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Old 05-15-2009, 05:14 PM   #1
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seized coilovers

hmmm couldnt find my old thread
but anyways ive been trying to lower my car more but no luck
ive tried pb blaster and tapping the lowering collar with a hammer to make sure the luberication goes through
tried using a large steel tube to get torque on my spanner wrench but it end up bending the wrench

any other tips would be helpful
as of right now i spray'd the shit out of the threads and ive been driving around some of crappy vancity roads hoping it will loosing up a bit for me to over power the rust
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Old 05-16-2009, 11:41 AM   #2
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It'd be kinda silly but have you tried lifting the corner and putting a spring compressor on the coils to keep pressure off the collar as you adjust it? If it's really rusted it might help to make sure that the torque from your wrench is the only force working on it.

Edit: Or is that exactly what you want to avoid?
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Old 05-16-2009, 06:02 PM   #3
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the spring is not the problem
the lowering collar is stuck and wont budge
im just going to remove the coilovers off the car to see whats the problem
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Old 05-30-2009, 03:57 PM   #4
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i had the same problem on my s13
just soaked it with wd40 for several days eventually it came off

sucks that they get dirty quite fast
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:40 PM   #5
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Try compressed air as well. Could be rocks stuck in between the threads and collar.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:55 PM   #6
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what i do:

- wire brush to clean off any dirt on the threads
- compressed air to get off any remaining dirt
- WD40 and let it soak good

repeat if needed

if still not, them remove the coilover, put on spring compressor and do all the same as above. remember to compress the top hat to one of the coils on the coilover, and not to like the bottom section of the coilover. this way u remove all the spring weight on the 2 locking nuts.

good luck!
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:16 PM   #7
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thanks for the ideas
i recently gave up on them but will start cleaning/soaking them weekly before my new wheels arrive
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:07 PM   #8
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had the same problem on a set of Tein coilovers for my 240, I ended up taking it to a local shop here in Victoria and they un-seized them for me. $230 though....
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:23 PM   #9
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I had the same problem with my rears. So we put them in a Vice and used a rubber mallet with a screw diver in the collar. Primitive? yes. Best idea? maybe not. Did it work? absolutely.
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:09 PM   #10
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I prepped my coilovers with T-9 when new. Since the install I have made various adjustments only after cleaning the threads with a toothbrush to remove road residue. So far so good.

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Old 06-12-2009, 09:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mspeedP5 View Post
I prepped my coilovers with T-9 when new. Since the install I have made various adjustments only after cleaning the threads with a toothbrush to remove road residue. So far so good.
Interesting, where can you pick some up?
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:57 PM   #12
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Interesting, where can you pick some up?
Any good mountain bike shop should have it or can get it for you. It's a favourite for chain, derailer and gear dressing.
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:53 PM   #13
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i brought my car to school to work on today and the air blower helped alot to remove left over dust and sandy bits out
i got my lock nut unseized now i gotta lower the car more
thanks for the replies
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Old 07-06-2009, 03:05 PM   #14
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I picked up some of the T9 at Lee Valley Tools, FYI
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Old 07-07-2009, 12:48 PM   #15
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Hey there, this is not really going to help you, but might help anyone looking at this thread that is thinking about picking up some coilovers.

KW coilovers have a stainless body with a non-metal collar; this helps to prevent this exact issue. The threads will still get gummed up with dirt, but you don't get the seizing between two metals.
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Old 07-08-2009, 12:20 PM   #16
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the issue isnt so much the rust and corrosion (sp?). but also just plain dirt, dust, oil and whatever the road can throw at it.

there is only so much free play between the threads and the locking nut collar, even if its a non metal collar.

what i end up doing is using a wire brush, air blower, and eventually WD40 to loosen them. then grease up the threads best i can before i adjust.

KW's also dont make coilovers for every application.

not knocking KW's, one of the better coilovers ive ever seen, but some cars are very limited to brands they can use.
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:17 AM   #17
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Another good tip is to clean your coils every second oil change that is what I do on my H&R's never has a issue with them over my 5years of owning them
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Another good tip is to clean your coils every second oil change that is what I do on my H&R's never has a issue with them over my 5years of owning them
what do you do when you clean them?
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:39 PM   #19
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i put anti-seize grease on the threads
i heard some ppl use electrical tape over their lock colllar to avoid some dust particles
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Old 07-09-2009, 04:15 PM   #20
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also, remember, PLEASE, for the love of god, yes they are adjustable, but take the weight off the car first!

ive seen ppl try to wrench on the coilover while the car is still on the ground.

jack up the car, take off the wheel, then adjust!
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Old 07-09-2009, 04:46 PM   #21
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i put anti-seize grease on the threads
i heard some ppl use electrical tape over their lock colllar to avoid some dust particles
Won't gunk build up if you slop on too much anti seize?
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Old 07-09-2009, 05:43 PM   #22
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^^^^i didnt apply that much and it could be easily wiped off
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:39 PM   #23
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everyone need one of these !!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWP15-2Ke4I
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Old 07-19-2009, 09:34 AM   #24
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tourch the lowering collar NOT TO LONG THOUGH dont want to boil the fluid. it will work
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Old 07-23-2009, 01:51 AM   #25
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Your torque wrench reading will be off if you put on anti seize compound.

Go find a ultrasonic tank, it will get most of the fine stuff off. Then let sit in penetrating fluid. (not in the sun because it might light up).

Better maintenance is the key.
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