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Old 02-13-2009, 10:45 PM   #1
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Let's talk 4G63 builds

I want to build a 4G63 to a daily driven 450 crank HP engine. Based on the 91-92 Talon turbo 6 bolt engine

What are "must do" and what are the "would be nice to do" There's a thread on BCDSM about what to do to build an engine dynoed 450 AWHP (so 500HP at the crank?) but I'm checking what are overkill bits and what are essential bits.

Discuss. Link up relevant info if you have them.
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Old 02-19-2009, 05:03 PM   #2
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Forged Rods and Pistons. Semi-Built Head - (Ti Valvetrain), Fuel Injectors, good size turbo and good tune. lol
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Old 02-19-2009, 05:13 PM   #3
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don't forget john shep tranny, dsm link , studder box ........
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:51 PM   #4
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one piece driveshaft, log intake manifold, I/H/E tune, nitrous.

^ just how useless is this info if you haven't done it? Exactly.
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:27 PM   #5
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4g63 doesn't need nitrous for 450 crank hp. There are lots of guys breaking into 4 digit hp numbers before nitrous. Water injection is cheaper and safer than N02.

A good tune is mandatory. Water/Meth injection helps. Big injectors and a bigger pump to drive them (255 lph wally is good), Bigger turbo, 3 inch exhaust at least.
DSMlink is a stutter box, but an Ostrich is the same idea. Could always buy a keydiver or burn your own chip.
Clutch will be the first thing to burn out so put an ACT2600 on the list. Stocker is good to 300 hp they say but I dont believe it, especially with AWD.
Transmission will handle the 450hp for a while but being that the DSM transmissions were finicky to start with, I would build it up too while you have it out.

There is a go-fast recipe on dsmtuners, its a good start.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:56 AM   #6
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Does DSMlink get rid of the mass air bullshit? or do I need to go to a full standalone... If thats the case I'm probably gonna run megasquirt as I want to get rid of the mass air BS.

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Old 04-17-2009, 10:25 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berzerker View Post
Does DSMlink get rid of the mass air bullshit? or do I need to go to a full standalone... If thats the case I'm probably gonna run megasquirt as I want to get rid of the mass air BS.

Berz out.
yes and no. dsmlink mimics the mafs . if your car is a 1g you can always just chip your eprom, thorw in a 3bar map sensor and use dsmaps for tuning. if the car is a 2g dsmlink is the way to go if your ecu is eprom if not rather just go aem on that bizzlee.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:01 PM   #8
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What should you do to get a 4g63t engine ready for tuning in the first place. Common problems anyone has run into?
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Old 08-06-2012, 12:47 AM   #9
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common problems running out of money on DSM's
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:00 AM   #10
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ARP head studs and con rod bolts are probably a good idea for that hp range on the 4G63. The stock studs will stretch over time at higher boost levels.

Full bolt ons: Intake,TBE (O2 as well maybe?), Intercooler+piping (I'd go ETS 3.5-4"), cams (GSC S2 or kelford), a td05hra-16G 10.5 hotside (Stock Evo 9 turbo), walbro 255lph and 680cc injectors at minimum should do the trick. These will get you to about the 400whp range....for 400+ look at the FP Green or Red.

Water/Meth is a must because the 94 here is shit. A good Electronic Boost solenoid and 3 or 4 bar map sensor as well

And DSMlink is def the way to go.

Last edited by R. Mutt; 05-10-2013 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:15 AM   #11
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Dynoed at 433 AWHP on RG's dyno. Power production in my case is ignition limited at 24 PSI with stock ignition system and standard plug gap.

If you want to do it right, call up RG and listen to Lowell. Getting them to this level is not hard if you do it right.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:13 AM   #12
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Lowell (one of our techs) makes 400~ & change on his daily driven 1G. The engine internals are stock with the exception of stronger drop in head studs & a re-torque.

450 crank horse is around 330-340 whp on our dyno. We have literally tuned/built over 20 6 bolts that can attain this power with out pulling/building the motor.

Feel free to contact us to further discuss how we can make this happen.

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