though some time had passed.

I was actually looking for a higher trim level (same body configuration), with a couple of bells and whistles but couldn't pass up on something I know was well maintained and has all the mods that will keep it going, reliably, for years to come. Super excited to take this bad boy on a roadtrip.

Thanks again, dude!

https://i.imgur.com/UheIqhQ_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

[hud 91gt]

I’m kind of jealous. After half ass looking for a truck lately I think you got a good
One!