REVscene - Vancouver Automotive Forum

Preemo · 12-17-2009, 07:54 PM

So, a few things started to happen and then all of a sudden all the problems started to snowball. My intentions are to find out as much information and reasons why the following are occurring so when I bring it to a mechanic (or if I can fix some of the problems myself) I don't sound like a retard and he/she don't take advantage of me.

1. The car will be running and then when I turn it on and off again (anywhere within 30 seconds to 5 minutes), the car will not turn. If I wait 2 minutes the car will turn no problem. If I wait 5 minutes or more, the car will run everytime. This doesn't happen all the time just sometimes. When I try to turn the car on immediately from turning it off, the car will seem to be choking like it's not getting gas??

2. The ABS and parking brake light came on. The parking brake is off and the ABS comes on within 1 minute of driving it.

3. And just today, when I was driving the car, it died in the middle of the road. I stopped the car to a complete halt and turned the ignition back on and was on my merry way. What can cause this?!

godwin · 12-18-2009, 01:48 AM

1 + 3 fuel filter, or fuel pump... make sure you are getting a spark.. but fuel is what I would suspect.

2. You need new ABS sensor or might be the whole actuator assembly.

LiquidTurbo · 12-18-2009, 03:04 AM

How many kilometres is on your car currently?

YK86 · 12-18-2009, 10:32 AM

1 might be the main relay as well (although it usually isn't so consistent on when it will work).

2 Next time the light comes on, leave the car running and open the trunk and on the passenger side trunk trim/lining, there should be a rubber cap that you can take off. Underneath is a led lamp that blinks when a code is triggered. Post up what you count. There should be a pause and the blinking will start again. Long blink is 10, short blink is 1. So ______ ______ __ would be code 21.

3 Might be the ignition switch.

Another possibility is 1+3 are related and it may be your ignitor/coil that's dying.

SumAznGuy · 12-18-2009, 11:45 AM

#2. Does the brake light turn off at any point when you are driving? When was the last time you had your brakes serviced? Have you checked the brake fluid to see if it is low?

smoothie. · 12-18-2009, 12:08 PM

1) main relay.

older hondas all have this issue.

i solve mine by smacking the dash when it doesnt start, and it works everytime.

while cranking smack the area between the door and dash, (have door open)/

godwin · 12-19-2009, 06:48 AM

If it is a main relay issue, just take the relay out and resolder the cold joint.. very simple to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smoothie.

1) main relay.

older hondas all have this issue.

i solve mine by smacking the dash when it doesnt start, and it works everytime.

while cranking smack the area between the door and dash, (have door open)/

Preemo · 12-19-2009, 10:07 AM

Thank you for the replies guys.

Last night I had a feeling that I do the basic maintenance first since acquiring it recently. I just inherited the car actually with 250K on it.

This morning I filled up the brake fluid with DOT3 goodness and the ABS and e-brake light went off. The fluid was well below the Max line. Easy fix. Noob on my part.

As far as the car not turning after immediately turning it off, I am still not sure. I suspect the fuel filter/fuel pump. Because even when I drive it, the car will lose RPM's and stutter at times. I would have to let off the gas completely and gas again.

Say that the fuel filter and or fuel pump needs to be replaced. What costs can I expect? I am unsure where these two parts are and am unsure if it is easy to get to or a bitch in the ass to replace.

Thanks for the help guys. Appreciate it!

SumAznGuy · 12-19-2009, 10:28 AM

I feel hurt that I didn't get a thanks.

Do the basic things first. Replace the fuel filter and spark plugs. Cap and rotor on the dizzy and check the timing. New air filter and an oil change.

Once all these are done, see how the car drives. The stuttering and surging might have been caused by poor maintenance.

Honestly, I don't think it is a fuel pump issue, but changing it won't hurt as the car is 15 years old and you don't want to get stranded with a non-working fuel pump.

Puck Luck · 12-19-2009, 11:05 AM

fuel filter is mounted way below the master cylinder. Or just above the subframe where the steering rack is mounted. It is a pain in the ass to get to. You will need a crow's foot, flare nut 14mm and a 19mm crows and long extensions to crack the fuel line loose from the filter. This will have to be done from under the car. The top half of the filter can be undone from above.
Fuel pump is in the tank. I can't remember if there's a access hole in the trunk or under the rear seat cushions. If not, then the fuel tank has to be removed. In all my years there, I may have only replaced 1 or 2 fuel pumps on this generation of accord. I dont think these pumps are a common problem, but at this age and milage, anything is possible.

fliptuner · 12-19-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puck Luck

You will need a crow's foot, flare nut 14mm and a 19mm crows and long extensions to crack the fuel line loose from the filter.

If you try to diy the fuel filter, heed this advice - there's no way around it. Also make sure you have something under the car to catch the spilled fuel.

SumAznGuy · 12-20-2009, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliptuner

If you try to diy the fuel filter, heed this advice - there's no way around it. Also make sure you have something under the car to catch the spilled fuel.

Pretty sure this works on honda's too, but on my Sentra, I pulled the fuse on the fuel pump and let the car idle till it ran out of fuel and the motor stalled. By doing this, you will limit the amount of fuel in the filter/lines which means reduced spillage.