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Old 12-03-2005, 12:33 AM   #1
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FYI: Want to learn to HOTWAX your snowboard?

I posted this in a snowboard forum a long while ago. But i thought that it might be relevant now that the snow is falling more consistantly.

anyways.

Enjoy....if there are any questions...feel free to ask.

Anyways, when i was racing boarderX on a more competative level, the methods i used to wax my boards was farely complex, but it got the job done.

first i made sure that my board was room temp, because if the board is cold, then the base will not be porous enough to absorb the wax, and a hot iron on a cold base can actually damage it.

After the base and the rest of the board is room temp. I usually clean the base free from the old wax, and allow it to be free from any impurities.

After the base is cleaned....i take my iron [can be any old iron, i was never picky about temperature senstative irons. I used an old iron on it's lowest setting], and drip the wax of choice onto the running surface. And then another wax of choice on the outer 2 inch's ensuring that its more durable for edging, and no dry spots later on.

Generally the wax that is placed on the edges are extreme cold temp wax, and is heaps harder than the running surface wax.

After i feel i placed enough wax on the board, i then proceed with melting it all into place onto the board. Starting from nose and moving my way towards the tail.

My preferance was to always wax in the direction of nose to tail, never waxing in circles or across the edges. Dust can settle into the melted wax and cause small scratches onto a heated base.

The think i learned about hot waxing over the years was to always try and heat the board all the way through to the core and onto the topsheet of the board. Basically if you wax the board long enough and the topsheet feels warm to the touch, then you have done a good enough job and you can then proceed to let it cool down.

With me, i usually cool it down in the same room i let it warm up as well. That way there is no difference and nothing drastically changin the temp of the board.

Plus scraping room temp wax is a lot easier than COLD wax.

Again, i scrape from nose to tail, in the direction i ride. Just a preferance. And with a plastic scraper. Much safer on the base, and much more predictable.

The idea of scraping is to leave the wax on the base that is within the pores of the polyethalene base. Not leave the wax on the surface of the base. So when you are riding on the snow. It create a microfilm of water which is creating less friction, resulting in a faster glide.

AFter you felt that you have scraped the board till you can't anymore. it's then time to buff.

Buffing is great for those bases that have a stoneground finish. Because it can get into the divots of the base and remove all the wax from there as well. The wax that the scraper can't remove.

I usually use a scotch bright pad, and again, from nose to tail. Buff till there is a shine.

After that. it's ready to ride.

My method is not a 10 minute wax job....it actually takes me roughly an hour to do it properly.

[Edited by Ch28]

The site below has a video that teaches you how to wax your board for all the people that are visual learners.

http://www.sierrasnowboard.com/snowboard-advice.asp
Advertisement
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Last edited by Ch28; 12-19-2007 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:20 AM   #2
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where can i go to get my board waxed?
for a small price as well as a good job...
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:01 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by PeP
where can i go to get my board waxed?
for a small price as well as a good job...
goof
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Old 12-03-2005, 11:40 AM   #4
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your way requires to many things...
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Old 12-03-2005, 12:19 PM   #5
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Thanx for the tutorial! Im in the process of doing my skis. I did one last night (ran out of time), and i'll do the other one day.. tomorrow im going to cypress lol w000

For buffing, if I dont have a scotch bright pad, what can i use instead? I was just using a towel and buffing quick circles from top to bottom.

And can I still buff it more this morning? Even tho I did everything last night? Or should I redo the process?
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Old 12-04-2005, 02:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by redliine
Thanx for the tutorial! Im in the process of doing my skis. I did one last night (ran out of time), and i'll do the other one day.. tomorrow im going to cypress lol w000

For buffing, if I dont have a scotch bright pad, what can i use instead? I was just using a towel and buffing quick circles from top to bottom.

And can I still buff it more this morning? Even tho I did everything last night? Or should I redo the process?
I suppose something like a brillo pad would work just fine. As I was taught (I'm hoping you concur Vangruver), the point of buffing your ski's/board is to tell the water which way to go when you're riding. You should be going in straight lines from tip to tail for conditions like these ... And in the spring time, more of a V shape (because it's warmer), with the tip of the V pointing towards the front of the board ski. Buffing in circles isn't going to do you a whole lot of good.

I can't stress enough that you want a LOW temperature to MELT the wax. Burning is bad. As well like Vangruver said, use a PLASTIC scraper for waxing. A metal scraper will only put unnecessary scratches in your board, and should really only be used for base repairs or de-lams anyway.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by PeP
your way requires to many things...
relax.
yer still a goof

Redliine.....to be quite honest with you....in regards to buffing..its not a necessity to do such.

Its really important in the spring when speed is hard to come by. With all this new snow now and the temps being colder than -2 its OK to leave your skiis/board non buffed after scraped....it wont kill your speed, not at all.

IT is very important, however, if you speed is of the essence....when 2 microseconds can mean winning or not.
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Last edited by Vangruver; 12-04-2005 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:30 AM   #8
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Cool man thanks. Well I finished them up.. I buffed them anyway and they look pretty good.. btw im not going up today! have to wait till next weekend
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Old 12-08-2005, 07:43 PM   #9
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after hot waxing my board, i notice that there's wax on the sharp edges. do i scrape that 2mm's worth of wax off.. or do i leave it on? thx.
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Old 12-08-2005, 08:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by no_limitz
after hot waxing my board, i notice that there's wax on the sharp edges. do i scrape that 2mm's worth of wax off.. or do i leave it on? thx.
on most scrapers, there is a knotch...and that knotch is ment for the edges.

You can scrape it off, or you can leave it on...either way you go upon doing it...when you ski/ride, the snow will wear it down to the metal anyways.

I generally scrape it off.

Its all preferance.
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Old 12-08-2005, 09:08 PM   #11
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^ sweet thx.
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Old 12-11-2005, 07:27 PM   #12
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hey where do you get your wax and scraper?

like...is there anything that's better than another?

You mentioned that the outer wax is harder and whatnot...do you have any brands or..something that i can look for to make sure i have the right kind of wax?
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Old 12-11-2005, 09:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
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hey where do you get your wax and scraper?

like...is there anything that's better than another?

You mentioned that the outer wax is harder and whatnot...do you have any brands or..something that i can look for to make sure i have the right kind of wax?
you can get a scraper anywhere that sells snowboards basically....sport check, sportmart, all the stores on west 4th.

Scrapers aren't that expensive..although there are some that are pricier than others....for what reason, i don't know..its just hard plexy glass.

Wax can be found at the same stores that the scrapers are found....but some stores might carry better brands than others.

For GOOD wax...look towards burton, swix, or KUU...you can skimp out on sh!ittier wax, but keep in mind that if you aren't concerned about speed or durability, you can go cheaper.

Waxes are usually found in temperature ranges....where the harder the wax, the colder the temp range.

For general riding, and just keeping things simple....stick with basic all temp all purpose wax.

But if you are a strict speed freak, then wax for the right conditions.

any other questions feel free to ask.
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:02 PM   #14
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awesome thx =)
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:47 PM   #15
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bump
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:28 PM   #16
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this should be sticky thanks man
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Old 01-04-2007, 07:25 PM   #17
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I used a 10 dollar superstore iron a pack of wax and a 2 dollar ice scraper. Easy .
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:33 PM   #18
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anyone tried a car window ice scraper?

i've been using razor blades with so-so results...usually it leaves too much wax and the board isn't super fast till some wears off..thanks for the writeup
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Old 01-05-2007, 12:38 AM   #19
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just got a huge bar of KUU wax for $19.99 and a scraper for $7.99 at Whistler, gunna wax my skis tomorrow
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:29 PM   #20
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argh, didnt know it was so much work, took me almost one hour to do just one of my skis
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:52 AM   #21
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Which brand/type of wax is good and where can I get it?
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:02 PM   #22
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In December, I learned on my own through a friend and this process is a lot easier than it seems, don't be afraid to do this guys.

I did both my skis in under 30 easily and that's doing it carefully too. Just drip wax onto it, use heat to massage it in, let it cool, scrape it, wipe/buff it, that's it. Big difference in speed and feel once you get onto the slopes.

Thanks Vangruver for posting this, it'll help a lot of people
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Old 01-16-2007, 09:27 AM   #23
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Hey Van, quick question: Is it ok to use those old irons with holes on the bottom? or do you NEED a flat surface iron?
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Old 01-16-2007, 03:10 PM   #24
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holes are fine. as long as there's no bumps of wax on the other side. either way, you'll have to scrape the remnants so it's all good.

cheap old irons from value village >> snowboard iron
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Old 01-16-2007, 07:56 PM   #25
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was away for a trip to tour the hills of the interior, waxed my new deck for the first time this season.

normally don't wax at all since all i do now is park junk.

but man, waxing for the right conditions makes a world of difference.
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