Maintenance, Engine & Driveline Tech This forum is brought to you by The Speed Syndicate (TSS) in Burnaby.
Discussion of maintaining your engine, transmission, differentails, rear ends, and mods associated with "driveline" parts..
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12-10-2009, 04:50 PM
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#1 | | My homepage has been set to RS
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| Cooling issues, driving me nuts..
My car start over heating last week. Its fine when the engine is cold but after about 30mins it over heats and the coolant boils over.
I did a coolant flush and the old coolant was rusty and full of debris.
I think either the radiator is clogged or the thermostat is fucked.
Also, is the radiator fan suppose to be on at all times when the engine is hot?
Its not spinning when it overheats. I touched the radiator fins and its cold, normal?
How do I tell if its the rad or the thermostat or maybe something els?
Dont want to me replacing parts if theres nothing wrong with them.  | 
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12-10-2009, 05:12 PM
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#2 | | My homepage has been set to RS
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I'd start with the radiator fan issue first.
It could be that the fan is broken or wiring issue or just the fuse (check the fuse first, would probably be the easiest).
Fix the problem asap, before the overheating kills the gaskets.
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12-10-2009, 10:44 PM
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#3 | | Head Moderator
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I, too, also agree that the fan should be the first thing to fix. I've had my car overheat once after forgetting to plug in the rad fans. After that and you're still overheating, get the radiator flow checked (or simply replace it, depending how much new ones for your car are).
Also, how's your water pump? Is it spinning?
What sort of debris came out of when you did a coolant flush? Are we talking dirt or just rusted flakes of metal? Do you have any custom bits in your coolant system (ie: t-fitting for an aftermarket mechanical water temp sensor, etc)? If so, are they copper or iron? As well, when putting in water/coolant, do you use water from the hose or actual bottled water specifically labelled for cooling systems?
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12-11-2009, 12:38 AM
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#4 | | Unofficial Tin Foil Hat Specialist.
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Feel the radiator hoses. Tell us the temperature of the top and bottom hoses. (cold/warm/hot)
Check the coolant temperature sensor too. If it's faulty, it will give faulty readings to the fan. Btw what car is it?
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12-11-2009, 03:40 AM
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#5 | | 2x Variable Nockenwellen Steuerung
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Radiator fan is based on the sensors on the cooling system. I won't fix it unless the cooling system is fixed and performing. No point fixing the radiator fan, then find out the culprit is due to a clogged engine cooling channels.
Since you mention there are significant amount of rust, you would need to do a lot of cleaning anyways.
I suggest you:
1. Do a cooling pressure test especially on the radiator.
2. Flush the cooling system with just water, (car heater on high), open the engine coolant plug, let the water just flush out... I would tighten and loosen the engine block plug to build up water pressure once a while to clear debris.
2. Disassemble the front clip for easy access
3. Replace water pump, thermostat and belts. Make sure you have everything before hand like gaskets.
4. Flush out the radiator (replace if it fails the pressure test or the the fins are overly bent).
5. Refill with OE fluid.
6. Once your cooling system is fine, replace your fan sensors.. then try your fan again.
Useful tools: Fin comb for radiator, automotive grade screw clamps (don't use ones from HD or princess auto etc, use ones from dealership, because they are smooth inside and won't cut into the pipes).
Since Step 2 your car is on, I would suggest you do it when your car is on ramps.. or on a lift.
Last edited by godwin; 12-11-2009 at 03:46 AM.
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12-11-2009, 11:23 AM
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#6 | | I contribute to threads in the offtopic forum
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I agree with godwin the fan isnt your issue. your issue is poor coolant circulation due to some sort of blockage either debris or thermostat or a failed waterpump. that is why your rad feels cold but your engine is overheating.
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12-11-2009, 08:50 PM
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#7 | | My homepage has been set to RS
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took it to the shop today.
Guy said the rad is clogged.
Both rad hose was hot, so its not the thermostate
The old coolant was pretty nasty, grainy (rusty and bits of plastic film like stuff). I don't think its been changed in the past 17 years.
Its a 91 Soarer from japan.
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12-11-2009, 09:18 PM
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#8 | | 2x Variable Nockenwellen Steuerung
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I still think you should get everything replaced in one go.. you don't know where the rust is coming from. Chances you get it unclogged, then something else in the cooling system will fail. You pay more in labour down the road. Quote:
Originally Posted by EmOne  took it to the shop today.
Guy said the rad is clogged.
Both rad hose was hot, so its not the thermostate
The old coolant was pretty nasty, grainy (rusty and bits of plastic film like stuff). I don't think its been changed in the past 17 years.
Its a 91 Soarer from japan. | | |
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12-14-2009, 01:51 PM
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#9 | | RS Licensed Vendor
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| Quote:
Originally Posted by EmOne took it to the shop today.
Guy said the rad is clogged.
Both rad hose was hot, so its not the thermostate
The old coolant was pretty nasty, grainy (rusty and bits of plastic film like stuff). I don't think its been changed in the past 17 years.
Its a 91 Soarer from japan. | If you don't have a mechanic, give us a shot. Akira has tons of experience with the 1JZGTE
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12-14-2009, 08:41 PM
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#10 | | OWNER/C.F.O./MONEYMAN
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why didnt u get the fluids all changed when u got the car?
mine isnt a jdm import, but i changed every fluid i could.
- oil change
- coolant change
- tranny fluid change
- power steering fluid change
- brake fluid change
- diff fluid change
- even the washer fluid, who knows how long the car sat or even what stuff is in there!
on top of that, brakes, timing belt, any belts in fact!
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